Keep at it Beatrice! Thanks for watching!

Hahahaha!!! He is having too much fun editing the videos....and as it turns out, in the bathroom, 😂

FREDDIE!!! Great to hear from you. Yes, Jim is innovative and if you watched until the end, he showed his sense of humor too, haha. Hope you are having fun in. your studio!

Hi Rachael! You are too kind. Thanks for watching!!!

@@annruel1982 It's not Rachel ;)

@@r.v.7885 Oh,,,,sorry about that. I have a friend who is an R.V. and I just assumed. ....so I really am impressed then :-). Thanks R!!!

@@annruel1982 O.k., so maybe I have a wish then. I ordered 25kg of Limoges porcelain. Can you make a video about what is different about working with porcelain. You gave a very detailed answer to a comment last week but a video would be really nice as well.

@@r.v.7885 Oh Wow, R. I have not tried Limoges porcelain. You will be the expert on that porcelain ..... thanks for the video idea. I will have to give that one a good think. It would be a different format from the experiments we have been doing. Have a great day.

Hey Miss Linnea Lark Students! This is Jim (Sometimes known as Jerry Benderstiff, Former Director of Research at Little Street Pottery). I am married to Ann, her videographer, editor, and sometimes pottery carver. We enjoy making the videos for our fans and we really appreciate you watching and sharing. We believe art makes the world a better place and hope you continue to find your voice in ceramics. If you have any ideas or topics you would like to see covered, please let us know! Thanks- Jim

@@jimruel2121 YAY! We got our happily ever after ending! Thank you both for the love and care you put into your work and for inspiring us all! :D

P.S. The kids all squealed when I read them your reply, LOL!

Awesome! Thanks for watching Katherine!!

Hahaha! I cracked up too when Jim showed it to me. ....thanks for the kind words and thank you for watching!!! Im glad you liked it.

@@annruel1982 I can’t wait to make a pot with a nice lid!! I’ve been using a flat slab as the lid with a smaller slab in the middle of the lid just big enough to fit in the pot. Does that make sense? The lids become quite heavy though. I have tried making the gallery with a snake instead of the flatter strip and it was really hard but I LOVE how you used the flat piece and not the snake!

@@micheledickey4066 I understand what you are saying about the two slabs. Good idea. Perhaps a thinner slab might take some of the weight down too or you could trim out the middle slab later or something, but give the flat strip a try and see what you think. Lids are so difficult for sure.

Hi Carly. Thanks for the kind words and for the questions. I hear you about the expenses in working with the clay that needs to be fired in a kiln and glazed. It is a commitment for sure. I have to admit, I dont have a lot of experience with air dry clay. Sorry about that. Keep working at that and you can be the expert on that subject and teach others (including me) how to work with it. :-)

Thank you so much Ingrid. Im glad you enjoyed it. Have fun in the studio!

Hahaha!!! Thank You, Karen :-). I figured potters would get it. We potters have our own pottery vocabulary and I tried to tell him that was one of the words in that dictionary,🤣😂🤣😂

Aww..thanks so much Juli!!

Haha. Jim put that in there without me knowing, haha. I had such a good laugh.

Sounds like you are seeking the Holy Grail :) I've tried a bunch in the past and landed on the #365 because it is great for my underglaze painting (my mainstay). I use it in all the vids so its been surprisingly flexible for hand building as well but challenging too because it tends to wilt with too much water. Keep trying the different clays - I'm sure you will find your soul mate!

