Thanks for watching and commenting!

Appreciate the commemt rory! I made the video because i wasn't finding the answers i sought, and worked out a pretty good setup over time. I am psyched that this filled the info gap for you. I have tried a few other brands and still really like the osmo. If you have a bunch left over, be sure to put it in a smaller container or put plastic wrap on the surface to keep air from skimming over your finish in storage.

Thanks for the positive comment and good luck out there!

Right on, glad you found some of it helpful. thanks for taking the time to comment! Appreciated.

Thanks for the comment! Glad you were able to find some helpful tips.

ㅇㅈ👍🏼

I'm glad I was able to help you a little. I was in a similar situation where the can was not answering my questions and once I got my bearings I thought some other folks might find what I had learned to be useful.

i am psyched to hear you built a desk! I'm glad I was able to contribute.

Happy to hear this was helpful. You can't go too far wrong as long as you make sure to remove all the finish at the end.

I an glad some of the small shop tips are helpful. I had to cobble together a lot of random info and testing and was hoping to make the info search a bit easier for, well...you. always remember to wipe it ALL off at the end. I often omit the spreader card on smaller pieces and just use the soft pad. Finished pics can be found in my instagram feed a while back @isakziegner_design. Look for the blue and heart inlay. Cheers, isak

Yeah, finishing can be quite a journey. You definately remove all then finish from the surface with this type. Sort of confusing when other finishes are all about creating a finish on the surface.

​@@isakziegnerdesign Oak is really hard to finish for sure but if you get that finish it will look outstanding. Great video!

It's not glamorous but I'm glad it helped!

Happy it helped! Love your handle! 😆

Thank you for leaving a positive comment! I hope you had great results with your finishing.

Glad you found the video helpful! What type of wood is your desk?

It’s a natural edge spalted flame maple. So far it’s turning out beautifully! Wish I could send a picture.

@@PatioJ oh, that sounds amazing. I am on instagram @isakziegner_design. You could dm me if you have an account! There are a lot of great woodworkers active on insta.

Isak Ziegner see you there!

Are there any particular subjects or aspects that you would like to see a video about?

@@isakziegnerdesign Projects that you're working on and any tips you could share should be great!

@@isakziegnerdesign any epoxy projects and woodworking/finishing video would be awesome. Kuddos for a very well presented video in one take

@@nickbisson8243 haha, content production is a whole seperate full time job. I tried the one take cell phone video and it seemed to work out well enough. Only so much time in a day.... i am thinking i will do some videos on filling voids with epoxy and creating interesting fills. Seems like folks could pick up a few tips from the things i have discovered over the years in that arena.

😎

Happy it was useful to you. Thank you for the positive comment!

The jointer is sweet. Old crescent 12". Pre electric motor. I estimate it is 1918. I am going to do a video one day as i had very little luck finding much info when i put this one together... thanks for the encouragement!

Thanks for the positive comment!

I am really happy you found this helpful! Thanks for the comment.

Yes, that process has a few more steps and i will try to create a video if i do it again. I do not do that process very often.

Thank you! Each one is unique and a fun journey.

Thank.you for the kind words!

A good cleaning is generally all that is required before re-application. You should lightly sand out any damage or defects that need to be remedied, then go ahead and reapply! That is the beauty of this system. It is easy to maintain amd does not need to be stripped off like failing polyurethane type coatings.

Thanks for the positive vibes! Definitely make some videos! I have been suprised by the interest in this one! Go get'em!

Sounds like a fun project. I love the beautiful old growth douglas fir i salvage in my area sometimes. Remember that the osmo does not change the surface of the epoxy much, so you may want to sand it to a higher grit than the wood.

@@isakziegnerdesign Thank you for that tip , I was intending 3 hundred plus , all the best from snowed in Isle of Islay 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿 .

@@jgalt155 oh, that is the best island! Love your distinct scotch. I have actually spent a week camping on islay.

@@isakziegnerdesign Haste ye back and we’ll have a wee dram of 25yo Lagavulin together :) .

