This type of thing is where KZfaq really shines: I can soak up the wisdom of someone on the other side of the world. Very well done.

Excellent presentation. Obviously, you have a fine mind for organization, detail, and data assimilation, Mark. It's truly a pleasure to listen to your explanations and reasoning, and what it means to me is a starting point for exploration in any direction I might choose to go in. Great videos. I would like to see you doing more paper grouping at mid ranges like 200-400 yards, especially in the 6mm and smaller calibers. Thank you for your efforts, I hope it pays off for you. It is disappointing to see one million plus views on videos that blow things up and destroy things with guns instead of the pursuit of excellence like you and Sam's videos do so well. Maybe the world will come to its senses if we just keep trying to infuse sense into the picture.

Your comments on FL Sizing VS Neck Sizing makes sense and given the accuracy your getting in your rifles. Thanks for sharing your wealth of info on precision shooting. Always Great Stuff in your videos!!!

Another GREAT video, Thank you both for all the great information!

I totally agree Mark that consistency is the main goal to strive for!! I aways see the impression ring on my reloads on the ogive of the bullet I have been crimping, but most of my loads are for mid range hunting. But i think that is a goal to try and eliminate the ring!!! Thanks for sharing your process as always I've found some advice from your video!!!

Finaly, the truth of hand loading. There are no gives, be flexible and change with as conditions require. I was taught these things in the 70 s, and things haven't changed in this respect. Neater loading tools. Same theory. Love your videos.

Thanks alot mark. Great to get good advice from someone like yourself. I'm gonna have to find myself one of those flash hole tools now. I've got alot of learning to do in this field cheers.

Excellent video . Thank you very much for the information ... I am a big fan of your work Mark and Sam.

Gee Mark, that was excellent!! 10 stars from me mate. Of particular interest was your comment as to making your rifle shoot your desired load as opposed to developing a load for your rifle to shoot. I've never thought of this though what you say makes very good sense. I've never seen of heard this from any other though when you think about it its very practical. Thanks for your wisdom.

Great stuff. I learned a few things watching that video. So thank you.

great video thanks for taking the time to explain how you do it and why.

Never fail to learn from U. Good stuff.

Great job as usual, looking forward to the next vid

Interesting . thanks for taking the time to share. Great stuff

More great info, again. THANKS !!!

Great info, always like ur video's they have great info to help others in shooting.

Great vid Mark, lots of useful information.

Nice as always Mark, You should maybe try annealing your brass every two to three rounds, it will help you tremendously on neck tension. Tell Sam she does a great job with her spotting and shooting as well.

Thanks Mark very clear well explained Steve .

Thanks for the run down. Some great tips.

I have been looking for exactly this kind of info. I should have known that you would have it. Thanks.

Great vid! Thanks for the info.

great video,I like the keep it simple approach.

Awesome video great information !!!

Very informative video and interesting perspective on the powder charge.

Good points mark, makes sense.

awesomeness. thank you for the tips

thank you very much!!!

Very helpful; thank you. J.

thank you for the info

Thank you Sir for what you doing 🙏👍

well said thats all i can say thank you sir.

Something that would be really interesting would be a video showing the differences in velocities you get using your reloading methods, shooting through chronographs. I think consistent velocity is likely the most important factor in vertical dispersion of shots over distance, and I would like to see what kind of results you're getting with your obviously careful mechanics of reloading. Watching your videos, I wouldn't hesitate having you rebuild an automobile engine for me, it would no doubt beat all manufacturer's tolerances. Thanks again for your efforts.

Great video Mark. l was very surprised to hear you don't use a corner graft . I do and my loads have less than 10 f.p. s. variation if I do my part. Have a great day.

I really liked this. This is how I feel I need to reload. Totally agree with Good prep and consistency, (not chasing nodes or ladder testing) Do you ever worry about the overall length of the round? How close to the Lans etc... or Is it just getting the projectile to fit? I have tried the same round with multiple distances from the lans with no change to the results. Thanks again to both of you for your vids!

Great insights. I could never understand the logic behind a ladder test and jumping to conclusions based on 5 data points when you have so many variables affecting your groups

I wonder why there is only one thumb down for your most of your videos, some are jealous probably. Great videos great content, keep it up please. 👍🏻

Thank you, very useful. I found it fascinating that you don't use ladder loads for you reloads.

