Well explained. This is a controversial topic, mostly because people don’t understand what the purpose of the two items are. Once, I got chewed out in front of a group of people, for using dielectric grease on amplifier multi conductor molex connectors that were exposed to the elements. The guy that was giving me hell was a lifelong wireman for the local power company. I knew I was doing the right thing from working aerospace electronics for most of my career. The dielectric grease does more good than any harm due to it’s protective affects on the connection. Seen it been there many times. I decided to take the chewing out instead of causing a war at the time. His wording was “Never, never use dielectric grease on electrical connectors because it will act as an insulator.” Now retired, I wish I had confronted the guy in front of everyone, only to get the “question” cleared up for good.. Bottom line is that dielectric grease works wonders for multi connectors especially exposed to the elements. We really saw major results near the ocean (salt water in the air - oxidation and rusting through of connectors and wires). I agree with you here. / The zinc or carbon or copper dust impregnated grease is good for high current, single connectors such as power line connections, where that connection must flow many electrons well, yet are far away from the other connectors, so shorting out to each other is not an issue. Big difference - Hope I didnt just confuse anyone. Well Explained!

Outstanding lesson on reliable electrical connections and myth busting regarding use of dielectric grease.

Awesome clarification! New to me 500exc started running horrible after the first 2 hours. It would not rev past idle, misfire and the starter quit working. Barley limped it down the trail. The main 20amp fuse under the seat had dirt and water corrosion on it. It caused it to burn black but not pop. So the bike was getting incorrect dirty voltage to the ECU. I put a new fuse in and added a little dielectric grease to the main and spare fuse to keep cleaner from future corrosion.

Nice video! This may help from an aerospace electrical engineer. The only method to make a proper, RELIABLE electrical connection is either 1) Welding or 2) Soldering -- the wire to the terminal AFTER a strong mechanical crimp is made between the wire and terminal. All parts must be very clean. The bond made is between both the connector terminal and the wire. This bond will be made to some molecular depth in each material using welding or soldering (a form or welding). Regarding terminals: In general, the actual alloy % cannot be determined by looking at it. Knowing this becomes important that terminals that look like the same alloy may very well not be. Dissimilar metals made from alloys of some elements that can have a difference in valence electrons at the atomic level between for example terminals like male and female spade connections where one terminal is made from a different ALLOY and has a difference in valence electrons. In the presence of air that contains humidity, this difference between the two different terminal alloys makes an imbalance in valence electrons in the outermost orbital shell of each terminal atoms. This results in a small DC Battery between the two terminals when joined together. This causes Galvanic corrosion between the two spade materials and then after time passes, it results in an increased voltage drop (high resistance) between the two terminals when joined. Crimping without soldering or welding works for a while but is not a reliable electrical connection. Conductive greases are used in certain Electronic components such as Air Variable Capacitor ball bearings that need to conduct between the bearing balls and the races for proper electrical operation. For AMP or MOLEX (like shown in this video) connector housing terminals that are SOLDERED to the wire, we use CAIG Laboratories DeOxIT 100DL, 25ml red bottle with a cut-off hypodermic needle. This small bottle is enough to last a lifetime. Only an extremely small amount of this highly conductive material needs to be applied. Work both male and female terminals together several times to make the molecular bond, then BLOW OUT THE EXCESS of DeOxIt, D100L. You only want a very thin layer on the terminals. If the connector will be used in very harsh environments, i.e., SALT air, High Pollution areas, etc. After following the later use DeOXIT SHIELD and LIGHTLY spray into each connector coating the terminals, then blow out the excess with pressurized air. If you do try the DeOXIt D100L try putting it on the electrodes of your flashlight batteries. The light will be twice as bright and the case will be closed with no doubt. Hope this helps.

Great educational, you've convinced me NOT to use conductive on my Buell bike. Thanks for taking the time to make this.

Over 90% of mating electrical contact surfaces are actually air gap. If you looked at them under an electron microscope you'd see that the "flat" surfaces look like a mountain range and only the interfering peaks make electrical contact. Those microscopic interfering peaks exert incredible pressure per square nanometer and squeeze out the grease from between them.

In my experience with di electric grease, I once put it directly on top of 8 spark plugs, liberally. Had all kinds of misfires. Removed and cleaned well, no more misfires. I still use it very sparingly on the boot, with a q tip to spread evenly. I will be using 847 to install 00 wire and terminals to a high voltage battery. Just sharing my experience. A well portrayed video I might add. Good day.

