There are a couple main differences. First, Deep Pour is for deeper pours, as the name suggests. Realistic Water can only be poured in 1/8" increments. Second, Realistic Water never dries to a 100% hard surface, while Deep Pour does. Indents will be left if something is placed on the surface of Realistic Water. Realistic Water is meant to stay flexible and pliable to discourage cracking. Third, Deep Pour Water does not shrink upon drying, but Realistic Water does shrink a bit. Truly, it all comes down to preference. Many modelers use Realistic Water because their water features are not as deep and do not have a lot of action or movement happening around them to leave impressions on the surface. Or they don't care if that is a result. You can pool denatured alcohol in the indentation and let it dry naturally. It may take a few applications for the indentation to self-level. Many modelers also use Deep Pour. Depends on your needs and wants.

Wearing a respirator mask is not required, when mixing, pouring or curing Deep Pour Water. There is a light to Deep Pour that is strongest during the curing process. Most people do not notice it. The scent is strongest if you are using the aluminum foil dome during curing, as the scent builds up under the foil. If you are sensitive to scents, we simply recommend not lifting the aluminum foil until the Deep Pour has cured (24 hours after the initial pour).

@@ModelSceneryExpert Many thanks for your answer. I really appreciate it!

You can use another acrylic paint (make sure it is a good quality 100% acrylic), but we recommend using our undercoats since this product is specifically designed to work with the Deep Pour Water. Since we do not know what material the boat trailer is made of, we cannot know whether or not it is compatible with Deep Pour Water. Test it before attempting on a permanent water feature. Do not exceed a ½” in a single pour as the temperature may rise significantly enough to distort or melt your figure. When submerging, wait 3-4 hours after the pour and gently touch a toothpick to the surface of the Deep Pour Water in an inconspicuous area and pull it away. If a string of Deep Pour Water comes off of the surface (instead of a drop), then the Deep Pour Water has reached the sticky state where you can insert the figure.

In this video, we used a strip of clear polyethylene attached with Scenic Glue. Just make sure that the Scenic Glue is completely dry before pouring your Deep Pour Water or Realistic Water.

Greetings! Use polyethylene sheet to make a temporary dam to hold the deep pour in place; the Deep Pour Water shouldn’t stick to that. It's very important to let it cure at least 24-36 hours before removing the polyethylene sheet.

Greetings! Deep Pour Water is a two-part resin. We thoroughly test our products for their intended use, but do not test products other than our own. Since we have not tested using Deep Pour Water in this manner, we cannot offer an opinion as to how it will perform.

Hi, Dave! QUESTION 1: Deep Pour Water can be poured in increments up to 1/2 inch. Pour one layer, then wait 4-6 hours before pouring another layer. It would take about 24 hours to reach 2 inches, and 48 hours to reach 4 inches. QUESTION 2A: To create a removable dam, use a smooth, firm sheet of plastic or styrene. Cut the material to fit the opening of your water feature and tack it to the water base at the top corners with Low Temp Hot Glue or double-sided sticky tape. Seal all gaps between the dam and terrain with Low Temp Hot Glue, Water Waves, Water Effects or Foam Tack Glue and let it dry completely to make sure the Deep Pour Water doesn't leak. Then apply your Deep Pour Water. Once it's cured completely, gently peel the dam from your water feature. Scrape off any remaining residue or tape with a hobby knife. QUESTION 2B: You can pour Deep Pour Water over Water Waves to create swirls. If you tinted your Deep Pour Water, recommend adding a different Water Tint to the waves to make the swirls stand out beneath the Deep Pour. You could also use White Water Highlight -- just add it to the Water Waves the same way you would add a Water Tint. I hope this helps!

The Deep Pour Water will not eat up any of the foam, but may seep through the foam. You will need to seal the foam with 100% acrylic paint or with one of our Woodland Scenics Plaster products to prevent the water from seeping into the foam.

Yes, you can use Flex Paste to seal your base and then pour Deep Pour Water™ on top. Make sure your layer of Flex Paste is not very thick, and let the Flex Paste Dry for at least 24 hours.

Woodland Scenics so I have different plaster with my lake and I want to put this on there should I

What kind of plaster are you using? Are there any holes or cracks?

