I appreciate yur trust in what I do. Thank you!

We need more top notch explanations from other techies. Wish everybody was as easy to understand as DM. Thanks I'm subscribed and taking notes.

Thanks for the kind words! Glad you are enjoying the videos we create.

Glad it was helpful!

Thank you for studying and becoming much more knowledgeable!

7

Glad it was helpful!

Welcome back to our beloved sport! Thank you for watching and learning.

Thanks Bryan - hopefully you have some great results and improved handling as a result of your willingness to learn more and then apply it :)

So if i were to compress the spring, would that help me from the rebound to feel slow? and also not sag so much? but too much compression would lead to the risk of having a "pogo bounce" and let my tire to lose traction?

Preload isnt the spring pushing back, but rather how compressed the spring is before you add the weight of a rider, passenger and or luggage. You want the spring, when you are riding, to be able to both extend into pot holes and compress over bumps.

I appreciate you taking the time to post and thanks for the positive comment.

Thank you! I appreciate you taking the time to post your comment. Enjoy the channel!

Thank you for taking the time to acquire the mathematical difference and the net effect on rake/steering. Which sag setting did you find worked best?

@@CatalystReactionSBW R1200GS or 1250 or GSA w ESA seems to really have 46mm of rear sag change from two helmet setting to one, an empty bike with 170#. 200mm total, two helmet setting can leave only 15mm rider sag but the head tube steepens up 1.75 deg (tangent of 1.75deg = 46/1507 wheelbase) and likes to turn. The OEM shock has 3 electronic settings, now call max fixed (for offroad), or auto or min. fixed (to dismount easier). You are fine man. Thanks. I'm 220# and use helmet plus luggage setting, sag around 62.

I learned just as you did, and sometimes reached for the first aid kit :)

Yes, there are some bikes that let you see if but you have to use tools like a drift and hammer.

No matter what you own from this point on, now you can set up any bike ergo, suspension and geometry via the videos to make your bike truly YOURS! :)

I have been to a Ride Smart track event before but I have never been to COTA. If Ride Smart would allow me to travel to help riders (ie: they do not have a suspension technition helping riders at the event), I would travel to COTA .

Thank you! Set sag in the 30-40mm range. Set compression at 50% of the total range. Ride and see how much fork and shock travel you use and adjust accordingly. Ideal fork travel is 20-25mm above marked bottom out and shock is 2-4mm above the bottom out bumper.

@@CatalystReactionSBW will try this .. thanks a tons for responding 👍🏼

Up the preload, add 6psi to each tire and add a little more compression (.25 to .5 of a turn).

If it throws you off your seat, the setting is too hard.

@@dreamdiction or rebound is too fast.

Have you measured sag to determine if the suspension is too soft or too hard? I prefer to know: davemosstuning.com/?s=setting+sag. You also need to check static sag to see what you have as zero will through you out of the seat as well: davemosstuning.com/?s=static+sag. Got through these processes to assess where you are with sag then you can understand why you are leaving the seat.

Yes, provided via weight that fork and shock travel are optimal.

Thanks for the kind words! kzfaq.info/get/bejne/orZmltGa0Luqqps.html

Also this one davemosstuning.com/2-clicks-out-2018-mt-09-fz-09-street-suspension-setup/

Check travel used on the forks and shock. If you are very close to bottom, you know what to do :)

Thank you for watching in Puerto Rico! Unfortunately they are not. YSS or similar company makes shocks that can be serviced.

Tape measure through the swing arm while someone pushes against the side stand the elevate the bike.

try a dirt bike shop if you have one close - they adjust preload all the time or find a local riding group. There will be someone in it that is handy with the shock preload tool. Once preload is set, don't forget about rebound and compression!

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks for the advice. I will definitely look into that.

Hi Tom. You will need to acquire a nut and washer to secure the upper yoke to the steering stem between the bar riders and the bolts each side to secure it to the fork. Tighten the center nut first, then tighten the side bolts last.

