That's acceptable in my opinion. Hope battery level tracking is better then in tado. I've discovered one bug with it but unfortunately, they didn't react on it. Even made a video on it (valve can get stuck in call to heat state forcing boiler to run 24/7). Thank for the correction :D so it's something like 0% closed. Makes sense.

The percentage is how much the valve is open, not closed. 0% = closed

Didn't you experience problems with the time? It goes really fast off... Scheduled heating profile doesn't work properly because of that.

Dont know... what can i do wrong than?! Cause in my way the batteries are in "low" mode in one weeks without use!!! What could be the trouble? You have also not problems since u wrote in the last one year?

What's about the accurency of the TRVs? I also read, that they do not often check for new updates e.G. the automation to reduce temperature will be transmitted hours after automation was run. I am planning to control 20 TRVs of this kind, so it should be an invest which is working... And batteries just last about 2-3 months? Thats really poor isn't it?

Thank you very much!!! Glad it was helpful!

Glad I could help!

Thank you David!! 😊

From previous comment on the video, it looks like it is working great with ZHA too, so you should be fine with it. Zigbee2MQTT has also gone a long way with own GUI, OTA of firmware etc - and Frenck is now also making contributions to the code to make it work even better to HA - so both should be ok. And thank you Adi for the comment and of course for watching the video!!!

@@BeardedTinker Thanks for the videos and for the hard work in making them. I learned quite a bit about integration and new devices. Thanks again.

Thanks so much for the info! Out of 3 setups with Zigbee support I don't have a single to test ZHA :) Maybe it's time for another setup. And how are you happy with them? Any issues?

Glad it helped! 😉

Yes, hold for a long time home, scroll to WiFi icon, press home, hold home :) It's hidden really, but when you do it dozen times you know it even in your sleep. I currently have 3 similar valves that I'm testing - it's nightmare as each one has different pairing process. Glad you found that part!

No idea TBH - I see that it has Child lock exposed and state - manual/auto lock. But no idea what it is.

I'll keep looking, doesn't seem to be any info online regarding this... @@BeardedTinker

Can't be 100% sure, but if you use Tuya app, and both are visible in Tuya app, I think they should communicate between eachother. But it all depends on the way you want to set it up.

Not sure really - not using SmartLife with those valves. I have them connected via Zigbee2mqtt.

Sorry didn't understand. Is the temperature in Home Assistant that is reported different than in Tulsa App?

@@BeardedTinker Yes is the different temp . for example, the temp in HA is 25 C and the tuya app 5 c

20oC difference? What value are you using in HA to pull temperature? Climate or something else. www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_thermostat.html You could use calibration setting to calibrate data, but still since there is such a big difference I think you may be pulling wrong value.

Through HA or Tuya app? In both cases, answer should be yes. I've given this valve away, so can't test it, but it should be possible.

There was not that much of a sound form it.

With Zigbee2MQTT, it should be possible. I'll test it over the weekend as currently it's paired to ZHA network.

@@BeardedTinker Thanks very much!

Valve reports battery low status, so I would think it does. For Home Assistant you need to create automation to get notified for battery_low state. In 2021.11 version, it should be boolean state.

@@BeardedTinker I think you are talking about a windows app on PC, right? I only have smart life installed on my phone because it's easier to operate everything from phone for me.

Yes, or better to say Linux, but same - not using Smart Life myself for any device, as I try to stay with local control of devices (in case Internet goes down, to still be able to control it).

Not sure if this helps - there is reset option in the manual here: drive.google.com/file/d/116rj8RwvsLJHDkL9Y6XwAXmZ3JiX6Pnb/view Check last item on how to try and reset it. Try also 123456 as default password.

thank you very much!!! the thermostat wants a password and I do not know which!? I do not understand how to reset it. Display 88 ....!?!?!? can you tell me how? Thanks in advance!

Check my previous post here - I've written you default password and sent you link to manual on how to reset it

@@BeardedTinker thanks a Lot IT works with 123456....thanks so much!!!

