Thank you for your kind comments. I try to make the tutorial videos informative and have been pretty successful at doing so. Some things I have included, like clicks and too much mouse attention I have stopped using because they were distracting rather than helpful. Thank you for viewing. I'll try to continue making useful videos as time permits. I probably take 2-3 days of work per minute of finished video. Lots of script changes and additional shooting of video and stills to make sure concepts are as clear as I can make them.

Thank you for your comments and thank you for subscribing.

While the HDR results won't be as good as some software, the camera does a pretty good job with the Auto HDR setting. Thanks for comments and thank you for viewing.

No, you don't need to shoot in JPEG-only when bracketing. Only DRO Auto HDR requires JPEG-only. I didn't switch back to RAW+JPEG in the video after shooting the Auto HDR sequence. I probably created the confusion, since I normally use RAW+JPEG. Sorry. Thanks for questions and comments and thank you for viewing.

The RX10iv is a very versatile camera. I do use it for video as well as stills. My recent post of a short video of a humming bird, shot at 480 fps, gives some idea of its versatility (studio.kzfaq.info7MLCoMZVAk0/edit?o=U). Thank you for comments and thank you for viewing.

I hope my video didn't cause confusion. The RX10iv does provide in-camera auto HDR. Setting DRO/Auto HDR to Auto HDR creates an HDR image and a normally exposed image in the camera. With this setting, you have a range of EV values that provide 3 images under or over exposed by the value chosen. Three images are shot rapidly and the normally exposed image and HDR image combined from the three images are saved. I just wanted to cover all HDR tools the camera provides and may have distracted from the Auto HDR feature. Thank you for comments and questions and thank you for viewing.

My fault. Thanks. I now understand that. And after testing it seems to me your maual HDR productions are worth the time, the auto HDR inside the camera does a slightly weak job when I compare the two products (HDR version and normal JPG). But your wonderful video gives me all at hand to study, learn and improve. So thanks again, you helped me and for sure many others a lot.

While there is no HDR for video shooting, some combination of settings using Picture Effect, Creative Style and Picture Profile should provide the kind of video you're looking for. You can customize several Picture Profiles with settings for Black Level, Gamma, Black Gamma, Knee, Color Mode, Saturation, Color Phase, Color Depth and Detail. While the SLog settings in a Picture Profile might provide better dynamic range for those who want to do more post-processing, there is enough flexibility so you can find settings that will make great video without post. I was looking at the a6500 and the RX10iii when I bought the RX10iv. The RX10iii didn't have the fast focusing of the RX10iv and when I selected the lenses I would need for the a6500 to approach the capability of the RX10iv, the package got too heavy and too expensive. I would make the same choice today. I probably should make a video showing variations in settings for video in various light conditions. Thank you for questions and comments and thank you for viewing.

Hey thanks for such a quick response. I get and agree what you are saying: overall RX10 iv is better package but its only because of zoom range. I would like to ensure that it can get better dynamic range than most of review or test videos I have seen so far. They all look pale though sharp. In fact videos shot with samsung s9 or iphone x with 1/2.3 sensor look much more dynamic and colourful at everyday shooting scenario than rx10iv/iii. If I may ask. Or do you think the otherwise? I am asking more. Can you tell me any setting that will give video quality like that of iphone x or pixel 2 atleast at wide end that will be great. ofcourse in camera setting without any post processing same as a smartphone gives us directly. A video on this in your time will be amazing. As I am desperately trying to convince myself with cost of camera for quality n not zoom n hfr kind of features :). Thanks again.

It is difficult to make comparisons with the specialty cameras like the iPhone X. There is considerable processing that takes place in the device, like increased saturation and sharpening because that is what most people want. I will be out shooting today for a photo club meeting and will try to get some video samples. I'll try various settings to see how close I can come to what you want. I should be able to post by tomorrow.

hmm got it. Yeah if you can try some variations that will be great help. But no hurry though :) again thanks for response.

I did a quick video using the various Creative Styles. I didn't do any settings changes within the styles, but I will soon. You can see the unlisted video at: kzfaq.info/get/bejne/l9WGe9uC0LLccWg.html

I'll see if I can work something up for you. I know the menus can be intimidating but maybe I can make something simple that you can setup and save to memory or card for easy recall. Thank you for questions and comments and thank you for viewing.

@@MontanaMonk Thank you my friend that would be very good of you.