7:40

@@Mattschindig Thanks, missed that one ;-)

@@vonKragh No worries. I do it myself.

Buzzetti is the name. Google it and shop locally to get the best deal. Plenty of places sell it.

@@CatalystReactionSBW thanks very much 👍 .....

@@DylanGSXR Mine came from an old peddle cycle, does the job.

1. The shock shaft inside the spring shows less than 50% travel used at all times with stock settings. 2. On a more technical level, there is no static sag at all so the rider is bumped out of the seat frequently on moderate roads. Changing stock settings to get 12-15mm static sag and assessing shock travel can eliminate much of that. 3. Damping for compression and rebound is set incorrectly amplifying bumps.

Hi Gilberto. How much do you weigh with normal clothes, how many kms on the odometer, what have you changed for weight savings on the bike, what tire brand, model and sizes are you using, are you solo or with a passenger?

@@CatalystReactionSBW im sorry but only now i coud find your answer, Im not a "you tube tec", thank you very much for your answer for me. Well,

My weigh with normal clothes is 95 kg, the bike as 43000 km. Im not changes any thing in the suspension, all the regulation in front and rear is from de the service manual, the tires in front is 110/70/19 rear is 150/70/17, daily a ride solo with a top case (givi +/- 5 kg). This wonderfull bike is a Honda VFR 1200 XA Dual clush transmisson 2012. I hope you understand my english. Thanks for your help Gilberto

I forgot: the tyres is a Michelin PR4 Trail (front and rear) in perfect condition. Thanks again

The heavier you are, the more preload you use IF you get close to maximum travel, so ability is a big factor too.

If the rear shock is shorter, the front MUST be lowered to compensate.

www.amazon.com/Buzzetti-Adjustable-Shock-Pre-Load-Wrench/dp/B00BR1ZVJG

If you have two fork springs you can change one to a softer rate. if they are linear springs and for example you had 1.0 rate in the right leg, you would drop down to a .95 in the left leg. You would never drop from 1.0 to .90

If possible, always measure with hot oil. You can use existing settings in place for hydraulics or you can remove all compression damping (leave rebound as is). Do comparative measuring to see with your bike, your shock set up and oil age if there is any profound difference between settings.

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thank you, it makes sense if I think of it .

In this case at max preload with compression at .5 from max, check the shock shaft for travel used. If you bottom out a new spring is needed.

@@CatalystReactionSBW thanks Dave👍

www.scooter-center.com/en/hook-spanner-buzzetti-for-oe-25-70mm-7675870

You can do standard maintenance of air filter, spark plugs, oil and filter, coolant. A professional should do regular throttle body sync's with correct valve adjustment inspections/changes, Total life expectancy would be 70-80,000 miles.

Thanks for advice Dave! I hope you are staying safe from this dumb virus!? I am lucky to still be working through this rough time. Anyway, I haven't had many good weather days because I live in Xenia,Ohio. Do you know Brock from Brocks racing? He lives around Beavercreek,Ohio.If you're ever in town you gotta see some straight line drag racing at Kil-Kare race way in Xenia,Ohio.

@@minnie19booboo I would absolutely be up to watch some drag racing :)

@@minnie19booboo Thanks and let's see what the future holds for us all in the next 2-3 months.

That would be correct in literal terms.

If you have not corrected the fork position to match the rear lowering amount, you will struggle on entry as the bike will be hard to turn and exit where the bike will tend to run wide.

Lowering is a good idea for any bike if that allows you to stay safer when riding. The downside is less ground clearance and harder to pick up off the side/kick stand. Using adjustable (not pre-drilled) lowering links for the rear shock and then resetting fork position is the cheapest way to go. If you want to take travel away from the shock internally with a spacer, that can be done.

