I had to comment and say that I subbed to you a while ago. Haven't watched many uploads lately. But I remember why I subbed to you, and it was your quality in editing, attention to detail, properly written scripted, and Similar hobbies/passions (I'm a CNC Machinist) I love watching the residential side of CNC grow to an affordable price and amazed at the different devices in the up & coming development! Short story you have low subscription count and I believe you deserve more and will get more with time I'm sure! Great job keep up the good work.

Thanks for the info, I am pretty much already knee deep in the Dewalt since that's what I had shipped with my Shapeoko, but it's good to see that there isn't anything so different about one vs the other. No buyers remorse. Still good to know if there was a huge difference, I'd probably invest.

You really are so very good at making these videos! Well done Winston- good job!

Love your vids, I was looking through my CNC that I just received from Millright earlier this year (couldn't assemble due to surgery recovery), and as soon as I saw that reduction bushing I was like YES!!! I can turf (or repurpose) the 110v Dewalt provided (USA), and replace with a 230v Makita (AUS). Imagine my surprise when I found that they're not sold through Carbide3D any more (as per your original link) Subscribed and look forward to more of your content (either CNC or 3D printing), and hopefully I can get hold of one of those reducing bushings in the meantime. Keep up the good work!

I like seeing the geekery about CNCs on your channel. Well done video!

I think that was a very well done and comprehensive comparison from the users perspective. Especially since I don't care about the precise nor nit picking that other perfectionists may be. Thanks again!

Top Notch Winston! I sincerely appreciate the time and effort you have exercised to produce informative and very well narrated videos. You are on the Brilliant side of KZfaq . I have used your 'opinion' (I'd say expertise) from previous videos to recently purchase the Shapeoko 3 XXL. You have my subscription ... looking forward to more tips and tricks! and of course Thank You!

I'm used to larger, corded routers kzfaq.infoUgkxfQ5_mgwq6PcudJvAH25t-I4D-3cTPz4z so this was a different experience for me. Basically, this is an incredibly sweet machine, fits well in the hand, etc. It has slightly less power than I'm used to, but that's understandable. Maneuvering freehand takes some practice. These days, it's especially nice to be able to avoid power cords. This is above the level of a hobbyist but below a pro level.

The Makita was my choice for my XL based on the speed range. It is working perfectly and the longest job has been about 6 hours. (Before I knew what I was doing with feed rates, etc.) The router did not heat up at all. For all around use I think the Makita was a good choice. Keep on producing your videos. I find them very useful. BTW, the SUCKIT looks like a great addition to the SO3.

We use the Makita routers on our machines and love them. But the collets on the Dewalt are nice. Good video keep them coming. Best Matt

Informative video as always! I'm currently using a 3 phase 1.5kw air cooled spindle on my shapeoko and in the UK it worked out cheaper buying that rather than the Dewalt! Although, it will be interesting to see how long it lasts!

I just really love your videos. They have the perfect balance of Science and real-world Shop experience. I have a Chinese water cooled spindle on my CNC router. I'm very impressed with the quality. The bearings are particularly nice. Spending it by hand, it feels smoother than just about any spindle I've ever experienced including some very expensive CNC spindles, and the price wasn't much more than buying a router at Home Depot.

Thank you for your concise and well balanced review! Great video!

*I absolutely love this tool!!! The first one was defective and Dewalt replaced **MyBest.Tools** More bulky than the Bosch and Makita corded palm routers I have but worth it. Nice solid base*

I have the SO3 with the Dewalt router but I'm thinking of getting the Makita also because of the lower speed range. I'm trying to mill plastics and its melting pretty bad unless I take super shallow cuts. The bottom of the speed range of the Makita seems to be the highest I've ever seen anyone claim they've milled plastics.

It might be worth mentioning that the Makita cannot reach the bed of the shpeoko without the bottom wheels of the carriage falling out of the slots. I was looking to do the threaded insert mod that you did but found that I was unable to do so without buying extended reach end mills. I wish I had gone with the Dewalt after finding this out.

