Why do you always see these great videos after you have struggled to find a solution to your problems? Thank you and I know now how to compleat my shop walls!

Nicely done. I like the idea of keeping the plywood 1/2 inch off the floor. That stuff wicks like a sponge. Project looks great.

I lined my shop with 3/4 plywood all the way to the eve. after it was sprayed with 2 inches of closed cell insulation. Very happy I did that first.

Learned more from your videos in a few minutes than all day at the other companies office

Looks like a nice finish for the interior of this building. We at One West Steel Builders did the same to a 16,500 sf ag building in CA. Something we did was order the building with the first girt at 4'H and the second girt at 8'H so you don't have to cut the plywood at 7'-6" and utilize the whole sheet. We also ordered the building with an 8" base channel instead of the standard base angle so we didn't have to attach 2 pieces of base angle.

Been racking my brain over what to do with my shop and this is the perfect solution. Currently have drywall up but with this Houston humidity it's warping. Thanks for sharing

Having spent some 40 years in the trades I gotta say this guy impresses me. Not only does he know what he's talking about and is able to explain it so neophytes can easily understand, he seems 100% honest as well. That is NOT standard in the industry. Not much difference between metal buildings, homes or commercial structures, most contractors and suppliers are not inherently honest. I hate to say that, but experience has proven me right time after time. More often than not everyone wants to get every last penny they can, to the detriment of the end user. I believe in a FAIR profit as much as anyone. But a lot of these folks wanna get paid CEO wages for journeyman work. Chet seems to stray from that and respect his customers and THEIR needs. Sadly not too common.

That's a great point there at the end about sheetrock vs plywood walls

Chet , thanx so much. you really helped me improve on finishing my metal bldg. the shelf is brilliant !

Thanks for the tips!.....Planning on my dream garage, your so logical with the plywood vs. stick sheet rock.......please keep your suggestions coming......

Exactly what I was planning with my new 20x25 metal garage. Thanks.

Another great informative video. Thanks.

Excellent Video Chet. You do Nice Work...........

Thank you, I had considered buying a steel kit home to place in Alaska and was not sure how to attach interior walls to the girders. Good information here, I appreciate it.

I like the methodology. I'm doing mine but my first girt is almost 8 ft above the floor so I glued and screwed in 4x4 blocks under the girt every other 16" spacing and nailed the top plate to that and shot the 2x4 bottom plate into the concrete floor. Studded out 16 OC and covering with 1/2" plywood.

I very much like the idea of 3/4" tongue and groove for the walls in a workshop. Thanks for the video. I am interested in building a 14'x60' RV garage. Not sure what the cost would be, but I would probably have to do it in steps.

Thank you so much, that's exactly what I want to do!

I'm doing almost identical with my metal building, but I'm using 1/2" OSB. Spraying with a primer/sealer & painting white. I ran two separate circuits in each 4" electrical box (using romex behind the wall). I have no shelf on top, though. Have to think about that. The spacing off of the floor is a great idea. I'm doing .040" aluminum clad on the OSB where my welding stuff is.

Very helpful! Thank you!

Great video. I have the same type of building and was wondering how I was going to attach my plywood around existing electrical. Lots of great ideas with the 2 x 4 angle on the floor as well as the MDF shelf running horizontal. Thanks again.

Great video! Pro-tips much appreciated.

It depends on what you can do in your building but always remember this. You can go TALLER much more cheaply than wider or deeper. In my neck of the woods you can find used steel trusses and red iron cheap. So building a second level (for storage for example) becomes much more cost effective than a larger footprint. Think 20 foot eve height rather than 12 or 14.

Thanks for sharing!

Great Idea!!! Thanks for sharing. I will be utilizing this method in the near future.

Good video.......thanks!

Thank you for sharing this.

I myself would prefer a straight column, so there is no tapered column skewing out in the way as it goes up and eventually getting in the way of something, like say I decide to install a mezzanine living or storage space above and not limiting my storage layout choice as a tapered one will.

Very nice. I’m finishing a horse barn and this will work nicely.

3/4" plywood is the way to go. If you're making a shop then sheetrock is nothing more than a pretty waste of money. And if you're worried about fire resistance, there is plenty of low cost do it yourself spray on fire retardants available. Just spray them on all sides and let dry prior to installation and you're safe. The only thing I don't like is MDF, it's just crap. Use plywood. MDF sags like old boobs. And lastly, if you're building a workshop, don't forget to run your air, 220v, and 3phase, around the sides before hand. It'll keep your walls clear and you'll have it available to easily tap into. I'm planning a build and when the interior is finished, all I want to see is the walls and some equally spaced 2 sets of outlets and air lines. The rest will be added on as need basis. It'll keep the long term update cost low. And that's more important for me since I plan only one big cost in the building and setup. But for now it's saving every penny and getting any needed materials that I can get for cheap or free ahead of time.

