Thank you for the kind words, sir! And I am humbled by your experience, because YOU are a true woodworker/artisan! A little insight on CNCing. There is a fair amount of computer work involved with setting up projects to cut on a CNC. And I am by no means suggesting that you aren't computer savvy as you very well might be, but I only mention it because I have known people who are NOT computer savvy, to buy a CNC router to make stuff, and they hit a brick wall because of the time involved on a computer on the front end of it all, and then they feel as if they had wasted their money. Most people think a CNC machine is like a Hewlett Packard printer that you take out of the box and hit 'CUT' and shazam! a carving appears, but sadly it isn't like that. But if you do possess a techy side, combined with your lifelong experience, then you'll easily turn our projects that would make mine look like kid stuff! Good luck and thank you for watching!

I'm a retired craftsman too. It's been a long road my friend. There is one thing that feels odd and a little sad. When I need to replace or buy a tool now. I had always tried to buy the tool that will last 40 years. I no longer do that. It's Jesus time : ).

@@scott31312. All you classy “experienced” gents, it sure is enjoyable to read your stories. Mr Scott31312, My grandpa used to jokingly say, “At my age, I don’t buy green bananas”. Ha! (I sure miss that great man) I’m just now entering this hobby field, and I’m trying to absorb as much as I can. This is gonna be a long road, but I excited (and pensive) to see if I can translate all the ideas in my noodle into enjoyable pieces…. Hope hope hope. Kind regards.

Thanks for all your help as well, buddy. And thank you for watching!!

Thank you for watching and for the sub!

I have heard from other operators who have enlightened me on how they had to program every move of a CNC before the advent of the CAM software we use now. My hat is off to you!!! Thank you for watching!

He certainly read my mind 😊 An excellent conception. And implementation Exemplary!

I sincerely plan to touch on all of these things in a future video. Thank you for watching!

There is a toolpath that you can create for the rotary to spin constantly throughout the entire operation. It involves using one of the rotary gadgets in vectric. I hope to do a video on that later. Regarding the return to origin... I'm speaking of the user input that can be assigned to a button like I have in the video. There currently isn't anyway of assigning that particular function to a programmable user input in Masso.🙂

Since making this video, I've more or less perfected how I cut these out. I've learned a ton over the past few months. I still carve out the chess piece using a tapered bit, but now I include a final tool path that cuts the finished chess piece from the blank by using a straight end mill. This not only separates the chess piece from the blank but it also flattens the bottom of the chess piece by cutting out the taper. I plan on posting a video of the making of the chess set, hopefully in the next week or so. Stay tuned! 😉 Thank you so much for watching!

Thanks for the reply. I’ll be waiting for the video update

Thank you! I use 50% distilled water/50% RV antifreeze. Thank you for watching!

Thank you! The Elite Series Onefinity with the MASSO controller is Rotary Axis capable very easily. It's the MASSO controller that makes it possible. If you have the Onefinity controller, not so much. I have read about hacks being done to the Onefinity controller, like disconnecting the Y axis steppers and plugging it into a Rotary Stepper, but I don't think it's very easy to do. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!

I responded to your previous comment.

Yes, I have the 3Nm steppers on all axis. No, I didn't buy the 3Nm steppers due to the complaints of the smaller steppers. In fact, when I ordered the MASSO system from MASSO, I had not heard of the problems with those steppers, and had only heard of them right about the time that I was making this video. MASSO doesn't even sell the steppers that come with the Elite machine, the smallest stepper that MASSO offers (2Nm) is still more powerful than the Elite steppers. Between you and me, I believe that the Elite steppers are a 3rd party stepper that was outsourced just for the Onefinity machines and MASSO put their brand on it. But to answer your question, MASSO offers 2 steppers. 2Nm and 3Nm. The 3Nm is only $12 more than the 2Nm, so I just said, "What the heck?!", and ordered the 3Nm. They might be overkill for what I do, but I have no regrets. They have performed flawlessly. Thank you for watching!!

I had it custom made. There are several like it on Etsy but none with the specs that I wanted so I drew up a model on Fusion and sent it to one of those online machine shops. This is after I tried to make my own on my machine. I got close, but I discovered fairly quickly that cutting wood versus cutting aluminum is 2 different animals. I have no ambitions of working with aluminum and I figured that money I would spend just learning to cut aluminum I could just get it made professionally. And yes, In my opinion setting XY center using a center probing method is more accurate and faster! I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!!