Most mains powered Zigbee devices (such as light bulbs or power outlets) are also routers on Zigbee network and as such they extend coverage of the network. IKEA also has (or had, haven't looked lately) range extenders for Zigbee network. Also, some devices can be flashed with router firmware and act as Zigbee network extenders (such as Sonoff USB 3.0 Zigbee dongle). It's hard to say if any of such devices will be needed or how many are needed to cover such space as it also depends on type of material used for walls, floors etc.

Yes, of you program schedule, it's saved locally on device. Even if connection is lost it should keep it.

If you want to avoid ZigBee/zWave - look at Shelly TRV. That's WiFi device, works well, no need for any hub or similar. And can be used via web interface of device or via Shelly app. All others require some kind of gateway (proprietary if you use their app or and ZigBee if combined with Home Assistant).

Both links are in video description - Banggoog and Aliexpress ;)

There should be some kind of Zigbee Hub - stick, network or any that is supported in HA.

Can't tell you, sorry. I've given my valve away at giveaway so don't have it anymore. But as this is end device in ZigBee network, it can take some time for update to be received as it goes in sleep to prevent battery drain. Not sure how often does it have to connect.

@@BeardedTinker Ok, it seems like if I leave it alone and don't touch it works (still testing). The point here is that I have a quite big room of roughly 65 sqrm with 7 radiators. The radiator valves are connected to radiator and the radiator are place under windows. i really don't care about the temp there. I care about the temp some 1,5 meter up from the floor somewhere central in the room.I basically wants the valves to play in sync. What I done is an automation that trigger at a time interval and compare the room temperature the " local temp" and correct it. I need to try out the time interval, at the moment I'm trying 20 minutes. This is the action part of my automation. service: number.set_value target: entity_id: number.tobesrum_local_temperature_calibration data: value: >- {{states('sensor.mellan_temperature') | float |round(1, "half", default) - (state_attr('climate.tobesrum','local_temperature')| float |round(1, "half", default) - states('number.tobesrum_local_temperature_calibration') | float)|round(1, "half", default) }} That is adjustment=roomtemp-(radiotortemp-adjustment)

There are few ways. Some vendors in custom apps support using external temperature sensors instead of interna TRV sensors to control on/off state. Also, Home Assistant has in HACS custom component called Better Thermostat - it has internal support for same case.

@@BeardedTinker and what about this valves that you're using. is it possible to pair it with external thermostat?

This is ZigBee device, so it need coordinator. It can be one used with Home Assistant, such as Conbee or CC2652RB usb sticks or one made by same manufacturer. But it needs something to move data from ZigBee network to WiFi/Ethernet.

I use tado - have Smart Thermostat that is hooked to boiler and tado Smart Valves. I hope to get my hands on Moes Smart Thermostat that is equivalent to one from tado (but much cheaper and also working on Zigbee network). When I get it I'll cover that part. With Smart Valves, unless you have some relay controlling boiler, you can only close valves when temperature is reached. But yes, you miss call-to-heat functionality with only valves.

Hi Hans and thanks for the comment! I've never seen/heard of such an issue? I presume that you tried to reset the device and re-pair it? I've seen this, but again, it's to try and pair/unpair device until it get recognised... Strange. github.com/Koenkk/zigbee2mqtt/issues/9144

@@BeardedTinker thanks again, I reset the device and re-paired it about 40 times!, I then completely removed it from Zigbee2MQTT and then cleared it from the blocklist. I then re-paired it and it worked!! - thanks again 😎

Glad you got it working at the end. No idea why it would get identified as some other device.

@@BeardedTinker Yes, really strange, but working fine now - thanks to you 👍😎

Check HACS component Better Thermostat - I also made video on it. This should be easiest to do it.

Thanks for the comment! And really nice head scratching you got here... I know that there was a way to reverse it, but can't remember what it was. The only (bad) idea that pops in the mind is to create separate sensor that reverse value of the first sensor. But that is bad way to do it in long run.

That's not easy answer - if you have Home Assistant as smart home software, you need some kind of Zigbee hub to connect device to smart system to control the valve OR to override Thermostat, if it is smart thermostat. I use tado thermostat and I can leave it on auto, or use Home Assistant to override values I get from it. If you go with Sonoff Zigbee HUB, then you should be able to just use app for Sonoff to control the valve, but you would still have problem with thermostat. Very hard to answer as there are multiple solutions on how you can do this.

