I used super glue.

@@patrickmcgeachie1834that’ll work

Do you recommend this for a bush knife? Been looking at this and the Companion. I prefer the traditional wooden/metal handle of the Classic vs the rubber/plastic of the Companion. From what I’ve seen, the blades are similar, but I’d need to file the spine of the Classic if I wanted to use it for fire starting. Any pros/cons? Thanks!

@@punkj1093 for a bushcraft knife its great ,what i did was take a dremle tool to the spine and 5 min later 90 degree spine..

@@punkj1093 both are cheap enough get both and see what you like better. Both great for the price.

Thanks :) Boat tail is a great choice. Keep it up :)

Thanks for the comment :)

Thanks for the tip ;)

Problem with that is the wood will crack, having no room to contract/expand with humidity changes. Wax is a better solution

Nature is beautifull :)

This is my fighting knife.

Yes , exactly 👍 Back in the day they would use horse or pig fat and wax to protect the steel .

@@Spiritof48 bout to make a vid about a Jeff White Knife I just found at a shop.

I usualy use Olive Oil 😉👍

I basicly made a macrame bracelet, then tied the ends around the sheath. Nothing fancy... but it works 🙃

@@TheWildCusli ok. I’ll have to try that too. Thank you.

@@hobonoa7063 same, the classic companions are 2mm thick and never had an issue with mine...

I used Extra Virgin Olive Oil, but im sure any other thin oil should get the same results. I beleive Boiled Linseed Oil would probably work even better, but olive oil is cheeper :)

@@TheWildCusli Thank you! I originally clicked on your video because your sheath caught my attention, but now I keep coming back to admire your handle. I've looked at so many mora vids for a decent looking natural wood handle, and hands down yours is the prettiest I've come across imo. Olive oil makes sense because of the natural shine. And that deep worn dark color fading to that lighter yellow hue over the grain gives it so much character. Seriously good job and thank SO much for the reply! Greatly appreciate it 👍

@@TheWildCusli Hallo. And you just sanded the handle and then boiled in olive oil? Or you're used any stain?

@@jakubfator5562 hello. I just sanded the handle and every once in a while applyied some oil. There was nothing really special that I did, it just got darker with time and use. 🙃

@@TheWildCusli Oh, yup. Thanks for the fast answer. I want the same look. But I'm going to use a carnauba wax yet. After the oil. So I'm curious about the result! 😇

I beleive that at some point I put some sort of glue in there. Not the best quality because after some time it was gone. Nowadays I just squirt some oil in there and leave it be. I dont think that the gap is a huge deal, but its something to look out for. (Keep in mind, not every Mora will have a gap)

@@TheWildCusli Ah, very good. Well, I watched some of your other videos, and it seems you now have some backup Moras if this one ever fails. Seems like it's going strong, though! I enjoy your content! Regards!

@@daveburklund2295 thanks for the message. Apreciate it :)

Hey :) I usually use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, (since its food grade). But I have the knife for a while, so I've actually used many diferent oils on it, such as linseed oil and WD40 😅. I have other knives (moras included) in which I apply the same oils but dont get the same results... because I always end up using my old trustworthy knife. so what i figured is that what actually gives the knife hande its color is just simply using it. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)

@@TheWildCusli Thanks for the feedback, I really appreciate it!!

Son muy buenos cuchillos. No uso el mío en la ciudad porque es ilegal donde vivo. Pero siempre que puedo los tengo en la cintura :)

There is actually a small drainage hole in the bottom. Never had any issued with it :)

There and classic moras with finger guards. I never cut myself for lack of finger guard, so I personaly think they only get in the way. No big deal though, have fun :)

True, a very good permenant fix 👌👏

Nice idea. But isn't solder too weak for it to be permanent? I assume it would break off after some use. Welding would be better I guess but then that means much more effort/cost.

@@JPazer welding would change the temper of the blade.

@@TheWildCusli didnt think of that

The smaller one is a Classic #1/0 😉

@@TheWildCusli Ok, thanks

I usually use Extra Virgin Olive Oil, because its food grade. (whatever brand)

@@TheWildCusli Thanks. I use WD-40 for mine(only the blades) and I wasn't satisfied. I'll give the olive oil a try. For handles, I'll stick to linseed oil, as it polymerises over time and gives good grip and weather protection.

@@heyarnoI've used WD40 as well, and many other oils of that kind. (And still do if I dont have any other) I have also used Linseed oil on the hande, but I prefer something that I can use on both handle and blade. Thats why I usually use olive oil. (And it doesnt leave the knife "tacky") But in the end... I dont think it really maters that much, as long as the knife is well cared for. Thanks for the message, keep it up :)

It's a good idea, probably should work well. Maybe I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip ;)

Try baking soda and superglue

I've done that a couple of times with super glue, but eventually it chips away. Never tried with epoxy though. Thanks for the tip ;)

@@TheWildCusli id try pine resin

@@Ukraineaissance2014 Nice option. I went with bees wax. If it goes grubby I can dig it out with a toothpick and re-apply some fresh wax. I gently melt it into the gap with a lighter. It actually has some anti-bacterial action (foodprep.) and it's pretty much waterproof. I'll go look for some pine resin next dayhike.

@@scrapthrall beeswax is great, I carry a stick in my camping bag always for tasks like that and for waterproofing, as well as it being an extremely long burner in candles

😓

I like the slightly wider handle also.