I'm new to 3D printing, I got the Easythreed K9 several weeks ago. I got it because I didn't want to drop a lot of money at first until i saw if 3D printing was for me. Also it allowed me to get some extra supply's like filament. I think I've seen about Easythreed video, Here's some observations. Most don't mention when using CURA, You first have to install the printer profile from a file called K7.3mf, K9.3mf (Depending on which printer you have) its found on the micro SD card that comes with the printer. After that adjusting the settings based on your results will help. The magnetic print bed is good, But PLA can get stuck in the perforations. You can avoid that by using the blue painters tape on it. The tape still has good adhesion and gives a smooth bottom, if more adhesion is needed use a glue stick. Yes, using a better filament will improve the prints. The sample filament has been exposed o moisture, Putting it in a dehydrator improved its performance. (Ive been using the 250gram spools of Easythreed filament which has worked okay, they came in a vacuum sealed bag.) Tramming (leveling) the bed well makes a big difference, I started by using the paper method. But now I'm using a feeler gauge and have seen improved results. You should also check level after every couple of prints. I believe the bed could benefit from better springs. Dimensional accuracy is pretty good on the K9. I don't care for the SD card slot its hard to remove the card, I use the USB cable instead. The little spool holder only holds 250gram spools and is about useless. I don't feel bad about buying it Ive learned a lot, especially what to look for in a better printer. Note: The spool holder stl is nice ( I had a bag full of those bearings) but it is too big to print on the easythreed 100x100 area. I might be able to cut some edges off and get it on diagonally.

My first printer was a k7, i didn't know much and it was cheap, so i bought it, learned everything i know working on it, saved money and bought an ender 3, the k7 is a good printer for it's price, but you really have to tinker with it lol

I love my k7 but highly recommend hooking it up to octoprint or a beaglecam. Major quality of life upgrade.

I have one of these and have found out that it is great for small prints. It loses a lot of detail on more intricate prints but it think it is good for the money and to get some experience at 3d printing as I am also new to the hobby. If anything this printer has fired up my interest in this hobby.

For another $20 you could get an Ender 3, for that reason I think this printer is more of a novelty machine than an actual 3d printer. It would be a great gift though for someone who likes to tinker with things.

For Easythreed K7 Support Brace and Cura Profile i need a combine version like piece by piece together. I can't print large object straight because I am still using a small 3d printer too and need to revive this EasyThreed K7 Printer for children. Anyway I like your video.

Thanks for the review. My EZ3D X1 does well with TPU. And you indeed need to tweek the slicer settings and i've been able to get consistent smooth prints granted I've been using my printer for more than 3 years now unmodified well except for a filament guide i placed on top as well.

Can you make more videos on this 3D Printer? Such as how to get the most out of this machine and some tweaks as well

Thank you for this video, I recently made a 'Help Needed' video about my Christmas Present of the X2 (same machine)that I've been having problems with and someone sent me the link to this video (before KZfaq deleted the comment 🤨 why does it do that now?!) but yes this is much more helpful than many of the comments telling me to change settings and change the nozzle etc. I can't however get the profile to open in Cura though, (yet).

At the speed this printer is printing, the yellow guide mod does not have any effect since the print head only moves in Z and X direction.. Only the bed rocks back and forth in Y direction. Thomas Sanladerer did some nice mods to the printer on his channel

It is actually mainly marketed as a KIDS TOY than an actual 3D printer from what I have seen, It is just KZfaqRS that bought into it making it out to be crap as it's $80... Then you have KZfaqrs like Chuck AKA CHEP that did and actual review much like yours and he was the first to come out as a KZfaqr with an Honest review and it actually does way better with TPU than with PLA. After I saw the Review Chuck did I got one myself (Being a South African this $80 printer costed me an arm and leg as my only options are from direct from China stores as Amazon does not ship these to my home....) So with import cost delivery fees and what not this was almost as expensive as my Biqu B1 3D printer... The reason I got it was just for TPU printing and Chuck was 100% legit in his review as it prints TPU without any problems... This is now my dedicated small parts TPU printer and I do a lot of model cars and this bed is big enough for those wheels I want in TPU or anything else I want in TPU that is on smaller scale... For me it means I do not have to change a nozzle between prints and change bed leveling between prints coz TPU does not want to be squished as much to the bed as PLA does and TPU wants to be printed slow and so this printer is perfect for TPU.

