Those cars were my dad's wheelhouse when I was growing up. I bet he rebuilt 100s of these. I bet if he were still alive you could have a nice conversation. He was a mechanic in the 60s and 70s. He retired in 1981.

The 2100 is a great carb. I rebuilt one during a community college class on engine building where I rebuilt a Ford 302 2V. I owned several 2100s on other Ford V8s, and never had trouble with them. This may not be particular to 2100s, but late 60s mid-sized Fords often had the throttle linkage set from the factory with only about ⅔ of gas pedal travel. Readjusting the threaded rod on the throttle linkage to full travel unlocked a lot of engine power.

thanks for a clear, concise lesson! i am not mechanical. This is my first look inside a carburetor!

Been there and done that on my old '68 Cougar, but it was a small block. Look at those cooling fins still intact on that power steering cooler!

Thanks for that video! I have the 2100 on my '69 Marquis, and the carb was one of the first things I needed to do. Mine was in even greater need of a rebuild. Although I had a professional shop rebuild it, while I put on a new 2100 compatible carb from Amazon (which works excellently btw.) So now I have the OEM Motorcraft one rebuilt and ready on the shelf should the need arise. I am saving this video for future reference. I was hypnotized by your endless tapping of the power valve!

Great video! Thanks for no BS music or other non sense. Straight to the point and valuable info.

Happy New Year Adam, your tutorial on rebuilding the carburetor is very easy to understand. You're an excellent instructor!!! 🎈🥳🎉

Hey Adam, . .good tutorial. Never knew you did them. My bad. Had a '68 Javelin with a baff'd 343 4bbl & FMX auto. Trans went and ended up changing the entire drivetrain. Found a '77 304 with the Motorcraft 2150 ( smog variant ) carb. Rebuilt the carb and threw a Chryco 904 auto with a shift kit in it and added headers. Figured I saved 80 lbs. with the new powertrain. ( the FMX was a cast iron boat anchor ) I never tracked it but driving it, I reckoned I match'd the factory performance of that car. On unleaded fuel to boot ! oh the times we had as " kids " !

Great video, Adam. You should more tinkering videos 😃👍🏻

This was very illuminating, thank you, Adam. I look forward to Part 2.

14 year old me, rebuilt my Autolite 2100 in my bedroom on a cold winter night. My parents bought me a Ford Falcon with a 260. My mom was so mad at the smell when they noticed what I was doing. My dad was proud as me when it started right up and had a great idle. Love your videos and content!!!

Happy new year 🎉 ✨️

Happy New Year 2023 from Malaysia Adam. Your approach to diagnosis and repairing is a welcome relief from the R&R(throw away old unit and fit a new part)nonsense nowadays. Have a great year.

Our high school auto instructor had a huge chest of 2100's we went through in class.

My grandmother of my moms side of fam, bought a 1970 MACH 1 w/351 Cleveland, MT &, 9” rear end back @ 1972… my grandfather of same side ended up buying a 1971 Torino Ranchero GT w/351 Cleveland, C6 A/T &, 9” rear end.. I ended up getting the Ranchero from them in ‘94 & added about 250,000 more miles to the 250K miles it already had on it from them, by the time I regrettably sold it @ 2012. Anyway, both of those cars’ carbs looked exactly the same as this version on your ‘68 & both of those Cleveland’s had more then enough power for whenever needed. I maintained all of their different vehicles over the years back then and had rebuilt both of them carbs at least twice each over the decades they drove them around & rebuilt the one on Ranchero another few times during the decades I owned it… very simplistic carbs! I did have one particular issue with the one on my Ranchero within say, the last decade of use, of having the skinny brass metering jet tubes fall loose from the pop metal holder a few times; concluded the pop metal of that jet holder was just shot or worn out. Was but a 15 minute quick repair I could do of separating the carbs’ upper half while carb remained on engine, removing the jet holder, retrieving one or both jets, shoving those back up into holder as tightly as I could & replacing all parts… that’d last for about another year or so before they’d fall loose again. Point is, per your mentioning of symptoms/diagnoses, yeah, I drove that one long enough to very much know exactly when and what was about to become a bigger problem! Great vid & info! Keep up your great YT chan!