Hi, I wonder if you know how to automate the operation of the valve using the external temperature sensor in HA

@@nugzarmaisuradze6722 Yes, I did that using my NodeRed. In short: I set up the program to comfort, and I simulate different temperature (by calculating it) as a target temperature. I ignore the inbuilt sensor from the thermostat and I use my sensors. Example: built in sensor shows 20C. My sensor shows 18C. I want to have 19C. Without my sensor, the thermostat would stop heating (current is 20, target is 19C). So what I do is calculate: target (19) minus current from my sensor (18) and I set the new target to be 21C - this way thermostat works the way I want. That is simplification - in Node Red it is a bit more complicated - if you wish to know more let me know. on top of that: when thermostat turns on, it will very fast make the built in sensor go even up to 8C above the real temperature - it is normal because this sensor is 5cm from the radiator ;-)

All such things are done on Home Assistant side. One is to create automation that would trigger the relay to initiate heat. Second one is to create template thermostat and use relay as switch and valve as temperature source. I don't know if it's possible to use external source for these, never tried and don't have it anymore as I've given it away on giveaway few months ago.

One of them is this one - www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/BHT-002-GCLZB.html this is Zigbee version. I have on my desk for test BHT-3000 - but by mistake, Wanted Zigbee, got WiFi. This should also work, but second mistake, it's for underfloor heating... :) On Zigbee2MQTT link there is very good search engine and device list - try looking for thermostat - there are few of them there and all work with Zigbee. Just when you look at specs, check that they fit your boiler (and not like me order floor heating version).

I've given my away and new one still hasn't arrive. But I think you can rotate 90o only, not 180. Check documentation here: drive.google.com/file/d/116rj8RwvsLJHDkL9Y6XwAXmZ3JiX6Pnb/view?pli=1

@@BeardedTinker thank you

Thank you Lennart! The only way to combine them is if using system like Home Assistant to do so. Unfortunately due to them being different manufacturer and with tado using proprietary protocol for communication, you need middleman. But if you have Home Assistant, and you have both tado thermostat and Moes (or similar) valves - yu can use state of tado thermostat as trigger for automation to turn valve on/off. And vice versa, use valve call to heat to trigger manual heating. You do need to put fail-safe in automation to for example stop heating if call to heat was longer then 60 minutes.

Check manual here: drive.google.com/file/d/116rj8RwvsLJHDkL9Y6XwAXmZ3JiX6Pnb/view To unlock, long pressing - key should lock/unlock it. I've given my away to a friend some time ago, so for the button inside, no idea really. Was it sensor to see if cover is open or not - can't remember.

@@BeardedTinker yeah... Thanks. Long press doesn't work, though. Hence the question.

@@benjaminremy4970 You can always try MQTT command: www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_thermostat.html#lock If you have it hookedup via Zigbee2MQTT, you can use it to send lock/unlock command.

Hi Ernst and sorry for late replay... It is possible. Not as easy as with app, with, still you can do it via MQTT. Please check here: www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_thermostat.html#controlling-device-specific-features There is section for creating schedule.

I'm really not sure. I think that it does auto-calibrate when you first install it. (or I may have mixed them with others). Don't have one I had as I've given it away, so can't test.

Check manual on this page - on the bottom of it is manual. And last item on last page of manual is how to reset device: www.moeshouse.com/collections/trv-radiator-valve/products/tuya-zigbee3-0-new-mini-wifi-radiator-actuator-smart-programmable-thermostat-temperature-trv-controller Display 88, using + or - to hange to 00, press MENU to reset, all of the icons appear means reset successfully (this is copy paste)

Hi @aidanbree. I've just bought 3 of these (other white label version) from Amazon in the US. I am completely unable to pair them, following the instructions from this video. I've tried both a Conbee II and separately a Tubes (using Zigbee2MQTT). All my other devices are Zwave, so I can't test it separately. I've even tried moving the Rpi 10 feet from my router and behind a closed door to try to reduce interference. Would you mind sharing your hardware and the Zigbee2MQTT Configuration? Thanks!