Although it is very expensive, in my trade (Helicopter maintenance) we use a product called Stabilant 22 on all important connection, Even the engine manufacturers say to apply this product to all cannon plugs pin/sockets, including the engine ECU, every time a connection is removed and installed. I use it on all of the contacts of my bike, ECU included, and use DC4 dielectric grease on the waterproof lip seals of sealed connectors. From their website: "Stabilant 22 is an initially non-conductive block polymer that when used in a thin film within contacts switches to a conductive state under the effect of the electrical field. The field gradient at which this occurs is set such that the material will remain non-conductive between adjacent contacts in a multiple pin connector environment. Thus, when applied to electromechanical contacts, Stabilant 22 provides the connection reliability of a soldered joint without bonding the contacting surfaces together!"

Interesting there's a controversy about these two connector greases. I've only used non conductive silicone-based dielectric. At dealership and later in my career on a lot of Emergency Equipment for a municipality. Never an issue. I always find your delivery concise and informative. A (relatively) new Taco Moto customer!

Another great video, Mike. Clear, concise, to the point.

Thank you for a most excellent explanation. I learned exactly what I did not fully grasp. 👍🏻👍🏻

thank you very much for this most intelligent and helpful video. i cannot believe how much misinformation about dielectric grease is out there for the common minded person. MOST HELPFUL.

Excellent video! This answered all of my questions completely. I sincerely appreciate the detailed explanations. I can't thank you enough. Well done.👍

Great informational video.i will use this information every time I work on my cars

I had the exact MG conducive grease in my cart. Your explanation makes 100% sense!!!! Going with dielectric.

Best videos on the web! Thanks again

Good video. I especially like that the meter is on the diode setting instead of resistance. But meh, still a quality myth busting.

Great info, thanks for sharing this great explanation.

Excellent and very informative video. Thanks

Great video! Answered all my Qs. Thx

Mom said if I use this grease, I'll go blind :)

Great video, very well explained and now the myth is no more.

so good. thank you TacoMike!

Very informative, thanks.

I find the dielectric grease very necessary for the Sicass wiring harness. it is open to water shorting out the harness.

Thanks for this video 👌

Really Useful! Thx!

A video about what constitutes circuit cleaners would be interesting, my findings is that it is just brake cleaner and mineral oil. The brake cleaner flashes off after cleaning leaving the nonconductive mineral oil as a lube and protective layer. Thanks for the great video!

Oooh, PERFECT, PERFECT, PERFECT. I've been having grounding issues on my trailer and wondered if I could use a silicone grease to keep the nuts and bolts for the lights and grounding from rusting/corroding and losing their conductivity. I will give it a try. Thanks.

I'm laughing so hard, I'm crying..., "...please send me all your stupid links...". Brilliant!!!

Great video. I wish this had been out when I was initially trying to understand this. So many conflicting sources. I read a lot and eventually ended up with the right conclusions, but it was still nerve wracking the first time I put dialectric grease in a terminal. Needless to say it all works fine and I have never had any corrosion issues. I'm glad for the validation.

Taco Moto is correct. I have used gallons of this on high voltage connections (7 Kv and above) . Somehow the silicone ends up in my garage...

Ahem --- a couple minor 'typos': But First; I MUST SAY what an EXCELLENT VIDEO!! Thank You! 'Typo' @6:05 That is the film breakdown voltage, not the voltage 'rating': A film 1 mil thick will withstand 500V. So, a 2 mil film would resist 1,000V, 3 mil - 1500V, 4 mil 2KV, etc. On a spark plug boot for instance, where the current would have to penetrate a half inch or more, it can resist 10s of kilovolts. Typo on your meter - it is on 'diode' test, not ohms... Your reading was ~1.4V drop across the grease track (unknown current). I was hoping to see the actual ohms reading, as I am not curious enough to buy something that I will likely not use, just to satisfy my thirst for technical knowledge... Again, I LOVED you video! I was surfing to find tips, and instead was astounded by the misinformation and misconceptions I ran into! Found yours in effort to find someone to refute all the bad advice. There actually are some places where silicone grease can cause harm: One I learned about is that you shouldn't put ANY grease on a Ox sensor connector - it will impede it's operation! It actually uses the air INSIDE the wire leads to supply the reference atmospheric Ox concentration... Grease will block airflow through the wire strands... [I know, sounds incredible, and I doubted it; but I researched it from the manufacturers and technical papers. Apparently is true.] Unfortunately, I think I may have done this on a friends car or two... I am very meticulous, and can count my bad mistakes on one hand. Mr K L

Thank you for the clarification. I’ve been told to use bulb grease (aka dielectric) to improve the connections. I had thought it was conductive.

That is the way I always use dielectric grease. on the plug-in type with the seal, I also lightly coat the seal itself but apply a light coating to the connecting blades as well.