I used the stepper that came with the rotary. I wanted to put a closed loop on it, but they are much longer and wouldn't fit without some major surgery on the rotary frame. But I've come to realize that the stepper that comes with it is more than adequate. Thank you for watching!!

@@MandSWoodworks One other question - do you happen to have the vectric or digital file you used to create the wasteboard holes? I can't tell from the video if that's 3/4" PVC dogs, but I'm trying to replicate your design from watching the video. Thanks.

I hope that I'm understanding your question correctly and that I'm giving you the answer you're looking for. A tool change is initiated in a rotary tool path no differently than any other type of tool path and would greatly depend on the post processor that you use in your CAM software. With that, I'm going to assume you have the Masso controller so I'll comment on the steps that happen when a tool change is initiated. Let's say that you've created a clearing/roughing tool path using a 1/4" end mill and then a finishing tool path using a tapered ball nose. You've homed the machine in the beginning with the end mill and your zero origins are set. You've completed the roughing tool path and now you've loaded the finishing tool path and start it. Once you hit START, here is what should happen if your machine is setup correctly: 1. The spindle will move to coordinates you've previously setup in the controller, and then it'll stop, allowing you to change the bit from the end mill to the ball nose. 2. Once the ball nose is loaded you hit START again and then the spindle moves to the coordinates where your tool setter is located. The Z will drop slowly until it touches the probe block. This is where the length compensation occurs. 3. The spindle will move back to the zero origins for XY and then begin cutting again. You only have to probe for zero 1 time, before the first tool path is ever ran. And that's done using a separate probe. Every tool change after that will ALWAYS touch off on the tool setter to set the length compensation. Did that answer your question?

@@MandSWoodworks Thanks again! You did. Now I'll have to try it (I'll test it without. a stock in place - oh and I have to do a quick run to princess auto for a 0.5" rod to "find" my A axis center..) . My Post is Mach3 and I can instruct it on tool change to go where the plate is located and wait for the change. REally appreciate it, I'll reply with how it works

The vertical surface comes in handy for doing joinery. If you were to buy a dovetail bit for the CNC, you could do dovetail miters for furniture, boxes, etc. I have a video on my channel where I built a bassinet for my first grand kid and I used it quite a bit. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks ahhhh, understood! And the reason your drop-in setup is necessary is because the clearance isn't sufficient on the bed to do that kind of piece. Now I'm with you. Thanks, brother. Looking forward to seeing more of your work!

It doesn't realize when a bit is broken or damaged. You, the operator have to keep a watchful eye on such things 🙂

@@MandSWoodworks thank you. I always wondered why people said we shouldn't leave the CNC alone. Just a follow up question, how dangerous are the flying bit pieces when they get broken? How do we locate them?

By "Vertical Router", I am assuming that you are talking about a VFD and spindle? If so, each brand of VFD has different setup parameters so it would be difficult to give you a specific answer to your question. Masso does a good job of explaining how to connect a VFD/Spindle to the controller. Check out this KZfaq video. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/d-B_grxquq6xkac.html I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!

​@@MandSWoodworks thanks for your reply. How to connect or wire the Rotary 4th Axis to my Onefinity controller? I have my onefinity elite and Rotary 4th Axis. I've searched most of the documents but to clear steps explaining how to connect.

Correct. With the button you're using to initiate it wired between them. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks thank you. Love your videos.

I just had a look at the Amazon page. Apparently they've changed the listing since I bought them. Check the SpeTool website. They have that set listed with the angles of each bit. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks Got it, thanks!

Sorry, no I don't. There isn't anything special about wiring up the rotary. It's no different than wiring up any stepper motor for any of the other axis. And again, no. It isn't plug and play unfortunately. But it isn't that difficult. If you can wire up a home stereo, you can do this! Thank you for watching!!

Thank you! There is a link in the description of the video to the rotary I have. No, there truly isn't a need for a homing switch on the rotary unless you have a project where multiple operations are required. For example, you make a rotary cut, then remove the piece, make a cut on a new work piece, then replace the first work piece on the rotary to make a different cut. As long as you don't remove the work piece and/or move the rotary chuck, it will hold the position until you are finished. Thank you for watching!

