Thank you for the feedback, really appreciate it. I did some training when I was in the military yes, and worked in a training role in corporate for several years, mostly for computer based training and just years of leading meeting etc. Happy to be able to use all that experience in my shop.

Ed, thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed the video. All the best with your learning, it is a lifelong journey I assure you.

Peter C - Thanks so much for the comment and the feedback. Glad you found this helpful. I think right now PM sells everything faster than they can get it. Maybe they will need marketing support one day and will pick me up. 😁

Matthew Peterson - Thank you for the comment and the feedback. And thank you for subscribing. I hope you enjoy the channel.

@VanoverCustoms - Thanks for the comment and the feedback. I keep trying to make it a little better each time. Looks like some good content in your channel, I will check that at more as well. Thanks for the sub!

advil000 - I appreciate the feedback. Great to know this was helpful for you. Congrats on the new machine, such an amazing journey ahead for you as you learn. I do love views but the goal of my channel is to help people. I hope some of my other project videos help as well. I try to share the whole process, my thought process etc. to really help you get a feel of tackling it yourself. All the best!

Terrence Redding - Thanks for the comment, glad you found it helpful.

courier11sec - Thanks for the comment, it is an awesome lathe to run. It was fairly new in this video, maybe 5-6 months old. I still try to keep it pretty clean though. My shop is to small to let clutter build up. With supply chain issues prices seem to be going up on everything. Good luck with your search. I hope you find a good deal out there. Great hobby to get plugged into.

Mikkel Bom Simonsen - Thanks for the comment. I am glad it was helpful. To your point, the basic functions of manual machining are the same regardless of the lathe size. All the best as you select the one that best fits your needs.

Anthony Allison - Thank you for the comment, glad you enjoyed the video. I really enjoy running this lathe.

Josh White - Congrats on your new mill and thanks for the comment. Yes, PM machines have a strong reputation for a reason, they perform well. Thanks for watching.

Machinist Calculator - My pleasure, happy to share what works for me in the shop. I love this app, I use it pretty much every time I am in the shop and often when I am not, I use the drill chart all the time for my decimal chart, ordering tap drills etc. Your website cncdirt.com offers great resources - Thank you!

Scruffy - Thanks for the comment and glad the information was helpful. I have never run a LeBlond, just looked up the 13x30, and that is a nice looking machine as well. Old iron tends to be good iron. All the best!

fenchelteefee - Thanks for the comment. Glad you enjoyed it.

@Timber2Toothpicks - Thank you so much for the feedback and very kind words. Glad you enjoyed the video and I look forward to when you need a project done. 😁

Gurudan Singh - Yes, this lathe has some nice features and the VFD was a great addition instead of just using a Rotary Phase Converter. Welcome!

Warren Parkes - Thank you for the comment. Glad it was helpful.

@gtcollections6933 - Thanks! It has been an amazing machine for sure. Appreciate the comment.

Tony, appreciate the feedback. I will plan to put more on that in a future video. Thanks for the idea.

Thank you! Really appreciate that feedback.

Christopher Enoch - Congrats on your new machines and welcome to the channel. You should be getting excited some great days ahead for sure. All the best getting your machines set up and getting started. My recommendation as in this video is make some chips get comfortable running your equipment before trying an actual project. The low stress tends to help focus on just the learning in my opinion. After a few hours just running a machine. Then try something.

@russelljohnson6243 - Thanks for the feedback, glad to here this was helpful, and thanks for the sub. The video coming out later today has a lot of manual machining as well. Long video but a lot of different operations in it, facing, turning, drilling, tapping and parting. I hope you enjoy it as well.

The Bot formality known as Dale Sather - My pleasure Dale. Appreciate you watching the channel.

Thanks Pete, glad that was what you were looking for. And thanks for another great idea for a video. I will be happy to share what tooling I have and would recommend. I will work to have that one next Saturday morning. I have another video and will likely put that out mid week. Customer project, repair job and no mill or lathe used so another lathe video sounds better. Have a great week - how could you not Wednesday will be awesome!!

Pete, I recorded the tooling video yesterday and will get it edited this week and posted Saturday morning as planned. Hope your install goes well on Wednesday!

