The thing I love about metalwork most is the glue dries so quickly!

Jer, very nice!. I have one safety concern. Wire colors are coded on purpose. Please wrap the green wire from the switch with some red electrical tape or heat shrink to indicate that it is a hot wire. Green should never be used for anything except for grounding. The white wire should be wrapped with black for the same reason.

"...so that you can see my design process." Yep, always my favourite part of these videos! The thought and attention to detail you put into this stuff is always a joy to watch.

Great work! Your videos are so well structured and thought out. So glad you are back on KZfaq!

Please please please continue making these amazingly well thought out tools and videos. You're one of the smartest out there.

The easy access to the power switch is a very good idea for convenience and safety. The control scheme, with two switches, one normally open and one normally closed is a good basic control idea. I remember doing the same to control a turntable in a small broadcast booth in 1969 or 1970. The biggest criticism I can offer is that you should be consistent with wire color codes. Using the green (normally a ground) as your common wire to the switches is generally a no-no - but if you wrapped some black electrical tape around a short portion of it, you'd be indicating it is not a ground wire. Same thing when using a white wire for hot or a black wire for neutral. You'd use white tape in that last situation. Your videos are always entertaining, you present your topics very well, and I very much enjoy watching them. Thanks, Jer!

I can see a whole lot of this build is to allow for oil to flow into the pan. Cables are being routed over the table to avoid holes in the pan. This is a 9" lathe built around 1950, which doesn’t hit speeds you’d require coolant or make so many chips you’d have tons of oil. But it’s beautiful and who cares!

I'm in awe of your creativity, troubleshooting, craftsmanship and precision. Amazing work!

A few thoughts, it would be a lot safer if the contactor coil was 12, or 24 volts, then you wouldn't have the potential for a short in the micro switch wiring causing a fire, as well, remove the risk of a hot wire energizing the metal push bar ! Other option, you can add a ground jumper from push car to lathe base pan (don't rely on pivot bolts for ground, you'll be lubricating them, an oil isn't a good conductor;) 3D print a plastic cover, and add fuses for power legs going to micro switches. Two last items Add a ground wire to switched outlet, the two screws holding it in are not a code approved grounding method And use a star washer under head bolt that's holding contactor to box, and a nylock nut, so you're guaranteed a solid ground years from now

it's nice to see you putting stuff out on a regular basis again. hope everything is going well for you buddy.

The alignment hole in the 3D printed box is brilliant.

I never do any of the electrical stuff cuz I don't want to fry my brain but I love watching this video just the same

Your problem solving skills and ingenuity is breath taking dude, keep up the good work.

I love your videos Jer. Because you are not an electrician, here is an electrical tip for your consideration. Placing the ground wire on the contactor nut / bolt is not recommended, as it could be loosened over time, or during fault-finding etc. Better to relocate it to a unique place. A stud is always the preferred fixing for earthing purposes. This simple modification could be carried out when you modify the contactor enclosure for reversing the motor or when you modify it for variable speed etc in the future. I already see comments about the choice of wire colours, those issues can also be easily addressed in the future updates with coloured sleeves or tape. You know what these wires are today, but in decades you or the next owner will find it much safer and much easier to conduct fault-finding with the correct colour coding on wiring. Keep up the great content Jer.

Nice project! And nice south bend. My grandpa left me the exact one when he past. I bought your 2x72” grinder plans. That project turned out perfect! An brings a whole new level of quality to other projects now thanks again!

Like the emergency stop feature and the NVR feature. I'd personally be tempted to add a lock-off switch (even just an SPST switch in the 'Stop' line) as I can see if being possible to knock it on as you're leaning over it. It shouldn't but all that's got to happen is your belt catches on the switch and it could be pulled - especially with such a short throw. Paranoid? Perhaps, but cheap insurance. Interesting way of doing it though; I'd never have thought microswitches for that problem...and that's not a criticism in case it comes across that way!

Would you consider adding a secondary start-switch in series with the microswitch at 12:18 so that you cannot inadvertently switch-on the lathe (say - if your apron gets caught on the switch-rail, or if you have pesky visitors). The secondary (momentary) switch would be placed far away from the rail, of course, and switching on would become a two-handed affair.

