That is very pleasing to hear, it is one of my channels goals 🍻🍻🍻

+Arnold Ovid Thanks alot Arnold, thats very good to hear :)

Great :)

+Hans Winkels Thank you :)

Great to hear :) Thank you, more coming soon!

Thanks Noel, glad it was helpful! :)

Thanks Craig. Thats the internet for you :p

+w fleming Thanks :) Much appreciated, glad you liked it :)

Thanks Dan, great to hear :)

Cheers Greg, great to hear 🍻🍻🍻

+inspirality Great to hear :)

+Peter Scandlyn Awesome to hear Peter! More coming soon!

Great, glad you found it useful. I have a set of guides that I feel you would find useful here:- kzfaq.info/sun/PLeY07JqsrXM_biHp7Y3xIB7TnAY6Ru7pE&si=ResJ9aT6_nnvzw-a

Thank you, I really appreciate your feedback. Hundreds more videos on my channel and new ones added every week :)

Great, thank you. Glad it was helpful!

Great, thanks for the feedback :)

+Magnus Lindström tack så mycket :)

+Beer By The Numbers Awesome, thank you :)

+Andrew du Toit Glad you enjoyed it :)

Great to hear, much appreciated 🍻🍻🍻

+Davide Mangili Thats great to hear, thank you :)

+Beardy Brews Awesome, thanks for the feedback :)

Cheers Tim 🍻🍻🍻

+spectratos Thank you :) Glad you enjoyed it, plenty more on the channel :)

+Andreas Andersson Carlgren Thank you :) Glad you enjoyed it, plenty more on the channel :)

Many thanks Allan :)

🍻🍻🍻

Thanks Bob :)

David take note - Daniel would like reciprocation, of course .... purely to further his learning...:-)

+Daniel Smith Nice to know but not needed, I am swimming in beer here!

Thank you, I am glad that you found it useful 🍻

+Andrew Kite Thanks for the feedback :)

Thanks Paul, I am glad that you found it useful

Thank you :)

Great to hear. Plenty more like this on my channel 🍻

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Yes. I've been watching. Thanks.

🍻🍻🍻

Thats fantastic to hear :)

Great. The floor malted is a great way to go for flavour. I am not so sold on decoction mashing these days though.

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I can understand why it is not necessary with modern malts, but I feel I need to travel that road, at least once, on my brewing journey. 🍻

Oh for sure you must try it, even if its just once 🍻

Haha, the issue really is that I am not a big fan of lagers at all, some exceptions of course but in the main im an ales guy. I guess that comes through pretty loud when you look at what I am sharing video wise :)

David Heath LOL it just struck me funny.. Great video.. I'm definitely an ale man myself!! 👍🍻

haha, me 2 I am strictly an ale guy, ask me what happens when I make a lager and ill point you to a picture of my lager that went horribly wrong and say this is why I dont make lagers. I am a menace when it comes to lagers. www.beersmith.com/forum/index.php/topic,16964.msg63882.html#msg63882

+chris kennedy haha

Thank you, this is very good to hear :) I believe John Palmer covers this well in his how to brew book, which is really a must read I would say.

@@DavidHeathHomebrew ordering this blindly right away - thanks!

Its the one must read as I see it for homebrewers

@@DavidHeathHomebrew so I've gone through the first couple of chapters and thumbed through the rest - I understand why you would call it "the one must read for homebrewers". Incredibly impressive compendium of knowledge, thanks again for the recommendation. I've also gotten myself a copy of Chris White's "Yeast" and am completely blown away by it. Of course you know it - but I'm leaving it here for others to maybe find it. :)

Great, yes it is a great book.

Thank you, much appreciated :) Yes no problem there. It is a profile for balance.

Thanks John. No problem. Usually you would reach 75 and then mash like this for 10 minutes for mash out. After that do your sparge. This 10 min step will help your sparge :)

Thanks, I am glad that you are enjoying them :) I usually mash out and sparge at 75C.

Hi Maarten, Great to hear :) The top plate for the G40 is very much optional. It is mostly there for holding larger grainbills in place. So really just relevant if you are maxing out the grain basket capacity.

I’ve experienced it once, with a large triple grainbill. The grains were floating through the two open holes on the top side of the basket. That was annoying and I’ve hacked by blocking the holes it with two small rubber hoses. But far from convenient. I’ve noticed a big hole in the middle of the top plate (on a picture). Which means the grains will still go through. Right?

