@Jason Rosinger absolutely, but it still needs limit switches to cut down the number of operator induced crashes

I agree about the switch. I would use a shrouded rocker that defaults to off. That way it can't accidentally be bumped, and the operator has to physically hold the button in the direction of movement.

That would be entirely up to personal preference. I personally don't think that they are 100% necessarily buy im sure other people would see them as a necessity.

@@artisanmakes This is true, but we all know how mistakes are made. You click down to lower the head, turn away for a moment and next thing you know, you've crashed the Z axis. We love your channel and are just offering advice based on mistakes we've all made. Keep up the great content bud!!!

@@artisanmakes In this case it's not so much a case of personal preference, and more of safety.

Thankyou Matty, glad you enjoyed it.

That's not something to worry about because the motor isn't connected to the power supply unless im toggling the switch and in that case the motor would be running

Cheers, the spec sheet says its rated for 4 amps dc so i'm probably sitting right on the limit. Still haven't settled on the exact set up for the table feed, but a nema 34 stepper certainly is the likely option. Cheers.

@@artisanmakes On-Time(your Powerfeed) / Rated-Time-at-max_current(of your switch) = UF(Usage-Faktor). Max_current(of your switch) * UF = The_current_we_maybe_can_get_away_with ... :) In short, that just means that you don't use continuous operation, so ... let's ignore the good advice from Wiz:P This broad interpretation is only based on the thermal aspects. If the currents are larger (i.e. much larger), parameters such as the spark gap or the contact material come into play. These are then simply not able to switch these currents and ensure that the switch wears out quickly. Or worse: The switching contacts STICK(=DESASTER)!!! For this reason, this power feed should also be supplied via the standard machine emergency stop mains net. Another safety aspect is the type of switch. You can take a look at image search. Toggle switches, up and down buttons or, in the case of expensive models, real levers(with haptic feedback) are usually used as switches for power feeds. This has the reason that one does not accidentally switch. Switches such as the one you used tend to break off and get stuck in one (possibly switched on) place.... So choosing the right switch is a crucial safety issue here, especially as they are used to control a moving part! I don't see it that narrowly now, but maybe you should think again and look at the many other (preferably professional) solutions and get some inspiration from there. As always, your limbs will thank you in the long run... :) Oh and thanks for the video!

@@artisanmakes TLDR; Instead of dirty botches, RTFM: take a look at the datasheet of the switch. They usually give the peak current and related timings.

Glad you enjoyed it, cheers

I have a 50lbs gas spring on my LMS550 (SX2.7) and it's about the perfect balance. May do a power feed someday.

A simple pulley and counterweight if a strut proves hard to come by or too difficult to fit. A strut's a great idea for longevity of a leadscrew too although you may go through a few struts per leadscrew... or many.

I have seen that mod done on those x2 mills, but I don't think that I have seen it done on these larger mills.

Attach with an L bracket on the bottom casting and another one on the head on the right side so it tucks in behind the z hand wheel McMaster 4138T62

Thabkyou, we don't have mcmaster where I live but I might try and source something similar

Neat, didn't know that the 3.5 had that feature built in

@@artisanmakes the 3.5 doesn't have it it's only the 3.5DZP

I would say that that choice is up to personal preference. Personally I don't see a huge need for it.

Me too... My arm is hot just for watching 🤣🤣

Cheers, certainly something to consider

@@artisanmakes I'm not sure if it will need to have an e-stop given it operates on a momentary switch - in theory can't stay on. But there's theory and then there's practice...

Im the switch is rated for 4A according to the box, so I'm sitting right at the limit, we'll see how it goes but a replacement should only be like $5 if it goes. Cheers

I used this motor from jaycar www.jaycar.com.au/55rpm-12vdc-reversible-gearhead-motor/p/YG2738 I'm sure that there are other geared motors that you can find on ebay, I bought this one simply because I live near the store. All you are really paying for is the gearbox anyway. Cheers.

@@artisanmakes thank you!

I believe they are metal gears

you might want to look at the gibs inv the head, they might need adjusting

Got me wondering too but its not too different to the priest tools design. Same motor, just a different gearbox.

You could make the case for a stepper motor, but for a cnc you'd really want to replace the leadscrew for a ballscrew. Cheers

When I get a bigger workshop :)

It doesn't need to be, its not connected to the power supply unless the switch is toggled

@@artisanmakes I remember that now. I should've watched it twice, lol. While I have your attention, I would like to recommend using a cup wheel in the mill for a makeshift surface grinder, if you ever need one. Have a good one.

Power drawbar has been something that I've been thinking about for a very long time

@@artisanmakes I wonder if it is possible to reuse/repurpose a battery impact driver, plus a plunge drill/router base, similar to how people setup the butterfly air ratchets for bigger mills..

All up it was about $80 AUD

Its at the current limit but it works

@@artisanmakes ok

I never said I use it for drilling, I use the quill for that. But you do need to raise the head to fit larger drills

This is the biggest mill I could fit into. This workshop. It's not my workshop so I have to work with the people I share it with. Cheers

Cheers, this switch is at the current limit, I'm sure it'll last but if it burns out I'll replace it with something like that.