Pete I hope your new Lathe arrived as planned. I finished the Lathe Tooling from Headstock to Tailstock video and it will be live at 7am. I hope you like it and it helps you get your tooling all set up for your new machine.

Anonymous User - Appreciate the comment. Glad you enjoyed it.

@SuzanBouchard - Thanks for the comment, glad it was helpful.

Roland- thanks, it is a beautiful machine to operate.

@@BladesIIB Oh, yes i can believe you, my lathe cost 1790 euros, but it's a little 600 mm between center (full manual basic model)

@@rolandchardon676 that sounds great. Sharp tools and your skill behind the hand wheels and I bet you make some beautiful parts.

Thank you, glad you enjoyed it!

@powerhous6706 - Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it. Appreciate the comment.

Asraf Ali - Thanks, it is a great machine to operate.

Dan Peterson - Appreciate the comment. Glad it was helpful.

Dev Everything - Thanks for the feedback. Great to know the video was helpful. All the best as you learn your machines. Truly the learning never ends.

@powerhous6706 - Yes, this has been a great lathe. Hard to come up with anything not to like about it. Thanks for the comment.

Bloke Beershed - Sounds like a great project and worth being proud of. Thanks for the comment.

@@BladesIIB cheers mate🤙

Bob glad you liked it. I know what you mean, I remember waiting for mine. Takes what seems like forever, so with it when it arrives though.

@JamesSimmons-gv4ow - Thanks for the comment. Glad the video was helpful. Let me just say that some amazing parts can be made on those "toy" lathes you speak of. Also, how they work is very similar for any size lathe. Some small ones don't have power cross feed etc. but the basic workings is the same for any size. Ge the one that suits what you need and enjoy the heck out of it. Middle eighties sounds like a great time to start something new, I hope I am doing the same when I get there. My grandmother enjoyed 104.5 years, and I just hope I got some of those good jeans. Cheers!

@@BladesIIB I am sure a skilled, experienced person can turn out some good stuff on one of those little lathes.

MrTrollgubben - No worries 😁. Most manual lathes have very similar controls so the knowledge will transfer to what you have. I do feel very blessed to have this lathe though. Thanks for the comment.

Asraf Ali - Welcome, appreciate the comment.

@rsz90182 - Thanks for the comment. Yes it is a PM 1440TL. Has been a great lathe for me. All the best getting your dream shop together.

@Edward55221 - Appreciate the feedback. Glad you found it helpful. The Low High lever you are looking at on the headstock is not for RPM (those are the top two levers) but controls the power to the gear box and the speed of your feed rod and lead screw. When you put that lever in High it is for very course threads or very fast feeds and gets those rods moving so fast that you actually can’t run the RPM above 360 safely (assume rods could whip and bend). So for any spindle RPM above 360 you need to have that gear box in Low. I hope that makes sense. Feel free to reach out with other questions.

I see now. Thanks for the clarification@@BladesIIB

Thanks Roby, glad you have a lathe. A lot can be made with a small one. I figure this weighs less than a car so figured my garage would not complain. I went to Florence once for work, beautiful city.

David Bartl - Thanks for the question. Yes my shop is one bay of my garage. It is walled off and heated and cooled for year round use. I am not sure where you might run into issues with a cold machine. I am sure the owners manual would give you a safe operating range. I used to do portable machining outside when it was well below freezing so may come down to what you can operate in. 😁 Cheers and Happy New Year!

Tyler Fu - Yes, hopefully everyone has put some effort into leveling their lathe. I think it would have to be off a fair bit to change tool height to bad though. The tail stock and carriage will still be down on the ways, so should get most tools close enough to cut well. The issue for me is being able to set tool height when the tail stick is in use holding your part. I built a tool height gauge for that purpose. Thanks for the comment.

Yes, thank you. The Lathe is the Precision Matthews PM-1440TL. Glad you liked the video.

I believe the T means Taiwan = better quality

Kevin Edwards - Fair question, I looked in the manual and could not find anything on it so I am sure PM could give a more accurate technical answer if you asked them. I never asked because my thought was in those high feed rates at higher RPM the carriage would move fast enough to increase the odds of a crash and/or the feed screw and lead screw would be turning fast enough they could whip and bend? Not sure if that is the correct answer but seems logical enough. Sorry I don't have a better answer for you on this one.

