Cheers mate, happy to help

Cheers mate, easiest bit of the whole video :)

Thanks mate, glad it is of help. Always happily endorse FF thru regular KZfaq bullshit chitchat 🍻

thanks Gary, some more are coming soon

Thanks Dan, next one is replacing the in tank filter.

Thanks for your comment 👍and I totally agree with you Steve, I'm not sure why the rears don't come with the seal when the front ones do(!?).

Seems I jumped the gun, I just checked and the bearings are fine, must be the tyre noise I'm hearing. Anyway, I'll be sure to reference your video when it comes time to do them.

@@SteBren181 well, if it were me, I would have spent that money in my mind on new bearings already. Now you can spend it on something else ;)

You are right and I should have showed this

Awesome stuff 🤙

Love to see what you come up with

Nice tips!

Thanks for your comment, glad it helped

Thanks

Thanks 🙏

Thanks mate, hope it all goes well. How many k’s?

@@TravelingBanker just clicked over 200,000kms

@@kirkulessonofgoose7503 Solid. any issues with the bearings? Or preventative maintenance? Interested how you go extracting them

@@TravelingBanker the left rear has movement when jacked up and last time I drove it the wheel hummed and I could feel heaps of vibration through the vehicle, the noise and vibration went away whenever I turned left and weight was taken off that wheel lol I don’t know if it’s premature wear from spending a night stuck in a mud hole in the glasshouse mountains a while back 😂 I’ll let you know how it goes mate. There’s a video of my ns on ultimate diesel from a few years ago getting tuned. I had DPF issues last year so I deleted the old exhaust and got a 3 inch turbo back and a new tune from a different shop 🤙

@@TravelingBanker kzfaq.info/get/bejne/eJyAaqWAtLjMlH0.htmlsi=JQ9_Pnj4OSOQpbbb

Always worth a shot!

I'm interested to know if PB Blaster (suggested in comments) would help.

@@TravelingBanker Doubt any spray will do. When i replaced the bearing in front on my 01 mk3 it needed 13 tons to release the hub.

@@opelduude thats good to know

@@opelduude same problem. For next change prepare - use Cu paste to all rusty part's. I tested and work. After accident (change after 4 yars) was easy.

Thanks and interested to hear how you go with yours

Cheers mate, glad it helped

Bummer. They can be tough. Use heat. Anti-seize/penetrating spray. Breaker bar with a long bar on the end for leverage. Good luck!

That’s great to know it works on the Mk2s - thanks!

Thanks mate, tell us your story - what happened?

@@TravelingBanker great vid what brand aux tank do you have

mackerel mission Brown Davis

Thank you for your comment. I've not done an NM but it is theoretically the same part. If the bearing is real stuck you could take the hub bolts out and try driving the front of the flange sideways to rotate it in the knuckle. PS - love to hear how you go!

Thanks mate. Translucent kevlar safety boots 🤣

Happy to help mate

G’day, haven’t done the fronts as yet but will do in the next couple of months. Fronts are a bit easier and the LWB has a seal at the back of the hub that protects the bearing (so, it shouldn’t be rusted to the hub. Next video will be transmission replacement

Thanks mate. I don’t recall any washer and can’t find reference to it in the workshop manual.

Haha, cheers mate

Hi Gerald, apologies mate, I missed your comment. You’re spot on, with a castellated nut you put the split pin in the other way so one leg locks in the ridge of the nut and the other bends over the end of the shaft. The shaft nut isn’t castellated but has a locking ring over the top instead which is why I put the split pin in the way I did.

lots of it

Yep, fronts are easy

Thanks

03 is a gen 3 2006 onwards is gen4

Check out partsouq.com for the part number specific to your vehicle

The fronts are easier. From memory I didn't have to use the hammer on the bolt trick

Try not to burn the car down 🤣

EBay seller, Supertrim. Neoprene seat covers. They look great when new and fit very well. The colour fades a little with time but the fit is still tight.

I could hear a dull rumble from the rear when driving. Then jacked the rear up to checked the play in the wheel

@@TravelingBanker thanks. I've got a wooshing sound that gradually builds and intensifies at 60kph and mellows above 70kph. Also got new D697 so it's a bit hard to determine if it's the tires or bearings

Thanks mate. Currently editing video of engine swap from NX to NS, with engine ECU swap as well.