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks Dave!

idcspring.com/spring-lose-tension-when-compressed/ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compressive_strength In the first link, a spring company describes the compression strain as "tension". In the second link, along with everything else google finds regarding spring nomenclature, the extension strain on an extension spring is called "tension" while the compression strain on a compression spring has no name (I could give you the historical linguistics as to why, but I'm being too pedantic already). Hence the common substitution of "tension spring" for "extension spring" throughout engineering literature. However, IDC Spring company seems to be ahead of the lexical power curve and does refer to the compression strain as tension. They appear to use the term "tension" to label/name the strain on a spring regardless whether that strain is extensive/positive or compressive/negative. That said, Dave Moss might satisfy more engineers if he said, "I'm going to strain the spring" or "I'm going to add some strain to the spring / I'm going to remove some strain from the spring". Using the word "compression" for the spring in a motorcycle suspension context becomes problematic because the hydraulics have a "compression" component to them for which there is no suitable nomenclative substitute. But what do I know? I'm just an annoying linguist (who just coined the term "nomenclative").

@@okboomer1241 I appreciate your research and reply. As an engineer, I actually use those machines linked in the Wiki for product testing in RD! In the engineering world, strain is a measurement of elongation. It’s in the equation itself too - which is a result of tensile force or tension. Stress/strain graphs are an example. I didn’t know companies use the incorrect term and I wonder why. Maybe you’re right - not to confuse it with the damper’s compression adjuster. Or just sloppy nomenclature.

@@okboomer1241 I just noticed the first link and read the opening paragraph. They used compression and tension interchangeably haha. That’s really wrong haha.

@@TWIRKNOLOVE The era of "appeals to authority" is over. The spring company is an authority, you're an authority, Moss is an authority. This is getting as bad as epidemiology and climate "science." What's next? Gravity won't be a force anymore?

When you set sag, you can raise or lower the seat height.

When the spring turns in conjunction with the adjusting ring it does so as a complete spring. The only stress is the friction between the spring and adjusting ring plus the holder at the base of the shock spring to lock it in place.

Change to 1.1kg/mm fork springs and a 13kg shock spring. That would be the minimum. Fresh fork and shock oil will help a lot.

@@CatalystReactionSBW thank you very much. I'll snag those up. Last time I ride was a decade ago on a 90 gsxr 1100 and I was 175 pounds so suspension replacement was not a worry lol. If that's the minimum size do you have a recommended size?

@@lovepcgaming2335 Those are the recommended springs for you solo with bags and with adjustment range for your wife.

@@CatalystReactionSBW thank you again very much.

Softer settings lets the suspension move more. If that is the case, the suspension compresses more and swat height might be less. This also depends on the material in the seat foam.

stiffer

Does it also change the height of the seat?

Same stiffness. You only adjust ride height when you adjust so called "preload".

@@emilpartanen8719 - hooray, my thoughts entirely.

A shock spring can be progessive in ID between top and bottom (one wider than the other), progressive in shape (narrow at both ends and wider in the middle), then it can be progressive between each coil based on close to big gaps between each coil). Compressing with more preload the spring will in essence make the spring more resistant to travel. That will in turn force the shock apart and raise ride height (same with the forks).

@@CatalystReactionSBW it will force the shock apart but the spring length will remain the same so it cannot be stiffer. When the shock cannot be forced apart any further and the spring preload actually compresses and shortens the length of the spring, then it will make the suspension stiffer and more resistant to movement. A progressive spring is still a spring with the weight of the bike on it. So surely adding preload, but not shortening the length of the spring will never make it stiffer. The fact that, as you say, adding preload will force the shock apart and raise the ride height of the bike leaving the spring at the same length, would also say the the spring cannot therefore be any stiffer. Preload can only really be for ride height adjustment for the adjustment of static and dynamic sag?

@@thedonkey60 Finally, someone appears to know how springs work. If there is any sag in the suspension (which will be true for any sanely setup motorcycle), then changing preload does nothing but change the sag. The force in the spring balances the sprung weight (which does not change), so preload does not change the force in the spring. And preload sure does not change spring stiffness, which is defined by the spring geometry (coil diameter, active wire lenght, etc.). It surely does not matter if we're using a linear or progressive spring. Of course, changing sag has some important effects; changing bike geometry, increasing/decreasing stroke to bottoming (so increasing/decreasing total force to bottom), etc.

