Absolutely by FAR the best instructional video and concept for shooting boards!

This is probably the best video on shooting boards in all KZfaq. Thanks.

This was asked a couple of times here so I'll try to answer it: the reason the plane does not continually take shavings off of the edge of the shooting board is because the blade does not extend the full width of the plane sole. There is about 1/4" at the bottom of the edge of the board that does not get planed away and keeps the sole of the plane at a fixed distance (the amount the blade is extended) from the rest of the edge. In other words if you look at the profile of the edge it will be L-shaped.

I love this video. Not only is it good information, but the efficiency of presentation is really appreciated.

I agree with D Clark; this is one of the best shooting board videos on KZfaq. I love the simplicity of the board and easy of making adjustments when they become out of true.

Wow! This is one of the BEST FW videos yet! I've been using shooting boards for 45 years and this guy showed me some new tricks! Tim Rousseau... You ROCK!

Over the decades I've made loads of these things; this one is several light years ahead of all the rest!

I saw this 5 years ago and forgot about it. Funny how the most basic things can be made so complicated by so many people. This is just genius.

Nice! Simple, versatile, and tunable.

Great shooting boards. Very versatile, tunable, and adjustable. Shooting board fences are sacrificial in nature and I like the way your SB takes that into consideration, no Glued/screwed fence. The fence is quickly flushed each time you take it out for use.

I have soon so many examples of shooting boards BUT yours is without a doubt the very BEST I have seen. I have long learned by experience that often times the most complicated and of fancy is not always the best and in fact is usually not good at all in the long run. The simplest is often the best for a multitude of reasons. Funny how this happened because I'm going into my shop tomorrow to make a new shooting board and having seen your video I'm going to make m,y new shooting board in the same design as you have shown here with perhaps some changes in dimensions in this video. BRAVO! I am so glad I saw this video before I made my new one.

Not only is the information valuable, the presentation is very well done. Thank for this. Blair

I'm amazed every day with the ease with which one can pick up new knowledge. Back in the day you'd have to spend years apprenticing to pick up a tenth of what's available just on KZfaq. Just wow. Maybe someday I'll actually build something with all of this new found knowledge :P

Great shooting board. I did this. It allows you to make very precise angles.

Props for the vid! It finally helped me figure out something I was stuck with. I haven't started with Hyezmar's Woodworking Bible yet, but I googled and downloaded the book. Looks fun too!

Thank you for sharing... Excellent process.

I have not seen one like that before and its interesting. Thanks for the idea

That's a great shooting board design.

Excelent, simple and beauty.

LOVIT ! Very Nice Info that just makes sense, Thx’s for sharing !

Before you use your plane on a shooting board, make sure to break the edge on the side of the iron. That thing can be quite sharp. I learned this the hard way when I noticed my hand was bleeding after pushing my plane with my hand on on top of it. You can also put a strip of tape on the exposed edge.

Excellent to the point video

Excellent. Thank you.

Very informative. Thank you.

Nice design; seems very versatile

Really good video. My first shooting board, made yesterday, was glued and screwed together. And besides that it was rubbish! I'm going to have another go, and copy this design!

Great shooting board :) I'll try it

Thx, great tutorial

simple and excellent

I'm really jazzed to make one of these. The idea of more interchangeable parts fence wise is interesting. My question is what is the height of the "thin strip" that is "let in" as the fixed base that the fence rides on? Talking about planing 1/8" stock against it makes it sound really really thin. Is there a particular species of wood you recommend for this? It seems like this would be the weak ling in this aparatus--is it glued down or is it also a friction fit? To my inexpert eye it seems like one would want to be able to replace that piece.

thank you so much

Very nice informational video.

This video is outstanding, Its simple and too the point, perfect for my needs. I 'm sick of storing all the stuff you should make for your shop. Can I also add a drop of water to the wood when shooting a 45 on the board. Thanks great job

is that a stanley plane iw would love to know what brand that is thaks for the video

You can make a dado in the transversal wood for put in the vertex, for the miter shooting board

I like this. I'm going to build one, or two.

Best I’ve seen.

I'm going to add my WOW to everyone else's. Thank you.

Good stuff ta!

Thanks! Some interesting and original ideas, here. I have used a shooting-board for about 40 years, and wouldn't be able to work without it. You cannot function as a woodworker without one. (Unless you are just a machinist, of course.)

That's the best video about woodworking I saw for ages. Simple, quick and very usefull. Thanks !

0:20 applies to a lot of things in life

2:34 this is actually, how flat & smooth that surface is. Awesome!!!

muy bueno

2:35 Love how the plane is so flat that it creates a vacuum that lifts the board he's planing.

How do you square up your plane blade?