That I assume is the old top plate. The new one has no middle hole.

Hi Norman. It really depends on which version you are using. If its the US version then due to the power limitations then I would heat higher than mash in temps in due to the time it takes. If you are on a 220-240v system then there is less to worry about. I live in Norway with 220v and I just shoot for the desired temp. It drops a little after adding my grain but within a little time its back where it should be. In terms of the boil I wait until the unit tells me I have hit the boil (100 deg c) I then clear the protein head (I show this in most brew videos) and as long as I am at 100 still I start the timer. Homebrew is not an exact science but I do what I can :)

Glad you found it useful :) 30 mins at each of the two temperatures for an hour in total.

+Ross A Cairns Yes thats a time to use it, though a small amount of rice hulls will work wonders :)

How much rice hulls would you say is sufficient for a Wheat bier with the following Grain Bill? 3,47 Kg pilsner malt 3,47 Kg Wheat malt 200 grams Red Ale Malt(melanoid malt)

Cykelsnubben Cykelsnubben you shouldn't need much as the wheat is under 50% of the grain bill.

+Cykelsnubben Cykelsnubben I wouldnt use any as you are under 60% which is really the start of the point that it becomes an issue. I am working on a video to do with this right now actually :)

Thank you. The most common is 65C for 1hr and 75C for 10 mins.

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David 👍🍺

:)

Haha :)

+ltcomstar Not that Ive been told about, no. I don’t see the need, upgrades are always things that can be added on alot like the filter and connect for example :)

Thanks

Grandfather is great and all but I own a robobrew, same build quality for half the cost, the only difference is that it lacks bluetooth but why the fuck should I care about a recipe creator and what not.... I can do that on beer smith so im not going to pay more for nothing better.

+chris kennedy I guess its more about the controller being smart than anything else but its all about choices. You can use my recipes and advice the same way with other systems for the most part.

Not an issue as such, just that there will be little to gain

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks David!

🍺🍺🍺

Usually the process is to change the temperature on the brewing system after the 60 minutes step. Wait until the temperature is reached and then start counting the 10 minutes. After this you are ready for the next step which is usually going to be to add Sparge water of a similar temperature to your second step. Hope this helps :)

@@DavidHeathHomebrew this little bit of advice has answered a big question for me, thanks!

Great to hear :)

Yes, though there are various other methods for clarity also. Check this out:- kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rt2kfddzptCZpY0.html

Yes, no problem.

Hi Norman, Ive not brewed a clone of this beer before, so its impossible to advise fully. Volumes wise check out this video:- kzfaq.info/get/bejne/rKiad5RjmdDPeaM.html

Hi Gary, great to hear. If you start your mash at 72 then you will very quickly denature your key enzyme. Reducing the temperature will not have further effect. High mash in steps are usually just used for beers where you want much sugars left behind to add body or sweetness. Stouts are the usual style for this.

thanks for the reply fella that probably explains why my beers have been turning out very sweet?@@DavidHeathHomebrew

@garyballared2077 Yes, it would have that effect.

It will not do any harm if you stir during the mash, even if you have recirculation.

No problem at all. Yes keep the pump on throughout. Boil heating wise its fine for this to start while you sparge. It saves time :)

David Heath thanks for the clearification :-)!

This ratio will vary but I use the calculation of 3L of water to 1kg of grain.

I would be concerned on the wear on the pump. Seems to me this is an easy way to shorten the life of it.

Thanks for replying so quickly. I guess you're right David, I hadn't thought about that point. Like many, I'm just trying to find a way to shave a bit of time off my brew day. all the best.

No problem John :)

Thank you. I would go 62//68/75. Be sure to back this up with a middle attenuating yeast.

​@@DavidHeathHomebrew We are currently using the White Labs WLP500 for our Tripel with an Attenuation of 75-80% and do not know exactly under which category this falls. We are a bit confused with low / middle / high Attenuation yeast. Is there a standard for this? The internet often shows different standards.

