Welcome :)

Most welcome, Tom.

Thx for the note :)

Welcome. If you have questions, just let me know.

In his book, he talks about setting it on the same pallet or a couple miles away whatever your choices it’s not a big deal really I never move mine other than a foot or two away on the same pallet or somewhere else in the yard for that matter, it’s not been a factor for many years.

@@TheBeeFarm John thank you. I am looking forward to using this method to raise and keep my bees alive. Up until now it's been move forward fall back no matter what I did. I seemed never to be able to get ahead.

If you have live drones, at least 6 frames of brood and good weather: good time to do artificial swarms.

@natserog ― Some differences off the top of my head would be: (1) A Walk Away (WA) essentially is splitting colony in half and letting the queenless box raise a queen whereas OTS is doing an artificial swarm with minimum requirements for the new queenless split to grow/thrive (~2 frames of brood, shake or two of bees, empty comb, frame of honey/pollen). So, you're letting the bulk of the bees raise the cells in the queenless/notched box. Quality queens require high density of bees and you're not sacrificing or gambling with that requirement with OTS, unlike a WA. (2) With OTS as described by Disselkoen, you are notching on multiple frames to encourage queen cells on multiple frames a week later which gives you the resources thus to make multiple splits at that point. Folks doing a WA may find all their queen cells on one frame. (3) I get quality queens nearly every time I do OTS "properly" and I don't think the same can be said of WA's reliably, especially for the novice, and thus the negative feelings by some about the general idea and also about OTS due to misunderstanding.

It'll work. Some do this.

Yes, that’s not a problem. :)

Jonathan Chitwood i notch the same 36 hour or less larvae i would if grafting. bees, if given choice, will choose the right aged larvae. have been very succesful raising queens and selling nucs annually.

​@@TheBeeFarm all of the research in the last decade indicates 12-24hrs is the sweet spot for best possible queen..... what the OTS approach ignores is controlling for age at your culling inspection. In the video, this happens on day 10. Your ideal larvae and the less desirable larvae would all be capped at this point. I would put to you; that you would have even better outcomes moving up your cull by one day. And culling capped and nearly capped cells on that day. Leaving the to be capped in the next 24hrs cells as your production queens. Grab a calendar and check the math. Not blowing out your candle, just trying to make it brighter.

Jonathan Chitwood okay i will think on it and give it a try. always something to learn. thx for taking time to share. any suggested papers/books?

@@TheBeeFarm Dr. Spivak's Successful Queen Rearing: Short Course is good. And its the one you won't get at the library. I'd check out the other standards at the library, Queen Rearing Essentials, Queen Rearing Simplified etc. And I think larvae age is the most significant change in knowledge since some of the old standards in queen rearing were written.But the key take away items are, understanding the queen calendar, controlling for correctly aged larvae, lots of nurse bees, good nutrition and quenlessness. Once one grasps those concepts firmly they can do any number of different procedures to produce superior quality queens. You can go out and search the Journal of Apicultural Science for corroboration that 12-24hrs old larvae make better queens. There are any number of articles in there.