Hope you feel better soon, Tom. It shows your generosity that you gave us some meatloaf when you didn’t feel good.

Really like that Randy Richard "Bopper" tool ! Handy !

Enjoyed Tom! Moving the bolt holes off center toward the tensile mounting edge will decrease the bolt tensile force generated. See you Sunday. ATB, Robin

Tom, make a bracket that wraps around the yoke, incorporating both levers and you will be able to get 6 fasteners. 2 on each side of the yoke

Thanks to you, I'm starting to actually look forward to Mondays!!! Thanks for another great one, Tom. I'm really enjoying all of this.

Love the Danny Carey reference!

The TOOL reference was funny, I have heard it in the background on a Abomb79 video before. For me ,there is nothing more fun than a good project and TOOL blasting the shop.

Great Video! Surprised to hear you say Danny Carey, would never have guessed you listen to Tool!

Hi Tom. Thanks for sharing this episode. Regarding the pins for the insulation above 8' : the stem of the pin is a tiny cold bridge to the outside temperature so the tip of the pin is always going to be slightly colder than the surrounding insulation. Any moisture in the shop air will condense on the pin tips and you could get rows of drips coming down. I had this from the roof of my old garage until I covered the exposed protruding nail ends with more insulation. Just cut small squares of your foam and glue them over the pin ends and washers. Cheers Toby

oh yeah, so happy you are back. thanks for the lessons.

I don't know... I don't trust those insulation pins until we get them hooked to the load cell and they see some testing. :) Thanks for the meatloaf.

Hi Tom.. two things.. 1) thank you for telling us about Gary a few years back.. I think he is just a pleasure. One of the best treats you guys share is how you think around problems and challenges, outloud, so some of get to learn.. and 2) a sort of welcome back: I have really missed your content the last few years. Somewhere in the first part of your load test I felt like you were having the kind of fun with your project that seems to have been missing since the “egress”. Thank you for sharing your world with us.

I've been using those chain hoists in my job forever... I do all kinds of stuff with them. Pull and bend, lift and twist.. mostly pipes. If I need a to get a pipe or something similar really close to something .. i mean closer than the length of the hoist itself... Then I just make a loop around the two things (pipe and quite often another pipe).

I can wholeheartedly endorse the Randy Richard's carbide scribe. Outstanding quality tool. I treasure mine.

I machine a tool for a customer who has a patent, been dealing with materials and tensile strengths, one thing I think greatly effects the tensile strengths is when force is applied with an impact action introduced!

Enjoying having you back. So here's my $0.02 worth on your come-along repair. Mill off the busted socket. Fabricate a steel yoke to wrap around the aluminum yoke. Suggest about 3/16" for the legs and 3/8" for the cross piece. Weld your handle sockets/stubs to the new yoke. Use the socket screws to fasten the steel yoke to the aluminum sides and through-bolt the top (if space permits). The socket screws shearing is not a bad thing - they are the weak link protecting the rest of the assembly. Coincidentally, yesterday I was putting some pretty good gronk on a couple of come-alongs with the intent of bringing down a tree that was hung up on its neighbor.

Tom, one thing I learned about fasteners is that you utilize the strength of the fastener in steel if the engaged depth is a minimum of the outer diameter of the thread. In non-ferrous the rule of thumb is twice the O.D. as a minimal engagement. I'm metric so for a M10 thread in aluminium you should have 20 mm of engaged thread. So if you know your material thickness you divide it in two and that's the maximum thread from a thread point of view. I used it for +25 years now and it never let me down. Maybe a practical tip. Thank you! Best, Job

Never would have guessed that Mr. Bozo was a Tool fan. Love the videos, I have learned so much from you.

Congratulations! You've created a giant version of the bolt cutters you see on crimp tools. You could probably shear off the screw without any help from the socket. Assuming that flange on the post version is 1" wide, you've got a 66:1 mechanical advantage, or 16,500 lbs of tension on those flange screws. If those are 5/16” screws with ½" of thread engagement, that's about 0.5 sq in, or 33,000 psi, and a quick Google search turns up 30,000 psi as the shear strength for 6061.

great video, tom - thank you!

It's 10:30am EST so meatloaf for breakfast is fine for us oxen.

Get well soon mate, Great video, Cheers Mikd

I like to use a form tap in aluminum when durability is required.