Yes, the Internet is certainly not united on this and many other things. Attenuation for beer yeast is generally going to be between 65-85%. Low is around 65-70%. High is 80-85%, so middle is at 75%. With various Belgian styles inverted sugar is often used which will leave unfermtable sugars behind. Also the bitterness added via hops is usually low. So all this put together leads to a beer that tastes sweeter. Naturally the combination of all 3 gives the sweetest result but for many 2 out of 3 is enough.

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Thanks for your help, we are one step closer to our perfect Triple ;-)

I have a full guide to the Tripel (one of my favourites ) coming on Sunday. I hope you find this interesting. There are many more pointers there.

I would suggest mash in being the longest time. Mash out can come later. The idea being you maximise effeciency.

Ok, that's pretty much what I was thinking. So maybe 6 hrs, 2 hrs and 15 minutes sound good for the 3 temps?

@noelhendricksonhome7305 You mash out temp can just be ten minutes. There is no value in much longer.

yes, I meant to say 10 min for mash out. Just to confirm, going with 2 hrs at 143 and 6 hrs or something similar proportionally at 154 should work well.@@DavidHeathHomebrew

Ok great 🍻🍻🍻

You could use the old traditional “Hochkurz step mash” 1) 144°F/62°C - 30 mins 2) 158°F/70°C - 30 mins 3) 170°F/77°F - 10 mins. Hope this helps :)

@@DavidHeathHomebrew going to give it a whirl , thanks David

Hi, yes. Each step has its own time but heat up times are not included.

@@DavidHeathHomebrew excellent, thanks

:)

Its pretty old school these days. There are various other ways to drop a beer bright. A protein rest will not hurt but I do not see that it would be needed.

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Kinda what I thought too!! Thank you for your continued help!!

Cheers 🍻🍻🍻😎😎😎

Its a massive topic for sure. This gives a grounding in the basics. Should be enough for homebrew though.

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Oh don't et me wrong, I definitely love the information and I am very much appreciative of your sharing it, My problem i that now i have even more stuff to take into consideration... I moved from Extract to All-Grain a while back (just following other peoples recipes), and now I'm malting my own grains and making my own decisions, and the rabbit hole is getting deeper and deeper... when does it stop. I liked it more when I was just following other peoples recipes (except my beer is better now that I'm making my own recipes).

Great but yes I see your point. I would suggest not over thinking it at this point. Just get used to the process and then look further in :)

David Heath Homebrew hey thanks for the kind advice. I’m really digging brewing with grain i’ve malted, roasted, and milled myself. And in a couple of months I will have my own home-grown barley to use as well. Can’t wait.

David Heath Homebrew hey one more question, should i expect lower efficiency with my own malt? Because i got quite low efficiency yesterday compared to bought malt. What should properties should i be looking for in grain to make sure i have a good grain for malting and brewing? I’ve been using stockfeed barley, because it’s readily available and very cheap.

Hi Scott, how are you measuring this and with what type of device? Do the beers taste that dry?

@@DavidHeathHomebrew Hey, David! I'm doing BIAB, with an Anvil kettle. I use the kettle thermometer, which I've calibrated and recently started using a thermoworks probe thermometer to insert into the mash. I have noticed that the temperatures can be different in the two locations (kettle thermometer is lower than probe in mash), so I think the one in the mash would be the one to go by? I do stir every 15 minutes and if I need to add heat. The beers generally taste good and I guess how intended (since I have no way to compare to yours), with the exception of the NEIPA style. These are the beers where I notice the particular dryness and lack of body/"juiciness". Most recently, my goal for mash temp was 152; maybe I need to go higher? I've become really frustrated and determined to conquer it, so I just ordered stuff you recommended for small batch/trial sizes in an effort to discover and correct my mistake(s). My thought is if it is temp (likely?), the sous vide stick will immediately identify that problem. Any recommendations or thoughts are appreciated. Enjoy your trip to the states!

Thanks Scott, my flight out is early tomorrow morning. In regards to temp by location in the mash, this is normal. The new Brewzilla GEN 4 units address this with a couple of optional extras but I would be surprised if it is causing this. How are you measuring the gravity instrument wise? Are you using a hydrometer or refractometer?

@@DavidHeathHomebrew I have used both for OG and only a hydrometer for FG. Even if the numbers would be wrong, the proof is in the taste and thinness of the beer. Any thoughts?

My guess would be wild yeast. Not much you can do about either sadly.

Haha, thats never been my way :)