Great solution. This type of safety switch should be common more tools. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎

Maybe you already did it when I wasn't looking. But the metal lid on the box containing the micro switches needs to be grounded, or swapped for a non-conductive material. Love your work. 🙂

This WAS helpful. This summer is when I get the South Bend hooked up and running! Thanks, Jer!

Your “problem solving skills” are outstanding, well done!

Ur ability to think ahead and prototype while fabricating was satisfying to watch. Order of operations can be a cruel mistress so great job. Thats a sub from me

I really like the old lathe. Very classy. ✌

Clicked like before watching. Was not disappointed.

I love this. Great idea. If one wanted some addition safety in terms of the chuck key, you could use some sort of “key” based switch to cut power and attach that to the Chuck key. Then to use the chuck key you have to remove the power key, hence cutting power and preventing any restart (as the micro switches would be disabled) and vice versa.

I'm LOVING that you are back, Jer! Thanks for the videos!

New project idea. A Jer Schmidt designed and built metal brake. AAA quality!!

Might I recommend installing a locking stop station in series with your NC (stop) microswitch and placing it in a visible location. I'm only worried about accidental starting of the motor. Say you're leaning over the lathe and your belt gets caught on the paddle, you could easily start the machine and put yourself in harms way. A locking stop station would allow you to have a way to lock out the motor quickly without unplugging the unit. It would also allow for a layperson to stop the machine in an emergency without needing to be taught where the stop mechanism is.

Now it just needs a bold label etched into it. Nice work.

I always love seeing the clever tricks you come up with. The L shaped rod that fit into the hole in the 3D printed switch housing to keep it centered during welding was genius. This makes me want to reconsider adding a similar switch to actuate the barrel switch I have on my 9" south bend...

Well done lad! Very nice design and layout!!

Very nice design. And it works perfectly!

What a great idea. I am going to do this with my lathe. Thanks for dumbing it down enough that even I could work it out 😁

Brilliant! Beautiful work!

as a machinist, i can not stress it enough you need to add guards over the belts!!! you will become ground beef!! But looks great

Rarely do I see someone else's project of which I wouldn't change a single detail. 👌

Truly a unique approach to problem solving and fabricating.

Watching you work is like music for my eyes! ❤

Your ideas, build quality and solutions are on such a high level, I sometimes ask myself how you are going to top that in the next Video and you do! Again and again! Your Channel is easily one of the Best in that Genre!

AYO!!!! was bored, now I got somethin worth watching 😁

Another great video. The power switch bar is a well thought out and engineered piece of work. Thanks for the video

The only thing I'd change is some proper cord grip/strain relief. And circuit protection! You're probably going to be plugging that into a 20 amp outlet. If something goes wrong, it will melt, smoke and catch fire long before the breaker trips.

matthias aint got nothing on you. And let me tell you thats as good a compliment as I can give a youtuber.

Up to your usual high standards, Jer. Terrific video... I always learn something from you.

Very nice Jer as always .... Thank You Kindly for sharing peace

Glad to see you back :) Following you for a long time, love your stuff

Legend thanks Jer. It's a beautiful switch

I really hope you get into more metal projects!!

Your problem solving and solutioning skills are amazing. Well done!!

Love the planning and the detail. It’s kinda like a chess game. You have to think several moves ahead on manufacturing and assembly or you’ll find yourself in a pickle….

Good video! I'm not an electrician either. I am an electrical engineer but mostly I do electronics not electrician type stuff. I think the only violations were related to using green insulation wire for something other than ground, and using white for something other than neutral. Overall I feel like it was a pretty good installation. Way better than most DIYers. Maybe some of the wire termination and combining schemes are not technically allowed either (I'm not sure).

Love it! Seems super duper safe, robust and functional! Thanks for sharing! :)

I think it’s pretty cool you’ve gone the Tom Scott route an wear the same clothes for every video now. Makes it feel like a continuous process 😄

Nice design and execution, thanks for the great video.

Looks like that chuck is threaded onto the spindle. If that is the case reverse is of limited use, can even lead to some excitement.

Nice job. No left thread chasing for you:-0)

Really nice work Jer! There are a lot of useful comments about controls and wiring below so I won't add anything to them, Here's a couple of things that might help with future wiring, I have found Ratcheting Wire Crimpers work very well and look out for 'piggyback spade connectors' . Thanks for posting all your videos they make me want to do better

This is clever. Thanks for sharing.

Love it ,well thought out .

