Holy fuck. It sounds like you're a genius trying to communicate what you're saying. I'm so sorry your previous constraints have been expelled and I mean that sincerely. Please continue your work no matter what. I love you, sir.

Great to see that you are making progress on your project! As you progress in your design I think that you're going to find that sla is awesome, and affords a lot of advantages over fff. but eventually I think you'll agree plastic is still plastic. 1 revision ago, all of my major components were made of resin. They worked well, but as they would age and be in the sun they would develop micro fractures and eventually break, often at the most inopportune time.That's when I made the commitment to fabricate the next build in aluminum. Hit me up if you want to compare ideas or collaborate. Keep up the great work 👍.

Fricking awesome to see your progress!!!

I don't even mind how often this sort of update comes out I'm just loving the whole design and learning process behind it. Especially the exploration of SLA for small and intricate parts, MSLA is even cooler if you have a chance to look at it.

Wow, these parts look really futuristic! It’s so cool!

Ive been putting my isopropanol in a sealed see-through container and leaving it in the sun for a few hours. The resin will precipitate out and can then be filtered out and left to harden leaving relatively clean ipa to be reused.

This is exciting! Keep up the great work!

Dude. Videos like this is why I love the internet. I greatly appreciate the level of detail you've shared, as I have the exact same concerns for the exact same reasons. I too am looking to purchase a resin printer to replace my now ancient XYZ AiO printer. Thanks for this.

Keep up the good work. Your work is amazing

Thanks for the diversion... this got me researching Resin 3D printers. As often the case, the internet teaches us stuff we didn't know we wanted to know. Cheers.

Keep up the good work man !

Excellent work Will!

Still good you did fdm for people who don't have a resin printer

Welcome to the SLA world! I joined the SLA team a year ago and have never questioned it since. FDM is great, SLA is just my go to for most anything I print.

Great design work. Kudos!

Congratulations! I'm glad this is working out so well for you.

Can't wait for more updates! :D

so glad you've made the transition. the hand will be so sleek now

Awesome stuff!

One more thing you'll find different from FDM, heat. Because it's resin, the part can handle more heat than any non-heat designed FDM filament.

This video shows the main reason why I call my (just started) channel "Chemicals&Robots", I believe people like you will push forward a huge change of the world. I particularly believe fdm printers could meet the specifications for your project , but (in my opinion) its not a 3DP project, but a revolution on amputee patients life quality. Go ahead and you've got a new Supporter. Hope to talk to you soon about bring this revolution to North Brazil.

Excited for you bud... All the best...

Skynet should hire this guy

Cant wait till this is complete

If this was about a 1/35 scale Gundam build this channel would blow up with support.

Dude you deserve many more subscribers than you currently have

Hello there! In my experience, taking off the supports before putting the pieces into the cleaner leaves better surface finishing. Great project btw, love seeing it come together.

may we finally benefit from the ingenious minds of this guy and have almost seamless movement in prosthetic hands, thumbs up

"I don't want to say the brand name because I'll get demonized" me: Why??? shows the servo... ohhhhhhh lol

Amazing work, I always enjoy your videos. Keep up the great work. With current advancements in miniaturisation, maybe for version 2 of this hand each finger can be actuated by a direct driven motor. Like a micro robotic arm.

Hi Will! Even a crappy ultrasonic bath will make a huge change to the removal of the uncured resin. I let mine sit in there for about 20 min and they always come out super clean including the interiors as well as blind holes.

Just picked up a SLA printer as well and love it. Looking for a really strong resin to use with mechanical parts. How are your parts holding up and what resin have you been using?

After finishing the prototyping with the SLA printing, you can ask the parts to be made with iron 3d printing , as a last finish. It costs a tiny tiny tiny tiny, but just a tiny bit more but could be worth it

Go for the ultrasonic cleaner. If you can get a decently sized one, do, you'll probably use it for other things as well, very useful tools, and in the resin aspect, about the only thing short of pressure that can clean properly, all the small bits out. However, be mindful of what fluids you use, ultrasonic cleaners, as part of the math behind the sonic aspect of the deal, specifically, the horns, well, if you put too thick or too thin a fluid, that's going to shorten the life span of the unit (if that happens, don't throw it away, just replace the broken parts, they are simple machines, but behind them there's complex math, one of the reasons there's only a hand full of DIY sonic cleaners out there).

i got an SLA printer a while ago too and was equally impressed with the detail reproduction and tolerances! the only thing that concerns me with your tiny parts is (at least in my experience) compared to FDM parts are much more brittle, they chip and fracture much much easier. and if you are thinking of printing anything that will see lots of Sun or UV exposure, forget it, as it will warp, discolour and crack within a matter of weeks.

