Thanks .

Ît's Morse taper (not Morris)

@@01thomasss LOL …. Damn autocorrect 😂🤣

@@joell439 Cheers Joel . Stephen . A. Morse in the mid 1800's !

I agree with you about Harold there Mate . Thanks for looking in !

Thanks Paul .

Thanks Don .

Thanks Ted .

Cheers .

Thanks . Yes it has been a good change from the rain , even got a bit done on the new shop . Cheers .

Gary 👍

The right way is the way that gets a good result.

Hi Gary . I only have that one roughing reamer , so not sure how the finish would have come out if i had used it , esp not having the finish reamer to back it up . Cheers .

@@swanvalleymachineshop Max if you lived closer I have a brand new MT2 you could barrow….

@@TheAyrCaveShop I might have to make one one day , from a knackered 3/4 reamer !

Thanks John .

Lol ! Cheers .

Thanks Russell . Cheers .

Thanks Mate .

Thanks Randy . Cheers .

Cheers Greg .

G'day Matty, I seem to be following you aroung youtube tonight mate 👍

Cheers Matty .

Thanks .

Thanks .

Cheers .

Clock up on the chuck . You still have to do the same check as one of my chucks has a .001'' taper when i do it .

Thanks Rob . That was your old Starrett steel rule !

@@swanvalleymachineshop I'm glad it found a good home.

You will need that reamer working with pre hard . Cheers .

Thanks . Yes the small ones can go pear shaped very easy . Cheers .

All good over here Mate . Cheers .

Thanks .

Thanks John .

Thanks .

If by bored out too big means the taper bottoms before the taper, shorten the end of the quill a bit, then the tsper can seat. In most cases the loss of length will not be noticed.

Like Chris mentioned , the loss of length is usually no big deal , unless you have a slotted quill to take a drive / ejection tang .You might get away with drilling the minor dia deeper .

Will check that out. Thanks.

@@patrickbeaumier8616 if you were planning on making a new one anyway, you have nothing to lose by trying.

Just the change gears clanging ! I have just tried motorcycle chain lube on them to see if it makes any difference .

Cheers Robbie . Yes it clicked over last night !

@@swanvalleymachineshop Cheers mate well done

Finally made it there Tom . Cheers .

Thanks Tony . Time soon for a DRO for that machine !

Hi Chris . They have thrust in the other direction as well when ejecting the tool . I looked at the quill in my Southbend & that is cut straight into the steel . My other lathe has a bronze nut . Either way will work well . No taps for this one , LH BSW ! Cheers .

@@swanvalleymachineshop is this one self ejecting, a lot of wood lathes dont have that feature as the tailstock is designed to have an auger go through it for long hole boring.

@@chrisstephens6673 Do they , i have not had much to do with wood lathes . The customer supplied a revolving centre that had a hole through it , that would have damaged the end of the solid male threaded section when ejecting . I just made up a blanking button to rectify that . Do they just tap a rod through the hollow type you mention to remove the tool ?

@@swanvalleymachineshop in a lot of cases yes.i used to have a bar with a wooden knob on the other end to knock out the rotating centre. You can get get rotating centres that have a hole all the way through and different cones and ring centres to hold the wood.

They did not have stock of MT 3 at the time . They do an Australian made one , the same price as a Royal .

@@swanvalleymachineshop yeah massively priced! better to make your own

@@troyam6607 Future project !

Thanks . Yes the manual machines do not have the RPM ' s . If you could turn on a G96 or G97 type of code it would be great . I was looking at a Harrison Alpha , that would suit me . A bit like a manual / cnc . Still has a lot of manual functions like tool changing , tailstock etc .

Hi Ian, where abouts are you, I have some nice Austrian pre hardened steel that turns nice on my little 1985 Taiwanese 200 x 450mm lathe. I too am a home hobbyist. Cheers Peter

@@petermurphy3354 Hi Peter, I'm in Sydney Australia and that is why i asked Max about the steel types as he is also in Australia and he knows the local designation for the material. Your machine is a good unit , far better than Chinese made .

Hi Ian . It all depends on what you are mostly doing . 12L14 , easy to turn with a good finish but non weldable , M1020 if you need to weld it & 4140 is good enough for tool holders and higher strength parts etc & it can be hardened to an extent with basic methods . Most of what i use is mostly unknown from the scrap bin . Critical & paying jobs i use new steel that i know what it is . Best practice also is to letter stamp the end of the stock for I.D purposes . Interlloy has a good site for steel types & Voestalpine is where i usually get my new steel from . Cheers .

@@ianbertenshaw4350 Hi Ian, I am in Melbourne, but postage on steel can be a bit pricey. The Austrian steel I have is from Voestalpine. I purchased it from an injection mould & punch maker that was retiring. M245 turns easily with a very nice finish on a small lathe. Cheers Peter

@@swanvalleymachineshop Thanks Max! I think we have all been a victim of the scrap bin at one time or another ! A mate at work kept bringing me some lengths of steel round bar he was getting out of the scrap bin at some place , dunno what it is but it machine like lead , is as weak as piss and getting any sort of finish on it is near impossible. I had a look at the places you mentioned and they have some great reference material on those websites. I have a pile of 4140 but need some stuff that is smaller than 50 mm dia for making spacers and bits for model steam engines so I think 1020 will do fine .

No graduations , as it's for a wood lathe . Maybe one way to do them easy , bear in mind i have never seen or tried it yet would be to off set the quill in the 4 jaw & cut the graduations in that way . The tool should just contact a small area that way . Food for thought ! Cheers .

Cheers Doug .

Not sure of the number , i will have a look . Google Ifanger & look at the Trade Tools Shop New Zealand & they have all of the info . Cheers .