The 3/4" tounge/groove is a really good idea.

Thank you!!

Thank you! it helps me with ideas. In FL. we are planning a 40x40x30 steel agribarn, but will stud with 2x6 , insulate everywhere with Ply like that, Paint. Intall a hydropower water wheel Genny, for low to no cost electricity. Install A/C inside it and Wallah!

I absolutely love the way you've done this. It's so clean and convenient. Did you have to order the 3/4 T&G? Or is it available typically?

Cheaper dirty quick way to do the electrical would be string romex (non metallic sheathed cable) ... (or the metal armored cable if that is code) into the void of new wall before putting up the plywood and leave a loop at each location you want an outlet. (or switch etc) then just cut holes in the plywood the size needed for old work boxes! You know the kind with ears normally used with drywall....well with 3/4 plywood it would be rock solid box mounts! Okay so the holes are cut right where you left the slack loop in the romex, simply secure the plywood, reach in and pull out your loops at each hole, cut the romex and install the old work boxes same as if in drywall You now have quick and easy flush mounted rock solid electrical installation! The only thing you get that is arguably less than with conduit is you lack the ability to pull new or more wire ...how many guys that would ever effect? hardly anyone....IF you DID want to allow for future you could lay in a piece of flex conduit behind the drywall with plenty of slack that ostensibly you could cut a box hole wherever in the plywood and fish it up to the hole and connect that to an old work box...note that the old work steel boxes are gangable meaning if you needed a larger box for a 50 amp receptacle or whatever, you gang two together to accommodate that device...easy peasy!

You guys build in CA?

I've been considering flat 2x4s placed vertically. $2.45 per 8ft length is $1.05/sqft while $30 4'x8' plywood is $0.94/sqft. Adding 1/4 tongue/groove for expansion and perhaps some backing wood could bring the cost up to $1.30/sqft but it's still within reason.

Very impressive spill!!!

Great advice...I didn't want to do the dry wall route. I'm also gonna do a loft...if I support it out in the open--do u think the 2nd support on the wall would be enough? There won't be a lot of weight on it, but I don't want anyone falling. Great video.

awesome

Nice job👍

Great Video! Love the tongue and groove and off the floor idea. I only question the use of MDF... Why not plywood shelves? I am sure you have your reasons!

Great vid thanks!

Very nice and very helpful 🌸

Thank you

What about setting the plywood on the inside of that angle? looks awesome..

One wonders if you could just place a non wicking spacer under the plywood? I do like the idea of the floor supporting the weight. Great video.

Chet, great video. I am in the planning stage of doing same thing to my building and this presents the solution I was looking to do. The idea of using 3/4 plywood make sense since I am planning to hang shelving. The one question I have is are you using the same fastener for the sheathing as you used for the shelf?

Great video... I’ve been wanting to do this in my workshop. Is the plywood the same as the SUBFLOOR plywood?

Use hat channels 16 on center. since they are screwed on in 2 places they act as sheer bracing and give more anchor locations for future projects. Yes, more expensive.

Great info

that about a Pic of the final product

Hi, Very informative. We have the same building set up with insulation. I have few questions 1. We are trying to insulate it even farther by adding SIP, and then drywall. Would you recommend to do electrical before SIP installation or after? 2. Not related to this particular video. How did you water proof outside where metal walls touch concrete slab? Thank you

Question. I have same wall set up as you and love the shop with the insulation. I’m looking at sheathing the walls to protect the insulation as well as hand cabinets and tools etc. I see you use 3/4 plywood. Would osb be strong enough for the same purpose ?

What kind of screws are best for the plywood to metal and keep it strong in place

Love this video but unfortunately in 2022 it would be cost prohibitive to use plywood. I recently purchased one sheet of 3/4" B-C grade plywood it was $69.00 Do you recommend any alternatives? BTW I took the sheet of plywood back.

nice

Why do you put the galvanized 2x4 thing on the bottom instead of just screwing into just the bottom girt like you do on top and the middle???

my i beams are 30 feet apart, one at each corner, and my perlins are 8 feet up. If I use this method, what keeps the wall from falling forward if something heavy is hung from the wall. The perlin is thin metal and it holds up the metal walls.... I guess I see the entire wall collasping inwards. There is a lot of flex in the metal wall.

nice! I might do this same thing but maybe make the shelf deeper on one wall only, not sure about going on all 3 walls we'll see

Nice video. Good information. Sound not so good. what you can try to improve your sound is a Wireless Lav Mic with a headset. You're far enough away from the camera that you don't need to worry about syncing sound to the lips.