@@stephentopp1512 Here is an outline that you can use to set for the kinds of shot I did in the video. If you have more questions, feel free to add more comments. Setting DRO (D-Range Optimization) D-Range optimization Levels (DRO) 1. Press Menu and select shooting menu 1 page 10/14 (page numbers to right of menu title) 2. Scroll down to DRO/AutoHDR and press Center Button to get DRO/Auto HDR sub menu. 3. Scroll down to DRO Auto. This setting will let the camera make adjustments. 4. If you want to make setting manually, press Left or Right side of Control Wheel to set the level you want. Level 1 is weakest level 5 is strongest. A DRO shot will produce one optimized image. 5. If you want to use HDR, Scroll down to HDR. You can set to Auto or up to six levels of Exposure Value (EV) changes. An HDR shot will produce two images, one normally exposed and one optimized, all done in the camera. Setting Exposure Bracketing 1. For Exposure Bracketing, press Menu and select shooting menu 1 page 3/14. 2. Scroll down to Drive Mode and press the Center button to get to the Drive Mode sub menu. 3. Scroll down to BRK C and press the Left or Right side of Control Wheel to select the combination of EV level change for each image and the number of images to be shot. 4. When you press the Shutter button, the camera will take the number of shots you have set, changing the exposure by the amount set. Remember, you must use an editor to combine the images into a single HDR image; however, when doing the editing, you don't have to use all images to make your final image. Just use the number you want to produce a good result. For HDR and Exposure Bracketing, it is best if you have the camera on a tripod, especially if you have low light conditionss. It may take the camera some time to shoot the set of images. If the camera is moved during the shooting time, the images will not align properly for combining them. Most software that creates HDR images from a set of bracketed exposures has an alignment algorithm, but they are not perfect, so a stable camera will help produce a better final product.

@@MontanaMonk Thanks for taking the time to help an aging Yorkshire man. You sir are a gentleman

I use ACDSee Photo Studio to show the comparison images. I used it to display the four images while recording the screen. The screen, mouse movements and clicks are recorded using liteCam HD. I do the narration separately and dub it into the video during editing. Re-recording or editing my narration mistakes is much easier when I'm not recording video at the same time. I do use easyHDR 3. It has been a very useful editor. However, I recently upgraded my ACDSee Photo Studio to the 2020 version. It is a great image editor and I can produce excellent results with it, some, similar to what I had been using easyHDR 3 to produce. Recently, I have been using easyHDR 3 to edit 360° spherical images, since it has a 360 mode and will not cause blending problems at the sides of the image. Thank you for questions and comments and thank you for viewing.

@@MontanaMonk Thank you MontanaMonk for the quick answer. I'll try the ACDSee Photo Studio a.s.a.p ... Until now i use Photomatix Pro from HDRSoft for my bracketing images with good results. But inside the app i found no way to show the under/over exposure indication as you have shown it in the Video. Thanks again for your quick help

Your question is not as easy to answer as you might expect. I usually shoot RAW or RAW + JPEG, so only DRO is available with those settings. If shooting only JPEG, I would prefer HDR 6, since it seems to provide a better range. However, if I'm using a tripod or can brace the camera solidly and there is minimal movement in the scene, I prefer bracketing with 1EV5 or 1EV9 and then combine with HDR editing software. I have found that often, when using RAW with bracketing, I can find one exposure of the series that can be developed to produce an image that provides great quality with very little, if any, clipping of highlights or shadows. I have recently been using the ACDSee Photo Studio Ultimate 2020 for processing, since it can process most RAW files, including Sony and Nikon, which are the ones I need. Using only the the Develop mode and Light EQ and Color EQ tools, I can quickly get to a very good image with only minor additional adjustments. Thank you for questions and thank you for viewing.

MontanaMonk thanks for the detailed reply, clarified my doubts, what I understood is click RAW, if jpeg then DR5 if the subject is moving, if stationary HDR6 , am I doing ok? I use rx1, rx100 iii and rx10iii for personal use on social media Flickr and instagram

Looks like you're doing just fine with the settings. Great combination of cameras for what you do.

Yes, I have stopped using it for new videos. Thanks for the feedback.

I used the clicks to draw attention to changes on the screen. I probably leave them out in future videos. Thank you for comments and than you for viewing.

@@MontanaMonk Thank you. I still find this camera confusing, so future "how-to" videos would be helpful. I am going to Costa Rica in a few months to shoot birds and wildlife and want to know more about the camera. Thanks again.