@@ha_tinkerer1191 try this www.zigbee2mqtt.io/advanced/support-new-devices/01_support_new_devices.html#instructions to pull out exact device name (not address). There are devices that look similar but are in a fact different. It may be that those are not natively supported. If name of the device is not in the list, you can request that device support be added in Zigbee2MQTT. It's really not hard to pull necessary info, and others can help you.

@@BeardedTinker Thanks - I missed that part. I gave it a go - several goes and it looks like it resets OK but bizarrely the main menu only goes up to 4....Its really strange. Every other device works OK!

@@ha_tinkerer1191 Make sure you are running a recent version of Z2MQTT. I found that they'd changed repo some time ago and mine was stuck on an old release. When I sorted that out, everything worked fine. I use a Zigazigah stick

Can't help you with that answer. I've given my away - but here is my experience with other manufacturer. They need to be replaced once at heating season, but if device get's more opens/closes you may need 2 replacement. So it all at the end depends on your setup, location in apartment, how it keeps or loses temperature etc. Out of 3 I have, one in living room lasts longest. In room where I have issues with thermal insulation, I may need to replace more frequently.

@@BeardedTinker thanks for the reply. Can I ask what models you are using now?

I've been using Tado Smart thermostat for about 7 years now, even before I started with Home Assistant and Tado Smart Valves for about 3-4 years. In 2-3 weeks there will be video on that.

This is the UI card called Simple Thermostat - not physical thermostat...

Thanks for the comment! 1) those are predefined temperatures that you can setp - for exampe Holliday is set to 7oC to prevent frost, ECO, few degrees below your standard temperature for times you are near your home, but not at home, etc. 2) not sure on that one - I've given my away and can't test it. Valve has 3 states - closed - fully closed, open, fully open, and normal - I think normal should be used for standard operation. Position values can only be read I think, and not set. Check here: www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_thermostat.html

This is HACS card - Simple Thermostat. It has Auto functionality for automatic day/night setting, but that's based on device it controls and you can't create schedule there. My schedule is on tado app and devices use that. Moes smart valve also supports schedule, and you can create it via MQTT.

@@BeardedTinker as usual, a clear and useful video. I´m using other type of thermostat for electric floor heating considering now HA fixed the tuya integration in the last release. I was looking for the Simple Thermostat in HACS but didn't find it. May be they changed the name...Can you please share the repository link. Thanks

What heating system do you have? And what hub/installation type are you using - Moes hub, home assistant or something else. On 3 similar valves from Moes, I've never seen that they shoot so much over the set temperature.

@@BeardedTinker i am using Home Assistant.

What Gateway do you use. Did you try Better Thermostat HACS integration?

I'm using tado, but that's legacy/closed system. Something lime this one will work great www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/BHT-002-GCLZB.html I unfortunately wanted to test this one but got WiFi version by mistake. But yes, WiFi version will also work. When you look at devices for heat initiation, be careful as most of them have 3 options - gas, electric and underfloor heating.

@@BeardedTinker so this is technically possible to use valves in addition to a thermostat in an indipendent home with a tuya ecosystem right? Because the more i look on the internet the more i see people using either only the thermostat (independent home) or only the valves (apartments). Instead i see systems like tado or netatmo being widely adopted for this particular situation, and it is making me think that this feature is not available in tuya. PS. Thanks for the quick response!

@@filippoaisa2982 Yes, you can mix - but only if you have some other system that combines both of them - for Example - Home Assistant can talk both to Tuya devices and tado/Netatmo. Call to heat is done to wards and smart thermostat (like one I sent you link or any other Zigbee/Wifi one). I have full tado system - both thermostat and also valves from them.

Not really sure on this one. Although I think there is also a newer version of same valve (hw changed but model is still the same), I think it's because of integration itself...

The Conbee2 integration is simply less powerful than Z2M, the same is true for ZHA. Non-Z2M solutions are great, but if you want to control less-standard devices to their full extent, Zigbee2MQTT is the way to go.

