Thank you for watching! Yeah, this window regulator design is a pain.

Yeah, not sure what the engineers were thinking when designing that.

I spent 20 mins searching the web forgot that part in there rn is trash 😂

If you could make a video of this I’d very appreciate it because my glass won’t go down when I try to push it down as you say to get access to those two bolts

@@stevhandingwall2028 I'm sorry but I sold that car and I've never made a video myself. That entire regulator panel gets replaced so anything that you do to it to get access to those bolts is acceptable in my book. Good luck. 👍

Thank you for the reply I will face the battle tomorrow I will do what I must to get it off

@@stevhandingwall2028 be brave. Do good things. 👍

You're welcome.

Glad to help!

Good to know that the steps are similar across different vehicles.

You're welcome. I'm glad you found my videos helpful!

I'm glad you found the video helpful.

Thanks for the tip!

You're welcome.

Yes, it's currently in the editing stage. I can try and get it done today.

Update: Video uploaded, kzfaq.info/get/bejne/mbZdjbeq3LbUZKs.html

@@MTTech awesome, thank you!!

Hyundai always over complicated things. Crazy you have to removed the outside door latch etc

Unfortunately no, there is not enough wiggle room to slide the window regulator off the door lock actuator. Even if you were able to slide the regulator off without removing the actuator, you'd have a hard time sliding the three white plastic "forks" into the slots of the lock actuator inside the door due not being able to see where the slots are and not having room with the large window regulator.

You're welcome!

Thank you! Much appreciated

You're welcome.

Thank you. I need to work on not being too thorough. I don't like to miss steps, so that's probably why I am thorough.

Are you saying the glass is stuck in the clamps of the regulator?

@@MTTech Glass is stuck inside the plastic cap. Unable to get it out

Yes that is correct

@@MTTech Yes That is correct

You're welcome. Glad my video was helpful.

Thank you!

You're welcome.

You're welcome.

Thanks.

Should be the same procedure as the with the front door handle removal: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/n5pzoKec1ZPMkYE.html

You're welcome.

You’re welcome

You're welcome.

Yeah, it's not the easiest car to work on..

I assume your window motor doesn't work? If it doesn't, remove the inner door panel, disconnect the cables, disconnect the cable for the window motor, remove the screws for the window motor, remove the window motor, and wind up the white gear behind it with your hand. This should move the window up. That's if the window still and regulator have the ability to move. Once up, put the motor back. And everything else back. Doing these steps takes less than 30mins. To remove the window regulator and everything that I do in the video, takes over an hour. 2+hrs for someone who has never done it.

@@MTTech you would've been so helpful before I ended up getting it fixed. lol. I was charged $220 with the parts. The labor took about an hour and half. 🤷‍♀

@@nativempress Honestly, that doesn't sound bad for pricing. Seems fair to me.

@@MTTech yes I agree! I am so thankful.

You'll still need to remove the same stuff. If it's an 06-11 Azera. Not familiar with 12-17 Azera.

My first guess is flipped wires or bad switch, but that doesn't make sense if the window has worked normally before..

Found out they wound the cable spool backwards. I Dremelled 2 keyways and flipped the connector.@@MTTech

You're welcome.

Nope. No need to replace any wires. It's just a tedious process that takes time. Most shops charge $100-$120/hr labor + parts.

You're welcome!

You're welcome

If you give me the VIN of your car, I can look up the regulator that will fit.

Meaning I cant raise the window enough to get to the window bolts

Does the motor work at all? You could lift the glass with one hand while the other lifts up on the window switch. Option two is to just unscrew the window motor (three torx screws) and take off the motor. Then lift the glass and push it up by hand. And put the motor back on.

@@MTTech Thank you for the fast response!! Unfortunately, it's not the motor that's broken. It's the cable inside the window regulator. The motor tries to work, but the window can't go up because the window cable is no longer attached. I think removing the motor might solve the issue though...? Then I would be able to physically pull the window up with my hand, right?

Correct. I don't remember if there's multiple cables. But probably. If you can't pull the window up with the motor attached, then you will need to remove the motor first.

Unfortunately, I don't remember the size. Probably a T30. You could also buy a small assortment of sizes just in case.

