Thank you, I'm glad it helped you out!

Thank you for the positive comment and I'm glad it helped you out! If you have to do the job again I would recommend getting a genuine master cylinder as I've found that the cheap ones don't last very long (usually 6 months to a year).

Glad it helped

Thank you!

Just take your time and double check all the steps and you will be fine. If you run into any problems feel free to drop me a message and I may be able to help out.

@@aguyandhisgarage Thanks mate, very kind of you.

Thank you for the positive feedback

Have you tried topping up the master cylinder reservoir with DOT 4? If it's a extremely small leak it can be difficult to find. If the oil level is dropping considerably try cleaning both the master and slave cylinder with blue paper towel so that both, and the area around is clean and dry so that you can check for external leaks. If you don't find anything and the level in the reservoir is dropping there is a good chance that the slave cylinder is leaking into the bell housing. To check this you can remove and see if the push rod looks like it has residue of hydraulic oil on it, or put a bore scope camera down inside to check for oil. I've never done a LHD so can't answer your second question, but I imagine space constraints would be similar. All the best with tracing it and let me know how you get on

Thank you, I'm glad it helped you out!

Hi, yes you are required to re-bleed the system after changing the master cylinder.

If it pushes out and you cannot see any leaks then it is more than likely the master cylinder. The same procedure to remove as this video. I have also uploaded another video on changing the master cylinder from the pedal to help guide you through that part

@@aguyandhisgarage The reservoir still has fluid. Level has dropped slightly. It’s a bit wet underneath by the oil pan. Just to clarify So I don’t have to do anything with the slave cylinder? just replace the master cylinder, and see if that fixed it?

@@alvarocruz9613 Yes, if it was the slave cylinder leaking it would be leaking into the gearbox bellhousing and you wouldn't see it externally. So its master Cylinder of one of the pipes hoses, I'd start by confirming the hoses and pipes are not leaking by running a clean paper towel along them. If changing the master cylinder remember to leave access to the slave cylinder for when you bleed the system at the end of the job

It really depends on which slave cylinder you have, for a concentric slave cylinder you would have to pull the gearbox out, and whilst you're at it you may as well change the clutch. If you have had a new clutch recently then I would check the receipts to see if the slave cylinder was replaced at the same time. If you have a regular slave cylinder then I would say that this is the easiest to replace. With your Reg number you should be able to check. As for the master cylinder, the price between genuine and aftermarket varies greatly. I have had to stop using the aftermarket ones as I'm sure that they are all made by the same manufacturer and generally fail after 6 months to a year. If the price quoted is for using a genuine master cylinder then its a fair price. If they are using an aftermarket part then I would say its on the pricey side. For reference I would charge about £100 in labour for changing the master cylinder. As for diagnosing it can be hard. If the problem is intermittent then most probably any leak is very small, and by topping up the reservoir will be temporarily resolved. you would really need to try and feel under the master cylinder to see if its wet. I usually use some paper towel to wipe around the master cylinder and along the pipework, starting as low as possible and work yourself up. Using this technique with paper towel will make it very obvious. It may even just be that the O-ring from the pipe to the master cylinder needs replacing. The oil underneath really would have to be cleaned and see if it returns. Too many times I have seen old oil leaks, or spillages from oil changes etc that have not been cleaned up properly, which later on down the line shows itself as a false fault. I hope this has helped you out and please feel free to reach out to me if I can be of more assistance.

@cambrianclassics9526 very thorough useful reply, thanks for your help. My reg is SY09TRX do you have a website to check what type of slave cylinder I have? Hopefully it's the easy one to access. I will try and use the paper towell method but I guess either way it still has to go to the garage to fix. Currently it's very intermittent as sometimes you can drive the car but the pedal only sticks half the time. The strange thing is when I checked the reservoir it still was full so didn't drop much but maybe as you said it's a pressure issue round the o ring. Many thanks mate

Hi, I have checked and you have the standard slave cylinder. Just remove the air box, battery and battery tray and you have good access. All these parts will need to come out to bleed the clutch regardless of whether you change the slave or master cylinder. Changing the slave cylinder can easily be done within an hour. If you are confident you can follow my video and try to replace it yourself. Or if you are located in mid-Wales you can always book it in with me. Anyhow, let me know how you get on

Thanks thats good to know. Would it be obvious if I accessed the slave if its that one that is leaky / broke? confident haha hmm ill watch again to see if I can tackle it. What was strange with mine was that when the clutch was depressed it got stuck and no pulling it would lift it! Thanks again

Is it a mq200 or 250 gearbox I have?

