I like bright colors for outdoor tools. Helps keep track of them. Thanks George. Gotta look it up now.

Had mine come today. It's a pretty good knife, very sharp out of the box, well made and a substantial piece of kit. I'm impressed with it I must say!

I have the toothpick in this series, and really like it for the garden. Stainless blade, bright color, crazy light weight, and I love the tongue-in-cheek covers with fake shields and bolsters. It’s weird that they have g10 liners instead of metal - I wonder how they’ll hold up over time. I like bone handles best, too - but these are great for folks always losing knives under sprinklers, or leaving them in pockets through the wash. Ask me how I know. Lol. I want to try the reaper and the cleaver next.

KZfaq people running it are silly don't like truth do they they took down a comment silly tree huggers lol how do you put up with them bud not you your really cool dude I love your videos good job bud

I bought one today from Hennie Hayes UK. It was bloody cheap!

I bought this knife recently and I love it. It reminds me of the knives I carried as a scout, but with a modern twist.

I like the Marbles knives, lightweight and good action. I may grab this one, thanks for the look)

Says G10 is glass expoxy. Love that knife and the bone one .

I'll carry this when I don't fancy carrying one of my Victorinox knives. And I WILL put a better edge on it.

About 10 years ago, I stopped counting when it went over 1000. I certainly have too many!

Just bought one a month ago it’s a good one I enjoy your channel Thanks

I figured out were you live now northern Africa lol lol I'm from America but am German and Cherokee so don't know much about Africa bud I'm just a old viking Indian worrior from the old school bushcrafter before there was a such thing as a bushcrafter it's just my way of life

Bit late to the party here, sorry but G10 is a glass fibre/epoxy resin composite cured under pressure. It’s a material most commonly used as the substrate for printed circuit boards. @2nd Chance George

Great video! I'm gonna check out both of those knives. P.S. I'm a Grumpy Old Man too! : )

The blade and tools of the MR592 have a significant difference from the traditional four blade "Scout" knife, aside from the size. They all have a half-stop. (some people love a half-stop, some loathe them to the point they are a deal killer, while still others don't care one way or the other. I'm counted among the latter group.) None of my other 7 or 8 quad blade "Scout Knife", "Demo Knife" or "Engineers Knife" (The "Engineers Knife" replaced the punch/awl/reamer with a pen blade) have half stops, regardless of age and manufacturer. My two oldest are a 1936 to 1954 Imperial Engineers knife (based on the can opener design it is no older than 1947) and a 1975 Western Cutlery manufactured "Demo" knife the US Army Reserves issued me in post Vietnam 1974.. Another difference: The MR592's punch/awl/reamer has a thread eye, so can be used as a sail or tent needle, using heavy sail and tent thread. Only a couple of my Victorinox Swiss Army knives have that feature. SMKW/Bluegrass Cutlery (owns the Rough Ryder, Marbles,, Queen, and Queen City brands, among others) specifies an excellent heat treat and edge geometry on their 440A stainless steel and T10 carbon steel blades. I've found both to be capable of taking AND HOLDING a 10 degree per side (20 degree inclusive) edge angle (give or take 2~2.5 degrees when sharpening freehand), WITHOUT a so-called "micro bevel" of a blunter 30 or 40 degree inclusive angle. When I was taught how to sharpen a knife going on 63 years ago by my father, paternal and maternal uncles, grand parents, paternal great grand mother, maternal great grandmother and grandfather, AND great-great grandmother (great grandmother's mom) they unanimous on the edge angle (10 degrees per side; lay the blade flat on the stone, raise the blade spine 1/8 inch to 3/16 inch, push the edge over the stone, like you're shaving the stone. NEVER pull the edge. At the end of the stroke, stop, lower the blade spine, lift the blade, flip over and repeat until sharp, then strop on a plain dry leather or canvas strop at a slightly higher angle, using light to moderate pressure, to remove any wire edge that may have developed. (pushing the blade edge helps prevent a wire edge, BTW) They were also unanimous about stropping to restore your working edge, rather than automatically reaching for the sharpening stone, a "razor edge" isn't necessary, and goes away after one or two cuts, leaving your working edge. While it sounds "backwards", a 20 degree inclusive edge stays sharper longer than a 30 degree or greater inclusive edge. The 30 degree and higher inclusive edge is starting out blunter than a 20 degree inclusive edge. Naturally, the blunter edge is going to get even blunter quicker than a keen edge.

Is it a noticeably lighter weight than the marbles g.i. scout knife that is the same knife but all stainless steel? Looks like a great camping or fishing piece to throw in the pack.

Hello George

I like G10 but Micarta has taken over the knife world.

Where can buy this beauty i live inQuebec