Have a question, what's the difference between microcement and a cementitious coating? Have a contractor that recommended the cementitious coating

@@VentureSD Sorry for the late reply, cementitious basically refers to a resin floor that has cement mixed in with it. They are very different from overlay floors but also very useful; A microtopping floor is very visually appealing, it is durable but heavy long-term wear will damage it. Very easy to clean but not fully sterile. This is a great and very beautiful floor for your average use. It is superior to traditional flooring of its type like hardwood, vinyl, or carpet. Cementitious flooring is a pretty ugly type of flooring. But beauty is not its purpose. It is incredibly durable, it can withstand large machinery, grease, oil chemicals, constant impacts, pretty much anything. It can also be made to be pretty much completely non-slip sterile. This type of flooring is poor for everyday use, but for production areas (like a kitchen or workshop) its the way to go.

@@SofaMuncher Perfect, thank you! We're leaning toward the microtopping vs. polished concrete. Does the microtopping overlay cover the imperfections in the concrete slab like old tile shadowing and the glue lines from carpet? We like the overlay option for our home, just want to make sure it fairly durable and won't crack or damage easily

Is doing this on Osb recommended? Or can it rot if moisture gets to it? What would you recommend flooring wise

Could you use a gauge rake and then a spike roller for a smoother finish?

SAME 🥰🥰🥰🥰🥰

please advise - i am trying to use this for interior floor. what type of mesh do you recommend? something like styro from home depot?

Yeah, how do we do the wall? I'd love to find an online course on how to apply microcement on various surfaces.

Sounds awesome Tito. I’m sure it’s a beautiful place

Tito, sounds intriguing! Good any links to your results?

Yes, please advise what grit sand paper you used?

absolutely not. A bull float would be a total disaster lol. Not even a fresno would work. The only concrete tool used for microtoppings is a trowel.

@@freestylmx311 Oh? Why is that? I don’t know the differences between them.

Thanks D.C. If you sand the concrete down to a nice smooth finish, you should be able to go straight over with the micro cement! I did this over pieces of plywood flooring, and I didn't tape the joints. So, it has cracked along the plywood flooring joints. But, I also did this in my bathroom and it was a concrete slab, and there have been no problems with it.

@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject maybe screwing in the plywood to the joists & filling in the seams with a floor patch first would help avoid cracks

I like the feel of it. It is smooth, without being slippery. Make sure that you use an anti-slip sealer. I would say it keeps the cold, similar to tile

why he was wearing a respirator makes no sense unless he just likes to. There is no need for one at all during the microtopping application. Only use one if you use a potent sealer. Any water based sealer and you dont need one either

Supposedly, you can get away with just one coat. But, I am going to do a second layer to smooth out the inconsistencies in the floor. The polyurethane needs to be 3 coats to seal it.

Its holding up great, except for the cracks along the joints. That's my bad though, I should have taped them first before applying the microcement

That one he’s done will %100 crack,

Thanks Elodie! I just used common board 1x3" and stained it with English Chestnut, 1 coat.

There is! You'd want to tape the joints with fiberglass mesh tape first, and then go over it.

Congrats on the new home! Head to concreteexchange.com and search for Surecrete Microtek One Coat Topping, and all the details will be there for you

I did not, but in retrospect, I wish I did to prevent cracks and to make the substrate more stable.

Thanks Richard! I’m not getting any cracking, but because the topping goes on so thin, you can still sort of see the distinction between boards

@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject currently planning for this on advanctech subfloor (over radiant heat). Any suggestions on keeping those seam lines minimal?

Hi Lou, if you look at some of my other videos, I show how to limewash walls :)

If you want to do a cementaceous wall treatment, you could go for a "feather finish" type cement from Henry or Ardex, and just apply it to the walls in thin layers with a putty knife or scraper. It's a pretty cheap and surprisingly easy project. Once you finish a layer, you let it set up, then you can sand it a little and do another thin layer over wherever you need. Plus if you want it shiny you can just sand it to a really high grit, or you can use a layer of a wet look style sealer and it'll make it really nice and glossy.

@@AtomDavis thanks ! thats great :)

@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject Thanks! yup i've checked out a couple :) love the vids, definitely keep making them!

I have the same question

You could, but I've noticed the microcement gets a little gummy if its not thin, maybe I just didn't mix it enough... but, you can give it a shot. If its too hard to work with, you can always add more water.

I heard him mention limestone at the beginning. I would assume white based on how it looks dried.

Unfortunately, it did crack along the wood joints... I am applying new microcement in my bathroom over a concrete slab, which should be nice and crack free.

@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject hello could you please give us an update on your bathroom? I was told to put epoxy first and thrown on resin. It sounds to messy and would rather do what you are doing. Since I have water heat and radiators all over my house. And by concrete slab do you mean typical mixture of concrete and just lay it on the wood?

I wasn't... I do feel like the color of the finished floor is much lighter than the swatch online... I think in the future I'll use my own color pigmentations

@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject Where do you find color pigments? Thanks!

I've only given it one later of Polyurethane and its held up well. I could see adding a new layer in a year or two.

it has portland cement in it as well as fine sand, polymer and most likely has some plasticizer in it

You can :)

That individual is not here to show how it is done. He is here to collect money from views. Plenty of people that have no idea how something is done like to watch videos and get "inspired" to do it themselves. Plenty of other people are ready to give them that "inspiration". It is all fine and dandy until you see unsafe and outright dangerous practices. Watch any DIY garage floor video and you will see a fool with a Home Depot shop vac grinding concrete. Telling them that this is super dangerous (fine dust in your lungs for life) means nothing. People still watch the stupidity, praise the fool, and the he gets money. Look at most comments below - "nice job", "awesome", "beautiful", "thanks".... jesus christ.

yes, acid stain or any other type of concrete dye

You can, I did that in my bathroom. Works great

@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject thank you so much! I have a big project ahead of me.

Base coats will if prepped correctly

That's definitely the way to go, Tom! It's worth the extra time

@@MtWashingtonWeekendProject @tommockel8853 what primer do you recommend for Microtek?

It cracks at the joints, unless you tape them

My question as well

From other users, the only solution if you didn't like it is to grind it off.