Interesting ... nice detail work and great explanations! It does seem that if you are, say, changing tools or in the process of mounting a workpiece in the chuck, and reach down into a drawer to grab a wrench or chuck key or shim, that you run the risk of clipping the horizontal switch on the upstroke from the drawer, and accidentally powering things up in an unsafe configuration. Just imagining; you will have a better feel for how it will work in practice. Cheers, John

You are amazing. Good job. Well done.

Excellent! Thank you

Nice work, good concept! Although starwashers on your ground terminals would be nice

Al's Machinery... looks factory

Dang Jer i thought this switch video was going be kinda dull but man your ability to get all this working and be so clean is amazing. Great Job and another great video -- and you said you aren't an electrician

Awesome work jer and practical too. Great video buddy 👍🏽 👏 👌

You have such a brilliant mind Jer!

Beautiful machine brother. I have the same exact Lathe. I have the Furnas forard and reverse switch though. Lol and of course the reverse doesn't work

I'm impressed with your design skills

Great work Jer! Love electromechanical projects! I'd love more details on that lathe, from the few frames I saw it appears to have an "Atlas Machinery Canada" plate on it. That's a very well known machinery shop here in Toronto. Would love a walk through of that beast!

Great video - and I know how a contacter works thx to technology connections. Cool project as always.

Great looking and working setup Jer, thanks for sharing it with us!

Super nice lathe and build. Thanks for sharing.

Excellent as usual.

Another great video my friend. Everything you create is impressive and inspirational as hell!

Hey Jer, stunning video as always. your switch is very convinient to use. S+thanks for sharing 🥳

Great build! I agree with the wire colors. What I believe to be more dangerous than the wrong color is that paint is an insulator and your ground bolt through the metal enclosure was touching mostly paint and you are now hoping for the 1/4 of a thread or so to make contact with the case. There are provisions in the National Electrical Code to allow for such connections and it tells you in there to grind or sand of any paint. Should be an easy fix and really make the difference in case of a line-to-case fault.

Hiya Jer, Great video; thank you so much for perfectly demonstrating your build. I was an electrician in the UK for many years, and I have a few minor points. As we use 230v rather than 120v, they may not equate. The 1st point is non-voltage related. The crimp pliers you use, I used the same for many trouble-free years, but then the ratchet style was designed. These always apply the correct pressure to your crimp with much less hand pressure making for a better joint. I tried a pull-apart test using both pliers and the ratchet type won very easily. Worth noting. Where you have cut down the conductors to fit two wires into one connector? I would have used a yellow insulated crimp connector, which allows for a greater conductor size. Even with mA, it is worth developing correct habits. I can still hear my instructor telling us that over and over during my five-year apprenticeship. The 2nd point, which may be voltage related, is we were never allowed to have bare contacts against flammable materials, as in your contactor and the MDF. Something like mica had to be sandwiched between the two. This was made compulsory in the 80s. Even with the air gap you have, there is nothing non-inflammable between the two. The mechanical setup was very impressive; I can see where your head is at. Stay safe, Steve...

Beautifully done!

Beautiful set up . We'll done .

A good idea and better implementation. Good to see your content again.

I always enjoy seeing what you are up to. Always interesting and well done.

After having a clothes meets lead screw experience, I wired in a N.O. foot switch into my lathe and drill press and rigged the switches with latching relay so I can't start it without having my foot on the switch, and I can't just start it by stepping on the switch. Very mild inconvenience for big improvement in safety.

Thanks for another great video Jer! I really like it when you share your thought process with us. Looking forward to your next video. Cheers!

Great video and project!

Brilliant. You mentioned maybe using a VFD in the future, I've been wanting to put one on my drill press for a while so I don't have to move belts, but I'm not well versed in electronics! Would you ever consider a video walking through that whole process?

It is always a good idea to stick cables color code. Avoid confusion even for yourself in two years.

Very satisfying!

Designed at Stand-for university. Good vibes, don't damp them.

Very nice work!

Absolute stunning! thank you

Great job as usual. Well thought out 👍

Spot on 👍🏻 Thank you Jer.

Well done Jer. Keep kicking ass!

Great job. Thanks for the videl keep on keeping on.

Very inventive, well done Jer.

Freakin awesome. Love the way this works.

Super clean

FWIW the stock control arm reverse switch I have on SB 10 is quite convenient.

Great job!