heres some settings that i have and improved my quality: (on easyware) layer thickness: 0.1 shell thickness: 1.2 initial layer thickness: 0.3 print speed: 20 or 25 (20 helps a lot) travel speed:50 bottom speed: 10 infill speed: 20 top/bottom speed: 20 outher shell speed: 20 inner shell speed: 20 INFILL: top tickness: 12 bottom thickness: 12 fill desnity: 15 support type: everywhere adhesion:raft support ammount:15 for tiny easy prints and 25 for bigger harder prints support angle: 60 distance x/y; 07 distance z: 0.2 nozzle temperature: depends,but 180 is best or 190 hotbed temperature: 0 brim line ammount:20 the raft settings are the default and the retraction too

I’ve watched a few of your videos now and great stuff overall man. I myself became a dad little over 2 years ago so I have not been able to keep up with my videos. Hoping that changes soon but keep it up!

I bought an X1 which has been fine, but bought a K9 for while we're with the wife's parents, and wow: the bed has 1mm slop at the corner, like the tubes are too small for the runners, making it hard to tram in; the head has visible sag when it hits the bed during homeing; the supplied PLA won't even feed in, despite having arrived vacuum packed; the unload switch position just feeds my purchased filament further in; and the first thing i printer melted itself onto the magnetic bed. You don't make a point of showing off the bed slop, so I'm guessing you can't wiggle the corner by 1mm with a gentle finger. I'm pretty sure I would have noticed that on my X1 at home, so I'm concluding I have a bad K9 (k9f9).

I have this printer. I'm happy that you put some settings up. I'll have to try them on sl3er.

When I watched a few reviews of EasyThreed printers, almost all of them looked very unreliable mechanically. Notably X1, K7, K9 where Z-axis is on one side. So after looking at local marketplace I got K1 version, its Z-axis is placed at both sides of the bed and doesn't require additional support. And it doesn't have this terrible 3-position switch for loading/unloading filament and has proper buttons instead. Although after visiting EasyThreed subreddit, it was mildly amusing to see how people extend working area of X1/K7 by adding bigger rods and belts and then changing firmware. A structure downside turned into upside.

Super interesting thanks

Just found where its print speed is 10 - 40 mm/s most budget printers are around 250 mm/s, where a decent printer is 500 -700 mm/s

uno: hay que añadir un ventilador más grande de frente al estrusor por el lado del filamento para que siempre lo mantenga firme sino se ablanda y ya no lo puede jalar, dos: hay que añadir una pequeña extensión con refrigeración y ventilador incluido, entre la salida del estrusor y la boquilla esto para evitar que se caliente hacia arriba y ablande el filamento de entrada, tres: sino se utiliza cama caliente imprimir las primeras capas a poca velocidad y poca altura o arrimar un poco más la cama a la boquilla para que se adhiera más el material, cuatro: no utilizar temperaturas tan altas ya que como va lento se ablanda mucho el material depositado y se vuelve chicloso, para esto ir probando desde 180 hasta 200, yo lo dejo entre 180 y 195 y funciona, cinco: añadir soportes pero separarlos un poco más de la figura sino es más difícil quitarlo, cinco: en la x9 añadirle bujes de latón en las guías de los ejes para darle más firmeza ya que vienen de platico y se aflojan rápido por el desgaste...suerte con eso y buen video...

excellent video. I began with it and as you said it was a horrible experience. 2 times out of 3 would stop in the middle of a print. after a lot of tries I discovred I had to disable the fan for it to work. After this I had to change the Z motor. now The printer prints too high (20 mm calibration cube comes out with a height of 40) and I can't find any info on how to calibrate the Z axis. Piece of garbage, I regret not buying a 200$ one

Would using a glue stick to make the bed more adhesive work?

I got a weedo one for 60 bucks and it performs way better. For 80 it's insane how bad this is.

I got a K7 for my son, but he seems to have got the extrusion nozzle completely clogged up 😢 Any good ideas on how to ungum it ? I got the filament out, but I can't get new filament to feed in.

Is Benchy another word for widget? Thx

Can you print PET from plastic water bottles

How can i find the details whats the name of the details

nice your video... but the nozzle includes 0.4 or 0.2mm diameter??

6:58 Where can I find the Cura settings changes you mentioned in the video? Thanks. I have this 3d printer...

The printer really isn't worth it considering the price of the kp3s.

bro didnt even level it then complained about build quality and adhesion 😢