I hope my mistakes have been helpful for your 3d printing journey. Click here to watch me print a GW Battleforce Box: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/hqlydtN1z9DLaHU.html

Regarding failed prints. Depending on how complete they are and the Games you are playing, they can be casualties . Say an arm gets blown off or leg gets cut clean through with a sword. You finally get to use that blood red paint you have been saving. You get the idea. Melt a few as well everyone uses that dam fireball anyways!!!

I've been resin printing for a couple of years. You have offered good, relavent advice to beginners. I however, am still guilty of having too many STL suppliers. You CAN collect so many STL files that you can become paralyzed on what to print next.

Thats good to hear someone else backup the theory of very slow or very fast lift speeds. 180-240 lift and 300 down for me. I have a half second delay before the UV comes on to give the resin a little time to settle back under the print. One tip I have is, after washing but before removing supports, soak them in very hot water, not boiling, but as hot as you can get away with and still put your hands in. Leave them for a min or so and it really helps loosen the supports which reduces the scaring when you take them off, half the time they will just fall off.

Tip: You don't have to put your resin back in the bottle every session. You can leave it in there for days, weeks. This way you won't be tempted to try cleaning your FEP and thus wearing it/scratching it. Also, paper towels are bad for cleaning the FEP, if you must clean it then get the resin out (large 250ml syringe) then soak up for rinse out the remaining with IPA and then gently clean the film with a clean microfiber cloth, NOT paper towels. Paper towels can leave it cloudy, just pushes the resin all over and you're left with a cloudy FEP. The microfibers are key to sucking up that cloudiness and leaving it clear!

I went to check my resin settings and my lift speed was PERFECTLY in the middle of the dead zone, which explains why my prints suck. Thanks for the awesome tips! :D

I'm about to take the step and purchase my printer. It's incredible how many people have such great advice across every line of model and through all experiences. Every video I watch and comment i read teaches me something I didn't know that I am better off knowing. So I thank the creators and the community. Much love guys❤

One of the big lessons for me was that hollowing my prints decreased the wear and tear on my FEP.

Awesome tips! Thanks for the video. I just started resin printing this week. Really enjoying it so far

It's funny, I've had virtually all of these issues while learning resin printing! Great list and explanations!

I been printing with the halot one for the last 3months and only had a hand full of fails and that’s only because of videos like this one!!! Plus the set up is super easy right out of the box!

Thank you for your list! Made the Nr. 11 myself and would also add Nr. 15: leaving your IPA container open for many hours (even without direct sunlight it evaporates fast).

Thank you so much for producing this video. Helps a lot!

Nice video! I've had a print fail because I was printing too fast, and learned to dial the speed in correctly. The units matter a lot!

Nice video!!! I’m just getting into resin printing. Great suggestions. Honestly, the more I learn about resin 3d printing, the more I feel I don’t know. But, I’m trying as I’ve invested too much money to fail! In also have a Creality Halot Sky printer. I think my next print is the Congress of calibration AFTER I update firmware startings! Great tips!

I love Water-Washable resins and i swear by them. The cleanup process is less smelly, easier, and less likely to dry my skin or give me headaches

As someone who is looking to get a resin printer bundle sometime this month, this is extremely helpful advice! Like Num.12, I would've never thought to wear gloves or a mask when using resin or curing, but now I know I'll have to keep some in supply

4years FDM and no resin printer but I’ve followed the tech and some of your advice is still useful for makers like me. like splitting up large prints into smaller pieces in case of failure you can reprint the pieces instead of wasting product. Appreciate the candid advice

My biggest advice for those in colder climates is to make sure your resin is warm enough! You can buy a fermentation belt to help but cold resin is more viscous and increases print failures and decreases overall quality

I've been thinking of getting 3d printer for a long time now. I saw some pretty good deals online, and that brought me to you channel. After pouring over loads of your videos, I pulled the trigger. I love 3d printing, and your videos have made it really easy to get into. Thank you, and keep up the great work.

nice to see a fellow Halot one appreciator, I've had mine over a year, I must say I haven't bothered with dialling in the resins with the calibration tools etc. I just estimate given the resin parameters anbd its basically always been fine, for example my current product says 5-15 seconds and I just go at about 6.4 seconds and works fine. Also changing the location of your prints in the bed not only saves your FEP (cheap and easy to replace) but its also saving your LED screen (much harder to replace).