Awesome! 3d printer for prototyping is the best choice. This type printer is more precise. I'm using a homemade CNC mill from plywood.

I don't really know something useful to say like Aserta or Jens Kaufmann, but I like what you're doing and keep up the great work.

I was very excited to see how you reacted to SLA printing, glad to see you were as impressed as I thought you would be! I also have an Anycubic Photon, they're amazing machines (though I believe it's technically a DLP (display light printing) printer not SLA (stereolithography))

good to see that your getting some good use out of your photon, hopefully it benefits your projects.

for the size of the componants you can reduce the size of the touch points to the part quite a lot in chitubox. I would also point out that The printer you're using is actually a DLP printer and not an SLA printer. SLA printers use Lasers to cure the resin Which is why they're more expensive DLP use a screen to display a slice of the model and shine a light (usually UV) up through the screen to cure the resin. You may also want to look into finding Tough DLP resins rather than the standard ones as they'll hold up to the wear and rubbing better

Looks great! You will likely want to play with more durable resins.

Do watch out with SLA prints for structural components! I learned the hard way that SLA prints tend to warp and creep over time. Especially if forces are applied to it. After some months the tolerances with come loose and surfaces might warp way more than i ever notices on FDM prints in PLA or PETG. For example, i had to shim up all my bearing seating holes after 3 months since they started to rattle in my resin prints. So i went back to FDM for most structural parts.

I used those servos in an animatronics project and they were super nice for how cheap they were

One tip: You can design parts that need to be one part, but maybe you have to put something inside it, or it's difficult to print as one part, as TWO parts. Then after assembly, put some uncured resin on the mating surfaces, and cure it. It's like gluing it but the glue is the same material and strength as the print. This works best with transparent resin. Like the Siraya tech blue on Amazon. I use that almost exclusively.

There's a time and a place for each current technology in 3D printing: there was obsolutely no competition for SLA / DLP in your scenario. I cannot wait to see what kind of doors are opened now that you've invested in a new machine.

People seem to be getting good results mixing e.g. 20% Siraya Tenacious resin with regular resin. This'll keep costs down for prototyping and yield parts that will bend rather than break!

*hi 5 new SLA bro* - esp as we're both in the biomedical field. IMHO the best place for a SLA workstation is a bathroom. Ultrasonic is by far the best to remove; use a container with solvent (EtOH) in a water bath. Consider adding some "flex" resin for additional strength.

I was loving your channel because your 2d based design was going to make it easier for me to machine it out of aluminum. But now that you've changed to a more organic design I am sad to say i will not be supporting your patreon but I will be following you channel for your part picking and design ideas... thank you.

This is great. I want a 3D printer for my projects, but I also want to print DnD minis on the side. A weird case, but while I mainly want it for parts, I will likely print more minis over all. So I just wanted to see that these types of printers could still do parts well enough.

Oh another thing, An ultrasonic helps TONS but, ive been told not to use IPA in a ultrasonic. Use a strong degreesing detergent, Im currently trying CIF floor cleaner. works 99% of the time cleaning up the surface but i still struggle getting all resin out of holes... Best thing to do is first agitate it in IPA for a little while... then maybe rinse in some detergent, then put into the ultrasonic with detergent for several minutes....

There are also engineering resins available with similar tensile strengths and stiffness values of ABS. You could try that for some of the structurally demanding parts.

Can you please Link the thin Potentiometer you used? Thank you and great work!

Dope!

Wow if I every loose my hand ill commission your hand and u deserve a sub because I'm a cybernetic freak 😆

super interesting! i want to make both artistic and functional prints and its hard to know what printer to get, would love to hear how your thoughts went when you chose this one. I was thinking of the saturn 2 initially , but maybe its overkill doubling the price and this one could be fine... Regards

do the cables in the joint have more torque than say a worm gear ?

FINALLY SLA

I'm looking to get the water washable and biodegradable resins next, I would suppose they are much less toxic and annoying to clean during post processing. It's a fun technology, the parts produced can look very professional with a bit of know-how and trial and error.

You videos is very very good. My English is very very Bad. Greetings from Argentina

Is resin good as ABS? Can you print with it parts for RC cars?

First time I have seen this... dual screen internet, means I am googling and ebaying and reading manuals while pausing this video... thanks for the insights. Looks very effective. I would like a bigger build space option. But for the price... I wonder how strong the material is for wire pulleys?