Kieth - the Lathe is a Precision Matthews PM 1440TL. Throw 14, length 40. They also make a 16x40 and a 16x60 in the same lathe. I purchased the VFD from Precision Matthews but I had to do all the wiring and installation. If you check my channel I have a full video just on the VFD install and wiring. Feel free to send your contact info through Contact Us on www.BladesIIB.com. Thanks.

Jeff, great question and thanks for the compliment. I just took a look at Joe’s method. Nothing against it for sure, guess it comes down to what you are comfortable with. In the case of my small diameter, (if not this video another) my stop window before crashing into my live center is about the same or narrower than stopping in my undercut so not sure I would have had an advantage? Like so many things in the shop lots of different ways to do it. Knowing more ways is good because sometimes one way really does help in a situation. Also, thanks for not giving Joe’s recommended thumbs down for long sleeves. I have always worn coveralls and in my mind flinching from a hot chip can be as dangerous. Bottom line, be safe no matter what you wear in the shop. Totally agree jewelry has no place and I do try to remove mine always. 😁

@@BladesIIB Ha Ha, Joe Pi is a very intense professional for sure. Watching what he is doing with that small lathe model is amazing on a full size mill and lathe. He is a magician for sure. The old school machinists in pics have shop coats=long sleeves. Awareness rules the day. You know what you're doing!!

@@jeffanderson1653 thanks. I have seen a few of his videos pop in my feed. I have not seen the mini lathe ones, will have to check those out.

This is a Precision Matthews 1440TL or PM 1440TL. I know the label on the machine is TL-1440 but there website refers to it the other way around. Has been a great machine so far.

Sun Master Taiwan lathes

james johnson - Thanks for the question, my lathe is a Precision Matthews PM 1440TL. One of their Taiwanese models and the level up from the 1440GT. I love it and would definitely recommend it.

@kimmoj2570 - Thanks for the comment. It is much more trimmed back now. 😅

BedsitBob - Thanks for the comment and the feedback. I have done some other videos with two cameras to provide that view, I will try to do that more often to give that added perspective.

Don Swords - Ha, yes may not be what everyone has in the shop. The principles and concepts are very similar on any machine though.

@@BladesIIB True that!

Tyler Fu - I remember that song. Thanks for the comment.

@@BladesIIB Yea I only heard that song watching Rain Man. By the way I got a Victor lathe. Not brand spanking new like this precision matthew thing but it does the job. I'm in Taiwan and in Taiwan Victor lathes use A1-6 spindle nose, not camlock, so it makes chuck changes a bit interesting. I had requested the dealer put a 4 jaw on it because the problem with 3 jaw chuck is they almost NEVER EVER come with the reverse jaws, and getting replacement jaws for those is nearly impossible. But I really like to get a 3 jaw like the one you have on your lathe, just so I don't need to move heaven and earth to find the reverse jaw if necessary. However I wonder if a 4 jaw is enough, it does make grabbing square stocks easy but having to indicate them in every single time I put stock into it is tiring. The only problem with the victor lathe is that to cut metric threads (which is common in Taiwan) you must change the gears. And of course the lathe didn't come with any gears. However my lathe uses timing belts instead of gears and I was able to get replacements cheaply off of Taobao. A Victor dealer in Taiwan wanted to charge me nearly 500 dollars for the change gears (I mean timing pulley) otherwise.

@@taiwanluthiers Sounds like a nice lathe for sure. Many lathes I looked at required the change gears as well so very familiar with what you are talking about. That is one of the things I liked about this model was having that built in. Regarding the chuck, if you will only have 1 the 4 jaw would be my choice. Yes dialing takes that extra couple minutes but you have a lot more versatility. I do a lot of small work and really like the collet chuck for that. I hope you are able to find a good 3 jaw with the jaws you want. Tooling is something that tends to continue to build up over time. Good luck.