While I had it (it was given away) I didn't have those problems. What is LQI (Link quality)? One thing you may try is to replace batteries just ot be on the safe side and that's the only thing that pops on my mind.

I dont' have documentation anymore. But I know Moes has it available online. There is procedure to do factory reset in it.

Check in manual: drive.google.com/file/d/116rj8RwvsLJHDkL9Y6XwAXmZ3JiX6Pnb/view In table you have Reset option - last one.

Hi, I just wanted to ask whether you have the same problem. You probably use valves without their own programs. Could you please test them? To upload program in mode 5+2 for W and H and then check the status, it should have been written to valve... thank you. I just wanted figure out if I have something bad in setup.

Sure, but I would then use generic thermostat card for that. You can use whatever temperature sensor in your automation to trigger the valve by hand/automation. But also, don't worry on the sensor being close. I have similar ones for 5 years and never seen too high reading because it was close to radiator.

@@BeardedTinker thank you!

IF you control everything from HA - yes, you set valve to manual and then based on temperature from sensor, create automation to close or open the valve. If value is at or above desired temp, close it - if under, open valve.

Just to add Nikos, not sure if you deleted second post or if it was KZfaq issue with missing comments - I see that you've posted something but getting error when I try to open it.

@@BeardedTinker That's strange. I did write something but don't know what happened with it. I was just saying that in that case we could even use the generic thermostat climate platform to do this controls! 🙂

@@nickagiann KZfaq comments are disappearing for last few months. Yes, it can be used with generic thermostat :) Simple and easy solution.

Thank you for the comment Lucky! This is excellent question. I still have to find good solution to this and this is why I haven't recorded that video yet. One of the devices I have been looking at is this one - www.banggood.com/MoesHouse-WiFi-Smart-LCD-5A-Wall-Hung-Gas-Boiler-Water-Electric-Underfloor-Heating-Temperature-Controller-Digital-Weekly-Programmable-Thermostat-Wall-Mounted-Work-with-Alexa-Google-Home-p-1688563.html?rmmds=detail-left-hotproducts&cur_warehouse=CZ&ID=6290077 But please check if it is suitable for your system. It has two parts - one is receiver that is hookedup to your boiler, and other one is thermostat. There should be others like that. Other options I've been looking are hardwired (thermostats) but if you need mobility, one I posted above should match that. And by the looks of it - it also has set temp and current temp. So, you can try and narrow your search to devices like this. BUT - it's not Zigbee. And I don't think there will be a Zigbee device because it still would need additional connection with controller on boiler.

@@BeardedTinker Yes, back when I owned a house I had a Honeywell wall thermostat with a remote control unit that worked the same way. Honeywell has been making those for 30+ years. Now that I live in an apartment, I don't get to control the boiler, only the valves. Let me simplify the question somewhat: what do you recommend for small, battery powered, thermostat I saw another video where the host had some small Zigbee Xiaomi thermostats scattered all over his place. But I couldn't make out more information and there was no URL for the thermostats in the show notes. A first approach could be to put a thermostat and a separate up/down button, which must exist, on my couch table and perhaps make each button push 0.5C higher or lower. (I am an old computer nerd that it totally new to Home Assistant, but I would be surprised if that weren't possible). Oh, and I also bought the Zigbee USB stick you recommended. I would have much preferred a PoE-powered Zigbee adapter, because my Proxmox server that HA will run on is totally in the wrong location, for good RF reception, but the few PoE Zigbee adapters that I found online are all out of stock. Any and all pointers are much appreciated!

Sorry for a late replay. Hmm, that's easy but also hard to answer. I would recommend using just smart thermometers, not thermostats. If valves are connected to Home Assistant and you can get temperature in HA too, there is no need to have thermostats around. Xiaomi has simple ones - from Aqara temp and humidity sensor (it's called like that) to the ones with screen, Mijia - but they are Bluetooth version, so you need additional gateway for that. Moeshouse has smart ZigBee/WiFi Tuya compatible thermometers with Lux. I know that I probably didn't go much 😂

Just checked deConz list of supported devices and I can't find it there. github.com/dresden-elektronik/deconz-rest-plugin/wiki/Supported-Devices#other-supported-devices As I don't have Conbee stick I also never used deConz. Not sure what is procedure for adding support to new devices. In Zigbee2MQTT that part is much easier. for ZHA a bit more complex, but it's also duable.