Something you said caught my attention: You stated that the plywood was stood vertically, because the strength is with the grain. I thought the strength of plywood was that each individual layer that makes up the sheet of plywood has its grain perpendicular to the adjacent layers, thus giving it strength in both directions.

nice good jobs

Looks good

Do you pre drill the steel gerts/ studs too? What hardware did you use ?

Another thing that could be done is the put the plywood even higher off the floor and use diamond plate about 8 inches up or so or you can buy rubber molding that can be glued on.

Is it possible to use non metal on the outside.. I like to go hardy board or a brick vinere...or vinyl siding.. then use metal on the inside...

Great video, I just had a metal building built and I'm wondering what type of bit to drill through the heavy beam? The thinner stuff is no problem but to run the conduit it will need to go through the supporting beams horizontally. Any help is appreciated.

Great video! Where do you find the galvanized 4"x2" angle steel for the bottom plate? Is it 1/8" thickness? I'm trying to find something similar, but can't quite figure out what to search for or which supply house to call. Thanks!

Is the building heated or in any way environmentally controlled? I am asking because I am concerned about moisture / condensation. Planning on building soon - gathering information. Thanks!

Curious if you add any kind of sealant along the angle piece on the floor ?

I wonder what's the R factor of that insulation mat?

Do you do buildings in Las Vegas?

I so want to do this in my 30x40. But damn it all I am afraid to ask about costs. 2022 prices are rough

Nice

I wonder about condensation build up between the insulation and the 3/4" plywood. Is there adequate ventilation to relieve this or do you feel that this could be an issue down the road with the plywood. Mold, mildew etc...

How about if you don’t have any insulation and it’s just the metal siding on the outside.

I like your idea as it saves a lot of time over studs and dry wall. But if you weld or grind,all that wood can burn adds potential fuel to a fire. Drywall is a fire barrier.

Can you do a 40x50x14 in Texas?

Best way to anchor wood to steel is straight up with an Aerosmith anchoring system pneumatic gun designed for that job… the regular metal screw system used in this video will strip out eventually… I have used the Aerosmith anchoring gun for years doing exactly what this video demonstrates Versa Pin ST 4200 is the way to go… cheaper in the long run on labor cost, super tough you’ll have hell tryin to strip the VersaPin out of the wood. Just overall a way better system…

I do miss 30$ for a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch tong and groove plywood.

Is there a reason we can't build the steel building to match dimensional lumber? That way we would not have to cut the 8 inches off the plywood. Then the whole building could be finishable with dimensional lumber and drywall or such, with very little scrap.Is it that the steel codes don't match the wood codes?

Is that Bill Bilichek?

Were you eating when you filmed this? Sounds like an old 8mm audio

My plywood walls. I troweled drywall Mud very very thin , then painted , Everyone thinks the shop has been drywalled !

Minute 7:18

I like, but pressboard (not good) .

$30 a sheet. *Cries in Corona*

I wish I could spend $30 a sheet of 3/4 plywood....

That brings the question why go with steel why not go with a stick framed building? A lot of people I know that have bought steel buildings did not get the insulation, and the insulation is not easily added, this makes the building very hot or very cold compared to a stick built building. Seems like a lot of extra work and steps, like you mentioned three-quarter plywood is expensive $30 a sheet, a steel building is expensive and is not easily finished inside, look at all that square footage behind the sheeting that you're losing!, and you're losing a lot of space because of the beams angling out, those beams dictate where workbenches or equipment is going to go in your shop. Why not just frame the building out of 2x6's or 2 x 4's in the first place? You can put metal siding on the outside of the stick frame building if you want and make it look like a steel building. Stick framing is pretty easy, seams to me the labor saving would be huge if you supply the labor, there is a lot of profit in the steel building kit vs just buying Raw materials. In my shop wall space is essential to hang and mount many different things i've worked in metal buildings and it's a lot harder to hang things run air, electrical etc also like I said before the way the support beams angle out word it prevents you from putting equipment up tight against a wall or forces you to move it over to one way or the other, for example say you wanted to have shelving all the way down one wall tight against the wall it would be impossible.

That's a million dollars worth of plywood.

Bet this guy grew up on a ranch. Very materials conscious.

Nice video, but didn’t age well on the price of plywood ...... lol

Just use the same kind of sheet metal that's on the outside of the building. You can get it in white, it's not a fire hazard like plywood and should be cheaper than $30 a sheet.

You lost me at MDF

Camera man needs to hit the gym lol