craig a It is always a good thing to put a dab of an anti-seize paste on sparking plug threads, the steel to aluminium sometime seizes, this prevents this occurring.

@@craigauckram1087 Don't do that. Aluminium head, steel spark plug and copper grease plus high voltage electricity = electrolytic reaction. The head corrodes, and then the spark plug shoots out. Do set the spark plug to the correct gap. They come out of the box at 0.90mm which is incorrect. Too large a gap and they misfire at high revs.

@@craigauckram1087 I've been using anti-sieze for 45 or 50 years. It's messy, so use sparingly! Also, I always change the aluminum washer on the drain plug. And sometimes even use a torque wrench just for fun.

I bought at 2019 last fall, and you're absolutely right, content like this made my buying decision much easier.

It’s not perpendicular, it’s V, bmw it’s perpendicular, this is guzzi

It is total breeze.

@@CapitanTavish the shape of the engine doesnt matter. Its transverse, so the engine layout itself is perpendicular, the angle of the pistons means nothing

@@Thirty-OughtSick poor idiot

@@CapitanTavish BMW is horizontally opposed. There's no such thing as a "perpendicular" engine except in relation to the direction the bike travels, which is what he was saying. I sense the Dunning Kruger is strong in this one. 😂

I think this was not real professional on a few things.

@@Zimmermann310 Witch things ? Thx

@@felixaras1 Ask your mum.

@@Zimmermann310 ok childish.

@@felixaras1 Do you have one? Or it was just lik in many cases a child care?

Barry, we still mostly hand wrench in our workshop. The small blocks have had this style filter forever. The big block Guzzis have had easy access spin on/off filters since 2006 to current. They are magical machines.

Yes, big blocks make it easy for 30 years. Modern small blocks have an oil cooled alternator, so no easy access.

Hi Jesse, thinking in buying a V7 but reading some of the threads regarding to electronics reliability is affecting my decision. What's your experience? TIA Paulo

The crystal must be a disaster.

Thanks, true. Several obvious steps we left out, like starting the engine prior to checking the final level. Some common sense applies. We didn’t post this to get critiqued, more to show those with less knowledge on what’s entailed. We always recommend someone knowledgeable or those somewhat versed in wrenching of course.

Quick follow up: I just changed the gear box and shaft drive (transmission) oil on my V7iii last week. It was pretty easy. The service manual I found on-line helped a lot. This is my first bike with gear oil...man, that stuff smells funky when you drain it. (Like rotten eggs.) Make sure to wear gloves and do it outside if possible, my garage smelled for a few days. (On the V7iii the gear oil drains down on the exhaust cross bar that runs under the bike, due to the placement of the drain plug. I covered that it in tinfoil, which turned out to be a good idea. I didn't end up getting smelly gear oil all over the exhaust cross bar.)

Pleaae do !!

@@daveco1270 how often do you have to to that?

Vic's Garage the gear box and transmission (or rear shaft drive) oil don't have to be changed very often, much less than regular engine oil, but I don't have the exact numbers. I think mine was good for another 20k miles or so after changing it. I sold the bike so I can't check the manual for service intervals. You can find a manual on line and it will have the service intervals listed. I probably didn't need to change gear box and shaft drive oil but the previous owner said he had a friend do his initial break in service, so I wasn't sure what was done. I tend to over change my oils just to get safe. Now I only have one bike in my garage (an old Honda CB750) and it only has one type of oil to change.

How does the Guzzi dealer justify $400. For this? Is this unreasonable?]

@@robertparisi8016 all dealers, whether powersports or cars, overcharge for service. They're probably charging $30+ per quart of oil, so $60+, then $20-30 for the oil filter, throw in another $10 for two $0.50 crush washers and bill out 2 hours shop labor at $100/hr...there's your $400 service friend.

The valves may be closed but the rockers are still moving, you want the point with max gap, ie TDC.

I'm not sure I'm the best person to answer, but I have a v85 TT. I adjusted the valves using the method in the video (with proper lash values for the v85) and I ended up with valves that were definitely too loose/tappy, even when the motor was hottest. I decided to readjust and I used the EOIC method this time. It's super simple and I don't have to worry about being exactly at top dead center. The valves seem just right to me now. The bike idles better with just the right amount of valve tapping. I'm sure there's lots of videos explaining EOIC, but essentially it means you adjust the intake just as the exhaust valve starts to open, and you adjust the exhaust just as the intake starts to close.

Thanks/welcome. We run in between U.S. and Euro Spec - check the sticker on the rear fender under the seat for Euro spec.

I also think that the adjustment measure is not well taken. In the specifications of the workshop manual it says exactly that for the intake they are 0.10mm (0.0039 inches) and for the exhaust 0.15mm (0.0059 inches). There is no difference between the US and Europe because they use the same fuel with the same octane number. Another thing is the pollution standards and there if there may be differences in the exhaust line (lambda probe, catalytic converter and silencer).

Yes, take for sure.

Yes, the same procedure.

Yes, same as it comes off. ;)

Jeff Slade - yes, to save time in the video, oil drained warm. Valves set overnight cold.

Appreciated. Guzzi recommends every 6k. We say 5k to keep the math simple.

Q&A is only for our Forum; www.guzzitech.com/forums/ -- see you there. In short; Inflate your tires, check your Traction Control setting (see your owner's manual), and all will return to normal for you.