Thank you very much for this great instruction. I just replaced the front wheel bearings an my C-Class and my dad's S-Class. Instead of paying a lot of money we came out at about 21 Euro (€) per wheel. Without your vid we would'nt have known that the bearings can be replaced at home. Best regards from Germany!

Very thorough instructions. A couple of comments, though: 1) Setting the preload of the bearings with a dial gauge is critical. According to MB, the hub should be tightened so that it moves between 0.01 and 0.02 mm when pulled back and forth axially--no more and, critically, no less (too tight will cause damage much quicker than a bit too loose). I admit that I thought myself I could set the runout manually using approx. the method shown here--after all I had done this on bicycles with good results. Yet the dial gauge revealed that I was mistaken. Although I had backed off the adjusting nut carefully and although the hub turned freely and smoothly, the preload turned out to be too tight. After having corrected it with the dial gauge, there was NO difference that I could perceive, which illustrates that these adjustment tolerances are so small that one should not believe one could detect them manually. By the way, with the bearings freshly greased, it does not harm to check the preload again after some time (perhaps after 100 miles). 2) One tube of MB grease for two sides IS sufficient. MB specifies filling each hub with 55 grams of grease. Twice this amount plus the grease needed to pack all the bearings plus some extra grease for the dust cap amounts to just about 150g. 3) 150k on these bearings is not extraordinary--in fact they should not need replacement after such mileage. My original bearings and races were in great shape after 200k, so back in they went with fresh grease, and PROPERLY adjusted. If I were to replace them, however, I would not use Meyle parts. Often, Meyle parts are quite OK, but in this case I would definitely go with the OE quality SKF or FAG bearings--the price difference, if there is even any, would not be worth it.

you are the best narrator and auto repair video maker out there! This is great, thank you so much. Helpful info, practical and obviously a very intelligent and experienced person.

I love you right now. I just learned about the preload today, I tightened it by hand on my 07 E63. It was very loose and I was experiencing steering wheel wobble. The bearing may need to be replaced, however the tightening solved the issue for now.

Well explained. For the most part, it’s the outer bearings that go bad in Benzes. I’ve also been using regular bearing grease from the local car parts stores. Never had an issue.

I've learned a lot, Many thanks Greatings from Saudi Arabia

Holy shit man, one hell of an instructional video. Very professionally done. Bravo!

I particularly like your calling out bolt sizes, torque settings and hints.

Thumps up! It works - had a lot more work, but saved much more money. Senseful!!

great work. thanks for going through the detail. that's what I needed to get it done right.

Great video, I bought my bearing sets at Rock Auto and they included new bolts & crews & seals at the best price on line. Under $40 for both sides.

I'll bet you are a doctor. You are organized, speak slowly and clearly, and of course the creative channel name. :-)

thank you finally one of the right explained.

Rockauto$66.79 Hub. Per side. Great video, excellent Narration, and Camerawork.

Great video! Very detailed. Thanks for the effort

Thank you ,,,,Thank you!!! Great job ,,,I wish good fortune to you!

You are a great teacher! I tell everyone if they are not using anti seize they are shooting their selves in the foot.

Absolutely Fantastic!

Watched your video last night and carried out a full change this morning. You have saved me a lot of time, trouble and cash. Many, many thanks for posting such a useful video mate.

Thank you for the great Video!

Great Video for the novice! If you want to change your wheel bearing, but are the least bit unsure, this video is for you. Anyone with basic tool sense that follows this video will do a fine job. One of the best videos for the non-professional I've ever seen. Well done.

freeze races a day before and they will drop right in. Liquid nitrogen for 15 minutes if you have access to some. If not your refrigerator freezer will do just fine overnight. You also packed the bearing improperly. Still in all a great video. Thanks bro.

my w210 front bearing just completely shit itself yesterday . this video has given me the confidence to take a go at it myself.. thanks for uploading .

Hello Very clear explanation. I have an E350 2007 with pretty noisy wheel bearings. I sit the same procedure for that model you are working on. For that matter are all w211 chassis all the same. I plan to tackle this job this coming weekend and bought a 12 ton shop press ($129). For the money i am saving it is worth it since I will be doing the rear bearings soon. You are very organized and clean so I will be getting my cleaning solutions and paper ready as well as a mat. Thonk you

Great video!

Great Job . I was going to let someone else do this seeing this video gave me enough courage to do it myself tomorrow. Thanks Doc

Could've taped the edge of that flat wood chisel just to a tad gentle on the race. Still a damn good instructional! 😆 Great Job Doc!