Have to ask… rotary and tailstock are mounted on Thomson rods? What did you do so the tailstock is aligned with the center of the rotary? Thank you!

No, not rods. I built the frame from 20mm extruded aluminum and that is what the chuck and tail stock are mounted to. The MDF insert acts as a rail guide to keep the chuck and tail stock aligned. It's mentioned here- 9:00

Thank you for the compliments! In reality, mounting your rotary axis on the X or Y axis will work fine either way. But I do have an opinion on which axis is better for it, and I choose the X axis. The reason being is that when you line your rotary to the X axis, the Y axis will always remain static during the cut. On most CNC machines, the X axis only has one stepper that moves the gantry because it is much lighter and the Y axis has 2 steppers that move the gantry because it is much heavier. If you mount your rotary on the Y axis, then the X axis remains static and the Y axis has to move back and forth to make the cut. Because it is heavier, and relies on 2 separate steppers to move and keep it in place, if your steppers aren't perfectly aligned with each other, and/or the machine isn't incredibly rigid you open up an opportunity for inaccuracies. Now, it can be argued that the same thing can happen on the X axis, and I agree that it could, but it's a far less chance than it would be with the Y axis. I hope that this helps. Thank you for watching!!

@@MandSWoodworks Thank you so much for the quick reply! Makes sense to me now. I'm going to go with the X axis for rotary and vertical insert access. Now I just need to decide if I want t-track and dog holes? Or just dog holes? With the rotary you purchased off amazon, Its good to see that you can use the stepper motor that came with it? Do you know why so many others talk about swaping out the stepper for one of the Masso steppers? Is there a reason they do that? Does a closed loop stepper have any advantage over this stock motor for a rotary? Thanks Again!

@@KZ-1155 I've tried t-track and it works great, but like I mentioned in the video, there is more to maintain when you add variables to your waste board. It all depends on how much trouble you're willing to go through. I just wanted to point out that you can still have a method to hold down anything you want that was inexpensive and easy to maintain over the other options. No, I think changing out the stock stepper on the rotary to closed loop is overkill. The only benefit of closed loop is that it warns you if you skip steps. That is indeed a benefit on the gantry steppers because they can see high loads. But unless you plan to mill metal on your CNC, the stock rotary stepper is more than enough. I've used the stock stepper on my rotary since I bought it and it's been flawless. Check out my video showing me making a chess set and you'll see how will it does.

@@MandSWoodworks Thanks Again! I just realized I'm going with an ATC System. The tools will be sitting on the left side. I might need to stick with the Y axis for the rotary and vertical table insert, or lose a little of the width capacity of both if I use X? Not sure if I'll ever need the entire width? But I would hate to be wrong later down the line. My head is starting to hurt again.... lol

I'm sorry but I'm not understanding your question. No washers or shims were used. The rotary assembly and the tail stock both sit flush against the 2020 extrusion, and I use 8mm screws with T-nuts in the channel of the extrusion to secure it. I hope that I answered your question.

Yes sir I see that is on the upper side of the trail etc where the heads of the 8mm screws are it appears that there is a piece with 3 holes for the screws

Thank you! It took about 45 minutes. Check out my latest video where I cut the entire chess set out. I show cutting times for each piece. Thank you for watching!

Hi John! I have my next several videos already planned out, and unfortunately they don't include the technical side of the rotary, but I do plan to do something like that down the line. But I will leave you with this: Wiring up the 4th axis isn't any different than wiring up any stepper motor on a CNC machine. If you can wire up the XY or Z then you can easily wire up the rotary the same exact way. And as far as setup would be on a MASSO controller, I covered that in this video. I hope this helps and thank you for watching!

Logan, Check on my channel for a video where I made a chess set using the rotary axis and it'll give you a bit of insight on what you can do with it. Here's a link to save you time. kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hMWhlJCa1rutg4E.html I have used my rotary in a couple of my videos. Thank you for watching!

The best way to explain it is to direct you to the MASSO documentation on how to setup the tool setter. docs.masso.com.au/wiring-and-setup/touch-plate Adding the tool setter to the homing routine is done simply by enabling it in the settings. It was one of the easier things to setup when I upgraded to Masso. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching!!

