I recently had my clutch and rear main seal replaced on my '91 Miata. During some recent service elsewhere, I was told that my flywheel bolts had not had sealant applied to their threads, and there was engine oil leaking through. I didn't see that mentioned in your video, but I have seen it mentioned in other Miata forums. I'd like to hear your thoughts on this, please? Thanks!

Great video! I like how clearly you show everything you're doing as it's going on and the helpful voice over work. I just went through this same maintenance about week ago. Unfortunately I didn't have access to a lift or a shop, so I wound up doing the work mostly by myself in an underground parking lot. Here's a long (sorry) list of things I learned the hard way while doing this job and I haven't seen mentioned in too many guides. Hopefully they can save somebody from a headache: 1) You don't have to remove the entire exhaust line. You can get away with only removing the cat and exhaust manifold / downpipe. The driveshaft can be squeezed by the rest of the exhaust system with it in place. 2) If your rear PPF bolts are stuck in the diff housing (very common), you don't strictly have to remove them. The PPF has just enough flex to allow you to remove the transmission with all the other bolts out. It's a bit trickier to drop the transmission this way, but it can be done, and it's better than stripping out or breaking the rear PPF bolts. 3) When torqueing the flywheel bolts, you can do this without another person by jamming a cheater bar into the flywheel teeth and having the bar push into the frame as you use the wrench. 4) The bullet connectors don't have polarity. You don't have to mark them. Neither does the other set of connectors on top of the transmission. 5) You don't have to remove the starter motor. You can take its bolts out of the bell housing without pulling it out of place. 6) You really, really want to have a buddy for the part when you drop the transmission and especially when you lift it back in. At the very least, they need to be able to manipulate the jack underneath the bell housing and tilt the motor foreword while you remove and re-insert the transmission under the car. You need to be strong enough to lift 75 pounds over your head at a weird angle for extended periods of time if you want to drop and raise the transmission this way. 7) To help support the tail, tie a rope around it and feed it into the cabin. Then tie the other end around a 2X4 or cheater bar. That'll keep the tail from dropping down fully until you're ready. When you are, have your buddy untie the rope or remove the bar / wood. 8) It's uncommon but very possible for the pilot bearing to seize in place when you try to pull the transmission, and for it to get stuck partially pulled out. If this happens, you'll need to pull it out with substantially more force than usual. If you have a buddy and two pry bars, you can both wedge on either side of the bell housing. If you have disc brake spreaders (the C-clamp type) and 1/4 inch of clearance, you can wedge one of those on either side of the housing and slowly spread them open until you're clear of the bearing. Or you can just keep pulling on it and hope for the best. You should only be this rough taking the transmission out (if you're replacing the clutch) not then you're putting it back in, or you could damage the pilot bearing. 9) If the pilot bearing won't "thunck" into place while you put the transmission back in, have a buddy slowly tilt the engine back and forth on its mounts in a rocking motion while you gently push the transmission forward towards the engine. 10) Consider ordering a couple replacement bell housing bolts in advance, in case you strip them while taking them out. With the weird angles you'll be using getting to them, they aren't hard to mess up. 11) If you're draining and refilling the transmission fluid, loosen the drain plug first. Also buy a set of aluminum crush washers in advance. The drain bolt is 24mm. The fill bolt is a weird square type that I was luckily able to remove with a crescent wrench. It's notorious for rounding off, so be careful with it!

Looking to do most of this to my NB after this autocross season. Cool to see the overview, thanks!

Thank you for making videos like this. I'll be needing to do a clutch job on my NB before long

Happy to see another Miata video :) Keep ‘em coming my friend!

I absolutly love your content man im not trynna be a sucker but since i own my miata your vids have been helpful keep going 🤘

Great video this week, loved the voiceover!

Miata content let’s go!

Great video! When bleeding the clutch you shouldn’t keep pumping the pedal while the bleeder is open. It’s just going to suck in more air unless your using some sort of bleeder with a one way check valve

Thank you paisano , Good job

Bruh must be nice to have a shop with lifts. I need to get my entire transmission replaced. It started grinding when getting go of the clutch when in 1st and reverse gear.

That's happening to me now... After 150'000 miles: OK, can't complain.

Did this under jackstands at my parents house.

This is awesome!

Great vid. My clutch is nearing its end. I think i dont do that myself. Replacing the cas O ring is easy But putting the sensor back was a real pain. I cheated by removing the back plate of the sensor. How many hours for the clutch repair? Greetings from the Netherlands

I don’t even own a miata but enjoyed the video

We need more videos

I’m enjoying your videos…☑️

Thanks for the videos Alex! Quick question what do you mean by timing? When it comes to changing the o ring

Enjoying the content. I recently rebuilt engine and replaced clutch with all associated bearings, but having concerns. It shifts great but when decelerating at low speeds under pressure I hear a clanking noise. Also hear a subtle 'swoosh' when shifting high rpm primarily in 2nd/3rd gear. You have any suggestions on the cause?

On the flywheel, the bearing in the middle, is it supposed to be flat on with the side that the screws are? So it's going to be looking about 2mm over the other side? Thanks!

My 1990 recently had a sudden loss of power. Previously there were times car wouldn’t start, had to push start it. Friend said that might be flywheel. Might the flywheel and clutch be causing a loss of power?

the lead singer of the plain white Ts has a KZfaq channel

Is that a ACT flywheel? If so would it fit on a 1.6?

Would it have been easier to remove the engine.