Woodland Scenics I'm unsure it's just a bag of plaster and it's smooth

We thoroughly test our products for their intended use, but do not test products other than our own. Since we have not tested using Deep Pour with another plaster other than Woodland Scenics Plaster, we cannot offer an opinion as to how the Deep Pour will perform.

If you contact our Customer Service Department directly, they would be happy to help you. They'll need to ask you some additional questions before they can determine what happened and how to prevent it. You can contact them by calling 573-346-5555 or sending an e-mail via the Contact Us form on our website: woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/show/information/ContactUs

You can use both Realistic Water and Deep Pour Water in the same water feature once the first water product has cured completely.

Water Base and Activator are temperature and humidity-sensitive. Therefore, the Water Base and Activator should always be warmed prior to mixing and pouring. This helps ensure the best results.

Yes, you are correct that you should not use PVA with any of our water products. Use Scenic Glue to attach any objects to the bottom of your layout before pouring any water products. It is also important to make sure the items have been sealed with Scenic Cement before pouring your water.

​@@ModelSceneryExpert Thanks for the response. But just to be clear, are you saying that the scenic glue holds down the rocks, where as the scenic cement acts as a layer between the glue and the water to keep the two from reacting? Or is the scenic cement there to secure to the rocks so none of them float up through the water while it is drying?

Both glues are adhesives. We recommend Scenic Glue to attach the items to your base, and then spray with Scenic Cement to help secure items and seal the objects before the water product is poured.

@@ModelSceneryExpert Okay, thank you.

Yes, you can pour Deep Pour Water over the cured Realistic Water. If you want to start over, you can paint the cured Realistic Water with a Water Undercoat or an 100% acrylic paint, landscape over the painted area, then pour Deep Pour Water over top. Just make sure the paint you use and any glue has dried completely before pouring Deep Pour Water. It is hard to say if the colors you used will work with Deep Pour Murky. Deep Pour Murky is semi-transparent especially in thin pours. Deeper pours will appear more opaque. If you don’t want to completely start over (as noted above), we recommend that you make a small test board and prepare the test water feature just like you did with the original. Then, mix and pour a small amount of Deep Pour Murky on top to see how the color would appear. This would be the safest way to know how the colors would look together. You do not have to use the whole Deep Pour Murky kit, after warming the bottles you can measure what you need and reseal the bottles for future use. The amount poured and mixed together will react immediately and cannot be stored for use, so be aware of that. We include a lot of great information on how to use Deep Pour in the instructions, including detailed tips and techniques that may give you new ideas for your layout. Here is a link to a digital copy of the instructions: woodlandscenics.woodlandscenics.com/instructions/CW4511inst.pdf

@@ModelSceneryExpert Thanks so much I appreciate the advice.

Hello! Thank you for your interest in our products. To remove the dog hair, sand the Deep Pour in the area where the dog hair is located until the hair is able to be removed. Then wipe off the sanding debris using rubbing alcohol and let the water feature dry. Finally, pour a new, thin layer of Deep Pour in the area where the sanding took place. The Deep Pour will fill in and repair the sanding scratches, making the Deep Pour look proper once it has cleared.

Most likely the painters tape left a texture in the Deep Pour which is creating the foggy look. This texture can be removed by sanding the surface with 120-grit sandpaper. Clean all sanding debris from the surface using a little rubbing alcohol. Let dry. Mix a small amount of Deep Pour Water and brush a thin layer of over the sanded resin with a paintbrush ( NOTE: you may need to discard the paintbrush or try to clean it with acetone.) The newly brushed on Deep Pour will fill in the scratch marks and dry clear again. If the texture is not too deep, you may be able to use this technique minus the sanding. If you try this and it doesn’t work, you can always try sanding it and reapplying the Deep Pour again.

@@ModelSceneryExpert awesome, so the deep pour can be polished! That's great news, thank you so much for the reply! I will definitely look into trying this, staying with the sanding. I would hate to have to go through all of that and ruin my display. Thank you so much for your help!

@@ModelSceneryExpert oh, one more question, please. Could the same process be done using the realistic water, or does it have to be the 2 part water system? Thank you! 🙏

Yes Deep Pour can be layered. Each pour should be poured in 1/2 inch increments or less. Allow each pour to cure at least 4 hours before your next pour.