Thanks Mark, excellent presentation as always. Question!! Do you crimp? If I may add that I am also in the mechanical and engineering field, and agree with you with respect to not liking the idea of non-lubed metal on metal, however , I have mentioned this before and you may like to give it a try. I wash all my new projectiles in hot water and dish soup, rinse them and dry them in the oven. I then tumble them for an hour in a small-ish container with 1/4 tea spoon of hex boron nitride. It is like a white graphite but can withstand very high temperatures. It makes the bullet very slippery and easy to load. It also conditions the barrel and felicitates throat longevity. It makes the bullet so slippery that it reduces MV that can be over come with a slight crimp or higher powder charge. It would be at least worth researching. Here is where I have purchased it from, yeah its expensive but a small amount goes a long way, 50 g will do thousands of bullets. www.ebay.com.au/itm/Boron-Nitride-Powder-Hexagonal-50g/223138891558?hash=item33f41d4726:g:QFAAAOSwsN9XChCF:rk:1:pf:0 Kindest regards Walt.

good thoughts, some I do myself....the other thing which was not mentioned was annealing case necks....I would like to see you speak up on that subject as well...I myself only do it when I feel it is necessary...say after 5+ reloads and neck tension has become inconsistant as felt while seating projectiles innthe die, and we certainly dont want split necks from work hardening!

Another great video, Thank you. What is your opinion of Graphite as a sizing lube? And also could you see any benefit in slightly enlarging the case flash hole to help powder ignition? Thanks again.

Mark, since your were talking about lubricant, have you ever try coatings your bullets with Hexagonal Boron Nitride? Mr David Tubb is a big fan of it. Thanks cheers for Tucson Arizona. USA 🇺🇸

Awesome video and information as always. Just curious, about how many rounds do you send down the tube before you put it on video? I know that you almost always site in at 100 yards. Do you do anything more? Thanks for sharing, you inspire me to do my best.

Great video Mark and Sam thank you for the info. quick question how often do you anneal your brass? also in your neck sizing die do you use bushings?

Mark: I did not know where to post or ask the question so I chose this video since it is somewhat related. I believe I remember you saying during one of your videos that you do not really do much in the way of developing a load for a rifle, but instead you find the "upper end of the safe zone" and then "TUNE" your rifle to that particular load. Maybe you have addressed this somewhere else but could you please explain or make a video on how you accomplish this. Thanks from TEXAS!

An interesting way to do things for sure. Thank you for the videos. You going to compete at the king of 2 mile ever?

Good video again, Mark. BTW, is that an orchard behind you in the video, and if it is, what are you growing?

Been watching your efforts and it got me to wondering just how far you could hit with a 20mm? Not certain if they let you have something that large there at this time.

You develop a load like a hunting load rather than a target load. The Sierra Reloading Manual does hunting loads as you describe.

I need to learn to start watching your full video before I ask questions. I asked a question in a very long comment and the next thing that you touched upon answered my question. But if you could read it and give me your input I would appreciate that

Mark, for the life of me I can't remember which video it was the you mentioned standard vs magnum primers. Could you please reiterate that info or tell me what video that was?

hey mark could use some help... first of all would like to say thx for putting your videos up to try to help ppl out.. having said that.. I got a rem700 300wm 24in 5r a couple days ago and usually don't have trouble reloading for 308 6.5 and 223 but I have got my first 2 cases stuck in my redding fl premium die but so tried to just nk size but I cant get them to chamber.. hell I can hardly get factory ammo to chamber and after I fire them some of them are extre to get out of the damn gun. hell I can barely cam the bolt bk over more less pull the thing bk... any ideas?? please... at a lose...

Hey great info. What is your opinion on using a outside mike to measure case head expansion? Multiple sources ie: gunsmiths and bullet makers have instructed me that some primers react differently in different rifles depending on bolt lug wear, chambered reamers, etc. They've claimed measuring right before and right after should not see more than 0.0005" expansion. Stop charge at that point. Thoughts..... Many books have claimed this method which you have instructed and seems like a quick visual but I've seen flattened primers and even cratering from base level charges from book..... So it seems there has to be an exact way without using pressure trace equipment.

As usual, a clear concise presentation. Lots of food for thought. I.E. Why turn yourself in knots with lots of expensive gear when a simple straight forward approach works for 2000 yard hits?.

Try a diluted Glycerin lube on the bullets. Worked for me

Very informative video. I'm just afraid that lubing the case outside is not a good idea. This puts significantly more stress on the breachclosing mechanism, because the cartridge case when fired lose grip in the chamber.

Mark, what COAL/CBTO length do you use for the .300 WM with your 230 grain Bergers?

Thanks or charing.

its important activate the subtitles when upload the videos. Thanks!