@@jgalt155 oh. Yes please!

Glad you found it useful!

I am not sure what role the steel wool plays in a second coat of wax. If the wood is properly prepped to the grit or polish you want before application, then the surface is complete . That means that the steel wool is helping you create a hand rubbed finish and is generally associated with a dull sheen like satin or flat. This osmo i have selected is a satin finish, so no surface sheen work is required. Remember, you completely remove the finish, so any polishing or buffing afterwards is about final look, rather than the surface quality or finish application.

Thank you!

Well, on one hand you have the idea that finish changes the way the wood moves and so you are creating an imbalance between the top and the bottom. On the other hand is the idea that yhis type of finish lets the wood breathe, and so it will be moving in a similar way to the bottom that has no finish. I would say it has a good chance of being fine if you only finish the top. You could also use a cheaper oil type finish like boiled linseed oil or tung oil on the bottom.

I am not completely sure I understand your question. If you are asking whether I would finish the backside then the answer is yes.

For wet sending item to use a cork or wood block and a piece of sandpaper that can survive wet sand. I use a grit that is the same as my final grit or higher so 220 is usually my final Grit and I would consider using 320 as well just not something that would leave noticeable scratch patterns. Once I am done wet sanding and have a slurry on the table I Wipe it off with a plastic card and a bit of a squeegee action so it leaves the poor's filled. The next day when it is all dried you need to sand it back a little and it can be helpful to go down a grit so maybe 180 or 150 if you are finding that it is hard to sand back efficiently. Then apply a final coat with the normal process rubbing it in and then buffing it off completely.

You sand and polish the epoxy to the clarity you want in your finished work. I go up to 1500 grit or higher. You are essentially polishing plastic as the finish gets wiped off and does not permeate the epoxy.

I always finish both sides of anything wood. That way the sides are both expanding and contracting equally. If only one side were finished the seasonal wood movement would be different on each side and lead to a greater chance of warping and distortion.

Thank you for the kind words! This table is monkey pod that grew in hawaii. I really enjoy working with this type of tree.

Hi tommy. Thanks for the compliment. I suspect the minwax stain does not actually seal and must be top coated. You could test it on a scrap of wood. Apply the minwax and then after it is dry, put some water on the surface. If it soaks in then it is not sealed and the osmo would absorb and work just fine.

I like to use dye stains from general finishes and transtint dye.

@@isakziegnerdesign Great test idea!! I don't mind buying a small tin just to test it out -- I save more money if it actually is just fine. Thanks for the dye stain recommendation! Looking forward to your next videos.

Not if the epoxy is properly mixed and cured. I often find that i can SEE the scratches in the epoxy once i have applied finish and buffed. You just weren't able to see them as well before. You can check by wetting with mineral spirits or alcohol before the finishing process. Use a raking side light to help see surface flaws. I sand the epoxy to a very high grit and often polish it if there is a large area of epoxy. It can be Tricky if it is a smaller fill.

I think it works on porous tile and possibly concrete. I would certainly check with the company. Try direct messaging osmo USA or osmo Canada on Instagram maybe. They may have another formula that works better for other substrates.

@@isakziegnerdesign sounds good thanks for the help👍

Wet sanding is just an option, not something required. You can apply as many coats as you like but generally 3 is already over what is needed. Wet sanding is quite messy and requires sanding back after 12 to 24 hours drying.

Works well over stain. Some people use a thin coat of shellac as their conditioner. You may not need any conditioner at all. Just be sure your stain has a day to dry.

Is the osmo will get buffed completely off of the resin so you need to Polish the resin to whatever sheen before before finishing the table.

The resin needs to be sanded and then polished to whatever sheen you want it to have before you apply the finish to the table. If you want it to be glossy I would sand it up through 1500 grit and then polish like a car with is with polishing paste. This type of a finish gets buffed completely off of the epoxy.

Check out what @blackforestwoodco is doing. Huge business making epoxy river tables. They use osmo. instagram.com/blackforestwoodco?igshid=mqi344021361 . I know there are other recommendations for soft wood. I believe it drinks up a lot more finish. A softwood table is going to dent a lot and show lots of marks.