@@BeardedTinker Ah! That's interesting. I now see that there are two Zigbee methods. Thanks for letting me know, B.T. I've learned something and can take it from here.

Thanks for the post Victor. Not sure I can help since the one I got has been given away. But you are right on one thing - speed of the valve is here much slower them tado. But on the other hand, tado valve was louder then this one from Moes. I missed to test control of the valve open/close state in %, but there is topic in MQTT states of the valve for it. Check here under Position www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_thermostat.html

I agree on this. It seems it only really has two states, open or closed.

Maybe you accidently set the „Control type of valve” from “PID” to “On/OFF”? (Advanced options page “AA” should be 0)

This valve supports varying positions, and as one of the few even reports it via Zigbee (visible as Position: 0% at 8:04). It has some shortcomings though - first, it doesn't have any encoder/hall sensor or anything reporting back engine revolutions, so reported position is based on timing (and maybe tracking power draw), anyway it has tendency to deviate into being fully open whole time despite reporting for example only 10% openess state sometime just after couple of days and couple dozens of automatic readjustments (fortunately switching it off recalibrates it, so I have automation doing so every other day). Position is read only, so there's no easy way to control it with external algorithm (it's possible by some tricks though, as there's at least feedback loop). It' doesn't track radiator temperature (no idea if any other does so), only ambient one - so in a rooms with two or more radiators sometimes happens „a little dance” where both are chasing each other readjusting way over range every couple of minutes. It doesn't measure working real range of pushed pin of mechanical valve used, so reported 100% openess has nothing to do with real one (of course 0% is valid). Also because of this if power source doesn't provide constant water temperature it may happen that it will noticeably overheat a room by slowly going from 100% openess to let's say 20% by an hour or two before valve really gets closed. And finally - quality is quite problematic. I have 16 of them for little over a year now, three went to a basement (where they are needed anyway) as their gears got really loud just after one or two weeks of use. Fortunately no other got so loud, but I'm under impression that all of them got somewhat louder now than a year ago anyway. Two other have frequent problems with batteries shortly loosing contact even after slightest touch. Also their adjustment algorithm sometimes behaves really erratic, like for example yesterday it kept valve at the same position for a couple of hours, despite room temperature falling slowly from 1,5°C to 2°C below a target. For comparison I also have five years old Danfoss Z-Wave based ones - they are much more quiet, their adjustments are much quicker and during calibration they measure effective working range of a pin of mechanical valve they connect to so they were always working within it. Unfortunately they are installed in a flat where to this day I haven't found time to deploy Home Assistant and test what they report and how they work with automations. And with only three of them, as they are no longer produced, for a new home I needed some other solution…

It's a valve. It needs external heater.

Thank you Dariusz!!

Yes, but keep in mind that you maybe need a Zigbee hub(or USB dongle) in order to link it to your Home Assistent system.

As Steven said, it should work - and hub should not be an issue if you already have Moes sensors in HA. I would create generic thermostat that would use sensor data for temperature but use climate to control device.

@@BeardedTinker the hub is not an issue, I already have many zigbee devices through a USB dongle. Can you control the valve directly, bypassing the internal temp readout? essentially using just the "valve" portion of the TRV? i.e. is this component exposed to HASS?

​ @Vojtech Tambor Yes - that position % (0-100) is full closed to fully open. Check this here for more info: www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_thermostat.html

@@BeardedTinker looks like you cant use the valve position % - "Position. Value can be found in the published state on the position property. It's not possible to read (/get) or write (/set) this value. The unit of this value is %."

Next week I'll be releasing video on heating for HA where I'll cover that too.

@@BeardedTinker Oh nice! I bought the same but mine driving me crazy. They always heat way to much... looking forword to the video and hope you have any tipps.

