I have a lot of equipment at home in a 16M x 8M shed. There is no way I will ever post a video online of my work as the number of people telling Keith how he should done the job is astounding. I have nowhere the experience Keith has so I would cop even more corrective advice. Hats off to Keith for continuing his projects in the face of all the "expert" comments.

Hi Keith. After an extended holiday, I'm catching up on my youtube playlist(s). My first observation is you appear to have lost weight; a lot of weight. You are looking good mate. I myself went from 100Kg (~220lb) to 80Kg (~176lb) in about 6 months, on advice from my orthopaedic surgeon; I had to get weight off my knees. Losing the weight has certainly made a big difference to my mobility, although I have had to buy new clothes!! Hope your experience has been as positive as mine. Like I said previously, you are looking really, really good. Well done buddy. Best wishes. Harry

Keith, 2 points : 1 - Let's say that you used .030" Turcite. This will raise the flat side of the tailstock .030" ( ignoring the epoxy for now ), and raise the angled ( V groove side ) up .0424". 2 - Don't you need to drill some oil passage holes through the Turcite ? Thanks, I enjoy your work, Al

Keith, I'm a loyal viewer. I had a enough of a fright when you crossed the lids with the bases of the expoxy that I thought I would support viewer best practices with a comment. Accidently swaping the lids would cause both cans to set up while you store them. So I have a STRONG habit of making sure the lids and the cans are well associated on the bench. I might put a big red dot on the harderner lid and certainly keep them on the outside of their respective cans. Of course I was relieved that you un crossed the lids right back on to the right cans! 20 years of speacity adhesive and composite material work speaking here. Love your channel.

Keith, a fast and easy way we used to check/adjust tailstock was with mag base indicator mounted on headstock (or chuck) with indicator sweeping the tailstock spindle. Make sure clamp is tight as it changes measurment. Also turcite bad choice for clamping surface; better to shim between castings. Best regards in the new year!

I adjusted mine by adding a shim between the top and bottom base castings. That gave me another problem, I couldn't adjust out a taper I was cutting. I later discovered that my quill would lift as much as 0.008 (about the amount I'd added with the shim) when the lock was engaged. It turned out that wear on the quill was allowing it to 'droop,' but it would return to original height when you engaged the quill lock (which is of a different design than the one on this Monarch). For others that may start checking for misalignment (vertically), I suggest that you do so with the tailstock clamped to the bed, quill extended to where you have it for turning between centers, and the quill lock engaged ... basically having everything as they would be while turning a long part.

I agree with the others who would put steel shims between the cricket and the tailstock instead of the Turcite under the cricket. An advantage to doing this is the shim packing can be set so the quill can be made parallel to the bed. If you want to keep from pulling your hair out it is important that the tailstock quill is parallel to the lathe bed and the headstock spindle center line. This fault is noticeable when you are trying to cut several bearing surfaces on a shaft. You end up with a mysterious taper that even if you can get rid of it adjusting the tailstock side to side reappears when the tailstock is moved on the bed. Before doing any of this, get a ground test bar for you lathe spindle. Up through a 4 Morse taper they aren't very expensive (for the ones made in India). If the head stock spindle center line is not parallel to the lathe bed horizontally and vertically you are urinating into the wind trying to do any further fine adjustments to the lathe.

As others noted, wouldn't it be easier to shim the upper and lower halves for height. Scrap the way interface for oil retention; no need to plug your oil holes with epoxy and Turcite.

Hi Keith I know this is probably going to sound stupid but why wouldn't you raise it up by adding the strip between the two halves of the tailstock .

I gotta say it, that is a beast of a head stock. And the tail stock aint tiny either.

Great video, I was a laborer at Cincinnati Gilbert, here in Cincinnati. I watched some of the men use tercite on different parts, It was cool how they would do it all by hand in 1977-1979 when I was there up to the strike.

Should have taken the unit apart and cleaned the surfaces before the measurement, then put a collet in your head stock holding a piece of round bar. blue the end of the round bar and bring your tailstock center up against it. Turn the head stock and it will inscribe a circle on the end of the round bar- your height difference is half the diameter of the circle.