The key is to build for the suit of your purposes and environment. The work shop I work out of is also an anything fab shop so it had to be useful on a variety of work benches/tables of different heights, and had to be extra long for the drawer faces I need to join. Its not the easiest to work with for both reasons and isn't pretty, but it works and works well. It requires indexing the work against the plane sole on the bottom edge, and because the base is a 1/32 higher than the plane track, the iron leaves a 1/32 lip on the bottom edge (easy enough to deal with). The only problem I actually care about is how these types of tools confine the contact surface of the plane, wearing out that specific area of the iron requiring higher sharpening frequency. I may make a screw adjustable base rise to change the angle of the work to make use of the entire iron surface, but it will do for what I need now.

Excellent, really well explained. Do you have your own KZfaq channel? Thanks

One possible improvement could be to miter the left end of the block on both corners. Use this end when you want to shoot miters. You won't have to measure for 45 as the one mitered corner will butt up against the stop leaving the other corner exactly at 45 and flush with the bottom board. Hope you know what I mean?

They don’t go out of square if you use UHMW tape to run on

in my college in scotland a Shooting Board is a plywood board with sand paper glue to it use for sand end grain square weird that

Instead of aligning and clamping your fence block to get 45 degrees, I suggest one of two changes. One, you could make a second fence that installs exactly as the first, but is 45 degrees...or adjustable even! Second idea, would be to make your fence with a slot on both sides, adding a 45 degree slot to the top of yours. Hmmmm, needs an adjustable ramp too............???

I like this! I'll need to glue a bottom piece of ply wider than the top piece instead of running the plane on the bench. My bench is less than a smooth even surface.

So in example 3 where you want to butt 2 boards together, what prevents the handheld boards from being planed convex or concave that always happens to me.

This is a beautiful shooting board. Going to give this a try soon rather than micro adjust with painters tape constantly.

This should be obvious to me, but the block you're using for the fence here is walnut - is that correct? I've tried building one of the more traditional shooting board versions with a glued oak fence and I had trouble taking shavings off the end grain with that when I was first getting it setup.

"without breakout" 3:37 scared the poop outta me

Could someone tell me what that clamp/vise looking object was on the bench at the start with the more conventional looking shooting boards? I have seen one in a local second hand shop but the only thing the owner could tell me was that it's some kind of woodworking contraption. If I knew it's particular use I might just need to have one in my workspace. Thanks

@ TKARLMANN: The only type of plane you would use on the shooting board is one that has a "closed" mouth, meaning any plane that is NOT designed to cut rebates or shoulders where the blade goes to the VERY EDGE of the side of the plane (an "open" mouth). What happens is when the shooting board is used for the very first time the plane blade will indeed cut into the side of the shooting board BUT and here's the important bit - it will only do so where blade touches wood, where the blade mouth "closed" sides are (the thickness of the side walls of the plane) NO CUTTING will occur. This will create a very small micro rebate and the plane base then rides along the protruding part of it (a rubbing edge). Of course if you continued to advance the blade more cutting would occur into you stopped, and that would indeed compromise the usage of the shooting board side - but the reality is for ANY planes used on a shooting board, the blade cutting depth is set to take a very fine cut, as no more is needed, thus preserving the rubbing edge. Hope that clears that up!

What’s the best planes to use for shooting boards I have a Stanley no 4 5 and 6 and block planes no low angle ones yet

@FineWoodworking what plane is that? A n.7?

watching you plane, I realized... I need to get better at sharpening. what is your preferred sharpening method?

the plane on the bench

Does the shooting board has a step down on the lower part? Do to push the plane against the plywood or you plane on the air?

The mitre board is best.

When you're planing aren't you also planing the side of the board at the bottom?

I suppose this method assumes your bench is flat and will keep the plane at 90 degrees in reference to the shooting board. Or am I missing something here?

Damn can I come work for you? You hiring lol

Your planes cut so effortlessly. I sharpen and hone my plane iron up to the 8000 grit Norton waterstone, and even then I can't make cuts as effortlessly as that.

The perfect shaves.. bruh

My only shooting board is with bullet holes in it. Grin.

I've always wondered why the shooting board is not ruined when used. It seems as if the largest board gets planed away in use. You did not address this point.

I don't see an advantage over traditional shooting boards. You can take the stop out of a traditional board and trim it too. I have no problem with storing two shooting boards, the one for miters is not very big. And I really don't like using a tool that requires me to clamp something at a critical angle every time I use it. Finally, his using a shooting board as a planning stop only shows that his bench doesn't have a good planning stop built in.

This guy's obviously pretty experienced so I don't mean to cast aspersions, but every time his bench wobbles it makes me literally squirm.

shooting board? more like shooting hottie :)

3:36: whoa, what just happened there... lol

I never heard of a shooting board.

P

Wow and I thought Christian Bale was only great at acting

Not convinced by that at all.

That is about the lamest shooting board, I think the poster hated shooting boards, so he made the most non-shooting board shooting board he could think of. Just buy the the Veritas shooting board!