Glad to be of some help. I wanted to use the factory switches too, but laziness got the better of me. I was going to use the whole harness and everything but find out it wouldn’t work without the GEM from the donor truck. I have plans of redoing all the electronics and drivetrain though down the line.

So the "Driver" factory window switch did not work out because it was programmed to talk to the BCM, but I found some switches that looked "close" to OEM and had to cut out the trim some to fit but it def looks better than if I kept the door panel with the hole where the gear sat then mounting a big ugly block to it 😂. I was just so glad I found your video. I'm happy! 😁

Thanks! That’s awesome to hear! I’m glad I was able to help. Enjoy!

Absolutely. Thanks for watching

No problem! I’m glad it was useful

Not “that guy” at all. Thanks for the insight.

They’re similar. The pin outs may be different because the passenger side controls just that one window, but on the driver side you’ll have 2 dedicated switches which should look the same. From what I remember, the driver side has the same wiring but two wires for up and down for the passenger window is run across to the driver side switches as well as a ground for that switch. If you’re able to find a wire diagram for the power windows for the 240, that would be helpful considering you’re using original wiring. When you start getting into things like one push down/up functions you start adding more wires, but if the switches are basic in their functionality like these, it should be pretty straightforward. So if the switches are a 5 post connector it will be pretty simple to know what to do. I’m not sure if that answers quite what you were looking for, but I’ll help where I can.

@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks man appreciate it. Gonna give it a shot when I have everything, otherwise I will probably buy the universal kit and go from there. Now just to find what is what on the original buttons haha

@tuned4life I will say I started to go this route myself, but learned I would need the GEM computer from the donor vehicle which is the security system module, and I would have to rip out/change more things than I wanted to. Being a pre OBD-II car, idk if that simplifies things for you or not, but something else to look into before you get too deep.

@@GooseAutoWorks yeah I think I have everything needed and figured out how to do this conversion, just need to do the wiring The whole system is based on 4/5 wires and ofc 12v and ground Driver : Up, down Driver/passenger : up, down I think I just need to start with a FSM next to me and then it will all fall into place haha

Thanks! I’ve got links to everything in the video description. When I bought it, it was $50 or $60. It looks like now it’s about $70.

Thank you! It stops on its own, but presumably because it has a max force limit, so I don’t hold the button any longer than I need to.

@@GooseAutoWorks great. Thank you for your reply.

No different from the first day as far as I can tell. The passenger side could use some lubrication. I think since it was never used as much the internals are a bit bound up. But it hasn’t deteriorated over time.

Thanks, I was wondering the same thing...

I would imagine you would need to change out the door panel and you would need to change out the gearing and lift mechanism to match with the manual crank.

Here you go: amzn.to/3oFRzuX

Thank you! I’m glad you enjoyed it!

The kit for the windows is linked in the description. As far as the door locks, that might require you to have the wiring harness and GEM module from a donor truck. The windows and locks are linked into the factory security system and so it all needs to talk to one another.

I got the console from eBay, but it was out of an Expedition. The door panels were from a Supercab F-150 at a pick and pull yard. There were Expeditions there too with consoles. I wasn’t thinking about the pick and pull place when I ordered the console online. It was way cheaper at the junkyard. I did buy a seat out of one of the Expeditions though since I needed the seat pan and bracket for the console swap.

Typically, yes. Just make sure everything else follows that same convention and polarity

Well I pulled these door panels from a truck with factory electric windows and they attach just the same. As far as the switches, I took one of the factory ones apart, and looked at the wiring schematics online, but to be honest I couldn’t quite figure out how I would need to repin the harness/switch to make them work. I’m sure if I put more effort into it, I could get it done though. It’s just a switch, it’s pretty straightforward, I just didn’t feel like messing with it at the time.

The truck’s been down since the summer with a cracked piston so it’s in storage. But in the time I was using it everything was doing just fine.

@@GooseAutoWorks geez how did your piston crack?

I’m really not sure. I was tracking down a knock and put a borescope down each cylinder when I found it. My best guess was it was oil (or lack thereof) related, but not too sure other than that. I’m going to either swap in a long block from a Gen 2 Lightning or a Coyote 5.0, but I haven’t fully decided yet.

Oh Dang. Yeah it’s weird they did that. You can still do the method I used, you’ll just have to go through the firewall to the fuse box under the hood. Not ideal, but still doable. There should be a grommet or 2 you can use to pass through to the other side.

@@GooseAutoWorks I have the base model . If I don't convert oem style , do I still need the jumper ?

Well regardless of what switch you decide to use, you’ll need to get power to the motor. The easiest way is using the fuse jumper like I used. It’s clean and gives the motors their own fuse.

@@GooseAutoWorks Thanks

Absolutely. Good luck!

It calls for a 30, but I used a 25. I’d rather it be slightly under than the other way around. But I don’t remember if the kit came with fuses or not.

@@GooseAutoWorks thanks man, still working good up to now?

@ryanydc6237 Well the truck has a cracked piston so it’s been in storage since last summer, but everything was working just fine at that point.

I mean you probably could although I’m sure that’s not a popular choice lol. You’d have to swap the internals. The lift assembly would be different. You might have an issue with the security module as the power windows are tied onto that computer.

The kit and the process is universal, but I’m not familiar enough with the interior of Wrangler doors to say if this process works. If they’re not removable, then yes. If they are, they have contact patches instead of wires running through the door and into the cabin.

No. I looked into it, and even started taking a wiring harness out from a truck at the junk yard, but abandoned the plan. It’s possible to make it work, but you need the factory wiring harness to the doors and the GEM module for the security system to allow it to operate. If you already have power locks it should be much more straightforward, maybe just repining a connector or something, but in my case it was more trouble than it was worth to me.

These are i used. amzn.to/3oFRzuX I have everything else linked in the description as well.