Noise is an issue that I did not think was going to be an issue. Some CNC jobs can take a while to run. So the machine making all kinds of racket can get to be a bit much after a while.

Be careful with long jobs on the makita I had one catch on fire and the replacement wore out the bearings. Both replaced under their excellent warranty. Kept the last router for hand use and got a Chinese water called spindle and vfd and it's been perfect. And so much less noise.

Nice video. It's always good to see what's on the market. I wonder how Kress (German brand) will stand against these two. One comment though, as an acoustic engineer I can tell that the comments and measurements on the sound levels are not completely fair. Because the Makita is mounted, vibrations propagate trough the (CNC) frame. In general this gives higher (and 'harsher') sound levels. You will need to mount both on the same way to get a decent comparison. For the same reason it wouldn't be a bad idea to insulate (with rubber or so), the router from the frame. Unfortunately that's also not that easy because rubber isn't hard enough (more play)

I have the Makita RT0701C (but no CNC yet) and I love it. However, in the manual it states the following (direct quote): "If the tool is operated continuously at low speeds for a long time, the motor will get overloaded, resulting in tool malfunction." Having only run it hand held, mostly for edging and the occasional pattern, I usually have it on for about 1-2 minutes at most before giving it a rest while I make adjustments to my work piece (noise being the main reason I turn it off) so I have no idea what "malfunction" actually means or what Makita feels is a "long time". My best guess is that running it at slow speeds does not allow the motor to cool. Other than a potentiometer there doesn't seem to be any electronics in this thing to overheat or stress. Makita does not define specifically what they consider to be "low speeds". The manual lists the machine's 6 speeds (which are similar to what Winston quotes) as: 1=10k, 2=12k, 3=17k, 4-22k, 5=27k, 6=30k. They don't say which of these are "low speeds"...everything but 6? Speeds 1-3? Anything under 3? Only speed 1 (10k)? Overheating an electric motor is not a good thing obviously, so I assume their warning is about burning the motor out and that the fan doesn't provide enough cooling at lower speeds. Unfortunately, the manual says nothing specific about any of this and the Makita website does not seem to provide further detail. Of course ambient temperature will play a factor as well as the loads on the motor (materials, bit type, bit sharpness, feed speed, etc) but it would have been nice for them to at least provide some rough basic numbers, something like "at 20C avoid running the motor continuously at speed 1/2/3 for longer than 20 minutes, in 30C weather reduce this to 10 minutes." On the other hand, they aren't selling this machine as a CNC router. If they were they'd probably also tell you what the diameter is and possibly other dimensions. If anyone has experience running this Makita at "low speeds" for a "long time" I'm sure others would be interested to hear about your experience, particularly if they are planning to do long CNC runs.

I'm using this makita router on my CNC and so far haven't had any problems with it and I tried milling wood, plastic and aluminum.. Very nice video btw :)

I recommend a Kress 1050 from Germany. It is intended for CNC use and runs very true. You can see it in action on some of my videos. It runs between 5000-28000RPM. The design and built quality is excellent.

to solve your collets getting stuck simple scribble all over the outside with a pencil. this provides the little bit of lubrication it needs to come out when you want it to, but not so much that it will slip.

Two things I like about my 611 that make using the 0701 tedious, the 611 has a auto release collet and a nice LED to see the work happening inside the dust shoe. Trying to extract a 1/4 shank, 1/16" endmill from the Makita is likely to cost $39 in a broken bit. Anyone know if there is an auto release collet for the Makita?? Without that it's worthless to me.

Where can I find info on the more expensive cnc spindles mentioned?

My shapeoko shipped with the carbide spindle, where does this no brand spindle fall in relation to these 2?

Chance of testing run-out on them?

great video, you answered every question I had.

thanks for the video, learned alot

Can anyone tell me why the new Bosch colt 1.25hp router isn't able to be used with the shapeoko 3? I emailed the manufacturer and they simply said that it wasn't able to be used.

What are the diameters of these spindles? 65mm??

Try the hatachi, seem more quiet than either.