Have you removed the window motor? If not, try removing the motor and see if you can move the glass down with your hands, until the bolts appear through the holes in the metal window regulator panel.

You're welcome!

Hey Joey, I was going through my email and it looks like you left a comment asking if I would know what could cause your brakes to squeal? I can no longer find the comment on this video, so I assume you deleted the comment. Many things can cause brake squeal. What pads and rotors did you install? Cheap pads can squeak even with plenty of friction material left. Did you lube up the new brake hardware and contact points? Always use new brake hardware, don't reuse old ones. Eric from South Main Auto has a great video on brakes: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j86nkseQqr3Wf4U.html Hope his video gives you some tips.

@@MTTech hey sorry for a very late reply, not sure what pads I used but they were definitely cheap ones, so I’m assuming it’s because of that, but now I’m hearing squeaking when driving high speeds and car is bouncing up and down when I’m on highway, or I make a turn without using brakes at all. Also just tonight I started hearing a weird clunk sound when going over speed bump. Here is a link to some videos of some of the sounds imgur.com/a/6fxPn3e could this all be the pads? Maybe a year ago I had a brake caliber seize up and I didn’t realize til I heard this terrible grinding of it clamped down on my rotor ending up destroying it. Could another caliber have broke and be holding the brake pad against rotor causing the sounds? Maybe it’s something with suspension idk. Or is this all just cheap brake pads. Again sorry for late response

@@joeym2723 The squeaking sounds like the brake wear indicator scraping the rotor when you apply the brakes. Either the cheap pad material wore down to the wear indicator, or a seized caliper is seized and holding a pad against the rotor causing premature wear and thus causing the wear indicator to scrape the rotor when braking. Did you replace the brake hardware when installing the cheap pads? Normally, cheap pads don't come with brake hardware, so if you reused the old hardware, that could cause a pad to seize up as well. I'd recommend you to watch this video which explains the importance of how to replace brakes properly. Cleaning out the rust if there is any and prevent a seize caliper/pad: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/j86nkseQqr3Wf4U.html The bouncing car and clunking over bumps is an indicator of bad/worn struts. You can either have a shop replace just the front struts or if you're a DIY type person, you can buy the entire strut/coil/mount pre-assembled and install it youself. This does require taking off the wheel, and unbolting the knuckle that attaches to the bottom of the strut assembly. It is recommended to replace both driver and passenter side struts as you want the car to sit and ride evenly, and not crooked to one side due to one strut being older. This is what just the strut looks like: www.rockauto.com/info/63/340024__ra_p.jpg and here is what the entire strut/coil assembly looks like: www.rockauto.com/info/904/172281__ra_p.jpg

@@MTTech how long should brake pads last? Cause I just replaced them 10-20k miles ago, that was when I had to replace my caliper I replaced all the brake pads and rotors (had a mechanic friend do it for me) not sure if he reused old hardware, and I’ve taken it to him about the squeaking thinking it was the brake pads but he said my brake pads were fine. Sounds like it should take it to someone else?

Apologies for the super late response. If you are able to push the window up and down WITH the motor installed, then the issue is the motor not engaging with the gear in the window regulator. The window should NOT be able to move with your hands if the motor is installed. Check to see if you have the black plastic window gear installed between your window motor and regulator, as shown here: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/btx7ZZmmvZa7dX0.html

Stipped gear in the motor bro I would have just replaced both

Yeah, unfortunately it's only these model years, with this cheap plastic door handle.

The speakers on my 2011 Toyota Corolla were also riveted in. While yes I agree there's so much extra crap to deal with, the metal window regulator is better structurally then just a thin plastic like other car makes.

Yes the design of the window regulator sucks. But on the flip side, the outer door handle is easy to replace. Where as some other cars require removal of the interior door assembly.

@@MTTech you're absolutely right but it's not worth the tradeoff. Riveted door speakers? Who does that??? I was doing right rear outter handle couple hours ago. Socket dropped inside door. I went to remove it then I saw the bag of foolishness. I said f it. Left the socket in the door and just changed the handle.

@@ryanmedows6072 I assume it depends on the model also. Other auto makers do it too. 10th gen (06-11)Toyota Corollas also have riveted door speakers.