You polish the epozy to whatever sheen you like. It is plastic and will not absorb any finish. Finish over epoxy will make it less clear and vibrant unless it is gloss clear. The osmo just wipes off the epoxy.

Hi lawrence, the buffer is great and saves a lot of time on bigger surfaces. Buff until the finish seems to be gone. I would still buff with a clean cloth afterwards. On a small box i would probably not want to pau for a buffing pad unless i was doing several boxes, or finishing ither items at the same time. You can apply finish to the inlay, as it will just buff off. It helps even out the sheen, as the polished epoxy tends to be shiny. Think of the finish on top of the epoxy as working like furniture wax, as in a surface treatment. It is not recommemded to sand all the wood to a high grit like 1000, as this clogs pores and reduces absorbtion. It may work just fine though. Worth a test.

Isak Ziegner-thanks so much for the reply- my plan was to sand the wood to 220 (what Osmo recommends) and try to sand the epoxy resin to 1000 or 1200 - I have the equipment and pads to do it with, just trying to sort it all out. Good luck with the channel! Keep the videos coming!

Another question- I have had paint “wick” into the surrounding wood fibers when I carve things- I usually hit it with some dewaxed shellac spray before I paint. Does the colored resin also wick into the surrounding wood? Is it good to coat it before you put the resin in?

@@LDBecker i pre seal my inlay area with a layer of epoxy before i do any thick inlay as i want to seal in any bubbles and saturate the wood a bit. Just brushbit on and let it soak in amd harden like a layer of finish . You can do this to the top surface as well, if clear epoxy is gping to be alright for color. Or use shellac as you mentioned. I try not to get shellac into my actual inlay opening as i suspect it will block the epoxy from binding properly with the wood fibers . Tape masking the top surface can be helpful. I make a perimeter with silicon caulk so i can overfill my inlay and not have to worry about it settling below the surface height.

Yes, just sand the scratch out and reapply finish to thst area. The finish will blend and you won't be able to see it afterwards. This is one of my favorite things about osmo. Very easy to repair and the repairs don't show!

Isak Ziegner thank you - what grit would you go with for a not too deep scratch? Was thinking 220?

@@raffigarabedian that sounds about right. Better to go slow with a high grit. Also, have you tried popping the damage back out with an iron and a wet towel?

@@raffigarabedian you can sometimes get gents and parts of scratches to pop back out or rebound. Place a damp towel over the spot and iron it creating steam maybe 10 seconds. Try twice. Dents often pop back out.

Yes, osmo is an oil product and will go nicely over an oil stain. As long as you have not sealed the wood with any product, osmo will work well as it needs to be able to soak in to the wood. Osmo also makes colored versions so you can get a color by applying the finish in one step. This is quite common with floor finish type products.

The rubio is a similar class of hardwax finish. You could certainly top it with an osmo product if they make a glossy version. I tend to use satin amd matte. Any polish or wax that is glossy may work. Just be careful of waxes that are not the color of the walnut as they often pack in to the open pores.

Osmo may change your sheen a little, but adding oil and wax on to epoxy creates very little change, as you wipe it all off. Nothing is absorbed in to the epoxy. I would opt to spray a coat of 2k polyurethane over the epoxy and select the sheen you want. This adds a more durable surface over the easily scratchable epoxy. Less polishing is necessary if you top coat like this, as you want the epoxy to have a little texture so the polyurethane will adhere properly. Let me know if you have follow up questions....

I would most certainly use this on a dining table if this was the type of finish I wanted. If I needed something with more of a protective barrier I would use a 2K polyurethane and spray it. Osmo is a really great penetrating finish that leaves the would feeling lovely and natural. I like that it is very easy to repair and maintain. I have osmo on the counter tops in my house.

I agree that it is nice to get both sides sealed up at the same time. I like to finish the bottom first including the edges, then buff completely and flip. I put it up off the bench on thin clean strips of wood to allow for air flow. Then i proceed to finish the top. Be sure to triple check for drips after buffing.