Your idea sounds fun! If you are a beginning modeler and have not used Deep Pour before, we recommend that you create a small test sample using the techniques we describe below. This test sample will help you familiarize yourself with Deep Pour Water and will ensure that you have great results when you apply them to your permanent project. For the canal boats: • We recommend pouring your Deep Pour Water in two layers. Pour your first layer and wait until it reaches the sticky state, approximately 4 hours after pouring. See page 7 and 8 of the instructions booklet for information on how to determine if it has reached the sticky state. • Once it has reached the sticky state, press the boats into the Deep Pour Water. This will hold the boats in place. o If you miss the sticky state, you can use a little glue and glue the boat to the first pour (allow the glue to dry completely before moving to the next step). • Once the boat is in the canal, pour a thin layer of Deep Pour into the canal. Pour it deep enough so it appears that the boat is slightly submerged and floating. For the water plants: How you install the water plants will depend on what they are made of. Are they plastic or paper? • If they are plastic, you can place them in the water cavity before pouring Deep Pour. • If they are paper, the Deep Pour Water will likely absorb into them. For this reason, we recommend placing the plants in the Deep Pour once it reaches the sticky state (see above). This will prevent the absorption and ensure the colors are not affected. NOTE: If you intend to use Surface Waters in your canal to simulate ripples or waves, the boat and the water plants must be sealed with Deep Pour Water before Surface Water is applied to them. Surface Waters are not intended for use with painted surfaces.

@@ModelSceneryExpert Your suggestions have been very helpful and I went ahead with a view to using the Murky Water kit. Unfortunately I had an issue that you may be able to suggest a solution for. I followed all the instructions in strict order and everything was going just fine. As I picked up the cup to pour the water into the canal feature, the liquid started fizzing and expanding in the plastic cup. The liquid was VERY HOT and then just went solid in the cup! Not sure what I did wrong?

When prepared and poured properly, Deep Pour Water will not fiz, expand, or harden in the cup. Can you tell us, step-by-step, how you prepared and mixed the Deep Pour Water? Did you use any products that were not ours in the process? This will help us identify what went wrong.

​@@ModelSceneryExpert Because I found the instruction booklet quite fiddly and rather wordy, I printed out more concise instructions for myself as follows:

Get a piece of card and also create a dome of aluminium foil ready to start. (1) Pour hot water into a container. (2) Put both bottles into the plastic bag, getting as much air as possible out of bag. Place bag in hot water for 10 minutes. (3) After 10 minutes take bottles out of hot water and tilt bottles back and forth for 5 seconds. DO NOT SHAKE. (4) Put 120 ml MURKY BASE into the cup. (Fill 30 ml less at first and wait for it to settle). (5) Top up with activator to 180 ml. on cup. (Fill 30 ml less and wait for it to settle). (6) Close the two bottles right away. (7) Gently stir the two liquids together for 1 minute. (8) Shake the water tint bottle and then add 30 x drops of tint to the liquid, still stirring at the same time. (9) Stir the liquids together gently for 5 minutes. Scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing cup several times. (10) After the 5 minutes stirring, cover the cup with a piece of card and let it stand for 5 minutes. (11) After 5 minutes standing, uncover and stir for another 5 minutes. (12) Pour liquid onto layout. I have not added any other materials to the process and followed the above instructions exactly. I hope this helps you decide what may have caused this issue. If you wish me to converse with you on a different email, can you provide me with details.

Hi, James! When you're warming Deep Pour Water, place the sealed bag of Water Base and Activator in a gallon jug or another suitable container and fill the container with hot tap water (approximately 120°F, or 48.8°C). Do not use scalding hot or boiling water. If it’s too hot to touch, it’s too hot to use.

Thanks!

This diorama was built for the purpose of this video. We do not have a tutorial for building that exact model.

Umm...you build it using the everything you saw. They sell all of it.

The choice is entirely up to you depending on the look you want to achieve. If you want a murky look, then Deep Pour Water Murky is the best choice. If you want your water to be blue, green, or just want to tint the water yourself, then you should use Deep Pour Water Clear.