Awesome video! I'm in the process of buying my first resin printer (have a FDM atm). This was just honest and quick tips. Much appreciated. You my friend get a sub!

i've been taking a serious look at resin printing over the past month or so as i will be getting back into scale modeling for the first time in 25 years. i've watched these helpful videos from many different youtubers, and based on all the information i've gotten, i can reasonably conclude at this time, resin 3D printing is just not for me. when i can free up more space at home and more time in my schedule, and get more serious about what i need to do with models (body kits, wheels, tires) then i'll give it a shot. but for now i think it's best i just look online for custom parts. thanks a bunch for the helpful tips. you saved me my own brand of nightmare. i hope to update a few years from now with good news of me finally getting into this.👍

My biggest tip for anyone is make sure you have enough holes in your prints so resin does not pool inside a print. A hole at the top and a hole at the bottom of the item is best for airflow and cleaning.

You know, I laughed at you when you talked about securing the build plate. Got my 3d printer, must have done it 2-3 times now. Thanks for all the tips!!

Thanks dude! Your videos is helping a lot, just got my printer set up this week, let see how it goes =). CheerS!

I have a mars 2 and have had only a few failures, all of which were the result of the model orientation. My biggest tip would be to orientate your model with the majority of the mass (like the body) closest to the build plate, with the lightest parts (like the limbs) printing last.

Thank you for this. I will be unboxing my Halot One and the UW01 Wash/Cure when I get home today and your video will be of great assistance on this journey. o7

I once forgot to bolt down my vat and came back an hour later to the build plate lifting the vat full of resin up and down

Good stuff. My Elegoo Mars 3 comes in tomorrow along with their wash and cure. Hope to avoid some mistakes after watching this

I'm going to buy my first resin printer soon and I am really scared to be totally devistated thinking I'm too stupid for it because I would do things wrong I don't understand, but your video helped a lot :) Now I know what I should look out for! Sure there still will be things that will go wrong because of settings and such, but I know now what other things could happen and why. Made me a bit braver! Thank you very much ♥

Great video, great tips. Recognized your not fastening the build plate, had a similar moment of shame: forgot to fasten my vat, also a recipe for disaster.

I'm waiting for my anycubic 4k to arrive now so I think this os going to be one of the best channels to actually get help with it as a noob! Lol

Thanks it really helped me,since there is not so much info about the Halot One

Fantastic video!

One other thing to mention is the recommended printing temperature by the Resin manufacturer per brand and or type of resin. Printing at a room temperature below the recommendation will result in higher resin viscosity resulting in failed prints due to the additional drag when the print lifts which can cause separation of part or all of the print as well as support contact points tearing away from the actual print object. Also, when you do a validation print like the cones of calibration, make a note of the room temperature as it only takes a few degrees Celsius lower than the minimum recommended temp to invalidate the calibration.

You are the boss bro!!! Thank you a lot!

Great tips! Definitely try different resins. The cheaper resins are cheap for a reason :)

I'm designing a resin printer (have only used FDM) so this was insightful.

i fail many times in the step 7 ,but now i fixed and sub ...👌🏼👌🏼👍🏼👍🏼

I'm considering starting 3D printing and this video's a big help. Forewarned and all that. Thank you. Subscribed )O(

some great tips, don't forget resin temperature, that was causing all sorts of problems until i realized it was a factor in fails.

Tip: oil up and dry the FEP with PTFE 3 if your prints keep sticking to VAT. Also slightly sanding Build plate. But some buildplates come pre sanded like Elegoo Saturn 3 I believe. I bought a Saturn 3 after too many failed prints with Mars 2 Pro..stupid of me but I'll need 2 for my BJD business anyway...but will try the cone calibration test before printint. Will also get a space heater as its like 60° IN my house always.

suction force... make sure to add drain holes if your model allos it. ive just used ggreen stuff and/or resin to fill the hols and tada... but reduces suction cup issues

5 failed prints so far. Did a lot of research too prior to purchase. Was getting pissed, lol, did research into fixes and making some progress. Alas I come here and your cones of calibration seems like what I might need. We have same resin printer. Thanks, almost gave up hope lol.

Funny you should say about tightening the build plate I always remember that, but have twice now forgotten to screw the vat down - first when I got the printer, second after cleaning it (had the printer about a week) So I've stuck a post-it on the machine to remind me

One very important thing you forgot. Ambiant room temperatures. In warmer parts of the world less of a problem, if you live in colder regions your gonna want to get that room temp up to between 20 and 30C as the warmer it is, the more viscous your resin is, less print failure. Also depends what your printing but generally speaking you cant expect great results if your printing in a cold room.