Whenever you tap out parts that are pressed in you should avoid using WOOD as a support - the wood is soft and absorbs the impact. You need heavy metal like an anvil or a large bench vise to hammer on. Part pops right out then!

AWESOME VIDEO

Thank You for Your time & help in savings

great video thank you mani will do it weekend god bless you

thansk for a good detailed video! :)

Great content

Very good video 👍

Super, thank you

I think you omitted inspection of the bearings and races to determine whether or not they actually have signs of any condition that required replacement. In my opinion, the inner bearing looks fine, with no discoloration or scoring on the bearing surface of the tapered roller bearings evident in the quick view at 12:15 of the video, and the races also look fine in the quick glimpses at around 13:05 of the video. I suggest buying some mild steel punches or drifts to pound out the grease seal and bearing races.

Excelent! Tanks

Brilliant!

For tapered roller bearings the correct names are: cup and cone. Together they make up a bearing. Outer race is cup, unit with rollers cage and inner race is: cone.

Sweet! Just the answer I'm looking for. I'm about to go get myself one of those chisels.

Grazie di cuore!

Hi,The video is really informative.Thank you very much.I just changed the hub.The previous hub was turning crooked.But the wheel hub I just installed is turning crooked.What part is causing this to turn curved?

Thank you for Very good explanation. Would this process be same for 97 SL600?

I tightened with pliers,don't do that people.Tomorrow i am changing bearing again :/ in my yard and it's - 10 tomorrow :/ Thanks for video :) I hope it will be good this time :)

For cars with the SBC braking system, be sure to disable it before working on brakes.

like this. however, at one point you say "cheap like me...or watching every penny" notwithstanding the grammar, earlier you say one should buy the merc grease and who cares about 8$. that's 800 pennies you've just not watched. it's just amusing. the video's good and i like the presentation. thanks!

Superb.

Very nicely done. How many miles have you put on the new bearings so far?

very good vid :)

Complete hub aftermarket assemblies from FCP Euro are about $155 each, while the bearing kits are $42 each. So, for the $236 price difference for both sides, you can save time, risk of damage, and the cost of a shop press. While I love saving money and doing as much of my own work as I can, sometimes it's not worth it. Can you provide the part number of the kit from HarborFreight? They don't show the one you used. Also, to your point, the MB wheel grease is $6.44 per tube at FCP and well worth going with for such a rarely performed service.

so how many hand tight do you have to do ? or when do know the preload is all set to go .

Thanks

Just some ease of removing tip on press in things. You can use a torch to heat your hub right before you knock out the race. Heat makes things expand. It does not need to be red hot. Do not heat the race! Only outer hub metal.

Veri nice

@ cardiologist - I like this video but my question is did you have a problem with the abs and traction control fault coming up after fitting the bearing? because the abs sealing ring has to be totally flush with the edge of the hub I have been told? I have just done mine and it's gone one mm in from yhe edge so my traction control and abs is inoperative

Great.

is the T30 torx rotor/disc screw common to a 2014 W212 e250?

It's easier just to replace the whole hub assembly. Cost more but worth it.

i’m notice that new seal don’t have groves for abs! do you have some problem?

what about the rear wheel bearings? same procedure and parts?

Good video but Rear Seal should be electromagnetic as it will show the ABS and traction sensor off

Mines isn’t coming off the hub assembly is being stubborn what should I do?

Well, he might have gum flapped but everything he said worked for me.

Very nice video! I noticed that is no rust around the brake area. Is this pretty common for Mercedes not having rust in that area?

You should not have to replace the wheel bearings at 150k. These are lifetime bearings. All you have to do is ensure you always have grease in the cap, and periodically adjust the bearing load. That's it. Also, the spindle was visibly discolored. That means burnt and softened. I would have sanded it off or replaced it.

Excellent video. However, comment about not being able to use too much grease is false. At high revolutions the grease in the bearings have to have a place to go. When "overloaded" with grease, the grease itself interferes with the bearings and generates heat and vibration, often shortening the life of the bearing. note: Suggesting yourself a surgeon is a reach considering your overgrown finger nails and the much needed manicure that awaits before your next operation...

Where do you buy your parts for your Mercedes e320?

Hello, mercedes tech here,. your way for tightningen the bearings is wrong. u need to tignten it more to seat it right, hand tight aint enough, tighten it snug and back it off 90 degrees then hand tight if loose, mercedes specs.. :)

it is not seal it is MAGNET for abs speed....

Mine didn't tighten anymore after turning the hub. Is that OK? I don't have time to wait for a reply, so I'm just gonna send it. If you do reply, I'll just redo it if the new bearing isn't already damaged.