You stay positive and stay safe my Internet friend please look after yourself; fletch from the UK

Thanks for the video

Another upload! Excellent! Interesting testing on the handles. Could you share with us why grade 5 bolts and nuts don't go together and what would be the right way to go? Grade 5 bolt with grade 8 nut or the other way around? Greetings from the Netherlands, Mark

Great demo. Do me a favor, please ... Secure the tensioned object with a buckstrap of sorts to prevent stubbing your thumb when the test fails with rapid accelerations.

Enjoyed Tom, I sure like that little hoist! Nice seeing everyone at the M & G.. Hope you feel better soon, It's been a brutal C&F season. Enjoyed the testing and interesting results...See you next Monday ATB...

FYI. That’s a power lineman’s “hot hoist” or “strap jack”. Someone to the strap off and put a cable on. It usually has a fiberglass handle with it. I believe double up its good for 1 tun.

Happy that I get meatloaf on Mondays again :) Thanks Tom!

Life is returning to normal with a meatloaf every Monday. The hoist "T" handle should use bolts with nuts on the back side. Thanks for the video keep on keeping on.

Hey Tom! Thanks for another meatloaf. I'm very glad to see all the updates. Definitely looking forward to more videos.

That countersink being so deep is what we refer to as a knife edge condition in the aerospace structures world. To be avoided at all costs. Rule of thumb is only go about 70-80% of the material thickness in depth for the countersink. Granted that's also considering you have many, many fasteners in a row to take up the shear.

The next question on the come-along handle is where do you want your fuse. Repairing a sheared off screw or a ripped out thread is no fun whereas putting bigger fasteners on that first design means you replace a simple piece of square tubing if you over-gronk it.

Pray you feel better Tom. Thanks for the great content.

This was a fun episode for sure, imo. I very much enjoy seeing and understanding testing to failure, and why.

From one Tool fan to another, thanks for the video. When I saw you testing the first mount, I was thinking you were loading a tension mount in shear. Someone once told me single shear was really a tension application. But I thought hmm I wonder what would happen if you had it bolted in shear, then tested it.

Danny Carey reference noted....

I watch all of Gary’s videos and they are pretty interesting. Much different than anyone else’s. He gets into stuff I never knew existed. I second the recommendation. And, halfway through the strength tests I thought why not add both handle options? What’s to loose? Looks like nots and bolts are the way to go, though. Stay dry while Gene Krupa practices on your roof.

hope you're feeling better Tom!

Those little hoists,come alongs are great..I use I bit larger ones at work when I need to pull steel around during fabrication of escavating attachments..but that small one is handy as a pocket in a t shirt..

Wow, there are a lot of engineers out there. Thank you Tom, no suggestions from me!

Great job on the video and fun testing. Yes I do enjoy Old Iron Machine works videos. Especially when he is moving big equipment in his sandals. Because we all know PPE is a last resort, so heads up and don't have a reason to test the PPE. I have been known to do quite a bit in my sandals as well. Keep the faith Scott

IMO, the most appealing option would have to be the side handle, now that i've seen the results. I was in the other camp the other time on account of not sideloading the tool, but... the potential to engineer a fault in the very holder rather than breaking handles is far better. Having a weaker bolt in the front and letting it shear if you exceed X is the best solution.

I agree that those little chain come-alongs seem to all be made in the same factory. I have a norhern tool, a harbour freight, and a couple other pricier labels, fit and finish the same, styling details the same, and even the part breakdown diagrams seem to be the same. Not look the same, but the same art. all bought at different times over the last ten or fifteen years, but, from the outside, the same. Very handy to have, though. Each of the heavy hoists-one tone, two ton, five ton- has one of these tag-lined to it, both for setting them up- five tom falls are not easy to handle on a 20ft ladder- and for offsetting and tugging loads when lifting.

I love testing and evaluation stuff. I work nights at a firearm manufacturer running a swiss lathe. I'm right next to the R&D section so I like to go over there at night to see what they're working on. They always come up with innovative techniques for stressing and testing parts and products.

Thanks Tom.