Thank you for telling some truth!!!

I was an electrician for 43 years. Mostly 277 VAC and lower. Retired due to a bad bike crash in 2015, can not remember any of 2014. I used Dielectric grease on all connectors that were in moist air. Worked in Seattle down on the water front so salty air everywhere. I did use carbon infused grease on heavy Bus Bar connections but those were isolated from each other. A small dab in a crimp lug, insert the wire, crimp it then wipe the excess off. A few other electricians that were on the NEVER EVER use it had many more call backs weeks later due to corrosion in connectors. A quick squirt in a wire nut and spin it on the wires and its water resistant. Nothing is 'Water Proof', look at the Grand Canyon, was solid rock.

The carbon base conductive grease , is mainly for moving mechanical ground straps on machinery, no way would I install in a multi pin connector. Mechanical moving ground straps can make noise without grease, and the conductivity of the grease ensures continuity, verses using some non conductive grease which could cause a loss continuity.

Thank you.

Great, thorough explanation. Could you please do a video explaining the difference between silicone dielectric grease and silicone grease. I have dielectric grease and would like to use it for lubricating O rings. Is there any reason dielectric grease would not work just as well as silicone grease for lubrication of O rings, gaskets and other silicone grease uses? Thanks

Never had any issues with Dielectric grease at all.

seems like the conductive stuff might be a could candidate for ground terminals were you have a bunch of stacked rings.

Hi TACO MOTO - is the Permatex 22058 dielectric grease a good one to use as well?

Jet-Lube copper anti-seize is fantastic for applications that require a solid conductive contact!.

Put the grease on after making the solid connection! The whole point is you’re going to smear it all over anyway right?

The proper use of dielectric is to add it after you connect the terminals. Meaning it just insulates the connection from external air and moisture to prevent oxidation. It has nothing to do with the electrical connection which is metal to metal anyway...

We only use it on switches that need lubricant and conductivity but yet we need it to be 0 ohms so we lose none of the RF signal in the switch as well. So you need to find the one that is not carbon based as a resistor is used for the same reason to resist flow of signal or electrons so a non carbon based conductive lubricant is what I am looking for that is most likely high dollar as well.

I think dielectric grease is meant to prevent corrosion, and possible arcing due to a loose connection by insulating the electron flow. Please correct and advise if my theory is incorrect. I installed a new performance MSD ignition coil, NGK wires, colder iridium spark plugs but forgot to apply dielectric grease between the wires and ignition coil. The car ran GREAT at high revs for a few days, then a misfire caused the car to go into limp mode. I knew it was either the new MSD ignition coil, or the NGK wires. I removed the ignition coil and one of the contacts showed sign of arcing.

I have two instances that I need your wisdom on: 1.) Proper battery terminal installation. My first thoughts would be that either the dielectric or electrically conductive grease would be fine. (There’s no chance of shorting or arcing because terminals are isolated) or I could use dielectric grease because it’s simply another mechanical metal to metal connection. (If everything is tightened properly) 2.) on crimped terminal ends underneath shrink wrap. I shouldn’t use dielectric grease because it might circumvent some surface electrical connection/especially if it gets between the individual strands on the cable. Electrically conductive grease would be fine and dandy underneath shrink wrap. What about regular silicone? The stuff that dries. Should I treat it like dielectric essentially? Thanks in advance! Edit* spelling

Question is, is dielectric grease the same as silicone brake grease (for caliper pins, etc.)?

I have a connector for air conditioner that i have unplug and plug back in order to work,¿what can i do to have more connectivity with out unplug it?

Only one slight disagreement with you. I put a tiny bit of grease on the pins before sliding a connector together. This is where a little goes a long way. Nothing worse than corroded connectors. Good video!

For the non sealed 2/4 pin connectors, such as the headlight or fan, how would you apply the grease in this situation? Making sure to not use too much or too little? I used a clear silicone seal to water proof the open ends of the connectors to prevent corrosion, it just makes sense to do this in addition to that.

I've been using dielectric grease, didn't know conductive existed. My problem is my RAM 5500 keeps vibrating my bulb connection loose.

I learned something today! I’m some cases I’ve been using the grease wrong. Is there a way to help connector contacts to be more conducive? Like a product that’ll remove electrolysis on the connector?

Yes the dielectric grease does block the flow of electricity but the curved sides of the female will cut through the grease and force an electrical connection between the male and female parts. The grease will flow into the areas that are not in contact and will therefore block the ingress of water and stops rusting or corroding from occurring. For a sealed connector, You can use grease, but don't use it inside the connector. Only put it around the outside of the connector only.