So that automatically does the tool offset when enabled? I haven’t received my Onefinity yes

Thank you! I have never actually sat down and added it all up. But just doing a bit of math on a napkin, with everything you see in the video, I am easily around the $4500 mark. Bear in mind that I ordered the MASSO components direct from MASSO and I bought the bigger stepper motors as well, which would obviously increase the price. Add in all the materials, (wire, electrical components) it put me way over what it would cost to just buy the Elite model from Onefinity, which is considerably cheaper. But when you add the cost of the Rotary Axis, and the material to build a mount for it, then you still creep up over the $4k mark. I don't regret it a bit though. I learned things about my machine that I might have never known, otherwise. I hope that this answers your questions. Thank you for watching!

If you're asking about the probe block that is shown in the video, no. The block in the video, I have assigned as a bit setter. I use a different probing block for finding zero for XYZ. I hope that I answered you question correctly. Thank you for watching!

Do you use the same style block for finding xyz zero, just a duplicate block plugged into the probe port? I’d really like to see a video showing a complete setup and cut, with a tool change.

Same style, but not exactly the same. But I could use 2 identical blocks if I wanted. The way my controller is designed (Masso) it requires 2 separate blocks dedicated for each function. They are both plugged into separate channels, (or inputs) each designated to each particular function. I will put that on my "video to-do" list, to make a video discussing a tool setter and it's use. Thank you!

I just got a Onefinity with the same Masso controller. I have the xyz probe. I want to do the same thing you did. What completes the connection on the tool setter (the probe block has the magnet)?

Sadly no, I just drew up what I wanted on my CAM software and went at it! Thank you for watching!

Thank you! Instead of running the wires from the steppers located at the rear of the machine through the rails, I cut a hole in the table directly below the steppers and ran the wires through and underneath the table and then to the control panel. Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks Thanks. I just ordered an elite foreman, a pwncnc 2.2kw water cooled spindle and a chiller. Trying to plan a nice table for this. they should do the wires like that from the factory. Not sure why wires would come out of the front. I did order the wire extension kit just in case. They should at least put 90 degree connectors on the wires to prevent damage. As I design this table, do you mind if I send you some designs and get feedback about some ideas. Thanks again.

@@dbchrocker It would be my pleasure. 🙂

As far as the cutout for the vertical and lathe section, would you do anything different now? What are the dimensions of the 2 front waste boards? Are you running an 80mm spindle? Thanks

@@dbchrocker The 2 front sections are 6 inches x 48 inches, each. Yes, I am running a 2.2kw water cooled spindle. One thing I would do differently is allow for a larger area for the vertical cutting area. When I designed it, I put more thought into it housing the frame the I have the rotary axis mounted on. Which is how I came up with 6 inches. I sincerely thought that I would never have a need to cut anything vertically that would be larger than 6 inches. But there have been a couple of occasions where I wanted to fit something onto the vertical cutting area that was indeed larger than 6 inches. I have often thought that if I were to ever redesign the table, I would allow the entire front 12 inches to be the vertical cutting area, and have it completely open in the front for easier access when mounting things to the vertical cutting waste board. Something similar to the Avid CNC vertical cutting option that they offer, where it would be easily interchangeable between the normal waste board and vertical cutting area. But I think it would be better to make it out of extruded aluminum rather than wood, for rigidity and accuracy, and that would end up being pretty pricey. I am very happy with how I have the table now, and what I just mentioned isn't a big deal to me. It works great like it is, but like I mentioned there are those rare times where I wish the vertical area was bigger. :)

The machine is the Onefinity Journeyman Elite. www.onefinitycnc.com/cnc-machines The rotary, I bought off of Amazon. The link to that is in my description. Thank you for watching!