Thank you !!!

wahoo, just click you over till 500 likes. nice video man. feel like I've missed out on 5 minutes of unboxing.

Nicely done. Subscribed.

Awesome video 😎 thank you

I have the exact same printer as you and literally got it yesterday. I must say your video helped me out so much but as this is my first printer I'd love more tips and so on.

Awesome content. Thanks for posting. In the video, you mentioned an article you read and said you'd link it, but I don't see the link. I'm really interested to read it.

Also don't ever forget to secure the resin vat down before printing. I may have done that tonight and ended up with a suspended resin vat that was attached to my build plate 😂😂

Thank you for this video. Yes, I was concerned with the learning curve. And that although very cool... you almost need a full month of trial and error starting out. My wife has some concerns about the chemicals as I would probably have to do this in the Garage. I still not sure if I want to go this route yet. May stick with filament for now... I am looking for more of a plug n play 3D Printer setup.

I got an elegoo with elegoo resin and it basically worked right out of the box. I even forgot to tighten the build plate and it printed perfectly

I am just starting with resin printing for miniatures for my tabletop games. I am using the water washable resing at the moment but I'm having trouble with the removal of my print off my print bed. after taking the printout and into the wash, when I tried to scarp my print off: 1. my scarper had a very difficult time just getting between the print and the bed AND 2. When I tried to scape/lift it off the bed, the print cracks/brakes. Any tips and or tricks?

I have the exact same printer and was wondering what your exposure setting were for the elegoo water washable resin. I just switched to this resin and have only gotten failed prints so far.

You need to point out that each resin change means finding the right settings again. It may sound like fun changing resins each print, but this is a huge paint. Cleansing the vat takes time, but failed prints inevitably damage the FEP. Tuning the printer for a resin often ends with failed prints. Another one is printer cleaning. The resin is pretty nasty and light inevitability makes cleanup difficult. Also point out humidity Amd temperatures effect printing so working to keep these constant is a key to success.

The hardest thing for me to for e myself to do is the ppe primarily the respirator but also not cross contaminating tools. Have a procedure and stick to it for cleaning the machine and your tools.

I had a lot of misprints like you. Models came loss from the supports and sticks to the FEP. My experience is that it's most of the time a problem with the supports. I use Lychee slicer and if you place supports at 0.00 mm into the object the issue increase. I always have my settings to 0.30 mm into the object. Lychee handles that setting different than ChiChubox dos. In Lychee the supports don't go in to the object for real. So an Island only sticks better on a support. My second collusion was slower lift speed and slower Retract speed. I set my lift speed to 1.8 mm/s and retract speed to 3 mm/s and lift the build platform 5 mm. I had more failures when this speed settings was higher (now I have non). The Lifthight can decrease/increase the print time in many minutes. 1 mm difference can save you 1 hour. Do not cure your botomlayers too long because the resin is too stuck on the FEP, and then you need a larger lifthight. Time settings...... just never change them again when you find the sweet spot. My opinion is that every Printer brand has his own setting. An Ellegoo printer can react different from an Anycubic and so on.

Honestly getting a good slicer program made it much better for me. I use to use like anycubics slicer but just got failure after failure. Then I switched to Lychee and bam, success

Also holes. If you’re doing a big print, you’ll naturally hollow it out. But without a hole the resin is being sucked up inside of the model each & every lift. (Think washing a cup & pulling an upside down cup above the water line with the water still inside) It creates a heap of unnecessary vacuum & will overload your supports mid print, leaving you with just a heap of ladders & the model in the vat. So tip. Using your slicer, Place a hole as soon as possible.

Thank you for this very informative and concise video! Do you have a recommended slicer software you prefer? I know that can play a big part in 3D printing.

Obscene lift speeds are such a big issue when troubleshooting failed prints. I see so many people wondering why their prints failed and, when you ask them to share their slicer settings, you see lift speeds as high as 360mm/m! Everyone is in such a rush these days, and they're baffled that their warp-speed settings didn't work, blaming their printer or resin when the real problem is that they're trying to run before learning how to walk (or even crawl). I think all of these 3D printing channels are doing a big disservice to the community by promoting Vroom settings without adding a disclaimer that people new to 3D printing need to get their printers calibrated & printing successfully at slower settings, first.