I remember on some old TV shows teenage boys “boiling out” a carburetor on their mom’s stove much to her dismay!

Happy New Year Adam! So glad I found your channel this year. Looking forward to a lot of exciting content for 2023!

My Corvair has two one barrels. Do one at a time and you have the other carb as a reference. No photos required.😀 No power valve on the Corvair.

I used to be pretty good with carbs, it's been a long time since I did one. I had a 69 F250, after a carb rebuild it would be a really sweet runner. It was an easy carb to rebuild. My very first rebuild was a Rochester 2bbl on my 65 Pontiac Tempest 326. It had quite an acceleration stumble when I got it, the rebuild straightened that right out!

Great video can’t wait for part two

Adam you are a genius! Thanks for making it so easy. Happy new year!

These are the easiest carbs to fix or rebuild ever. They are also incredibly durable and provide very reliable performance, unlike their 4 bbl cousins in Fords back then.

I had one of these rebuilt last week. It's for an 1978 Ford F150 5.8L. It was running fine, but it was starting to leak from the accelerator pump. I was charged $260 on the vehicle, $160 if you drop it off. I dropped the vehicle off in the morning and picked it up in the afternoon. It was tuned and now, it's running better than it was before! For me it was worth the extra $100!

Happy New Year, Adam. Thanks once again for sharing. Because Ford is an Engineering company that builds cars, the S code got its 265 HP engines carb size downgraded to 1.21 for 67 onwards. The 1966 390 Autolite 2100 1.33 had a C6 MF code. 424 cfm. I'm looking on your tag code. Pretty sure it's a smaller carb. I used the bigger 1.33 on my mates Chrysler Hemi 265 2bbl. The old Autolites are simply exceptionally good. For the Bowl vent emissions era, the 2bbls got more and more emaciated each year.

Great vid!! 👍👍

Wow, you really loved that stuck power valve.

You see that heater hose bracket up against the choke housing? I took one off a Ford and put it onto my Chevrolet. If i set my choke to close up nicely, it wouldn't open up all the way. If i set my choke to open up nicely, it wouldn't close all the way. That addition fixed it. Ingenious.

HAPPY NEW YEAR TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY ADAM,, GREAT VIDEO'S !!!!

I just took apart my very first Carburetor last night! I took pictures, I just hope I can remember how it all goes together. It’s off of a 53 Buick

From my memory of your other videos, a good tip might be to take pics before you begin, and compare them to shop manuals to make sure that someone hasn't hooked things up improperly before you got the car.

Happy New Year Adam. I have to say I never seen an old carb as clean as this one. I also have no carb bucket. I do spend a lot of time cleaning the inside, outside and especially each small passage. Thanks for another great video.

Happy New Year, Adam! Wonderful explanation. Looking forward to the Part 2. What causes that "green goo"? Old fuel, dirty fuel, water in the fuel? Does the gas tank need a cleaning? Would some fuel-system cleaner product help? Just curious to understand what caused this. All the best for 2023! You're on your way to creating the richest, most detailled, most enjoyable archive of American automobile history ever. (The Adam Wade Museum?) Thank you!

Great aspect of your channel - excellent down and dirty "jake the wrench" how tos that compliment the styling and features beauty pagent. Well done.

Enjoy your videos, noticed a Lucas Ford decal, still in business, family owned since 1953, 75 bought many a Crown Vic there, they also own a Chevrolet and Chrysler dealership about 7 miles away, switched to Chrysler 300C with a HEMI as 4.6 just didn't do for me have a great New Years

Those were so simple to keep running they would get a little dirty I would just take the top off right on the engine and clean everything slap it back together and it ran like nothing was ever wrong with it⛽️🇺🇸

Love the show, and your cars! In the 80's, I worked as a mechanic in Dallas, and rebuilt hundreds of carbs, including dozens of Motorcraft 2100's. However, I never saw rust on the throttle plates. I recently rebuilt the Carter 2bbl on a '72 Dodge 318 in a Winnebago, also no rust... I have to wonder, what caused so much rust in the intake tract? I suspect that there has been a coolant leak into the intake side of cylinder heads or intake manifold at some point in this car's history, but I haven't worked on many cars from the rust belt. Have you seen rust on other throttle plates in your collection? Enquiring minds want to know. Thanks for sharing, you have some great cars!