This auto mechanics asks a surgeon why surgeons make more money than auto mechanics although they essentially do the same thing. The surgeon replies: "Have you ever tried to fix a car while it is running?" :-)

Are you sure your supposed to pre-Grease the Spinal?

I know this was a long time ago but After installing your bearing did your ABS light come on, if so how did you solve the problem

I did this job a year ago, as per instructions in this video. Started getting some clunking so I checked the bearing, and what do you know, the AXLE NUT contact area is CHEWED UP! Seems like it was too loose or too tight, or maybe my 28 hour 1,800 mile non-stop trip wreaked havoc on it. If you want an update to this, like and/or comment! Be careful out there!

swap front and rear wheel if you suspect tire

I've ordered wheel bearings from FCPEuro and when they come in my neighbor and I will install them. I have an 01 e320 with 152k miles. I did this job about 20 years ago on my 85 300d. It had over 250k miles. Those spindle clamp/nuts do not spring out after that long and after releasing the locking screw they stayed clamped onto the spindle. You need a large wrench to turn them at that point. You cannot hand turn them back on. As a result I ended up overtightening them and destroying the new bearings after just a few thousand miles. Not good! The hub got so hot on one side my new brake rotors would not come off and the whole suspension assembly had to be replaced. I am going to attempt this job again and hope that spindle nut will turn off and on by hand. I will have to purchase another tube of Mercedes grease because only one comes with the bearing kit and some antiseize. I will have to go back to see if that seal is in the kit. I may have to get those. Wish me luck. This was an excellent video!

Can I just replace the bearing with not touching the races because they look solid non wrong with them and hard to remove

Question. I followed your video to the letter, with the exception of using the dial caliper to get the tolerance of the hub to 0.01mm. Now my ABS & Traction control are now inoperable. I even swapped the speed sensor and same fault. Could I have possibly did something wrong?

My car currently is driving kind of wobbly I am wondering if the wheel bearings has to do with this wobble at low speeds below 35mph but when i drive faster the wobble is way less noticeable?

No way I could get the Inner race out. Ended up cutting a “groove” and cracking with a chisel. Still had to hammer it out. Next time I’ll just buy the whole assembly and save myself some headache.

Do you have the Part number for those tubes of Mercedes Grease? I went to my MB dealership but they had no idea on how to order them without part number.

I found replacement parts for this videos project, why do we need to remove the race plates? Worn?

Why did you not record a few parts.

hi. i did everything just like you in a video, and after driving first few feet got a light and a message on the board saying "ABS, ESP inoperative, check user manual". Any thought about this? Thank you.

at 7:41 very funny!

Un poco bastante chapuza al sacar las pistas de los rodamientos; marcas que parece la superficie lunar.A pesar de todo, gracias por el vídeo.

Not enough turns done on the hub; at least one full revolution for each roller is needed for proper seating.. it takes to be safe 5-7 full hub revolitions for that. Best practise for setting play or pre tension is to measure resistence using an unster and set to factory/maintenance handbook/workshop manual data. This by hand method is good enough for this application though, provided hub made enough revolutions to set bearings..here it didn't.

I did this job on my 2007 E320 BluTec last summer and immediately got an ABS error when the job was finished. I don't think it's the ABS sensors at either side as the ABS system was fine before I completed both wheel bearing replacements. Both rear seals with the magnetic rings are new and that's the only thing I can think it might be. Did you, by chance, have any issues like this? Jesse

Did exactly this and now my car throws an ABS / ESP / cruisecontrol / tire pressure monitor warning. There has to be a step missing here... E250CGI 2010... Seems like the seal is also the ABS sensors best friend and for some reason now it doesnt find it.. .

That hub look chewed out where you hit with that wood chisel.

nice talk, yet he did not confirm any damaging wear on any part or bearing surface and this work was needless. SELDOM does any wheel bearing fail at any time within the 200 to 300 thousand miles of a typical car's life. EVER..and his did not.

put the hub in the freezer it will shrink metal then do the tap tap on the race with the metal shrunken!

Being a W211 did you disengage the SBC? People can lose fingers if this is attempted and the brakes activate

Torque on my '03 E500 18mm carrier bolts i 85'lbs/115nm, not 85nm

Cardiologist, Do you want Xentry?

If you close your eyes you can hear Kevin Spacey

Good job but you can improve it Try to someone else to help you to record the video while you are mounting those inner and outer tapered roller bearings. I don't see a thing how they were mounting. Anyway nice video. Thanks a lot.

Is this the same type of job for a e500 2003

Great that you still have your fingers! Next time at least disconnect connector to SBC, otherwise you risk with your health!

Didn't show how to put grease ?