Funny you say you printed on the right side. Im currently struggling to get parts to stick on the left of my build plate. Also a Halot-One

My first print failed from not enough resin in the vat (or perhaps too ambitious a print). I'm surprised there aren't level indicators on the side of the vat for this reason, at least there aren't on the one in my anycubic.

Oh man, this is really helpful, thanks so much. A great idea for a video would be more examples of failed prints, specifically what was wrong, and what the solution was/were. eg: I'm getting this weird edge-lifting of flat-bottomed objects, making them look more like cartoon boat hulls. I think it might be a loose or sticky FEP, or plate crowding, or wrong initial exposure time duration, or not big enough skirt, or gypsy curse or something else, but there are frankly too many variables and not enough time available on the local library's "village bicycle" resin printer. So itemizing specific problems as a compilationin video would be gold to me. Thanks!

Just use the user settings on Lychee to get a good ballpark. My cones printed perfect the first time with various resin types.

thank you that helped a lot i would not have calibrated my exposure time

Wonder why Anycubic doesn’t put a microswitch onto the platform for the wash and dry station to know when the wash station is installed. This would allow the circuit to not be placed in wash mode unless the tank is sitting on the platform which would prevent the high speed spinning mistake when trying to cure the model.

this is a great video for beginners, something I'd like to add, is do not wash resin down the sink. Its bad for the environment

Actually I did experience a plug and play experience, but I did watch a ton of videos before my printer got here, so I had plenty of time to get tools, mask, gloves, a ventilated area to do it, and my anycubic is overall really nice. The problem with 3D printing is the time you need to take apart. Aside from that I recommend water washable resin is much easier to handle.

Thanks for a good video man! What resin were you using at 7min & 7:03min?

hELLO! Thank you for sharing this video. I'm really curious about the Lift Speed Deadzone thingy. Do you know where I can read more about it?

Hello. I have exactly the same machine and same resin, but to have a good calibration i have to put 4.5s exposure. What slicer do you use and do you use printer settings or slicer settings ??? Thanks.

Hi! As soon as my resin printer arrives I’ll be diving into the world of resin printing, though safety is a concern. Do you think having the printer in a desk on my bedroom safe? I planned to open my windows and go somewhere else while printing to avoid fumes. But I’m no expert :P so what can you suggest me?

I printed almost all of my first bottle (Phrozen Aqua Resin Ivory 4K, which I understand is actually good resin, but I picked just for the color), on a Mars 3 Ultra (not Pro). Also I don't have washing and curing machines, I just use a plastic box of alcohol and cure them in the Sun (of which lately there's very little - mostly clouds and rains). And so far I have zero fails! I'm quite surprised too. I've watched many videos on resin 3d printing and saw how many things can go wrong. Also when I started I did no settings in the slicer (chitubox). I opened the settings windows saw that I have no idea what I'm looking at and only set the printer to be my model in the slicer. The only issues I had so far is getting out the printed parts out of the build plate. Especially those I print flat, which I do for the miniatures base plates - being low profile and flat bottom seems waste (of resin and most of all - Time!) to angle them and support them, so I just put as many as I can for single print, and in 20~30 mins they're done. But yes the flat base plates are the hardest to remove from the build plate (but also the strongest so I don't shy of using extra force). And the other issues are that I broke 3 pieces when removing the supports (after I've removed them from the build plate). Fortunately 2 of the 3 breaks were clean and was very easy to superglue (the 3rd one was also clean, but I didn't notice it when removing the supports and I guess I've thrown the front of a female figurine foot in the trash). So as a result I got cocky and I printed a bracket to hold the build plate at an angle after printing to better drain the resin left on the build plate before washing it. I got that pre-supported (and clean stl of course) and I was going to print the supported version as usual, but I noticed some supports looking weird and unnecessary (and too thick), I played few minutes trying to fix just the weird ones, but I gave up, started with the clean STL, set supports to light (and even made them a bit lighter, down to 0.7mm thickness), printed it expecting epic fail and that I would have to finally drain the resin in the tub thru a filter to remove the failed parts (and avoid breaking my screen afterwards) ... I even hollowed the bracket and put few small drain holes because it seemed to me it has good potential to save on resin, while still being acceptably strong ... But I got a problem - it printed perfectly fine! Build plate removal and supports removal was much easier. Wasn't sure if the resin from inside the bracket was drained already, so after cleaning it and curing it a bit more in the sun I dared put my lips on one of the holes to blow in and see if any resin will get out, but nothing got out except for some air. So now I still have no idea what to do if something goes wrong :/ I'm going to buy a flex-plate to make prints removal much easier, and perhaps I'll get simple curing box (or put one myself - DIY style), and next I'll have to use the regular resins, so I wonder if there'll be any difference.

