Hi Martin. Thank you very much for sharing this helpful information - especially the five years' worth of prints (with no peeling!). That was very informative and helpful. Thanks again, mate! There's just one little (yet very important) point in these two videos that needs rectification in order to further enhance the success of us all: Unfortunately, the Ghost White representative evidently didn't recognise that the image problems (jagged edges and related mess) were created before printing. They actually have nothing to do with temperature, nor toner, nor printing at all! They were created digitally before the image even went to the printer. The jagged edges and nearby messiness were caused by a combination of low-quality-JPEG compression artefacts in the Lion Bar image from the internet, followed by incomplete selection of the 'white' surrounds [not all of the pixels were exactly 100% (FFFFFF) white] by the magic wand tool in Photoshop. [Someone correctly commented about choosing an appropriate magic-wand threshold setting in the video preceding this one (kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rM9xl8KnprTLYIk.html) and many knowledgeable people have upvoted that correct comment.] In Photoshop, so-called 'marching ants' appear around pixels that are 'at least 50% selected'. Therefore, when using the magic wand tool (or 'Select Colour Range..' or similar), the 'marching ants' do not guarantee that all of their contained pixels are '100% selected'. Likewise, nor does an absence of marching ants guarantee that those pixels are '0% selected'. Unluckily, not all pixels in the 'white' surrounds of the Lion Bar image were 100% selected when 'delete' was pressed. Unfortunately, when using the magic wand tool, or selection by colour range, 'marching ants' cannot be relied upon. SOLUTIONS: THE BEST SOLUTION: A) Use a vector image. If that is not possible: B) Use an image that was never combined with a background colour and still has completely transparent surrounds; or C) Use an image without image-compression/file-compression artefacts. D) If the only option is a JPEG with compression artefacts, here are the SOLUTIONS: To SEE the problem: - On your computer monitor: Put your eyes near the bottom of your computer screen and look up at it from an angle. On an LCD screen, this often reveals (to our eyes) the dirty compression artefacts hidden in compressed white backgrounds and around image outlines. - In your Photoshop selection (made with the magic wand tool or similar): Option 1 (BEFORE you press 'delete'): If you've used the magic wand tool, save your selection, deselect it, then view that new 'alpha channel' (AKA 'saved selection') that you have just created (viewed in isolation, in greyscale). You will then clearly see any jagged outlines or other partially selected pixels that were hard to see against the chequered backdrop. Option 2 (if you ALREADY pressed 'delete'): Make a new layer and fill it with a colour. Put it below your newly 'deep-etched'(i.e. 'digitally weeded' / 'transparent-surrounded') image. Any jagged outlines or other partially selected pixels that were hard to see against the chequered backdrop will now be much more easily visible. To FIX the problem: If Option 1 (above) was used: Then delete the channel and fix your selection by (at least) increasing the 'threshold' of your magic wand before selecting; OR: Don't delete the channel and instead adjust the brightness & contrast OF THE CHANNEL to 'crisp up' the saved selection, then load that selection and proceed with deleting the surrounds. If Option 2 (above) was used: If mess is present, go back in your 'history' prior to deletion and fix your selection; OR (not recommended): 'Load Selection...'> '[That] Layer Transparency'> 'OK', then 'Save Selection'> 'OK' and proceed as with Option 1 (above). I know you're busy, but if you find time, please reshoot these two videos using a crisp vector image from Illustrator (just draw a few coloured rectangles or something), [...and always remember to insert the white toner cartridge BEFORE pressing 'print'. Ha ha. 😉 Cheers, brutha.] Thanks again for showing us the procedures, results and longevity after washing. That is really valuable information for us all to see.

Love watching your tutorials. Great job!

Got your training series a while back, and I love your videos, keep up the great work Martin!

Gilden loses colour pretty fast but I do use fabric softener. Your blues are still bright.

I'm no expert but you could rasterize the larger images which would give you a softer hand as well as prolong the durability

Great video. Having just started printing after following your training DVD. I gotta say I love the inkjet system. Great review on Ghost white system but I think i will be sticking with my inkjet.

A great practical review! Well done!

I purchased the course that Martin offers on Udemy so that I can watch the lessons on my iPad when I am away from home. Martin's course is very well laid out and easy to understand. I am very happy!

Outstanding video, very helpful 👏

Yes, Ghost White Toner just does not give the same colour vibrancy as an inkjet transfer. The toner & Forever Transfer Papers are just way too expensive to make any $. Not to mention all the a/b paper antics you cross your fingers will go 100% right & not go to waste. We use it very rarely only for small logos or designs that have intricate elements that cannot be vynil or contour cut. There is no point using GWT if you can't make reasonable profit with it.

What Dye Sub Inkjet transfer papers do you recommend? the ones you used on the superman shirts?