Hey Keith. I've been watching your videos for a long time. Curious why you didn't shim the tailstock casting instead? That's what I did on my mori seiki when I rebuilt it.

Martel stock on my 612 has a oil reservoir that feeds down to a hole into those grooves. It looked like yours had the hole also. There is a hole down low that you fill the oil in to the little cup reservoir inside

Hi Keith. Nice clean editing on this one, very well done :) Happy holidays.

I put metal shims between the top and bottom of the tailstock on my 9" model A Hercus lathe (Southbend 9" clone). Works fine now.

Always a pleasure to see another of your videos.. Thanks

Always something fascinating to read in the comments on stuff like this- I'm looking forward to the next video to see how this thing mates up!

I was looking forward to this episode as I was wondering how I would have approached the issue were I making the same modification. First off I would not have used the center method to establish the height difference between the HS and the TS. I would have turned a very accurate test bar in another lathe, one or two feet long, then mounted it between centers in this machine. Using a dial indicator or a height gauge on the top of the test bar I could very accurately establish the height offset. And if I were using a dial indicator I could also correct the side to side offset. But you said up front that this was a preliminary measurement, and for that what you did was fine. The big problem came in when you applied the mystery material to the V ways. If you apply some .030" material to the flat way you will achieve a rise of .030". But applying it to the V way will give you something in the range of an .040" rise. This may or may not work for you. It was me, I would have taken an entirely different approach. First thing, it is my belief that these tailstocks are individually fitted to each machine at the factory. I would have taken all the tailstock halves to the surface plate and I would have established if swapping halves might or might not result in the height you need. Unlikely but little extra work. If, as is likely, shimming is needed, I would have added the appropriate thickness of feeler gauge stock between the two halves, Yes that offset would also affect the adjusting mechanism but it is my guess that offset would get lost in the general low tolerance requirement of that relationship. Now if the height difference were much more, obviously this method would not work.

Well done as usual

Some cheap paper plates and bowls from the picnic section of the grocery store for mixing epoxy and other chemicals will be the best 5 bucks you ever spent. I buy old silverware such as butter knives from the local thrift store for about 10 cents each and they make incredibly good mixing spatulas--clean with a wire wheel after or just toss em.

Thanks for sharing.

Thanks for the Christmas Card. Loving the progress on this lathe, although also excited to see the 10EE

I wish you and your family a Happy New Year.

Great vid as always but would not making a spacer to fit between top and bottom halves have the same effect without the wear issue

Thanks for sharing Keith

Awesome belt btw!

Awesome project :)

I use a certified test bar and DTI to align tailstock centers, as I often move the tailstock alignment when machining long tapers. Obviously the relative heights would not normally change but simply measuring vertically would achieve perfect alignment on the vertical axis.

Great job buddy thanks for sharing

Interesting project...thanks for sharing!

Good job

Awesome as Always... Cant wait to see the Chips fly on this..

Thanks Keith.

Thank you, Keith

Impressive as always,great video.very nice job.👍👍👍😎😎😎

Why not simply put a .030 shim stock between the two tail stock pieces?

Thank you and Happy holidays Kieth!

Nice simple way to take up the wear happy Xmas to Keith and family

I've used several lathes over the years that were out like the one you have. We almost never turned parts between centers. At that time I didn't know about trucite.

This machine is going to be great !

Good morning Keith. Have a great weekend!

Happy New Year Keith. Hope you and your family have a Blessed New Year!

Lean and mean machine shop instructor. Looking Great Keith!

I have heard that using Turcite on a tailstock offers clamping issues. I will be most interested if this is the case once you complete the job and try some high strength applications like drilling large holes etc. You are looking good. happy new year

Happy New Year

When you mix two components epoxy... Don't use the same stick for the hardener that you used for the resin. The hardener will be contaminated.

I have no doubts about Keith making this adaptation work just fine.