Essentially what's happened is you've lost all the fluid from your system again. Yes it could be the slave, it could be an issue with a hole in the piping, o'r it could be that the O-ring in the master cylinder where the pipe goes in was missing/has been incorrectly installed. I've also seen where if the cheapest master cylinder on the market is installed they may last from a few weeks to a few months, it could be that you got a really bad one that has only lasted a few hours? Really you need to try and source where the leak is coming from and take it from there. Hope this helps you out.

Depending on experience, i would say 2-3 hours including time to bleed the system. If you need minimum down time then it's probably worth ordering the slave cylinder too incase that is where your leak is from. If it leaks from the slave it will go inside the bell housing of the gearbox and won't be visible until you remove it. If you get stuck anywhere feel free to drop me a message

Depending on experience, i would say 2-3 hours including time to bleed the system. If you need minimum down time then it's probably worth ordering the slave cylinder too incase that is where your leak is from. If it leaks from the slave it will go inside the bell housing of the gearbox and won't be visible until you remove it. If you get stuck anywhere feel free to drop me a message

Thank you for the constructive criticism. This video was from a while ago. I think that even with good lighting, due to the tight space it's very difficult to actually show you things well

It's hard to say definitely, but it it's getting stuck and then popping back up then it could be an issue with your clutch release bearing sticking

Yeah it only does it on second gear when foot down and for a sec it gets stuck then pops back up by itself, u think it's expensive to fix?

And there is slightly vibration on clutch when it's stationary and clutch fully down it vibrates little bit not alot do you know why? Cheers

​@@M4n5or Most likely due to the springs in the clutch plate. I would recommend changing the clutch and bearing, you can get a decent kit for around the £200 mark. Then labour will be dependent on your mechanic

But clutch feels good if the clutch is good then there isn't the point of changing it, I'll tell mechanic to change the bearing see if it fixes with that. Cheers though for your help

No there is a clutch fork which it pushes onto

Thanks for reply...

@Martin yeah 6 speed 02Q have the slave and throw out bearing inside the bell housing at least in North America

Depends on the version, but this is the case in the 2009 MK6 GTI 210HP.

Depending on of you were going to use aftermarket parts or genuine VW. But I would charge around £200 with an aftermarket part. Off the top of my head I can't remember the cost of a genuine part but think it's +£100 more.

@@ryanpoultney839 are you loosing fluid? Does the clutch pedal get stuck down?

@@aguyandhisgaragehi, I’m not loosing fluid and yes the pedal hit the floor when pressed and doesn’t return, if I lift the pedal and get someone to press the pedal down the slave cylinder pushes out but the pedal then stay to the floor. Where the slave cylinder pushes against the clutch fork you can see that it can’t push the fork forward ?

@@ryanpoultney839 I would try and bleed the clutch first. If the fork is stuck in then the clutch must be permanently disengaged? In which case yes you will have to remove the gearbox to replace the clutch

@@aguyandhisgaragethank you for your replies doesn’t look like it’s the master cylinder then ?

@@ryanpoultney839 it could be, but if it's not loosing fluid and there has been no way of air entering the system then it's not likely.

Best way is probably to get someone to help you. One person to sit in the car and press down the clutch pedal, when its pressed down open the nipple on the slave cylinder so that air/fluid can flow out. Then close off the nipple, lift the clutch pedal and repeat. Keep an eye out on the fluid level in the master cylinder so that you don't introduce more air to the system

Could you elaborate more? How are you trying to bleed the master cylinder?

Hi Paul, If memory serves me correctly the master cylinder is quite similar, in that it needs to be removed from inside of the car with the pedal. On the other side of the bulkhead (in the engine bay) it is most likely hidden behind a aluminium foil type heat shield, but if you follow the hose down from the clutch/brake reservoir you should hopefully be able to find it pretty easily. Best regards

It's not broken. Unfortunately my hands/fingers are too big to get at it without using a screwdriver. Just had te car back in for a service and still going strong