Hi Martin, Im waiting for my silhouette 3 to come. Ive never used anything like this before. Im not going to run before i can walk. Your the only one i can find in the uk. Ive watched loads of videos on the subject. It looks so complicated, im begining to wonder if ive made a mistake in buying it. x

Thank u for the

Your videos help so much, thanks!! How do the laserjet transfers hold up after a lot of washes? I'm looking to use the ghost white toner for detailed white graphics on black shirts. These designs have no color in them. I don't want to order minimums of plastisol transfers, and the designs are way too intricate for HTV... I'm thinking this might be the best solution, but I don't want the designs to be ruined after washing...

Hi Martin, great video sir. Just wondered with regards to the white toner tutorial, do you use a rip software with the hp printer and if so which one is it so I can go and buy a copy as my printer didn’t come with a version Thanks Steve

Hope you're OK ,miss your video's

Which papers would you suggest for oki c711wt printer? Just getting started and would like to get advice from a professional if possible. Thank you and please continue to teach us new guys the way

good video Martin

Why not just knockout the tshirt color to get rid of the hard feel to a softer feel?

What specific dark transfer sheets do you use?

Just bought a galaxy clam heat press with slide out bottom platen, do you or any viewers know if the sheet/ cover at the bottom should Stay on with the rubber mat during use? finding your videos really useful so thanks for the great content.

Hi Martin I just want to ask where do you get your dark transfer sheets for inkjet printers? The reason i ask is because the transfer sheets I get get faded really fast.

Thank you 🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏🙏

Nice video. Help me out, can you print white on black garment with an inkjet printer?

where are you getting the ghost white toner for this model?

You showed the lion bar print that’s ghost white but the jd style print that’s forever you did a previous video saying it was forever ? What ink jet paper do you use

Hi Sir. Can i also use dark transfer paper in an umbrella? Or is it only applicable in cotton shirt? Many thanks...

Hi martin, i have an epson 1500w printer with a c.i.s but i just can't get the colours right for heat transfer. Is there a profile that you know of that works best for this printer ? Cheers mate

Hi could you tell me have you printed any photos eg face or family photo if yes could you show it for us please if not possible could you tell us why

Amazing

What inkjet paper you use? What's the name

I really like this video! I have always thought of ink jet transfers as having very muted colors, so I have avoided them. Will you show us a print of the same lion that you did with the Forever papers, but done with your inkjet papers done on the same color t-shirt, so we can see the difference?

Martin can you tell me the type of Inkjet transfer paper you use. Thank you.

hello.... what kind of ink was used in the ink jet printer ? is this sublimation ?

Hi Martin, ive just purchased and started your t shirt printing tutorials, i was wondering if i may contact you with some questions if i may

Thank you martin

I have a question if I buy the DVD does it show me how to use the silloute Cameo 3 ???

Which is cheaper screen print or sublimation

Febric quality? Cotton or poly

Hi Martin iam neally there just was thinking of getting sawgrass 400 as just starting off it may not be use alot or would you recommended something different

Just to long and to expensive just to maybe do certain designs that one can't do with vinyl or dark transfer papers. Just avoid those designs and keep making money. Your superman prints should put this one to bed ..That my take

What is the name of your t shirt transfer paper

Hey bro you I hope all is well

Where is a link to purchase your training DVD?

I don't know how you get away with using transfer paper for commercial use. Transfer paper is not good enough to charge money for

Great videos Martin. printer related question... cant find the model of printer 'M252DW' but what im finding is a 'M254DW' would it be a updated version of the M252DW would you know.

Do you recommend me to use EPSON EcoTank ITS L3050 ?

Thank you for these videos!! I have a few questions: 1. Are the CYMK toners stock/normal, or are they special Ghost toners/sublime? 2. Have you tried using other laser paper with the ghost white system? For example, if its all "normal" toner, then shouldn't they work just the same on other (perhaps these www.proworldinc.com/heat-transfer-paper/color-laser-transfer-papers/875-imageclip-laser-paper-lights.html) ? In my mind - if toner is toner - then we could use more "tried and true" (and MUCH cheaper) laser paper and transfer paper with this printer, following the same two step process. Thoughts? Thanks!

Hi Martin I have sent you an email to tshirtcave - is that the correct email? Many thanks

Forget the ghost white printing if you're looking to sell your creations. The ghosting around the printed image recurs time and time again dispite so call ambient temperatures. Washability overall is poor especially if washed with other clothing items. Signs of eroded images after 1 wash! One colour 'Forever' Metallic transfers have good washability and are very pleasing. 'Forever' full colour 2 step process using CMYK is not good if you are going to sell your creations. Again washability is poor even after so called 'sealing' with silicone paper. Back to ghost White... no good and at best inconsistent. Save your money.

Unsubscribed from all your channels now. Too long waiting for new videos on this one. Bye.