For us european Makita is often cheaper than Dewalt and (until recently may be) way easier to get by. I went with the 1500w spindle for my SO3 (2015) and could not be happier, silence is gold as I work in a 15square meters underground 1 car garage.

hello.. May I ask if Makita RT0701C could make a long-run on more than one hour? Thank you!

Thingiverse has an adapter you can print off.

What type of dust extraction bracket is that

what is the best dept per cut and the ipm you can suggest?

For PSU, how many Amps is good ?

Excellent comparison, I am interested in buying the Shapeoko but I am extremely sensitive to noise. Could someone suggest a spindle that I could use instead of a router?

Very friendly KZfaqr you are.

If my budget for a spindle were up to $500, what would you recommend for a Shapeoko? I'm looking to carve aluminum.

Dear Winston, I like your channel before 2 days ago I received my new Xl shapeoko but the DeWalt router I purchased from Iraq 220v but the problem it's the collet it comes 8 mm long type, not 6 mm how can I change it because the dewalt collet different not like I have ER11 can you help me?

What about weight? Lighter weight would be better for CNC. I'm assuming Makita is lighter just because it's smaller.

What's the name of the CNC machine you are using?

What about the RT0702C?

Who wouldnt one use a brushless air or water cooled cnc spindle?

I have burned out 4 Dewalt DWP611 routers in my CNC router. The second to last one lasted a few hours and the final one lasted only an hour. My understanding is that it's the variable speed controller. But I'll never buy another one. I replaced it with the Makitra RT0701C which has been great. So far.

HI. i have that Makita router, and i use it on my CNC, my question is, how long can i use it at 12,000 RPM speed, before it needs a break? Thanks.

Can you tell us where you got the vacuum dust collector attachment from? I'm planning on machining a lot of soft ceramic & that will be extremely necessary to keep the dust from destroying everything. Thanks!

I just ordered a Shapeoko 3, coming in next week and ordered it with a Makita. I already have a Bosch Colt, but since I didn't see that as an option, I didn't think of asking if it would fit. Do you know by chance? I guess I can answer that in a week or so when I set the thing up.

Is that shim still necessary for the Makita? I noticed the Carbide Compact Router uses the same sized 65mm Sweepy as the one Carbide recommends for those who wish to use the Makita. Yet on the Carbide store page, I didn't see anything that indicates the need for the shim to adapt the Makita.

Hi, sorry for my english, but I didn't understand this part: "tremendous racket at full tilt" - please help me to understand.. does Makita has some problems with it's collet? And thank you for the video.

I have just received a Katsu which I plan to use. It looks like the Makita but it’s half the price- anyone tried this? ( I hope it’s not half as good 😢)

Sounds like it's swings and roundabouts, but where I come from, the Makita is half the price of the DeWalt.

A big concern for these spindles is shaft runout. Did you do any tests there? Also does the bush you used to shim the Makita into the Shapeoko contribute to any imprecision? I know that there are several third parties who make collets for the DeWalt in 1/8 and 1/4" sizes, do they also sell collets for the Makita, or are there any aftermarket collets available? It looks like there's a significant difference in the height of the two routers that you didn't really address that might be a critical factor in making a decision as well, since the Makita seems like it might offer an extra inch of Z axis clearance if it's set up right.

I know this is a dumb question but how does the machine control the speed of these routers?

i didnt even know the makitia was a popular choice i just went to home depot and bought the smallest one :)

Any thought on loading routers with 1/2" collet?

Imo the DeWalt is a much better router . LED and you only need one wrench to change bits makes it a win for me .

I would have to say that, now, both are not about $100. The Dewalt costs $60 more then the Makita while the Makita is $99 where I live.

sounds like a proper spindle is a better deal

$100 6 years ago. $160 today. Cool

What you're saying is the Makita has a better singing voice with a large vocal range. Dewalt sounds like an amateur soprano vocalist singing in the shower.

$100?.....where the hell did u get ur incorrect data from?....the dewalt 611 is 139.99 reg retail.....not $100....please get ur facts right before you post...thank you