Isak Ziegner thanks for extremely fast response. Great help.

@@Joestacemazjojo no problem! Happy to contribute and share!

The pads are originally made by scotch brite. You could search that, or scouring pads. The other colors are more abrasive, and will act more like sand paper. I use the gray pads as synthetic steel wool. You can just use a cloth to apply the oil if you don't have a pad.

Do not leave a film! Buff all the finish off the surface after application. It will harden on top but is not tough as a film and will certainly not hold up. If, after buffing, you still see scratches, they are from your sanding and need to be sanded more thoroughly. This type of finish requires careful preperation to ensure you sanded consistently as it does not hide anything on the surface.

Isak Ziegner thanks isak. Yes unfortunately I watched some other videos and they recommended wiping off with a white pad which when I did it still left some very thin ridges. So no I can still sort of see them in "raking " light. I'm up to 4 thin coats - hoping the ridges (really just lines) would go away. If not would you recommend taking it all off? I will definitely use your technique the next time around.

@@petehill3430 sand it back until the ridges go away, then do one final coat with a complete buff off. You may have succeeeded in filling some pores this way like with wet sanding.

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks. That worked out well. Than an again for the clear demo- I'm much more confident with using osmo now

@@petehill3430 i am so very happy to hear that my experiemces were able to help you a bit! Have fun out there!

The osmo gets wiped off the resin completely, sonit is important to sand the resin to a polished state for clarity. If your resin is colored this is less important if it had depth. Mine is clear with color at the bottom to make it feel like water, so i sanded and polished the resin up to 1500 grit.

For stairs i do not sand as much as furniture. I stop at 100 or 120 grit. Otherwise they are too smooth and the wax makes them feel quite slippery.

There is no real change for the resin areas as the osmo does not penetrate resin, and gets wiped and buffed off at the end of the application process. You need to polish your resin to the desired sheen by sanding and then polishing it before applying the finish to the wood.

Good eye! 1918 era crescent 12" jointer. Babbitt head and originally belt driven. It is a sweet and very heavy piece of machinery.

Clear satin 3054

Absolutely, just use low speed like 1 in a rotex. The white scrubber pads are what is recommemded as they are non marking. You will find lots of peopme using amd recommending this method. But beware, the pad ince full will throw finish which is messy, so change as needed. Also, just a pad on your velcro is bound to seep through and get finish on your sander. Use some sort of middle pad or barrier. Vacuum is clearly not needed. Some people apply this way as well. They use larger buffers or even floor buffers for big operations.

Thank you I'm excited to try this stuff.

I think that is a good system. The thinner products penetrate easier and are more readily absorbed, leading to better protection. That said, buying 2 products to finish one item effectively doubles your cost. Is the finish twice as good? 2 coats of polyx is a great finish and one coat of extra thin is only going to improve things. Not essential, but a bonus if you have the funds and access to the products!

Lots on instagram at @isakziegner_design. That is the best place to find recent pictures. Thanks for your interest!

Yeah, you’re not supposed to drink them.

The 2nd coat always feels very different than the 1st because the wood is close to sealed and very little soaks in on the 2nd coat. It should feel as though someone has waxed and buffed the table as you finish your 2nd coat. No finish at all should be felt, just feels like waxed wood. Go ahead and sand back the streaks and then and then reapply your 2nd coat. This is actually a method of pore filling and shouldn't be aproblem as long as you are able to sand off the remaining finish that dried and left streaks.

@@isakziegnerdesign thank you so much!!

I can only say yhat you should try a test piece and see if you like the results. If an oil finish has worked for you in the past, the osmo should be a good bet. The penetrating oil may be better at getting in there for the first coat. Remember that osmo is just oil and wax, plus a thinner so it goes in better. Nothing magic about it, go ahead and run a test piece!