Hello, I'm a beginner with a HALOT-ONE and I'd love some advice if you're willing. I've just got a new bottole of Phrozen 8k gray resin and my prints are not sticking to the build plate at all. When I drain the tray, I see the first few base layers of the print stuck to the FEP. Do you have an idea of what might be causing this? My most recent bottom exposure layer was 5, base layer exposure time 35s, exposure time 2.5s. I have learned recently exactly what's happening in this printing process (thanks to you and other YTers!) and now I'm wondering if my FEP needs to be replaced.

The only STLs I’ve purchased are a guy who had a one time purchase on his etsy where he continuously updates a mega folder that contains all the STLs he makes, and it was like 70% off

Great video and tips, what type of mask and cartridges do you use? I've been into Bunnings and Blackwoods and they didn't really have an answer for me other than 3M Organic Vapour/Acid Gas Cartridge Filters? Is that right?

I’m just getting into res printing. What’s a good time to wash/cure models? Like how long should I wash/cure a small model vs a bigger model?

At the 2.55 minute mark on your video you show an empty vat but in the sections that show the screen there is static cling or moisture attraction happening on the screen. It looks like bubbles but it is major cause of print fails. Try cleaning the screen and underside of the vat with alcohol and pre warm the resin so during the peel process the suction is not pulling moisture out of the air and attracting it to the cold vat.

Any advice on making it as close to plug and play as possible? I want to 3D print to get cool minis not as a hobby in itself. Do you have a video on that?

hey i normally use FDM printing so i have no idea whats good for resin but i was wondering if you could reccomend some resin printers cause i do want some more detailed prints

Any advice with the halot one? I am having problems with printing rings,it prints the first layer and for some reason after that it will not print anymore layers but it's still moving. Iv calibrated,changed setting on the front panel and computer. I feel I might be missing something?

I have a question, everyone recommends a respirator but noone says what kind to get. What kind would you roccomend? Are there certain specs to look for?

I always leave my resin in the tank, it saves me time and effort. 🙌

Hey; great video but can I ask a couple of questions? I've been struggling with my 3D prints and would love your help. Should I remove the supports before curing or after? I use a water washable resin atm as I don't have a washing and curing station. Also I seem to be losing a lot of definition on the smaller models, could this be due to over exposure while printing? Can you over cure an item? And would you recomend any 3D programs to help do things like divide a model? Thanks and have a great day!

thanks bro. i am using pla material and i want to control it to be air proof what setting shall i change and increase for that goal?

I'm about 6 months in and I just paid into my first stl kickstarter. I did all of my first printing with free files. Once I got the hang of it, then I bought files.

Hi Im new to resin printing and currently at a 70% fail rate. For some reason the print is coming detached from the supports the raft applies itself well to the buildplate / any suggestions

9:30 A mask won't do much for fumes, you just need better ventilation if this is an issue, the mask is just a safety blanket at that point.

Nice video. I just got this same machine and have only printed the preloaded models so far but it's pretty fun! Have you had any issues converting files into the correct file type for the Halot One?

I do programming as a hobby, so I'm used to frustration over lots of trial and error and things failing constantly. I just bought my first 3d printer, a resin 3d printer at that. It'll be easy 🤣😎

If I were to program a little jiggle when the print is lifted out of the resin so that the resin could be jiggled out, would that effect the print?

thanks Habes and commenters. i only started resin printing minis a couple days ago and even though i have industry experience using resin printers; it seems wildly different

my mars 3 pro prints fine with normal resin but as soon as i switched over to water washable resin, failures every time

Recently started, and it's going great so far! Just struggling to figure out which resin to buy... and which ones in Australia won't break the bank! Any tips/hints?

I just bought the creality halot one and I had that fear that the 3k wasn't good enough to do models like I want to but I happened to stumble on your page and its a massive relief seeing how good your models look! Do you think the quality on the printer is good and you dont regret not buying a better, 8k one?