Phenomenal video! Thank you. I’m prepping for my metal roof now. Your video couldn’t have been better timed. Have a great day.

Great tutorial! Liked the use of type of drills. Todays clutches are a pain to use and adjust.

Beginning carpenter here getting ready to do my first metal roof on a project. Thanks for all the detal and clear explanation!

Excellent job, good pace of explaining, clear speech, obviously a professional builder, just starting the meter portion of my build.

I love that wind/uplift loads diagram. Great video....thanks so much..................... Roy

Very helpful! Thank You for your time and for covering all the aspects I needed to gather materials , tools,, and plan the repair of my roof issues . I particularly appreciated you sharing the affects and having to plan for PSF of up-lift! Great video. Never unestimate the power of sharing knowledge and experiences . It is a raw form of caring about others! Thank You again!

Awesome video, my metal roof is 12/12 pitch, on SIP panels, very well insulated no heat lost what so ever. The biggest problem we get living here in Atlantic Canada is the winter freeze thaw cycles. The snow will not slide off the North side of the roof and when it thaws a bit and freezes again it forms around the head of the screw creating a solid sheet of ice on the roof, it’s impossible to get it off with any conventional tools. We have to wait untill spring and the melting cycle. Sometimes when the melt is slow there is an overhang at the edge where the ice slowly slides down getting 4ft or more of overhang before it brakes off with a thunderous crash. My suggestion to your viewers living in snow areas is to use the hidden screw type roofing, my neighbours went that route and have zero issues with ice hanging onto the screw heads.

Excellent information! Thank you!

Thank you for a very helpful video!

Thanks for your advice

great info friend! answered every question i had! thx

Wish I'd seen this fifty years ago when I was working on a pole barb building crew. Lots of leak repairs. Now I realize it was over-driven screws (or maybe it was nails back then) , not simply that they were driven into valleys. Even now (until today), I've used wiggle wood and screwed through the peaks on Fiberglas deck roofings and the like. Thank you, Jack, for making the rest of my life simpler.

Excellent and informative video. Thank-you once again Jack. Years ago I installed metal roofing on my garage and a wrap around verandah with the screws placed on the peaks but now I'm starting to see signs of moisture around the screws on the underside of verandah roof so I agree that the valleys would have been better. Also, on the verandah I was screwing the top half of the panel and my dad was securing the bottom half. He tended to apply a bit more screw pressure which would flatten out the peaks a bit more than mine, deforming the panels into a wedge shape. After 6 sheets it became quite apparent we were no longer running parallel and had to remove and redo the panels. Make it nice or do it twice. With time I suppose the rubber washers shrink and harden and with the expansion and contraction of the sheets, it creates more movement at the screws when they are placed on the peaks. The expansion and contraction would explain why the manufacturers only have one screw in the valleys, allowing the raised portions (peaks) to soak up the movement. Live and learn. Sorry, this is becoming a long comment, but I have a question you may be able to help me with. We had local tornadoes this past spring and many farms and homes lost their roofs as well as downed trees. Luckily my roofs were ok. The original house has the ridge going in one direction and a later addition has the 2nd ridge going 90° to the first. So the wind was hitting a gable face on one portion while it rode the surface (like the airfoil you described) on the other. X and Z axis on your simulation model. I only noticed a day later, but the attic access panels for BOTH attics actually got sucked up into the two separate attics. Pretty scary to realize we may have just been on the edge of losing the roofs. So here's my question. Going back to the analogy of the roof becoming an airfoil, I'm not able to decide if the sucking in of the attic access panels was a good thing or not. I'm thinking it ended up increasing the pressure in the attic, thereby increasing the "lift". In other words, the access panels should maybe be secured down in some way, not simply dropped down into place. What is your thought, or if anyone else has insight into this, I would appreciate comments. Did the openings relieve a negative pressure or increase the pressure in the attics. Thanks again.

Screwing on the rib adds back tension to the rubber screw seal. However, if attaching to furring strips, most screw on the flat for strength of attachment. My rule of thumb is, if you’re installing on solid decking, typically new construction or a complete roof rebuild, screw on the ridge. If you’re installing metal roofing on furring strips over an old roof, screw on the flat to get deeper penetration & additional rigidity of install on the roof. I could be wrong. Some do both the rib at overlap, & the flat everywhere else.

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What an excellent informative video. I’m planing on doing our 24x24 detached garage. It’s 15 years old and the asphalt shingles starting to fail. Here in Ontario Canada, it seems that as per the manufacturer of local roofing steel, the ribs are the preferred location for the fasteners. I will be doing 1x4 strapping on top of the existing shingles for the new metal roof. I am debating what gauge of metal to use as I have the option of 29 or the heavier 26 gauge. I am also debating if I need to cut a ridge vent since this is an unheated detached garage with nice wide aluminum soffits. Since I have 2 x 4 blocking in between the roof trusses at the peak, cutting a ridge vent doesn’t seem to serve much purpose. I would like your thoughts on what gauge of metal I should use and if I need any vent at the ridge in your honest opinion, thank you

Makes me wonder if slanted garnish at the gables would lessen uplift from blowing wind. Or, would that affect water runoff?

From the 12 minute mark where the dots are showing where to put the screws, what if you don't have that many studs going across in the middle to put the screws in? You would have to have 4 horizontal beams and yet only two vertical beams to make a grid support, not including the top and bottom support. I'm using boards underderneath. Maybe that's what was used. I am used to seeing grid supports. I know I am not using the correct carpentry terminology but I think you probably will understand. Thank you!

There are now screws that have like an umbrella cap over the rubber washer protecting it even more from the elements.

Can you use self tapping screw to attach it to wood, 1x4 or 2x4 or plywood on the roof? It would be easier than predrilling at some places, also get cleaner and flat hole on the metal sheet, also easier to keep in place once starting to drill.. But would the screw hold any worse than regular screw in the wood/ plywood?

Good video but, this would be great info video for me if you showed the exact metal roof and screws I used, like the metal roofing HD sells. HD sells several types but I bought mine from nearby lumber yard that sells the same as HD..... All your charts showed perfectly flat tops or rounded, why didn't you show the common metal roofing HD sells, the top/peaks aren't perfectly flat nor are they rounded, theres a water channel on the tops with very slight curvature on the very top of the peak. It's a very common panel, there really no room for tape on the tops but calking could be used, which I thought of doing but didn't. Then the screws you showed, ALL have perfectly flat washers, never seen that type, the ones I bought have a dish shape washer that covers the gasket lot better...... Then why didn't talk about roof pitch needed for screw type metal roofing, I spent 10 hrs this past August looking online trying to fine answers to that, which I thought would only take 5 min....... So on my shop that was built 10 years ago, I thought it was lot harder to screw panels that way, constantly fighting to keep panels square and harder to stop at right tightness. Also I think theres to much panel movement from sunlight so if panels are screwed on the tops, the panels put more stress on screws... So this past August on my house addition I put screws on the low side of panels, easier to keep panel square and now the tops can expand and contract without putting extra stress on screws. Also my addition is fully boarded over so I put down weather-shield made for metal roofing since I'm concern with low pitch I have, roughly 14" drop in in 14ft..........

Great and informative video. Metal roofs get a bad rap because of poor installation. A properly installed metal roof should be the last roof you ever have to put on your house.

I had my metal roof installed I noticed that dust in getting in my attic is there anyway that can get repaired

Think about water. Does it flow in a low spot or high spot? What will leak the most when that rubber washer degrades? Manufactures are in business to make money so they’ll tell you what makes them the most money.