His mate has one, I seem to remember him saying it wouldn’t make sense for the work he does, his mate does more fine grading work.

That does sound like a good idea, we used something like that for mulching on the golf course, dragging the mulch than stopping at every tree to add fresh mulch in the spring and end of summer. How would you make it work on a job like this? Clear a path for the dozer or on the sides? This job site seems incredibly tricky due to the water, even if you get it down to bare ground that becomes deep mud again with the water table setup

@@chosen1one930 The first couple pulls would be the hardest, after that the muddy grass would act like grease. Pulling would depend on what the bottom was. A crawler dump would be handy as well, but when you only need it for say 3 jobs a year it might not pay for itself very quick.

I was thinking a conveyor might at least cut down on how many times he has to move the mud. A smaller scale one like Parker uses on the show Goldrush would be pretty cool. He used an excavator chassis with an enormous boom.

First time I saw him clear a lot with a felled tree I knew he was a genius.

Chris never uses one of those sludge pumping rigs. I’ve often wondered why, but I figure if he doesn’t like them there must be a good reason.

Takes a special kind of person to keep operating at full steam through monotonous work. Though as the business owner I’d suspect the payday at the end is rather inspiring!

Maybe too many sticks, log and just plain stuff.

@@danl.909 Some dumbass kept dumping mixed crap at the landfill so they quit accepting it because they can't see what's in the tank.

@@danl.909 Those rigs have to have super clean materials or clog’s equipment and pipes quickly our local water co dredging reservoir had floating dredge even silt from bottom has debris had to move processing plant closer to water because of clogging debris in pipe

Chris definitely does a great job on every project. He’s one of the best operators on KZfaq. Dirt Perfect does great work too. Those two are basically the only two heavy equipment operators I watch on a regular basis.

@@davidepool5884 same here

After you spend thousands of hours on a machine you get very good at doing that task and then you can let your mind wander and try to figure ways to make that task easier and/or faster. As a farmer in Florida I spent hundreds of hours each year cleaning drainage ditches. I bought a deep, 5 ft wide cleaning bucket for my JD 510 backhoe. Looks like a bucket that size or larger would make this job go much faster. Time is money.

Most common design thats been around for years and years!!

Towards the end of one lot clearing job he grabbed a felled tree trunk and did the same. Simply genius.

That is not Chris's truck, it is John's.

It will still treat Chris well i'm sure

Right several places along the arms, just set the gate on those and bolt it back up. Could even space it for shims you keep on the truck. Or if there's clearance, flip the gate all the way forward after disconnecting the cables and strap it down.

This haul truck is John's truck. Chris recently bought his haul truck for his company. Chris works with and for his uncle John 3 days a week, running John's company's equipment and the other 3 or 4 days a week Chris works for himself and uses his own equipment.

I think he has used logs in the past hasn't he ?

It is at what cost… money is normally the controlling issue.

Oh, it's going to be fairly deep. This is the head section after all. The closer to the dam you get the deeper. Down by the dock, the cut is over 4'. That's a gigantic amount of material to pull out. You don't want more than 12 or 15 feet of depth anyway. Deeper ponds will turn over. If that happens, it'll kill all the fish.

you bid the job according to the stamped approved prints, and you cut and grade to the elevations, if you do that and you know your spot on, then anything after that is an add on or as built and cost more, with that pond work just say the cut is gradually getting deeper and your pulling too much your just costing yourself money because your going to exceed your yardage and not be finished with the cut so you’ll be eating it .

A lot depends on how the contract is written, the exact wording. If it says that the grade will be cut to 343.20 foot elevation in a 100 foot by 500 foot area designated by survey flags, it will generally have a Tolerance or Varience factor given, so maybe +- .2 tenths of a foot. Then as long as everything is minimum 343.00 and maximum 343.40, it passes, and anything outside that needs to be corrected. It could also be specified to cut down to 343.20 maximum surface height, in which case you can go deeper and remove more material, but you are only getting paid to go to that level, so places can be deeper, but nothing can be above that. For a pond they generally don't care about going deeper, except if getting rid of the dirt is a problem lol But generally if you don't complete the project according to the specifications, and according to the contract wording, you will need to correct the issues, or you are likely to have problems! In this case if you have actual blueprints, they should have all the specs you have to follow, and the contract will basically be to create the end result as shown on the blueprints. And how picky the engineer or project head is all depends on the job. If the goal is to have the water 5 feet deep under the dock, and one spot of gushy mud is 6 inches high, it may not matter, especially if they are going to working out there further to build the dock, or the engineer may be very picky and write them up if he can find a single mud bomb that measures above the spec, even if all it needs is to be stepped on... Lol

@@ke6gwf that’s a very good explanation and should cover it, those seem like charlotte elevations too

@@njonebale7889 in the video Chris read the elevation on one of the grade stakes and I couldn't remember the exact elevation but I tried to get close lol I used to be the grade setter on pond projects that would give Chris vertigo from the tall pond dams and I still remember a little of it!

Some tabs welded to the bed side plate of the pivot plate, and a few across the bottom of the tailgate, then simply unbolt the pivot plate and then left/set the gate back on the tabs.