Not an issue if you fab/install an after-cooler between pump and tank. Otherwise, you are on to something.

Alan Cooper a

Yelp I installed mine at 25 feet away from the compressor

YEAH

You can accomplish even more with a proper after cooler between the compressor and tank. It is a very good idea to keep the water out of the tank in the first place.

I don't know of any addons that could be put in between the compressor and the tank. Some compressors have this built into the compressor. I don't know of any aftermarket solutions

It is probably because the air needs distance from the compressor to cool off before the water will condense and then be captured by the filter. In this case, the desiccant.

#Tinygarage

I put everything in the video notes. 1/2" Jumbo Desiccant Dryer System PN 1072-2, www.miltonindustries.com/1-2-jumbo-desiccant-dryer.html

Yes, the goal is to cool down the air before it gets to the dryer. Cool air is easier to dry then hot moist air. in normal daily use I have not had any issue. I have an 80 gallon tank and an automatic tank drain. However when I am doing heavy use. the dryer can't keep up being that close. it gets over saturated and can let moisture through. That was the trade off I had to make in my tiny garage. If I am doing sand blasting I have to stop every 30 min or so and let everything cool down.

@@FlashPerformance ok thanks. I went ahead and finished my 3/8 with hi-flow lines last night on my 21 gallon compressor. But rather than going by the setup illustrated I went more towards a hookup for 60 gallon the book showed. I did a 3 foot line to a T with drain link and 25' foot hose to run up,over and back down to another T with drain link. And that's linked off to filter and 2nd 25 foot for tools. It's only 125psi so if I need more for an impact I'll just directly hook up the second 25 to tank

Easiest way to do this is with a forced air after-cooler between the pump and tank. Keeps condensate out of the tank for the most part and does a better job keeping hot, saturated air out of your system even with the pump running. My inlet temp to the radiator is about 280 degrees and outlet is a few degrees above ambient. My inline water separator keeps the water out of the tank.

I ain't got one.

duct tape.

@@Freaksnake seriously. what type of bracket would you use to support that to the wall thats long enough.

Yes, I got those directly from Milton # S-1163-14 www.miltonindustries.com/frl-modular-system-mounting-bracket.html

If you need dry air first go to ebay order gallon of silica beads. 2nd go to any hardware store. I've made several different degrees of cost. I've used 2 inch 2 foot of pvc with couplers and 2 inch to half inch then half to a quarter. With steel wool packed in each end and half gallon of beads. I remove the half Inch fitting use pliers remove steel wool and empty and reheat the beads. $15 Design 2, 3/4 inch brass connects 6 inch long. With a coupler to join then. And red couplers 3/4 to 1/4 brass is known as the cold metal. $30. Abd I've made one out of 48 Inches of 1 inch of black iron pipe. 1 Inch to 3/4 couplers then 3/4 to 1/4 none have ever impeded air or given me dryer air in my life. I run 2 or 3 compressors non stop for painting all 110vi use a 3 to 1 in reverse. Plug the 3 hose lines into my air dryer then to my lowes 7 gallon reciever tank. Actually getting rid of those wall mount ones increased my air flow a good bit just using my dessicant filters with steel wool in the ends. And if somehow a beed made it past it goes into a storage tank and not into my airline. Never had a problem. And I use 25or 50 foot lineson my compressors to let the air cool some. With so much dessicant it's all that's needed and I live where its 90% or higher humid year round. Rarely rarely ever get low humid days even in winter. You dont need all this fancy systems to have dry air. $15 in pvc and half gallon of gel $15 and I'm willing to bet my 15 dollar design would have lower humidity coming out the air line then this contraption and have better airflow. Your systems weakness is its smallest restricted flow point. If you need more filtration use it at point of use dont constrict it right out the compressor. Take one of those store bought ones apart and look at them sometime.

Thanks. You save me from having to watch the video. Incidentally, I don't think a 1/2" circle is only twice the size of a 1/4" circle.

James Smith do a video, too much reading

The holes are not threaded, they are drilled for self tapping screws. I had the same issue with I first got mine. I tried to make brackets for it and it just didn't work out right. I ended up getting a set of Milton mounting brackets and it included the screws. www.miltonindustries.com/frl-modular-system-mounting-bracket.html

Flash Performance l

Flash Performanc

That's what I was just thinking.

Just run 50ft copper pipe and 100 dollars filter than

First is the regulator, second is a moisture trap (takes out the heavy moisture) last is the desiccant dryer. I don't show an oiler in this video.

I would say shame on you for supporting a Chinese company when you can buy some thing that’s made in the United States

@@baboon50 Don’t worry, I bought a Hayden transmission cooler, a Parker auto drain dryer and a used “made in Minnesota” Axial fan in a square used housing. Unfortunately, I decided to wire in the fan to the compressor power supply instead of a separate 110 plug, so I had to buy a Dayton 220 fan that is made in China. All my Milwaukee power tools are made in China, my recent craftsman tools are made in China, my Ridgid miter stand is, my delta table saw is, Jet horizontal band saw is, the alternator on my car. The days of the little guy standing on top of the “I only buy American” mountain is good in principle, but impossible to practice. Greedy corporations have been allowed by greedy politicians, to build everything off shore or in Mexico (like my Can am)! I thought it was made in Canada! I was pissed!