@@BladesIIB My only trouble is, all the collect chucks out there are only for camlock spindles. I have not seen one made for A1-6 or other spindles (like those L threaded spindles). I looked all over Taobao/Aliexpress and can't find one. It looks like I am going to have to try and make my own. Oh and by the way, the 4 jaw chuck that came with my lathe has a broken thrust bearing. I had to machine another one out of a scrap piece of medium carbon steel I have lying around. Just torch hardened it by surrounding it with fire bricks and blasting it with a torch. I cannot find pre hardened 4140 in Taiwan though, they only have annealed ones. Annealed 4140 machines like shit, will not give a good finish no matter what (it machines like mild steel basically). Once you harden it, it machines beautifully. I had to use the torch in a firebrick trick to heat treat it.

@@taiwanluthiers Sounds like some interesting projects for sure. I agree that annealed 4140 is not near as nice to machine and heat treated. Try searching for heat treated 4340 another nice steel. I have seen some home made collet chucks and they are really nice, I think that could be a great project.

Mahmoud - I am only familiar with the Machinist Pro Calculator app from the App Store, which is not free. I am not sure about a free online version? The company who makes the app has a website www.cncdirt.com. You may want to check their site and see if you can contact them.

Dr. Paul Alpha Grant - The Lathe is a Precision Matthews 1440TL. Thanks for the question.

@grantensrud9185 - That is a great tool if you have one. I do not have one, so I make due without. Thanks for the comment. Guess I am lucky I had an etch a sketch as a kid. 😂😂

@@BladesIIB The etch and sketch was my first thought as soon as you said you were going to free hand a ball. I once tried to free hand a taper on a machine without a compound. It was a futile attempt. 😆 🤣 😂

@@grantensrud9185 Ha, it does take a little practice working both wheels. In a mill it can be easier since you can draw a sharpie line to follow. On the lathe you just have to see the shape being made and keeping a taper smooth would be tough for sure. 😁

@russelljohnson6243 - Ha, yes it does get used. Windex, is great for keeping the painted surfaces clean and it was very new in this video. One coming out later today and you can see how it is looking a couple of years in. Thanks for the comment.

HERMANTO SORMIN - Thanks for the comment, glad you like the lathe, it is a nice one to run for sure. With supply chain issues I know prices have changed. Check out the Precision Matthews website, they will have the latest pricing.

I appreciate the request. I can already assure you they would not. That is why after finishing it I referred to that as free hand contour practice. If I had to make 15 the same I would grind some custom tooling to make the radii more uniform. I may even consider a ball turning jig to mount on the lathe. Or set up a model on the tail stock and use a dial to trace it to keep me on path. Artistically you could get them looking like a cool truly custom chess set. If going for Precision jigs and tooling would be required.

@mbilelanka368 - I wish I had enough work and a big enough shop to take on a trainee. Maybe one day. Appreciate the interest. 😀

Ok thanks 😊

EddTube, thanks. It is a little of both. I am seeking more customer jobs. If you look at the custom hub videos on my channel I built with this, that was a paying customer job. I have had a few others and I make some of my knife parts on the lathe and sell my knives. Eventually it will pay itself off, which is more than most hobbies so well worth it to me.

@@BladesIIB amazing. It's certainly far more lathe than I need, but it makes me wish there were smaller lathes in a Taiwanese flavour, which I'd happy pay a couple of grand premium on.

@@eddtube If I am being honest it is more more than I need on a daily basis as well. I waited 20 years to get one so went all out. Check out the Precision Matthews website. They have all the way down to a 12x36 in a high precision 100% Taiwan lathe. All the best finding the machine that is right for you.

@@BladesIIB I'd love to buy from PM, but I'm unfortunately in Australia, so smaller sized lathes are limited to basically Hafco (similar to Grizzly) and Sieg. I'm likely going with a Sieg SC10 soon. Anyway, at least you'll never regret going too small or having to worry about messing around with change gears!

@@eddtube gotcha, that is rather limiting. You are correct, I do like not having to mess with change gears. I am sure you will enjoy your new Sieg, just looked it up online. Nice looking machine.

@andyjame1892 - Yes, this has been a great machine. Thanks for the comment.

Ryan R - Thanks for the questions. The lathe is fine, to long ago for me to recall exactly the issue but I would think just worn tooling. When just working on practice parts I usually will not put a fresh insert in.