This was great!

Thanks for doing removal of springs and stuff so we can watch

HI ADAM ,, GREAT IDEA ABOUT TAKEN A PICTURE,, POWER BELT SPRING ,, INTERESTING.. PART 2 CARB. GREAT.. I DONT USE A FLASH LIGHT NO LONGER I USE A HEAD LIGHT IT WORKS GREAT ,,HANDS FREE TO WORK ON PARTS.. THANKS..

the 4100 on my 64 Galaxie is a great carb!

Adam, Would you say rebuilding a 2 barrel carburetor is twice as difficult as rebuilding a 1 barrel and twice as easy as rebuilding a 4 barrel? 🤔

Very good. Could you clean out that pump and spring to see if it operated properly so you could keep it as a spare?

That carb has been rebuilt fairly recently because it is so clean inside. Then it probably just sat and corroded the power valve shaft and the accelerator pump deteriorated

Reminds me of the Shadetree mechanic show

MY high school teacher said to think of the float and float bowl as a toilet tank and the float as the "fill valve float" Happy New Year to All.....

Cool look see in that carb looks like the same power valve in a holly

Hi Adam! Just found this video. Worked on a 2100 today on a 1978 f-250 I have. Quick question, can power valves be cleaned, soaked or otherwise to bring them back? Just wondering, I don’t really know how they work or what they’re made of.

The cars of the 60's were so simple compared to what is being built today. There is really little a shade tree mechanic can do on modern cars due to the complexity and lack of underhood space.

Stabil cause the green in the power valve and bowl? I've seen that stuff screw up carbs before

Any word on part II?

What possessed Ford to go from simple carbs to the Venturi Veriable?

I think the accrealtor spring tenson adjustment was for KIDS to help slow them down. LOL

Great Video! I need your help. I just had my 2100 carburetor rebuilt for my 68 Mercury Monterey. I installed it with new gaskets below and above the spacer. Now I'm getting a very load whistling sound. I think it may be a vacuum leak around the gasket. I tried another set of gaskets and got the same thing. What can i do to seal such a leak? Is the any type of fuel resistant sealant I can apply that would solve my issue? Thanks.

I am looking at a stock 1976 Ford Elite with a 400m 2bbl, but I am hesitant on buying it because the car won't hold an even idle. I believe the motor is unmolested with all the unnecessary smog still hooked up. Does anyone know what would be the most likely cause of this symptom. With the idle set a bit faster (bouncing between 1200 to 1500 RPM), the car doesn't stumble off the line, but with it set to bounce between 600 and 1000 RPM it does. The car seems to run fine otherwise. If it's a carb or points/coil issue, I may consider buying it, but if the timing chain needs to be replaced, the car just does not have enough value to pull the trigger.

Do I see two fuel filters at the carb?

Good time to renew rubber fuel lines with gasohol resistant material. Another KZfaq channel, Waylon Wire, had a nice old Chevrolet truck engine fire from a leaking line.

Can’t you just clean the power valve and the orifice?

Adam, the old power valve has a stronger spring calibrated to enrich the mixture at higher loads, the replacement power valve will actuate at much lower loads. There maybe a vacuum rating number stamped on the valves.

What brand of carb kits do you use?

Been there, done that. 302, 351 and ThunderJet 429 4V. Sooo many vacuum hoses....

It’s all fun and games until you snap off the corner of the base plate.

My opinion , easiest carb to rebuild ever , with a Carter YF in second place , the Q jet , not a good relationship.

Very simple! Just replace it with a 650 CFM Holly carb.