Hi! I would suggest for start that you limit your HA log to only log warn or warning levels. This should be sufficient to prevent log to grow. www.home-assistant.io/integrations/logger/#log-levels You can add to configuration.yaml file: logger: default: warn I haven't seen log or database to grow that much just because of one device. Next please check this here on how to purge your database of the old data: community.home-assistant.io/t/how-to-keep-your-recorder-database-size-under-control/295795 Also check here for recorder commands to set purge days. I keep 7 days of data in database and I think that this is default. www.home-assistant.io/integrations/recorder/#configuration-variables

@@BeardedTinker Thank you for the prompt reply. Maybe I miss explained things. My database is mariadb, I had the purge set to 8 days, but I took it down to two because of the valves. When I do a query in the database I see around 180000 rows for the trv status. It perhaps reports too frequently to homeassistant. I dont have problems with the log, I miss explained that part. I posted in your discord, perhaps we can chat about it there. Thanks again.

Oh, OK. Then I would suggest that you use Exclude option in recorder to skip saving unnecessary data. I haven't seen a way to reduce polling interval. There was once a long time ago issue opened on Zigbee2mqtt to reduce data flow of you use enable reporting in configuration. But that was long time ago. Is it all same sensor and same entity and entity type? www.home-assistant.io/integrations/recorder/#exclude

Out of 3 different Zigbee valves I have on testing right now, none support just that. They can be forced open/close or auto. I'm currently testing few of them for a bit longer review, differences etc, but it will take some time to get that video out.

@@BeardedTinker Thanks for your time.

This would be great. For example, temp is over 15 degrees, then close valve. Lower than 15 degrees, then heat with 30% open. Lower than 13, then 80% etc. I would imagine that would save a lot of battery as well if this adjustment would run an hourly check, and normally would not change.

Yeah, would be great. Not sure why this is not exposed for control.

What app asks you for password?

I've given my away but new one will be here in a week as I really miss it for testing.

To add on this, this is available already, but it's still been worked on.

In the advanced options you set a measuring temperature correction from -9 to +9 degrees. (see the manual)

Yes, that is correct. However, you are confusing something. You mean that in the advanced settings can set the actual temperature with the displayed. What I mean is that the unit overheats by default 2-3 degrees. Support has confirmed this to me as well. Practical example: You want 20 degrees? Then you should set 18. Because with the 2 degrees that the device overheats, you reach your 20-21 degrees. This is the dumbest unit I've ever had. And they refuse to take it back. I didn't read this nonsense in the product description. Because then I would not have bought it

Nobody is forcing your arm. You can use ZHA if it supports it. If not, you can also create custom converter and make it compatible. I use Zigbee2mqtt as it has more features and supports much more ZigBee devices.

This device is independent of the boiler. It doesn't create call to heat. There are compatible thermostats from same (or similar manufacturers) that hook-up to boiler. I hoped to record video on that but by mistake got WiFi version.

I don't use eWeLink app. I presume it can be used with Tuya app SmartLife - but also haven't tested it.

Yes you can! This model is supported. Zigbe2mqtt has more features available, but ZHA also works with it.

@@BeardedTinker Thanks. I'm triying to integrate a similar TRV (brand "Sandy Beach" whose model is also TS0601) via ZHA and Sonoff Dongle. Pairing is correct, but it doesnt show any thermostat entity, just LQI and RSSI sensors. Have you try to integrate Moes yours via ZHA? Thanks again!

There are tons of different valves with TS0601 part number. All 3 I have (moes) can be paired and are exposed as thermostats to ZHA. But just as side note - even this one has two different hardware + firmware combos and is still in same box and branded as identical device while actually it's not. Models I know that work with ZHA are: _TZE200_b6wax7g0, _TZE200_cpmgn2cf (this one rom video) and _TZE200_ckud7u2l

@@BeardedTinker Tons of thanks for this info! 🙂 I'll try yours ones

​@@BeardedTinker I just recive this smart valve. No problems to pair via ZHA. It just show 3 entities: thermostat (with 6 presets), battery level and switch (this I dont know what for is), but it's enought for me! Hvala !

Auto is intended when you have application, set default values (for ex day/night temperatures + away) and leave everything just run. Heat is call to heat - and can be used to override auto if needed. Od tado (that I use), I have everything on auto, and use Home Assistant just to show current temperature values.

