I found this useful, just replaced all 4 corners, I didn't lift inspection cover, I had no arch liners at rear, and managed to bend the metal work enough to reach top bolts. And front liners I cut 2 neat cuts and lifted it up. By far the worse side for both spheres was the passenger side, poor access rear, and even harder front as brake servo in way, took me an hour to undo sphere pipe nut!! Ebay pump worth it's weight in gold, I was very surprised with minimal tools and some time and effort this is a DIY job can be done at home, with trolley jack and axle stands. Saved me hundreds.

great work. i am not going to do it myself on drive way, but now i know what is there and how it works. if you have access to a large jack to move the car 2 meters up life will be easier.

Dude you are a legend this is going to help me out a bit on my desperate attempt to save a brick that didnt even roll when i got it i need to get a boot panel also as you can see the petrol tank thrugh the top

Great video! I have to do it on my 'F' and it's reassuring to see what you're in for beforehand.

I have found this video very helpful 😁 I am about to tackle a subframe swap at the front of my MGF. Fortunately, I don't think I need to disconnect the pipes to the front spheres, but I will need to depressurise the system. Having never worked on hydragas before, this video has just given me enough insight to know what to expect. Thanks for sharing

Great video, thanks for sharing your experience, hopefully the off side rear sphere will come out as easily.

Seen a few of your videos, like em, like your no nonsense common sense approach.............great work and you ave taught me a bit.thanks

Great video...no messing about. Good explanation of how to do this job. Loads of tips very informative...!

great video glad I have the spring shocks, you're a brave man,

Great video, very helpful, thanks for shareing.

Great help. Thank you.

great video, you don't really need to drill a hole for the top bolt as an open end spanner can fit in there & you need to undo it from the inside of the engine bay where the nut is with your socket. The shop pump system has a vaccum pump on it so if you got that done later on, you could remove the air from the system. Altering the system so it is not connected together is not great. as it was designed so when you hit a bump at the front it pre- pressurized the rear ready for the bump.

Really enjoyed the video, going to be more and more useful as time goes on, thank you very much for you efforts.

Thanks for the explanation. 👍

Very helpful. Thanks for the effort!

Great jobb! Thanks fore shareing! 👍❤️

Great vid Tnx man

Thanks great help

would like to have seen what you used for a pump, good vid, thanks

Excellent video; many thanks as I have now removed the rear spheres and the front offside sphere. However what I need is a similar video for the front nearside sphere as there's a great big servo in the way - how do I get to the top nuts on the plate that holds the sphere in position?

Many thanks for this helpful video, may i ask what type of pump you used , and the fluid regards

What happened to the nitrogen gas within those spheres? Once that's dissipated into trhe atmosphere, all that is gained from pressurizing the system is only ride height. Without the gas or with less of it, comfort will be sacrificed

It's a shame you can't get the spheres reconned, makes me feel like you're driving on borrowed time. Also what did you use to pump up the pressure/flush the lines?