Awesome tutorial for understanding how to apply which grease on automotive applications. I'm a complete noob, but have used die-electric on spark plug boots, etc. I had a question about a specific application. I've currently got a volume knob/encoder opened on a '91 Mercedes E class Becker 1350 special. Behind the volume shaft, there's a rotor that is a little bit of clear grease on it. Now I am attempting to clean it, bear in mind these parts are smaller than a dime. Another channel called this grease 'conductive grease' but it's clear. So before I get the grease off to clean it, I wanted to ask if my reapplication of die-electric grease on this rotor/disc would work? Or should I not clean it at all. The volume knob works both as a volume control and a push button, if that helps.

This channel says not to goop it on contacts, just on the surrounding non contact areas like rubber seal or porcelain of spark plug. So they are using it incorrectly? You can splooge it in around the contact?

Where's your source? Amazon only has it in 5 lb containers. Jet lube only list a few spots nation wide. With the only one in the west not stocking it and wanting a minimum order.

Dude, your meter is on forward voltage, not impedance.

1:50 You are not set up to ohms. You have the meter set to continuity and diode check.

It is SUCH a pity that good information like this can be negated by poor multimeter use. I don't think he's trying to hide anything by having the meter set incorrectly.

Hi ty for this video. Very thorough. I'm concerned I added too much dielectric grease to my spark plug cowls and the grease may have coated the inner connector. Can you tell me what electrical contact cleaner you use?

As long as the connector is clean and has good continuity before and after grease , the dielectric will insulate and not hender continuity. But if you have a poor mechanical or dirty connection, the grease can increase resistance and build heat enough to melt plastic connectors, like stator wiring that puts out alot of current. Ive seen this when people already have damaged electrical connectors, then add the grease which generally makes a bad mechanical connection, worse..

Excellent video and you are correct on most points. My only comment is that I would make the mechanical electrical connection FIRST and then coat with dielectric. This will ensure that you maximise the metal-to-metal surface area instead of depending on the connectors displacing the dielectric.

is it good idea to apply a bit conductive grease into joystick potentiometer conductive pad?

odd to do a continuity test and then not do it on camera tho ;)

forget all the aerospace guys who use them, right? keyboard warriors know best! thanks for this good info, bro.

👍ℹ️

Do you have any insight on ( No-Nox-Id ‘ A Special ‘ )conductive grease or WD - 40

Wd40 marine grade

You've got the meter on diode instead of ohms.

Can you use dieletric grease on RJ45 terminals

Seems the conductive would be good for battery terminals...

Water that is pure is not conductive, it is the impurities that is/are conductive . So the statement 'as conductive as water' isn't quite correct.

“electroysis”? don’t use fancy words you don’t know

15 minutes to do what a less than two minute video would have clearly shown which is better conductive

YOUR PUTTING IT ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CONNECTION AND THAT MIGHT BE FINE FOR A ONE TIME CONNECTION BEFORE HAND BUT LET'S USE LOGIC. IF YOU HAVE A TRAILER PORT AND PLUG THAT YOU ARE REPEATEDLY TAKEN ON AND OFF ; AND FROM THIS OF COURSE THE CONNECTORS OVER TIME GET LOSE AND LET'S SAY, LET'S JUST SAY THAT A GAP FORMS AND FROM THIS SLIGHT GAP ELECTRICITY CAN STILL EASILY JUMP ACROSS FROM METAL TO METAL. BUT IF YOU PUT IN BETWEEN THAT GAP A CRAP LOAD OF NON LET ME SAY IT AGAIN CRACKPOT AS YOU SO CALLED YOURSELF , NON CONDUCTIVE MATERIAL IN THIS CASE DI-ELECTRICAL GREASE THEN THIS NON CONDUCTIVE MATERIAL, HENCE WILL NOT , LET'S SAY AGAIN WILL NOT ALLOW AN ELECTRICAL CONNECTION. IT'S THAT SIMPLE. HELL TO GO ONE EVEN FURTHER YOU DEMONSTRATED IN YOUR OWN VIDEO WITH YOUR MULTI METER. WHAT HAPPENED WHEN YOU YOU TOOK THE MULTI METER AND PUT TWO METAL PRONGS ON THE DI- ELECTRICAL GREASE , AH I DON'T KNOW , NOTHING ABSOLUTELY NOTHING, WHY BECAUSE ONCE AGAIN IT'S NON CONDUCTIVE. SO QUIT BEING NAIVELY IGNORANT THINKING THAT YOUR APPLICATIONS APPLY TO ALL THAT'S JUST BEING STUPID PURPOSELY.