I would do all the epoxy and glue work well before the finishing stage. The wax amd oil will vause the epoxy to not bond well. You have essentially protected the wood from then epoxy.... hope that helps. This is a finish all in its self, and the epoxy for bar top finish is another type of finish. Choose one. Some things can go under epoxy, like dewaxed shellac and then lightly sand between coats.

This is a great finish to start with. It is so easy and forgiving. Just always be sure to completely wipe everything off the surface when you are done. Absolutely finish both sides. If you only finish one side then the weather effects each side differently and you will get uneven wood movement causing cupping or cracking potentially. The same rule applies to veneering, or even planning a piece of wood. Ideally whatever you do 1 side you must also do to the other side so that the forces and movement are even between top and bottom.

@isakziegnerdesign thanks alot. I did think I should do both Sides because of cupping. Every day is a learning day.

@@dannywestgate7652 It is a fun journey and learning experience. Always ask as many questions as you could think of!

I would use a foam thin roller and Cedar will soak up a lot of finish so you may do a coat that soaks in and then a second coat later.

You may Look into other osmo products such as thin oil or specialty architectural finish. I think you can come up with a strategy that involves no need to wipe. The Cedar is going to soak up a lot of finish and you shouldn't have any puddling

Sanding is not required before adding another coat. It is recommemded that you very thoroughly clean the table before refinishing. This is the time to gently sand out any damage or blemishes that have developed. A light sanding is definitely ok on the table before recoat, but not required like on a film finish that needs the sanded texture to properly adhere.

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks so much Isak. This will save me a ton of time! Great advice. Keep the videos coming 😀

Ideally you complety remove the finish from the epoxy. There should be nothing left on the top of the surface when done. As epoxy is non-porous and does not absorb the finish, there should be almost no change. Be sure to sand and polish your epoxy to the final look you want prior to finishing. Black forest wood co may have some tips for you as they do a lot of the epoxy river tables.

Rubio is also wax and oil like osmo. Pallman magic oil as well. I see minwax has one out now. Odies oil is similar. Rubio relies on a catalyst to dry quickly and should have a 1-3 year service requirement like all these harwax oils. Easy to repair. Easy recoat. Much longer interval and better protection than just a wax or just an oil finish. When to service is subjective . Is it looks dry, absorbs things quickly or gets damaged, you clean and reapply. Maintenance can be oil, wax, or anything compatible with the 2.

The bottom line is that you will be fine with a little dust because you are wiping the finish off completely.

I usually remove dust with compressed air from my air compressor and then a piece of scrap velvet cloth

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks.

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks,.

Yes, that is the one that I am using. I really like the clear satin 3054. Glad to hear the video was useful!

@@isakziegnerdesign DUDE!!!!......it was the most professional video dedicated to the best top coat I have seen! I have been using General Finishes "Enduro Var", but I have seen the light broseph! Thank you so much!

@@Aidenpoe123 i used to use GF brand for my film finishes but i have graduated to milesi and renner. That is just a different category of finish type. It has its uses. Both these brands are outstanding in their category. Check out the wealth of info from eric reason. Sooo much great testing and info on his channel!

It is a little hard to tell without seeing your table and the epoxy. Generally You are wiping all the finish off of the epoxy portions and the epoxy would be polished separately.. I would do all my polishing before I applied the finish..

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks

Yes, it goes over most stain and also comes in colors. I have used it over general finishes dye stain with good results. Just keep in mind that a repair may be hard to bend later.

@@isakziegnerdesign thank you.

I would use just osmo polyx. If you want to change the color then stain first, then add osmo. It never cracks or peels and you can reapply if it ever needs to be updated and refreshed.

@@isakziegnerdesign thank you!

Rather than leaving osmo on the top of the epoxy I would maybe try to use steel wool or synthetic steel wool on the epoxy. Give it a gentle rub and try to remove the shine with 0000 steel wool or very soft type synthetic steel wool (brillo pad).

Yes, that is the one. I like the satin sheen.