@@LittleStreetPottery Yes, I am probably never going to find the porcelain that can do it all. I make it into paperclay for most things, so it helps with a lot of things, like warping and cracking in particular..I just don’t have to worry about those, and I don’t have to worry at all about all my parts being the exact same thinness, or slow drying to prevent warping/cracking, I can even force dry it! And parts can be totally different wetness levels, including adding wet to bone dry or bisque! It is fantastic. But it doesn’t make it more plastic, or do anything with the translucency (other than allowing me to do thinner walls than I otherwise would be able to do- you can get walls 1.5 mm thin!). I would probably be happy enough with my current porcelain, if I hadn’t found out that its absorption is ridiculously high and it is supposed to be cone 5/6 up to 9, but at 9 it is only getting to 2.9%, and I don’t have a kiln that goes above cone 8, and I really don’t want to fire at cone 8, I want to fire at cone 6. Which I can for my nonfunctional things, so I am debating getting a new porcelain or (this is a problem with almost all their stonewares and porcelains, their Grolleg cone 10 procelain’s absorption is 4.8% at cone 10!!) firing all functional work in any of my clays from them, which is all my clays except one, at cone 8. The porcelain when I convert it into paperclay slip makes a decent casting slip so far, although I don’t know if I will be able to get quite as translucent as I want. I hear you about waterlogging and underglaze…my current other crusade is for the clear base glazes I’m testing for my home studio to make is finding the holy grail that does a bunch of stuff but also is clear over underglazes without having cloudiness or bubbles over underglaze or terra sig or slip, since I use all three extensively for all my Sgraffito and carving. I hear you about waterlogging. That’s why I do the throwing slip with handbuilding now instead of just throwing, it really *does* make a difference. And just FYI, paperclay would really solve a lot of your problems too with it wilting, although I can understand with your channel maybe not wanting to switch to making that if most of your watchers don’t use it…although I bet you could convert a whole ton into using it! In Western Australia, 1/3 of all pottery clay used is paperclay, so in some parts of the world it is getting really really popular!

Wonderful! Thank you for watching!

Bellos !!! Muchas grácias !!!

Oh good. Thanks for watching Shasa!

Thanks so much Valarie!! I appreciate you watching.

Hi C. Nice to meet you. Yes, wait until the piece is leather hard to attach the flattened coil. In fact, after I attached the coils, I put the lid back in place to make sure I didnt distort the walls. The coil I placed in there was a little on the harder side but I wouldnt call it leather hard. As long as I scored and slipped it well, there was no problem with it sticking and not cracking upon drying.

@@annruel1982 I have tried doing this to a leather hard piece and the clay cracked where I had adhered it. I don’t know if the pot was just too dry? Is it better to do this when the pot is a little more leather soft?

@@micheledickey4066 If the clay cracked, you are right, your clay was just a little too dry and the next time you just want it to be firm enough to hold its shape while you do the attaching...somewhere between a soft leather hard and too dry. You will get it right the next time.

Hi Aubrey. Nice to meet you. As I only use a very soft porcelain, when I score the clay and add just a little water to those scored slivers they quickly turns to a creamy slip just right for attachment. In the video you will see me use a wet brush or even just wet my fingers and go along the top of the scored areas to turn the clay into slip. Now, if my clay is a bit on harder leather hard side when I am trying to construct, I may need to make up a little sloppy porcelain slip for connecting or other things like "spooze", "magic water" etc. You are right about the clay getting waterlogged very quickly if I use too much water. It is a characteristic of my particular clay that I have really had to learn to work around. Thanks for the question and have a great day!

@@annruel1982 Thanks for the reply. I have found any time I need to wipe down the porcelain and other clays I use that if I would usually use water to smooth a surface or correct a mistake I make or something that using throwing slip works much better than water for preventing clays, most especially porcelain from getting waterlogged. It was something I picked up from a teacher who insisted we use throwing slip instead of water for throwing (and it makes *such* a difference there to keep porcelain from getting waterlogged, and other clays when a beginner wheel thrower, but works great for experienced people I know who started it as well! I’m just an evangelist for throwing slip for both throwing and handbuilding and especially sculpture where one may need to keep a rim/top from getting dried out while working on the rest or so forth! Also, I asked below, and can understand you probably haven’t seen it yet, does the Standard 365 become translucent when fired thin? I haven’t seen that many fired pieces with light behind it to tell…and I’m looking for a new porcelain.

@@aubreytauer7308 I can see you are excited that this :-). Awesome!!

Awww...thank you for watching :-)

You are so sweet Kathy. The porcelain I use is a very finicky clay and you need to understand how it likes to be worked with , how much water to use with it, and how it likes to dry, etc. It works well for my underglaze painting as there is no groggy surface, and the "cool" white color of the clay works well with my underglaze color pallett. I am used to it now and probably would have problems working with stoneware. Thanks for reaching out, it is nice to meet you. Have fun in the studio, Kathy

Standard English Porcelain #365 - I have to go to Sanford FL to get mine. Its not easy to find everywhere but a decent porcelain should get similar results. Thanks!

Hi Deb. If you look under the video at the description section...click "SHOW MORE". the link to the templates will be there. It will be a link to the Imgur website where the templates are stored. Have fun.