Use an indicator on the spindle to determine the exact value.Use a flat shim between the two parts of the tailstock. Peel apart shim stock is available at Mcmaster with .001 peel offs.

Good

Nice work Keith. I have heard of Tucite the use and application. Never seen it installed. You make the process look easy. Not saying it is. I can see you certainly have experience with it. Alot of the things you do Keith, you can't see being done anywhere else. I think the tail stock is going to be very nice.👍👍 Thanks for sharing the process. Have a great day. Happy New Year.

Keith, you have done an amazing job of restoration on this machine. It looks like new except for one thing... There are two small tubes, likely for oiling, that look like worms. Please, straighten them out. They have been beaten up it would seem. Such a perfect job everywhere else and then.... those tubes. Nice job in the turkite. Have a healthy, peaceful and prosperous New Year.

So what's important, for matching tailstock to center of lathe chuck? Thanks Keith for getting that understanding started

Morning Keith, great video, the turcite should get you back track for the elevation of the tailstock. You probably have already a small oil groove leg on the flat side that when you finished up had not been put in yet. Wanted to be sure you had all of them prior to assembly. 🙂 Thanks for sharing.

Hey Keith, I just remembered a high school printing project requiring carving linolieum with a tool which got used to print an image. Well, some the carving is done with a V - shaped tool which I think would make very nice grooves in Turcite! Progress!

Hey Keith. Hope Christmas went well for you and yours. In the last video when you said that the centers of the spindle and tailstock looked to be out of alignment by about half an inch and you were talking about using Turcite to shim up the base, I started to think you'd slipped a gear somewhere. After watching this video I realized that the half inch was either misspoken or you were taking into account the lateral mismatch as well. Either way, what we saw here was WAY closer than that. Some have mentioned using precision setup bars to align the two, but you've done enough lathe setups on this channel that I wasn't worried about you coming up with a good, usable, acceptable means of alignment. I know that using the calipers to measure offset was just a WAG to get close. Glad to see the 612 getting some love. Happy New Year and looking forward to what you bring us in 2024.

Interesting

Philmont belt... Classic BSA experience!

This was very interesting. I knew on an academic level how this was done, but the specifics of how thin the turcite was, how well it would stick to the surface, how you would handle V ways, and the actual practical application have been a little bit of a mystery to me. I have experience here in our shop using Moglice wayliner, but that is a liquid that is poured in place. We've probably used 20 or 30 gallons of it over the last 25 years which is a pretty big number when our application only uses a 250 gram kit at a time. I can see the advantages of both methods.

The chisel/cutters made for linoleum block printing would be perfect for cutting those oil grooves. Available at any arts and craft store.

just wondering why the spacer adjustment was not made between the top and bottom half. that would have left the way contact as is,,,

If it was my lathe, I would have added the turcite to the separation line between the base and the upper. As long as the keyway was still engaged this could have been a steel .030" shim.

Curious as to why you did not put the turcite between the top and bottom halves, leaving the ways alone.

I saw the dent in your left hand ring fingernail….must have been some serious cussin there! Great video Mr Rucker!

Why can’t brass shims be installed between halves of tail stock ? Love watching your channel

Thanks for sharing and Happy New Year to you and your family 😅

You are experienced, so will have factored into your scraping plans that using the same 30 thou. turcite on the v-way as on the flat-way has rotated the tailstock base. FYI for others : because the turcite strips applied to the 2 v-way surfaces are at an angle to the horizontal (45° assuming a 90° v-way) they have a greater vertical depth - the side with the v-way has gone up by 1.4 times the 30 thou. added (sqrt(2) is approx. 1.4) which will introduce edge-only contact areas along the 3 way surfaces. This will be partly disguised by the epoxy along those edges having been squeezed away by the rotated weight of the tailstock base. About 10 thou. would need to be scraped from the entire surface of both v-way turcite strips to remove the rotation that has been introduced. Alternatively, the edges of all 3 turcite strips where excessive contact has been introduced will need more scraped off to widen the turcite contact areas with the metal way surfaces.