Traditional oil finishes stop protecting after a relatively short period of time and need to be renewed. Hard wax oils like osmo have better protection and a longer service interval. I generally look for signs that they are no longer preventing absorption of liquids and/or a general dry look as if the wood is thirsty and not very waxed anymore. At that point I would do another top coat after cleaning the surface thoroughly. At that time I would also sand out any blemishes with a high grit like to 220.

I would try wet sanding if you want the pores to be filled. Pores are designed to transport liquid, and are doing just that. It may take a lot of thin coats to fill them up. Wet sanding and creating a slurry will help fill the pores as it becomes more of a thick paste. Look into some wet sanding technique.

Check out my reply to JParson as i detail a bit about pore filling. Recent commemt thread.

Osmo is an oil and wax finish, so it protects from.within the wood. This means that is soaks in to the wood and you wipe off the surface . You won't get pore flling or the astic film finish feeling and that is sort of the point. You can, however, wet sand on coat 2 of 3. Wet sand and then wipe the surface with a plastic card so that the pores remain filled. After it is dry 12 hours, sand back to 150 or 180 amd then to 220 again. Then add 3rd coat. This should yield filled pores with an oil finish. I have done this with osmo to good results. Look up wet sanding an oil finish for more info on the technique if needed.

Isak Ziegner thanks!

I suspect they are quite similar products just without a color but I have not used the color version.

Once it is dry i think caulk may be able to adhere. I would strongly recommend creating a sample and running a test before you trust it.

The wood is monkey pod and it is a single slab. I added a piece in the center of the epoxy that is heart shaped.

There is no need to sand between Coats with this type of a finish. Just be sure to buff all the finish off at the end of each coat so there is no residue on the surface. This is very different from a film finish like varnish that leaves a film and you need to send it to create texture so each layer would adhere to the next one properly. You will notice that after your 1st coat you only need a very small amount for additional Coats because the wood has soaked up most of what it will absorb in the 1st coat and the additional Coats just add a little bit more protection. I recommend at least 2 Coats as the feel after the 1st coat is never quite as silky and nice as what you get from 2 Coats or more. It is possible to sand between Coats but I would definitely use a grit that is a higher number than what your final grit was for your furniture finishing. Maybe 320 or 400 or even 600. The only time I sand osmo is if I have done a wet sending pore filling coat and left a little residue on there to fill the pores. Then I stand back before adding the next coat.

This finish is a matte, and most of the finishes in this family are quite satin or flat. I think osmo may offer some other sheen options.

You have to remove all the finish during the application process to be done with the application. I think i refer to that as buffing. What you are buffing is wax so the surface has a nice feel and sheen with just buffing.

I believe it is the 3054 and it comes in different sheens that are specified after the number. I use the 3054 satin.

I do not see the need to use osmo over epoxy. Osmo is oil and wax. Plastic absorbs neither of these things. That is why people buff it. Treat it as a car. Buff, wax. To get a mtte finish, remove the luster. Maybe the osmo is a way to keep a satin feel on a plastic surface?

@@isakziegnerdesign that's what I'm thinking. Every one that I've seen use it on resin it comes out smooth and satin. And since it's sanded before the application is applied the resin does absorb the first layer and doing so allows subsequent layers to bond to each other. I've also heard that it hardens in 24 hours much like resin giving it a strong coating. I've also heard that doing a ceramic layer on top that will give it an h9 level of hardness.

@@joelando1559 some notes on using osmo. Ince the finishbis applied, it is removed completely. That is essential. There should be no build up on the surface. Any film on top would be cloudy and messy and not hard enough to overcoat. At no time, unless wet sanding to pore fill, would you ever leave any finish on the surface of a product. Osmo is removed and buffed with a clean towel. The finish is IN the wood.

I would just overcoat the epoxy with a 2K polyurethane by renner or milesi. Maybe pick one with uv protection. Adding oil and wax between 2 products seems inadvisable.

White non scratch scrubbing pads or scouring pads

thank

what grade sand paper gradeyou use before apply he osmo??

I sand finished furniture up to 220 grit.

@@isakziegnerdesign thanks