I will definitely be finishing my brass prep with a final neck sizing. Sounds like cheap insurance to me.

Hi, I’m curious, cartridges are specified to make a certain peak pressure, however I assume primer deformation is primarily relevant to the primer itself How would, for example, a 45acp cartridge relate to a 338lm in terms of primer deformation (low pressure specifications vs high pressure, 19kpsi vs 60kpsi)

Would like to here your toughs on cleaning and copper fouling equilibrium and if you use this concept? . Friend or faux. Interesting tubes on this from TiborasaurusRex.

you think a lot like me but I use car vax on my lapua brass =) nice video by the way. ..

Essentially !! You say essentially way too much :) ... Apart from that a very good explanation of how to reload .. Keep up the good work! I alway looks forward to your videos ! .....Keep those Yanks doing ELR shooting honest :) :)

Hello, I have a 300 Win Mag with a 1/10 twist Shilen 30" long, I've been handloading 210 VLDs with Retumbo at a low charge of 76.5 grains. Seating 0.005" away from lands, using the Federal match primers. Accuracy has been quite good, but I'm wondering if the chronographed velocity I got over 20 rounds at 3110ft/s (standard deviation of 17ft/s) is higher than it should be. Strangely enough, no primers are flat, there's a healthy radius, but some cases have a bit of friction on extraction. I neck size to 0.0015" tension, but I don't have a neck reamer, I think it might be causing the odd sticky case. If you have experience with this kind of load, I'd appreciate your input on whether or not they're going too fast for the powder charge or if there's a safety concern, or what neck reamer you'd recommend. Great video, I always learn a lot from your stuff. Thanks!

Thank you Mark. I haven’t done much shooting or any loading in the past 18 years or so, but your videos are stirring my interest again. I was a fussy loader, much like you, and it paid off in the short range shooting I did then. I bought a piece of property in remote southwest New Mexico 12 years ago that would have allowed me to shoot up to about 1500 yards on my own land, but grandchildren came along, and put a stop to that move. A friend of a friend has property here in Florida with a 1000 yard range, but I haven’t shot it yet. Been too busy beating myself up with fast motorcycles... When I did shoot, it was mostly .223 in a 24” AR platform, .308 in a DPMS LR-308, 6.5x55 in a Kimber modified M96, and 7.5x55 in an unmodified K31. I think it’s about time to start setting up again, and maybe the body will be finished healing by the time I’m ready to shoot again. There was a time when Friday night was reserved for loading ammo, and all day Saturday was for shooting. We just adopted three grandchildren last fall, so I have three to pass along what I can teach them now. I had a Barrett M82 that I bought while I was a dealer, but never shot it...it seemed like an awful waste to shoot at 1-200 yards. I sold it and bought another motorcycle.

what brand are the dies in the red box

Lapua does not even have 300 win mag brass on there web site where did you find your brass ?

Do you raise birds? Thanks

Mark, do you re-clean the brass after trimming or chamfering to remove any brass shavings from the case?

im surprised that you dont anneal your brass

instead of neck sizing it again why don't you just run thru a tumbler that way you get all the old lube off and get all the burrs out? that's what I do and I get good results that way..

Clickable Outline: 1:20 RCBS Chargemaster scale 2:10 RCBS Rock Chucker Single Stage Press and Straight Line Bullet Seating Dies 3:00 Neck Versus Full-Length Resizing 4:40 Powder Charges 5:30 Ladder Tests 7:10 Pressure Signs 10:05 Temperature Effects 10:50 VLD Chamfer Case Mouth 12:45 Neck Tension 13:45 Very Low Drag (VLD) Bullets 14:30 Testing Bullet Neck Tension 15:15 Smooth Bullet Seating 16:00 Neck Turning 17:00 Expander As Final Neck Sizing Step 19:15 Deburr/Chamfer Flash Hole Inside Case 22:45 Ladder Test/Chronograph 23:30 Quality Cases: Lapua, Peterson, Norma 24:30 Consistent Powders 24:50 Cleaning Cases 25:45 Neck Size Versus Full Length Size 26:30 Consistent Neck Tension 28:10 Finish Slightly Lubed Bullet/Neck 30:15 Summary

thanks m8 gives me something to chew on

Great information Mark! Hey, have you ever heard of cryogenically treating a barrel? They say it will releive any residual stresses left in the barrel after manufacturing and also give it a more martensitic structure so it be harder and will increase life. I have not done it yet but some friends have done it with some rifles that they can't get to group right and they were amazed at the results. Check it out. www.300below.com/ I would be interested in your thoughts on this. Jim