Yes, thanks for picking up this error.. I’ve corrected the description. I did the 4 hub retaining bolts as per faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/img/27/AC604028AC00ENG.pdf

​@TravelingBanker what was the 4 rear bolt torque buddy for holding the hub on.

​@@TravelingBankernever mind I just seen it's all in ya description

I never had any problems bleeding from the nipple on the back of the caliper with a brake bleed tool. These are the Mits instructions faq.out-club.ru/download/pajero_iv/maintenance/Service_Manual_2008_2013/2010/35/html/M135101470005801ENG.HTM

@@TravelingBanker Thanks for that. Are you going to do any further videos? Basic service items on the Paj would be good. It looks like your Paj has suspension upgrade. Are you happy with the results (handling, ride quality etc). Some say that lifting the Paj is asking for wheel bearing failure?

@@guanghunglo3594 It has a Dobinsons 2" lift kit and Airbag Man airbags in the rear. I am happy with the quality of it and it is set up good. There is a bushing on top of the struts in the front that usually needs to be replaced when doing the struts. I have not heard of suspension lifts causing wheel bearing failure. The wheel bearings on mine that failed were non genuine but lasted the 50,000km guarantee. I did a 20,000km trip with the car very loaded and on some rough roads which helped the rear ones to fail.. The bearings on the front are still OK. Appreciate your patience on more videos as I am moving house at the moment, I have 2 videos I am editing - a short one for towing mirrors and a long one relating to a transmission swap from a newer model. I was going to do a couple of videos on engine maintenance - checking engine compression, adjusting valve clearances, timing chain guide. What maintenance are you planning to do on your Pajero?

@@TravelingBanker Thank you for your reply. Planning on doing the 90k service soon on my NX Pajero. All service items apart from adjusting the valve clearances which I think would be beyond me and I feel probably unnecessary as the vehicle hasn't done any hard work or towing. I think an audible check would be all that is required in this case. Your thoughts? Things of interest would be: Diesel fuel filter change, Transmission fluid flush, Brake pad and rotor change, Radiator flush, Power steering flush, etc. There's a lot of info on the web but not all of it trustworthy nor specific to Pajero's. I may buy a lift kit and install it myself as can't really afford to have it done for me. My son is a Mechanical Fitter and he's pretty good on the tools. Just a bit worried as to how it would handle on the road in normal driving conditions? Your brake rotors look like the slotted type. Is this an improvement on the standard rotor? My fronts need replacing soon as I an getting some mild steering wheel wobble when applying the brakes lately and it seems to be only getting worse over time. Thanks & cheers.

@@guanghunglo3594 when the engine sounds a bit “rattly” when cold, is when I check the valve clearances. Thanks for your suggestions on service videos, I would do every one of these. For the fuel filter, I unbolt the assembly and change the filter outside of the car - using a vice and an oil filter wrench. I use a vacuum coolant changer tool when changing the coolant - it creates a vacuum using an air compressor (also checks for leaks) to refill the coolant without any air purging. I am a big believer in buying quality, reputable parts - you get what you pay for. I talked to Dobinsons, told them about my car and what I use it for and they recommended the right suspension springs for me. Car, for me, drives great. It is good you have your son to help you. If you and your son have the time to install, you learn a lot and no mechanic will care for your car more than you. The brake rotors are DBA brand. They are slotted and I believe this type of rotor to be better for my needs - stop/start work commute; towing; touring with load. All the best

Lol, happy to help mate.

G'day Rad, I didn't have an issue with the handbrake but have found what has worked for me in the past is to tighten the adjuster on the shoes until the rotor is locked and then back off the adjuster. Then adjust the handbrake to suit the stroke.

G’day, sorry, I don’t know much about previous model. The SWB models have the 12mm bolts in current gen - best to check part number against your VIN eg partsouq.com

Do you mean, I should clean the splines on the CV shaft before putting the new hub on?

I have no idea🤷🏼how did you progress? 🤔

Following

partsouq.com or amayama.com

Gday, it says this is a 2008 in the description. Which part do you think I could have done a better job? Interested to hear your method

Yep

Where

Not needed. What is needed is cleaning the splines of rust, dirt and burrs - i did not do that and should have showed it

Thanks for the suggestion. I will try this on my next project.

G'day, easiest way is to check on partsouq.com

Thank you!