​@@BeardedTinker If I wish to use thermostat as manual device (just set temp which I want) which mode is correct?

I used Home Assistant home automation software for this video - if that was the answer what you were looking for.

Valve position depends on types of the valve. Some can open only in 25% increments, others 10%, and one I've tested can make steps 1% at the time. Most of them don't allow you to control the %, as they do it them self. Check Better Thermostat HACS integration on what and how it can be customized and best suited for your installation.

Can't help with that myself. Don't have ConBee II stick to test it.

@@BeardedTinker Hulk is saaad :( right now it does not look like working unfortunately, device does not appear in Deconz UI after pairing (however I do see it as ZigBee device)

You can add it by going into pairing mode and then you will see it in deconz as a unknown device / node. Editing the basic infos and setting the device to Gold will result in it being displayed in the deconz integration. The question is now how to edit the infos so that it results in a useable device. Could not manage to do that yet.

Natively as far as I know, no. They stated some time ago that HomeKit support will be added, but from what I've seen this TRV is not supported. There are some workarounds but haven't tried any.

There was really nothing more to it then fixing it to the radiator with screw. I didn't even have to use any of the supplied converters.

It should work with Sonoff Zigbee stick. I tested it with it.

@@BeardedTinker How To set the week Programm in Home Assistenten?

@@Peterzuffall1981 you can set schedule via MQTT commands - www.zigbee2mqtt.io/devices/TS0601_thermostat.html#controlling-device-specific-features Of course if using Zigbee2MQTT. On the above links you have examples of commands and payloads you need to send for specific task.

@@BeardedTinkeri have zig2mqtt , but how can i Senf Mqtt Commands sry i am nee…

@@BeardedTinker in home assistant it shows up... but not in mqtty topic zig2mqtt

There should be also without it (if you already have one). I haven't tested one, but that's generic WiFi to ZigBee Tuya gateway and I know some who are using it (with ZHA). Not sure if it has to be flashed or if it works with HA out of box.

To add on this. This gateway if you go with it will need some hacking to get it working with Home Assistant. It can be done, but not out of box. But again, this is from other people doing it - I haven't tried.

@@BeardedTinker I asked because I'm looking for a gateway that is on my LAN and not on the USB port

@@sekt1953 not sure if this is the same model, but I think it's very similar. github.com/banksy-git/lidl-gateway-freedom That one is probably what you're looking for. paulbanks.org/projects/lidl-zigbee/

@@BeardedTinker If you ever come across a Zigbee gateway that connects via Ethernet that works out-of-the-box with Home Assistant without flashing and is not out of stock, please do let the world (and me) know. I've been able to find 3-4 models, but they are all out of stock. PoE-powered a big plus.

I use besides built in Thermostat card, also HACS card called mini climate card. Not sure if you were thinking on that one?

I prefer ZB2MQTT over ZHA due to more devices being supported. But most of the functionality should be available via ZHA too.

@@BeardedTinker after poking around apparently the ZHA quirk for the valves hasn’t opened the same amount of attributes as the MQTT implementation! I have to wait patiently for someone to make a quirk update! Bit more of a hassle setting up zigbee2MQTT but it would save hassle in the long run!

Talked yesterday with HA devs (we have regular monthly calls which are awesome). They'll tray to look at this as they want to expand this part of HA - to enable more and better energy saving control. So keeping fingers crossed.

@@BeardedTinker wow! Talk about speaking to the right people! I will keep an eye out. 🙏

I've given mine so can't test it. Are you trying to set valve temperature reading to 17 from HA? What state are you reading - 0% or 100% (or somehing between that). I've made mistake in video - 0% is fully closed.

@@BeardedTinker I've t ested it again and it seems that increasing my set temperature from 16 to 17 (where the valve still reads 21 room temperature) the valve is opened a little bit. Increasin the set further to 18 opens the valve even more. But that doesn't make sense to me. The room is already 4 degree to hot, why would the valve wants to open the valve? I'm trying to set the temperature through HA, yes. valve closed is also 0% on my valve.