Interesting the stress testing using the dyno gauge, never seen one before. I'd say the thin countersunk plate acted like a sheer cutting blade under the screw head. I'd be a bit weary of drilling and fixing across the narrow alloy bridging section and applying force to it. You could make the new mounts to fit on one L shape back which fits the L contour of your pull along. So you have the side fixing strength aiding the centre pull with it only being a narrow mount. If you know what I mean Tom. Enjoyed the video and the technical info. Tony

That's pretty interesting, the fastener testing. I look forward to the final come-along design. I going to look into the small chain hoist. I think I could use one. The meatloaf keeps on getting better. KOKO!

Great idea on the insulation

Right On Tom! 🙌 Great show! Cool to see you got one of Randy’s knockers! Also cool to see those insulation pins. I’m going to use those for some rock wool insulation at my shop. Thanks! 🙌🙌

Feel better soon I hope, great video despite the fighting the lurgey. The last couple of videos have made me realize that my life can be improved by knocking up my own “handle to everything”.

Always like your little quotations at the end.... another good meatloaf. Russ

Paint or cover spray foam if you go that way for insulation. The sunlight will break it down overtime.

The rule of thumb for the maximum depth of a countersink is 2/3 the material thickness. Could consider using Keenserts in the aluminum.

7:33 pm. When you get another storm it would be interesting to check the decibel numbers in your shop. Great videos Tom. Thanks

Tom, great engineering exploration video. Was real exciting to watch with earpods in, haha. Get well soon, buddy.

You could make countersink even deeper, and do matching countersink into the yoke, similar to how aircraft 100 deegree screws are installed. Then bigger diameter of the taper is what is load bearing.

Tom, thank you for all the kind words. That meant so much to me! I checked my email and messages and a ton of people mentioned I was in the new meatloaf! Ha! You analyzed the hammer perfectly. One gate, Two ejector pins- one on the bottom, one on the brass. Thanks again my friend!

Nice Meatloaf Testing. Nice seeing you at the M & G. Enjoy the "Knocker" be sure to check out the engraving. Good insulation method.

Always like having some meatloaf. Thanks for the videos

Randy is awesome.. I really love his scribes.. If I wasn't so broke I would definitely buy a set, lol

With the percentage of Machinists that are probably on the Spectrum, I think it's funny Randy would ask "why do people always unscrew that?". * IT'S A FIDGET TOY! *

Great testing on the handle attachment designs. On the sound stage I used to work at, we used those insulation anchors to hold the sound proofing on the concrete block walls. If you do have places that are not covered but you want to not get snagged on the nail tip, they make a cap that can go on them. Unfortunately, I have no idea what they are call or were to get them.

Use both and you have the best of both worlds!

I think with the first test the baseplate was acting as a guilatin on the small bolt, especially being countersunk. The second option, probably my choice seamed ok. Strangely enough the thin nylon strap held better than both 😆

That was a nice meal. Have you ever thought about wrapping it with bacon

I think that's how they did the space shuttle tiles.

Now we need the test done with helicoils to see how much extra the steel thread inserts add to the strength!

Tom, me as well as almost everyone I know have had an upper respiratory “thing”. I hope you feel perfect again soon.

Well now. I have to comment twice. I have a number of years experience with sheet metal and HVAC work. That stuff for hanging insulation will never come off. It's tough. Also, there is no need to clean the metal, it will hold. Most duct work or sheet metal in general is treated with really light applications of linseed oil or something similar to prevent rust in storage and you can hang it right up in any orientation and that glue will stick forever. Also, if you do insulate ceilings, they make a tool, basically a broomstick with a ring magnet on the end that you can set the nails into after you goop them and stick em overhead then when you come back whenever the stuff dries the same tool will hold the fasteners and you can poke them right onto the pins while remaining firmly grounded.

The clips for the insulation are also available with a plastic plate on it, which will cover the protruding nail. No injuries then. Used often in shipbuilding.

Wow I’m surprised you know Danny Carrey I thought you’d be more of a Buddy Rich guy

Lots of curious stuff this episode.

Put them both on , and you have the best of both worlds

Good to know you’re a TOOL fan Tom!!

Danny Carey 🤘🏻

those 500 pound come alongs are a back saver

For the the side mount receiver option, I would add two small roll/spring pins down through the outside end of the tabs to help reduce the shear movement. For the end mount option (both actually) I always prefer thread forming over thread cutting in aluminum for the strongest threads.

