Looks like there was two different crossovers for these speakers by comments here and the pair I have. Also reading comments on the forum here audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/mission-700-le-speakers-rebuild-upgrade.967086/

I bought some smaller Mission speakers replaced the poor condition electrolytic capacitors with some better grade caps. They are nice living space speakers, not over bearing, very accurate. Your balanced quality set up is sweet.

Sorry to see you go Michael. I very muched enjoyed your videos you gave a fair review on what you thought and can not say fairer than that. Showing that you can get a decent little system for not a lot of dosh. Always pointed out that its only your taste and opinion. Good on you

Well that is pretty much how mine sound. I'm glad you could fix them up.

Synchronicity, as I gutted my old 1988 700 LE as the baffle was rattling and they sounded fragile and tinny. The chipboard construction is very 1985, the first year of production basically, the plastic injection moulded baffle has cross square ribs for strength but it lacks mass and rings. I applied countless layers of upvc glue until it was filled and flush. I then cut a 9mm ply interior carcass to reinforce the box and bonded it with layers of upvc clamped over night. Then tailored bitumen sound damping sheets to cover every inch of the inside interior to reduce unwanted resonance, then rebuild the crossovers using ICW polyester capacitor on a cork board and wired it with QED Bronze cable, vastly superior to the anemic 49 strand cables. The rear spring terminals have been replaced with binding posts for banana plugs, the baffles are now installed with a non shrinking polyurethane not silicone, it's never coming off again, the waddling was replaced with soft loose wool, new drive unit gaskets and soon a new veneers or potential epoxy coating the outside cabinets. The weight of each speaker doubled, mass is important for imaging, I may install a auxiliary resonator but I'll test the system first. The time taken has been ridiculous but I love these 700LE's

Another interesting one buddy and like number 12 from me. Jim🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿🙂

Thanks for speaker recap Michael shame ur unwell. ur accent makes a change from the usual boring middle class types... Hope back in action soon

At this vintage the ferrofluid goes hard in the tweeters this is easy to change, I always check ESR leakage and capacitance of the caps generally they hold up fairly well but I usually replace with high quality polyester caps that last forever and then I test the crossover for performance.

Hope you get this Michael. Nice recovery job I used polyester film caps a 2.2uf and 3.3uf as shown in artical and added 1/2 foam to all sides. They sound fantastic to my ears. Hope to see some more videos in the near future.

Every speaker I have upgraded since 1998 from electrolytics to polyester, mylar or metal poly sound much better. Simply, more neutral and open. More detail/clarity. The weak link in budget speakers is often the cheap high ESR electrolytics and iron core inductors..

Have you ever listened to any Energy speakers 2.1e or 3.1e or 4.1e they are Canadian made around 1996. Keep your eyes open and make sure the tweeters are good and enjoy the warmth. Ive got a Sansui 551 and you know its got bass and the Energy go low but still have the highs and clarity to match. Cheers.

super interesting, I have the same ones but one of them has issues under load. maybe i can replace the caps as well to see if this improves them

Weirdly Mike, I have found that some of the Missions I had didnt go well with an Hitachi receiver I had, yet I remember pairing up a pair of Celestion DL4 speakers and they paired well and that receiver sounded a lot better. With the Missions it sounded dull.

Going to miss your vids Michael. Much thanks as you made me play around with caps ect... next poject for me is some KEF C60's in mint condition but tweeters are poor. What will i watch with my morning coffee with out you ? top bloke and thanks for sharing.

Hi Michael, if you like these speakers and want to keep them, it could be worth while investing in some really good capacitors.

Halo , Sir.! Can i ask do you change the original speaker at tweeter and woofer side ? tq

Hi Michael. Do you know if theres any records/manuals online on speaker caps used on specific speakers. I know amps do with hifiengine. Its just id like to replace the caps in my cresta kef 2's. Ill prob have to just open them up first.

Oh yeah, I saw that website too you are referring to. Didn't he pair these with an 80s Rotel receiver? He said he was happy with the pairing. I can't remember which receiver it was but it was definitely 80s, the black faceplate era.

So you got rid of the Celestion 3's?

I'm not sure what you're doing you just swap the capacitor for a different type!? it's only got a inductor on the woofer driver, and a capacitor and resistor first order as well on the tweeter. what you could do is try and get a 40k or around that figure 38-45k 3 Watt non-inductive metal film resistor across the inductor, this would increase the mid-range better, looking at it it looks like it's lacking in mid-range but very difficult to tell from a picture without hearing them, this will increase the upper frequencies as well so you might need to increase the resistor on the tweeters. try non-inductive 0.7 ohm 2W in line. What's in there about 1.2ohms? yeah the plastic baffle on the tweeter lets it down you can deal with this can you take it off or get to it from the back? make some plaster of Paris and PVA glue about 60% glue to 40% plaster mix. and pack in the back it's probably got ribs fill the ribs up half an inch, it will help a lot. I've done this before with these types of baffles rubbish there are. make sure you paint the plastic first with PVA glue and let it go clear before you put the mixture on so give it 6 hours before applying and should be a gasket round the baffle put a bead of blu tack as well when putting it back will prevent smearing. also I found if the plastic surround of the tweeter is to stick with contact adhesive a disc from an old hard drive works really well over the top. that makes it sound much more lively but not brittle or sibilance just gives it more presents sounds more real. let the plaster of paris go off give it 24 hours before tilting it or putting it back. oh and remove the tweeter of course find a bit of cardboard tubing or something similar some tape even around the opening. oh and where the gasket is don't put plaster of paris leave that untouched just the bead of blu tack. one thing with that plastic baffle it's square so you could put the tweeter to one side, this might actually sound better it might need crossover tweaks to achieve ultimate but it's worth trying! I always think the tweeter is better to on the side than directing line.