Barry Weissburg - Appreciate the feedback. This video was meant to focus on the fundamentals of the controls vs a focus on the part. Some people found that helpful, sorry to hear it did not hit the mark for you. I have several other videos with this lathe and more focus on the part and the cutting action. I hope you will enjoy those.

Thanks for the question, it is a Precision Matthews 1440 TL.

@@BladesIIB I used tabriz machine The price of this machine is 10000$

@@user-rc7nu7js5o Nice, not a brand I am familiar with, will have to check them out. Thanks!

@@BladesIIB this is the iranian lath machine

@user-ne3du5np2h - Thanks, I think. 😁

This is the first one I have owned yes. I have operated several others.

I am familiar with Pounds per square inch (PSI) but not as it would relate to lathe bed pressure. I have never seen this used for a lathe specification and even if given for a lathe, I would not know how to accurately calculate that? Lathe beds wear over time but I think mostly from the movement and grit build up. If they are a good casting and hardened I am not sure pressure is the biggest issue. I think you will break a lot of tools and took holders, and have power and chatter issues before bed issues. Just my opinion though. Maybe someone else can chime in with a better answer for you.

@@BladesIIB аs I understand it, this means abrasive, the most important thing is not to sharpen cast iron, they told me its dust as an abrasive, and not to put the machine next to the lathe, I didn’t come up with this system, I just assumed that engineers lay it like this, in my machine passport written 0.2 mm revolution at 2 mm depth, the speed of 100 meters per minute is a rough roughness, but in the advertisement I saw 0.3 mm / revolution, the depth is 2.5 mm, the cutting speed is 50 meters per minute, while I do not know this in the advertisement the exact parameters or not, I have a Walter calculator, installed on my smartphone, I don’t know how exactly it measures, well, in general, it’s not very good, but there’s nothing better, because according to its first settings, a cutting force of 80 kg of force is obtained. So I want to conduct an experiment. I want to calculate the area of ​​the surface adjacent to the guides and calculate the quadrature and divide these 80 kg of force into the number of squares and see what load the square of the surface of the guides takes on in order to estimate whether it is possible to increase the modes or not.

@@BladesIIB your machine is better, but it is not suitable for the imperial system and does not fit the metric, I saw there 2.55 inches, -through in the spindle, if it were not imperial, then I would not continue to search, and think, in the future I would buy , but ... I wanted to know where you can see the technical characteristics of your machine, at least a link, I could not really find anything, and the size of the screw for the thread, the one for the mother nut, I think this information even with all the links is not find, on mine 0.7874 inches, I want to compare with my own, how much my toy compared to yours.

@@user-ul9qe9sl9c good luck with your experiment, sounds complicated? I use SFPM for speeds and inches per revolution for feeds and go by feel and finish to adjust as needed. I am not sure I see the value in calculating the pressure on the bed? Maybe I am missing something.

@@user-ul9qe9sl9c here is a link to the full details on the lathe. They make a full metric version as well mine is the imperial model. It has graduations for imperial or metric and the DRO has imperial or metric so fully capable of machining in either. The main difference is mine has a true imperial pitch lead screw for cutting imperial threads using the half nuts and thread dial. For metric threading I have to leave the half nuts engaged and not use the thread dial. On the metric machine that would be opposite thread dial available for metric threading and would have to leave half nuts engaged for standard threads. The diameter of my lead screw is 1.125”. www.precisionmatthews.com/shop/pm-tlseries-ultra-precision-lathes/

@DodgyBrothersEngineering - sounds like maybe some personal learning there. If you survive the mistake the fist time, I agree, it is a pretty good lesson to never do again.

@@BladesIIB happened to me in the mid 80's, while I was at college. Was a decent sized machine too. To this day the thought of a T handle being left in a chuck sends shivers down my spine.

@@DodgyBrothersEngineering No doubt. Close call for sure.

@johnseal6103 - I appreciate the feedback. This video was not meant to show the part, just how to operate the controls on the machine. Many have found this perspective helpful. I do have many other videos on my channel of the lathe in operation making parts with the focus on the material being cut if that is more what you are looking for.