That's interesting: So the angle for those tapered machine screws, typically turn it into a cutting blade. I think you would be better off just using regular bolts, but grind down the heat fairly thin, so you can still insert the handle (of course)-- but then you get the full shear of a larger bolt, and the thickness of you drilled hole can keep the entire sidewall, rather than the taper.

That insulation should help quiet down the rain on the roof as well as help you keep a little warmer. I noticed I could see your breath in the video.😊

Generally, flat head screws are used where the metal under the head is the thickness of the head. Pretty much what you had. Then the question is whether the size screw was correct. Moving up one size would give sufficient strength for your needs. But then the head would be slightly deeper necessitating some countersinking in the aluminum. Or, screws with shortened heads could be used, if the size is available. Gary is great. He seems to be able to do everything, and seems to know everything.

Spray foam expensive….yes… being in the business years ago I can’t stress enough on how amazing spray foam is for R-value and sound…… think of that dunken donuts cup and the 3mm of foam between your hand and 180 degrees, it’s warm……… now scale that up to the multiple inches of foam on a wall, an attic will go from 130 degrees to 80! In summer time… it is worth every penny I tell everyone if you can afford it just do it you’ll be so happy you did!!!

I gotta know what that is with the square thread! Thanks for sharing Tom👍

I would look at taking advantage of what's left of the cracked part. If you were to cut it in half lengthwise, you'd have half of it still welded to the yoke. You could machine a steel part to fit that radius and length which you could mount a new handle mount to, then use multiple screws (3-4 per side) through the aluminum into the steel part, which would give you a much stronger base for your handle mount. This would be so much easier to draw, but I don't know how to get the napkin to you.

Tom I enjoy your videos and I hope to see more of them. As a UA rigging instructor I can only assume that the handle housing was broken because the original handle was replaced. The safety device on a wire lever hoist is the handle, it bends to ensure that the hoist is not overloaded.

Thanks

Sweet!

Once you do the main layer of foam insulation do another layer glued to it and offset the seams. Tape the seams in the first layer as well. Otherwise moisture and air will find the cold tin and cause issues and heat loss.

May I recommend checking out the Kito LX lever hoist, the 250kg has a minimum headroom of only 205mm, they are probably really expensive if bought locally, but ordering them straight from Japan, they cost about half, at least in Europe. I got my 0.5t from a Japanese eBay seller.

Tom can you go into the Grade 8 bolt with Grade 8 nut vs Grade 5 nut a little more. Do you want the yield on the nut for a particular reason?

Hey Tom, glad you're having fun, it's awesome, and I am happy to report that i am having fun again too! I also commiserate with you on the sheet metal drumming because I live in a 40ft can on the Big Island now. After Dad passed i moved home. I'm hoping to put out an update video soon, but editing has been a hurdle. One quick question, if I may...am I crazy for thinking I want to weld my sheet-metal roofing to the trusses? I've become proficient with my flux-core galvanized welding, but am unsure if fasteners are a more robust connection? The base material is 1 7/8" sch.40 pipe with 24guage sheet Mahalo for any guidance you can lend.

Hey Tom , how about going with type 1 but putting one on both sides then you can operate it from either side and when you need to put a bit more gronk on it you could use a fork handle which engages both sides with a handle over the centre line

Either way you were pushing upwards of about 900 ft lbs of torque The fact that the bolt sheared off at THAT much torque is rather impressive

the craigslist find looks like it could be a punch tool or a plug maker. like the freeze plugs on a car. being as hand powered it would only be thin material and as a closed throat i think freeze plug style caps

Why not install flat head screw from the inside of the lever hoist arm, thru the bracket and use nuts and washers on the outside of the bracket? You could tap into the "post" part of the bracket to get a third screw.

Tool!

41:56 That’s a lathe chuck picker-upper if I’ve ever seen one!

Thanks for this and all your other great content! Is that a kukri on the bench?

Food for thought 🤔... Cut bottom plate off your square ⬛ replace with? 3/8 or 1/2 inch. Go to your Machinery Hand Book 📖 look up counter sink Fasteners and pick out what will work for say for 3/8" plate the 📖 book will have all your dimensions and strength. If you have room I would back nut it with a washer head lock nut. PS your strength is at the root diameter not the OD as you stated. PS when done it will be over kill but that's fine. Your other design will work fine also.