@Will Yes, You are right with the ultrasonics cleaning, especially in high aspect ratio structures. due to the fact that a quasi laminar flow over the surface will generate a Nernst layer that favours diffusion as transport mechanism only (the other terms of the Nernst Planck equation are negligible, because you do not apply any field the Migration term is dropped and because of the laminar flow the convection drops to zero near the boundaries of the liquid.) So normally (Laminar flow) the thickness is inverse proportional to the velocity of the laminar flow. But for high aspect ratio structures this is not interesting. But if you are using Sonic agitation the thickness of the Nernst diffusion layer is inversely promotional to the frequency. So blast it with US. Note also that the energy that you put in it is not affecting the result directly, but US is directional. so get the parts moving in the basket. Good luck J

May I ask if you recommend SLA for functional bushing of vehicles?

Are there any good videos on how to add programming onto the Arduino? I printed, wired, and assembled your eye mech but cant get the programming to work. I'm good with mechanical stuff but the programming/computer stuff is a big weakness in my knowledge. I spent quite a bit on parts to make them would love to see them working. Thanks!

I would personally redesign the servos into linear actuators. You will have a lot more torque to pull cables

Would you ever sell the STLs or make them available for people to build their own prosthetics?

LoL that brand name! How to loose all your client since 2019!

Any concerns with the resin being significantly more brittle than the other plastics?

good quality parts

I love the idea of SLA printers, but how do you dispose of the waste?

So how fast is the resin going for these components? And what about the strength of the material? I know there are special strong resins these days. OH, and I forgot to mention! Really like you get almost the same result as your 3D drawings. Nice and clean.

Out of curiosity have you found the mechanical properties of the resin parts change over time? Do they become more brittle or slowly warp?

Technically this type of printer is called (DLP) digital light processing printer. But it use basically the same kind of printing material.

How is the dimenestional accuracy/tolerances? I can't for the life of me find an answer. everyone is just printing minis. How brittle are tough abs like resins like Siriya tech? How much bigger do you make parts? And how much difference do you leave for press fit parts?

I'd be very interested to see how the design handles with how brittle SLA is if you want higher heat resistance. Going to ABS like reduces heat resistance significantly. I haven't bought an SLA printer, but I've ordered professional (think half million dollar) SLA prints with quality controlled resins and aesthetics. Hope it holds up and you don't have to start experimenting with different resins and a mixed printing but I have a scary feeling...

Just a hint to the photon: You can disable the smell extractor fan without any issues

Nice

What resins are you using?

Check out the AnyCubic print cleaner system. Well worth the price and it cures prints as well.

I've been waiting for my Elegoo Saturn to arrive before I make your eyes. Do you think you'll need to revisit other projects not you can see the advantage of resin printers?

Sir how design biomechtronic hand sir by you are suggest me the resources sir

you need to check out the new bio resins from esun. Nearly no smell, prints great, no brittle parts - they are way better then the original resin.

Hello Will, good work, appreciate your efforts. I'm curious and wanted to know for what application are you intending to use these bionic hands? Like is it for disabled people?

Are the parts you printed very brittle ?

what 3d modeling software is this?

hell yeah

How is the overflowing resin? Can you use it multiple times? Is it getting slightly hardened or do you need to dispose of it after X amount of prints? Basicly... how cost efficient is it?

Hey.. back checking out your video becuase I need to make a robot finger for my next video. SO I'm looking for inspiration on the design. But I wanted to say that it looks like your winodw is open open, meaning that you're letting UV light in. Remember that UV light cures the resin. So you'll want to always have a shade on there or print at night.

🔥😍❤👍

Look into using an ABS like resin, I use elegoo mars abs like resin, its tougher and able to take stress much more than anycubic resin. IE it will shatter less as its less brittle...

Super happy for you, sad for me. SLA printer huh... Maybe.. one day... Hope the project ends well!

How are the tolerances on the cheap sla?

I use a cheap ultrasonic cleaner and I love it!

Can't stop reading Sealed Lead Acid CORONASERVO LOL

Joel, of 3D Printing Nerd, after this video was posted, just posted a video of his Resin Printing process. I highly recommend it. As well as the other really good recommendations mentioned by my fellow commentors.

About those wires used for finger - Can you use something like "addressable led" for christmas lights, so it's one long wire instead of multiple thick wires going for each joint separately? Just remined me those christmas lights with alphabet from Stranger Things :)

how much is that printer cost?

I would love to get into SLA. But the whole processing that takes place after the print kinda scares me. It is so much more convenient to just pop your part off the bed.

Be wary regarding resin, it's great for detail, but its brittle. You might be better off using PLA for some parts instead of resin.

If you think SLA printing is amazing, one day you aught to try DLP or cDLM printing Same or better quality (65 micron XY accuracy, up to 30 micron Z layer height) drastically reduced print time since an entire layer cures at once, filling the bed with 20 copies of a component prints in the same time as printing just 1