Nice job! 2 notes : with 1 missing bolt the down force is not perfectly distributed across the surface and perhaps you could wait or postpone the final torque. Not a big deal anyway. 2 you could use the old crankshaft seal to push in place the new one then on top a wide piece of wood that you could hammer in centre to distribute the force equally. I think it would be safer for the new seal... It looks so good and clean I can't wait to see it started🤩

Great to see another N14 video George. I just finished my N14 build a month ago. A couple observations/tips: Grab a couple extra VANOS bolts. Chances are you won't need them, but it's $10 insurance to make sure the project keeps going instead of waiting for a couple bolts if things don't line up quite right. Don't reuse the 3 timing chain bearing bolts (The silver ones from outside the block). They have a nasty habit of shearing off where the threads meet the shank when you try to pull torque on them putting them back in. TIS instructions mention to lightly oil the threads of the main bearing gridle and cylinder head bolts. When I took the bolts out of their packaging (I went with oem bolts for main bearing and elring for cylinder head bolts), I found the threads to have some debris like a couple burrs and dust and what not. That made be cleaned them all off with brake clean and re-coat them with a little engine oil. The 2 blind plugs that covers the last pair of main bearing bolts should get a light smearing of rtv to prevent oil seeping out. Tap them in with a deep socket. I also used an elring oil pan gasket. 12nm felt like too little clamping force and indeed I found a couple bolt that let a little oil seep out over a couple hundred KMs. I re-tightened the bolts to 15nm and the leaks have not returned. I'm thinking 12nm may be the torque when used with rtv like the TIS steps. Look forward to your next video!

When I replaced my timing chain, I was advised to soak the new chain in oil overnight prior to fitment. Glad you did the same sir👍

Great job George can't wait to see it back in the car and running have a Great Christmas

Really enjoying this engine rebuild. Great video as usual. Happy Christmas mate

Thanks for the video George, I have been looking forward to seeing the reassembly

You cannot place the VVT ​​sprocket inlet camshaft randomly as 10 out of 10 do on KZfaq, the arrow at the back must point upwards so that the self-adjusting space in the sprocket is centered in the middle so that the ECU can adjust equally to the left and to the right. The 4 oil holes are also opposite each other, although the difference cannot be measured.

Excellent mate. Keep it up, have a great Christmas.

Of course, you can reuse head gaskets, especially metal ones

Great video George. Happy Christmas 😎

Looking forward to the first start up, when I started mine for the first time after a rebuild I had everything crossed 😁

Nice work George👍🏼

Well done mate👍

Well done George

Good job👏. Merry xmas.

The exhaust camshaft bolt is 20Nm plus 90degrees, not 180 degrees.

If the digits on the camshaft are at the bottom side and you do a full rotation the digits are at the bottom again ;-)

Hi George which tool kit would be best for replacing rear bushing on bmw e92?

You turned the crank pulley bolt 360 degrees .. I was waiting for it to snap!

Usual BMW con trick.

thank you for the video! does everything you just did in this video and the previous one goes the same with the N18? or there is some difference?

Hi, great video, wouldn't it be ideal to put the pistons at 1/2 stroke before you put the cylinder head on initially? Depending on the positions of the camshafts would you not risk touching a valve?

The timing chain bolt on top needs an aluminum washer seal.. On a N18 enigne for sure, maybe on the n14 not

Hi i have a bmw e90 320d just wanted to know is it normal to feel some engine sound in the cabin as well or is it something to worry about

How much roughly did the rebuild cost you? Im debatiing doing the same with all genuine parts. Great work keep it up!

Nice video! Just asking why you haven't used arp bolts😅

I didnt see what position the crank shaft should be in when putting the sprocket in place. The cams are locked but the crank is moved multiple times during reassembly. Is it #1 TDC? These videos are fantastic!

Nice Vid George, using this as a guide for rebuilding my n14. What timing chain did you use? At the end you say Iwis but there's a Febi box?

🙌🙇Thanks for the videos! Since you rebored the cylinder in the block, do you not need to "resize" or get a head gasket to account for the fractionally larger cylinder?

Don't see no crankshaft oil seal .

Great to see the mini back in the videos, out of interest, what’s the costs involved?

❤👌

Can anyone recommend me a good torque wrench, tempted by Halfords advanced but they’ve put prices up and the ranges aren’t quite what I’m looking for. 20-200nm don’t mind digital, or fancy. Cheers?

I would of just done one bolt at a time, I wouldn’t of used new bolts in the first place, certainly wouldn’t of bought new bolts twice 😂 been doing that for years no probs 👍

George i wish you would keep your hand out of the camera in your vids!!!!

Such a stupid design on how the timing chain cover is part of the engine casing.

One click on a torque wrench is enough.

stop with the multiple clicks of the torque wrench. once is enough