First, and I am assuming that you realize this already, but I just want to confirm it before answering, for clarity... I did not purchase the Onefinity Elite. I purchased the Masso controller and accessories direct from Masso and did the upgrade myself. My enclosures and the Onefinity Elite enclosures are completely different. So, with that... I think that you're confusing 'Axis; and 'Stepper' as being the same thing. It is not. And I regrettably misspoke in the clip you pointed out. I referred to the stepper driver that I am pointing to in the video as just 'Stepper', and it is in fact the stepper driver, that is connected to the stepper motor attached to the rotary. My apologies for that! Yes, the Masso controller is 4th axis ready out of the box and your setup screens will look just like mine, but you must purchase a stepper motor and stepper driver separately if you wish to employ a 4th axis rotary like in the video. And you are correct, I don't think that there is room to add a stepper driver inside of the Masso Touch enclosure. And considering that Onefinity provides enclosures for everything needed for the stock machine, you really don't have to add an additional enclosure for the 4th axis stepper driver. You can mount the 4th driver most anywhere as long as it has sufficient ventilation for cooling and there is no fear of it being damaged by accidentally hitting it with something I am not aware of any prosumer level CNC machine that offers a 4th axis rotary as a plug'n play add-on. If you want to add this feature to your machine, you're gonna have to do a bit of wiring yourself. Don't let this turn you off of the machine. I think it's one of the finest CNC machines on the market, and well worth the hassle of upgrading yourself. I hope that this helps, and thank you for watching!

Thank you for the quick response and detailed explanation! About “Confusing Axis and Stepper as being the same thing”… I don’t think so, but maybe I am confusing something else. So, first: When I hear/say “4th axis”, I’m thinking it’s synonymous with “rotary support”, which is synonymous with “controlling/driving a rotary”… and “controlling” implies the controller (driver) exists in the package they are selling. Second: when you said “stepper” I did actually think “stepper (motor?) driver”, no confusion there (and I also wrote “stepper” in my comment as well, thinking of “stepper driver”. I definitely wouldn’t expect to have to buy and hook that up separately, on my own. I would expect all the necessary stepper motor drivers to be included in the Masso controller, even more so because on the Elite Foreman page it mentions “Rotary support”. And even in your case, having bought the Masso controller separately. Because I think that supporting 4th axis (meaning “connecting and controlling/driving a rotary”) doesn’t depend on the cnc machine, but only on the controller (Masso) Otherwise, this sounds like “we are selling you this car, which supports 4 gears. BUT if you want the 4th gear, you have to buy it from a third party wherever you may find it. We don’t even have it to sell it ourselves”. I mean at least put a checkbox “add rotary stepper driver” (+cost) on the Onefinity product page, so the stepper driver for the rotary comes built in (and optimized for the enclosure, like all the other parts) and I don’t need to have it outside of the screen housing somewhere. Otherwise, them saying “Rotary support” is equal to nothing really… Now, I can’t let this turn me off, since the rotary is on the way 😅 but a bit disappointed maybe, if you are correct and the Masso that came with my cnc doesn’t actually support the rotary out of the box. And I’m not put off so much by having to buy it from somewhere else, 3rd party, or by being outside of the box, as I’m put off by the wiring 😅 Not all the wiring, I understand that most of that is the usual Masso controller, and in my case it’s already there behind the display, but at least if that rotary stepper driver connection would have been a single multi-pin connector…

I see your point, indeed. But unfortunately, this isn't the case. Look at it this way... If you buy a PC computer, it has printer 'support' but it doesn't come with a printer. You have to buy that, and install the wiring and printer drivers on your own. Masso provides that same type of support for a rotary axis, but you have to buy and install the rotary on your own. One of these manufacturers could offer a plug'n play solution for a rotary as a bundle, but I don't think the demand for it is great enough for them to create it. I don't know the number exactly, but folks like us who want a rotary and are willing to make the effort to learn to use it, we are in the 1 percentile. I think if more people grew to want this, then we'd see an offering from the manufacturers. Also, be aware that when you get your Onefinity and your rotary, that Onefinity technically doesn't support the rotary. Masso does. So if you were to have a problem getting it going, and you were to contact Onefinity, they would quickly refer you to Masso support. And from experience, your best option for contacting them is through their forums. And there isn't a huge topic on rotary axis there either. That is why I made this video. My hopes were that I took a lot of the guess work out of installing it, because I myself had to do a fair amount of research, and trial and error getting it going. With that, if you have any problems once yours arrives, let me know and I'll do my best to help you get it sorted out.

I’m betting on your video also! Great insight, helps other people avoid a lot of trial and error (will surely help me as well)! Probably a lot of people think a 40-50 minute video is 2 hours of work 😅 For anyone thinking that: I’ve tried to make a video once and after a couple of days of work i gave up :)) Really appreciate it! Great knowledge sharing! Subscribed!