Tailstock alignment tool. Ground bar that will fit all the way thru the spindle hole. Make sure its straight. Drill the end to center on the tailstock. Then cut off that section making in about an inch. Face off both cut faces. Now you can chuck the long bar up and indicate it in. Hold the one inch piece and bring the tail stock forward . Now you can see which way the tail stock is misaligned in seconds. Allowing you to easily use shim stock for different lenght jobs in minutes. Heck you should be able to not only measure but feel and see the difference.

Thank you for sharing.👍

My question is why don't you put the shins on the top half of it that doesn't slide???

I wish you and your family a Happy New Year. Greetings from Germany.

This works but why not make the height adjustable with super fine set screws between the halves just like lateral adjustment? Or just shim the upper to lower halves?

For vertical lift, why not just shim between the 2 piece's of the tail stock?

How important is it to open up the oiling holes in the casting and allow oil down into the oil grooves you cut?

why not add a shim between the to half on the tail stock?

Noticed your philmont belt , i made three treks.

Why would you not put the Turkite between the top and bottom pieces instead of on the bottom of the bottom piece?

I thought that the standard for tailstock alignment used one or more test bars between centers. This allows you to indicate both lateral and vertical deviation between the headstock and the tailstock. A short test bar gets you close then a long test bar tests alignment when the tail stock is farther away from the headstock. It also allows you to determine the thickness of the Tercite shim. If I'm not mistaken Tercite can be scraped in.

Only way to accurately measure is an alignment rod with accurate ground centers. I have kept my ways well lubed since I got my lathe new in 1996 & it hasn't dropped at all. I re-level it every 6 months with my Fell, keep shop @ 69*F year round, & conditioned air. No rust; no wear; no movement. Close isn't enough in precision work.

Beautiful job looks nice good job looking good lost some weight keep up the nice work

silly question but why not add the appropriate spacing between the upper and lower halfs of the tailstock where you could just machine it out of a piece of steel?

Why not shim between the 2 parts of the tailstock?

I might be wrong but couldn't you shim the tailstock up at the join between the top and bottom so the turcite doesn't wear on the ways.

Keith, it looked like the oil feed hole on the flat side of the way was in a spot that's going to hang off the bed way. How are you going to get oil in your narrowed pattern? Or should I just wait for the next video?

The epoxy looks like JB Weld to me.

Why not just shim between the top and bottom section?

Keith, you have a Philmont belt on. Have you been there in conjunction with Scouting? It’s a fabulous ranch!

Keith, you're looking very well. The weight loss makes you look younger. Enjoyed the video. Happy New Year. 🎉

Hey Keith, love the channel. I may be jumping the gun here but I’ll ask anyway. The bottom section of the tail stock. Were those oil lube holes in the base that got covered up?

Why not shim between the 2 halfs?

Won't the epoxy affect the thickness of the turcite

I have a question, instead of putting your turn its on the ways, why not put it between the 2 halves? Or even, putting a 0.030 shim between the halves? In no way is this a critique just a question thanks 73 dan

Not one of the maybe 20 manual lathes I've been around had the livecenter point close to the center of the spindle.

Keith - what is the boss in the lower casting? Front LH corner. Round boss.

cool dose scrapping work the same way on that material?

Hi Keith. Tell me if I'm thinking correctly here. Looking at the wear on the end of that tail stock traverse gear it looks as if it never engaged the lead screw horizontally when new. You might not need to space it out from the tail stock but just mill a flat to mount the apparatus. As far as those worrying about Turcite durability, they must have missed that it's used on new machines quite frequently now. Also, lookin' good there, El Flaco!

recommend cut corrugated cardboard mixing palette, popsicle sticks, and a rubber spatula stolen from the wife's kitchen.

How about using a dial indicator.

Adding an even layer on the flat slide and the V slide yields a tilt and lack of contact between the bed and the tailstock. I wonder why not shimming between the 2 parts, not on the slide surfaces. It'll restore the parallel contact of the ways.

Need to check the exactly weight of the 2 parts of turcite glue.but all cant understand that