There’s really nothing to it. Just use the box pins to drag a selection of verts to freeze and use them to literally tie the knot. So I had a couple where it makes contact with the back and one at each end, then I grabbed the pins at the ends and used them to tie the first knot, then I pinned the knot and tied the second. It’s worth noting that while easy in theory, it can be frustratingly hard in practice. The fabric will clip through itself if you apply too much pressure, so you need to be gentle and play with the friction. I’ve found that the best way to do it is to tie the knot using very thin fabric and when you get it how you want crank up the friction and the thickness.

Sounds like density. Switch it to between 8 and 12 and see how it looks. If there’s still some buckling and it’s at a seam you probably need to alter the pattern so it fits better.

Use the multi map exporter in zbrush to export the normals and displacement. Even if you’re baking in marmoset or substance there’s ways to go about it to make it work with the folds, but for this workflow I’d be using multi map exporter.

Yeah, although the workflow would really be identical. Which part would you think is different?

@@conbry6388 I am struggling with curves like on sleeves, around armpits, collar of shirt etc. Not sure if you are still updating about this but would be nice to see.

The extrusion creates additional UVs in the thickness section, which are stacked. Personally I always just do a proper unwrap of the whole garment to suit my purposes, this is just a quick and dirty thing to demonstrate the method. If you want good UVs on the thickness part without unwrapping all the shells again and maintaining your layout (like if you need to keep them square as in this example) just select those UV points alone and relax them.

Don’t use MD to make armor, the best workflow for that is zbrush. The issue you’re having does occur in this workflow if you’re doing a lot of thickness because when you extrude the faces you’re creating new faces at the edges. You can get away with it for thin fabrics, but for thicker stuff you’ll need to cut and unfold the UVs properly.

Oh yeah it’s a nightmare. Try doing it with the fabric as thin as possible and with relatively low friction but not so low that it comes loose all the time. Use box pins liberally. Once you’ve got a decent knot turn the thickness and friction way up.

Are you definitely following it to the letter? Selecting each mesh in the correct order etc?

@@conbry6388 I am going to try it again and see what happens.

Not sure if you ever figured out the issue. But it's been a year so I'm assuming you did. But, If anyone else runs into this problem, your UVs might be overlapping. Fix that and your issue should go away.

From MD? You still need to weld the verts, add thickness, and address the UVs in the editor

@@conbry6388 yes from MD but your workflow still the fastest and the best i just tried it right now with zremesh we can weld it with the topology tool by polygroup for not having the seams but it delete the Uvs so…🤷‍♂️ thank you for the tutorial mate

I havent a clue.. its the same thing as hes foing here...

You need to be very careful that all the steps are followed exactly. If things aren’t working it might be simpler to reimport the meshes and start again. Make sure you copy my transfer attributes settings for each step when transferring UV and vertex position.

I work in the AAA games industry now and simply have no time. I do hope to do more of these in the future but personal portfolio projects take priority in my free time between work.

@@conbry6388 Great video Cobry ;) TY. Would like to know if you have a solution to make the step of retopology but maintaining the simulation/animation? Thank you in advance