Thank you very much! I'm glad you enjoy them :)

Haha there's a couple of 10 point words in there.. thanks!

Here here I totally agree. Great vid. I will be doing the same with mine. Thanks. 🤪🤪

Thanks so much! It would have been even faster if I didn't waste time on those guide pins haha.

I too was wondering why he was making this in the first place.

My lathe won’t allow me to put the lead screw in neutral.

Ray Falcone thanks so much! I'm glad to hear it

Thanks! Feel free to share them with anyone you think might be interested :)

At some point I'm going to build a belt sander

Haha no offense taking what so ever. Having to deal with all these issues is not for everyone ( I know I didn't want to when I realized how bad it was )

Haha I have thought about it quite a bit - and soon I will be starting a Patreon account for anyone interested in helping me... and so I can also give away some of the cool stuff I make ;)

Thanks!

True, do it in the drill press and use a spring loaded tap follower.

Yeah that was quite a bit huh... it's usually not so bad when cutting softer metal. Also I think I let it get pretty dull and have gotten into the habit of sharpening it before using it with a lot better results.

Thanks! I wish I had a "real" machine shop but I'm making do. And thanks - that drill is pretty weak so it just stalls out if it gets jammed... but that's not a good excuse to not properly clamp everything either.

Not a bad thing to do and is much better than nothing, but you still have a tiny bit of slop in there. That, and I find it very difficult to get the gear lever into the position where the screw stops turning. I haven't made a lock yet for mine but I think I will copy this design. There are better ones but most of them seem to require milling, which I cannot do.

Hey! I thought I would have to replace the grub screws with set screws (and I probably will at some point) so the heads don't interfere but to my surprise it hasn't kept me from doing anything yet either from hitting the screws on the cross slide or the handle hitting the bottom of the compound slide. Thanks for watching!

I agree there will be limited movement of the crosslide as the handle will contact the Gib grub screws, is there a modification you carried out to solve this clash. Well presented video.

That's a really good point! Thanks

You're correct when the compound slide is at 0* but if it is rotated for taper cuts, it would have hit the cap - this way I can have it locked for taper cuts as well. I was thinking that I'd need to replace the tightening cap screws with set screws (and I probably will anyway) but the range of motion is likely good enough for most situations I've run into so far.

Haha seriously... if it even lasts two years before everything is replaced.

TimNummy - I think you should name this lathe - "the ship of Theseus"

I thought the Same - they are unnecessary!

They prevent the plate from rotating enough to jam the plate.

It won't end up rusting on me is a big bonus... other than that, I just thought it would be neat. Thanks for watching!

@@TimNummy To state what should be well known, if your keeping the lathe properly lubricated there should be enough spare oil around that nothing should ever start to rust. It took me a very long time at this hobby before I finally learned enough to start thinking logically. For a decorative object the exact material it's made from has little meaning. For anything mechanical that's designed to perform a given task then material choices become ultra important. From a mechanical engineering perspective those material choices will all have a range of + or - natural characteristics verses the exact requirements needed for the part to function as well as possible. And all mechanical design is a series of compromises since there's no such thing as a perfect material that's been invented yet. Brass is used in some assembly's as a bearing material for rotating shafts since it has a low coefficient of friction. And it's that low coefficient of friction for brass that makes it one of the poorer choices of material for locking a lathe carriage down to the ways. Yes it will work if your handle is tightened to create enough friction to resist the carriage being moved by the cutting forces when making facing cuts. It's also not very strong, rigid or durable when compared to even mild steel. And a high degree of rigidity is exactly what that part needs. I can guarantee that brass plate is slightly bending as you tighten that locking handle. Once that happens your further reducing your locking force or friction since that plate is then only gripping on the outside edges of the lathes bottom way surfaces. So as that plate bends your further reducing it's surface contact area which drastically lowers the frictional resistance your needing. In a nut shell properly designing and then machining your own parts is a bit more complex than the average person with a home shop thinks. And choosing the best material by doing some basic research into it's physical characteristics against what the part is required to do isn't really optional. When I started at this the internet wasn't even invented yet, any information I needed I had to find and then buy specific books about whatever I wanted to know. Today it's dead easy to find more free online engineering & material data than you'll ever need.

Not at all! Probably would have done the same had I known - but it looks a little more pricey than even $800 and for me, not having ever used a lathe before, would have had a hard time making such a big investment. But now I've learned so much that I'm almost anxious to be able to have the space to get something bigger and much better built. So in that sense, I got my money's worth on the education from this lathe. Thanks for watching!