I bought these particular pieces from 3D-STL-Store. 3d-model.store/catalogue/chess/ Thank you for watching!!

@@MandSWoodworks Awesome thanks. Keep up the great work - I know form my Own channel that KZfaq takes a ton of effort.

Yes it does! Just as much if not more than the project! Good luck to you as well!

Abram, I am assuming you also have the Masso G3 motion controller, which is what gives the machine the ability to incorporate a 4th axis. Wiring the 4th axis to your controller is no different than wiring up the XY and Z axis. There is excellent documentation on the Masso website on how to do it properly. Thank you for watching!

The rotary chuck doesn't care what axis it is set to. It's basically just s stepper motor waiting to be told which way to turn and how fast. The MASSO controller that I use is absolutely capable of 4 axis milling, where the X,Y,Z and A axis (A axis being the rotary) move together and all at once. The limiting factor to all of this is the CAM software. The only affordable Hobby Grade CAM software that is rotary axis capable is Vectric, but it can't create tool paths for all 4 axis. It wraps the A axis around the Y axis just like you described above. You can buy CAM software that doesn't have this limitation but it's ~$10,000.00. I don't know about you, but I can't afford that. You are blaming the machine, when you should be blaming the software.

I use Vectric Vcarve. Saving gcode is the same for any operation you create. I'm not familiar with other software so of you're using anything other than Vectric, I'm sorry but I wouldn't be of any help.

I am not 100% sure that I understand your question, but if I am reading it correctly... It has helped a ton! It has opened up many possibilities for me! Thank you for watching!

@@MandSWoodworks sorry I meant to say how has it held up? Also is it just two extrusions held together by mdf or plywood in the center?

Oh! The rotary? Yes it has! It's done great! I built the frame by combining 2 runs of 2020 extrusion, to make what would technically be 2040 extrusion. I used mdf in the center. In truth, I'm thinking of redesigning it because I've discovered that if I cut longer lengths of wood where I need to slide the tail stock further away from the chuck, the alignment between the center points of the tail stock and the chuck become out of line. It's only a problem if precision is a must, say if I were wanting a very long dowel rod and it needed to be consistent. But otherwise, it does the job. 🙂

Steal away! I cut tenons in the side edge of the mdf all the way around it, the same size as the channel in the extrusion. I used 2 pieces of 2020 extrusion, shouldered together by cutting 5 screw holes down there length of the extrusion. I used simple wood screws to secure the first piece to the mdf, and T-nuts to secure the outer extrusion to the inner. Did that make sense? Good luck and thank you for watching!!

Thanks for the quick response. Did not expect an answer so fast@@MandSWoodworks.

Thanks Steven! Do they sell the harmonic drives used on space satellites that you speak of on Amazon? I have no doubt that QUALITY harmonic drives are the best option over belt driven drives. And purchasing a harmonic rotary was my first choice, but I researched the cheaply made rotational axis that you can get for a couple hundred bucks off of Amazon. Not the well made stuff that costs thousands of dollars. And in that research I came across one person's experience where they bought a cheap Chinese manufactured harmonic drive that I was looking to purchase, and he found more than 1/8" of backlash in the assembly and he was forced to rebuild it with quality bearings and other parts to minimize the backlash that he found. I also found similar experiences from other folks. I read that other's experience with the belt driven devices were much more solid, and my guess is because of the much less complicated design. And I can confirm that with my personal experience with this particular belt driven rotary. I have several hours on it now, and I haven't noticed any anomalies in the carve that would be present if there were any serious backlash. So with that, I will continue to stand behind my statement, in this particular situation of cheap Chinese machinery for a hobby CNC machine, that the belt driven rotary is a better choice over the harmonic version. Now, if I am ever to graduate from making chess pieces out of wood, to making solar panels for the aerospace industry, I will most likely spend a few more bucks on a precision made harmonic rotary axis for the job. Thank you for watching!

Yes sir! mswoodworks22 on instagram. Thank you for watching!

I cut tenon's on the edges of the mdf panel to match the width and depth of the channel along the aluminum extrusion. I drilled holes through the extrusion, along the length of the channel (5 holes) and used small wood screws to secure the extrusion to the panel. The screws were probably not needed but I added them for insurance. I hope this made sense. Thank you for watching!!

Thank you Scott. I'm going to follow your lead.