Bike on the side stand is sufficient as it will stretch the shock out so push against the kick stand to see if the shock will extend at all.

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thank you for the amazingly fast reply!

www.pedparts.co.uk/product/383/buzzetti-adjustable-c-spanner

@@CatalystReactionSBW Thanks Dave!

In reading about the bike online there is no text that shows the rear shock is adjustable. That being said, consult the owners manual to see if there is the option to change it. If there is it will most likely be a ramp adjuster like a Honda CBR600

@@CatalystReactionSBW im imean my only mono shock honda 150🙏🏍⛑

assassin stunter your weight, your spring usually oem you’re gonna find a spring that suits an average weight. On my s1000rr on the manual they say around 90kg (geared) is an average(for them) so the spring they’re not good if you’re 75kg even if you change all the settings.

There is no formula for the spring, but there is this rule of thumb: static sag should be 10-15mm with a cold shock, rider sag should be 20-25mm. Combined 30-40mm front and rear to start with a flat bike. If rider sag is good but there is no static sag, the spring is too soft. If static sag is bigger than rider sag, the spring is too hard.

@@CatalystReactionSBW What is static sag?

@@danejurus69 Dave Williams, editor, replying here. It's the amount the shock and forks compress under the bikes own weight, without the rider on it yet. In other words, how much the bike "sags" under its own weight. Here are some video links about it. davemosstuning.com/2-clicks-out-shock-static-sag/ davemosstuning.com/fasterclass-setting-fork-static-sag/ davemosstuning.com/fasterclass-shock-static-sag/

You just answered your own question, it does make spring harder and softer because it compresses, it also can increase ride height or add more resistance in height

@@ct9683 - but you are not compressing it, the swingarm is moving?

If the pre load is increased as the load increases the ride height stays the same. The bike is always at full height minus static sag and minus rider sag. If you don't have these you effectively have no suspension and a rock hard ride. If you go full pre load you may as well have a block of wood instead of a spring

Soak then with WD40 or other penetrant for several days then try again. If they do not move, remove the shock, remove the spring and then try to move the rings.

@@CatalystReactionSBW thanks dave will give that a go

That is why we have Remote Tuning to help you 1-1 via email or video. Please send me an email to dave@davemosstuning.com

Because a rook is supposed to resemble a castles battlements, hence the name here I guess.

If you are talking numbers or ramp adjuster, higher = more. That means forks and shocks get longer so the bike rises in seat height.

@@CatalystReactionSBW so if I put mine to position 1 the seat hight will be lower? Great :)

Static and rider sag is the why, How much is enough is based on rider weight and skill.

Steering stem spanner or adjustable C spanner. You can buy it at my amazon store: www.amazon.com/shop/davemosstuning?isVisitor=true

We all want to know why and no one will answer. Perhaps you might be the lucky one to get an answer!

I did as the dearership, they were confused by it to.

@@CatalystReactionSBW a non-biker attorney drafted that disclaimer...that's why!

Ease of use without damaging the rings over time. So $$ saved in the long term.

@@CatalystReactionSBW I see. Thanks for explaining.

Me bad fat fingers small keys old age "dayglo" headlight cover ...we all had one...only one..never buy a 2nd one.

I couldn't afford a CD175 at the time so I bought a C90 instead. No mitts, wax paper inside a Belstaff jacket with a Bieffe helmet. No thermos!

@@CatalystReactionSBW The old school Belstaff happy days in the kitchen melting tins of "wax" for the annual reproofing ..after a few hard years a good Belstaff can "stand" all by itself like a suit of armour and knocked backed from many a boozer..not like the modern over priced tat sell to hip dudes today ! If know any retro hip "ton" up uber kool with a "K" biker types show them You Tube RODE SAFELY 1955 FILM BY VICTOR HORSEMAN PART 1....a time when tyres with a "Y" was round and black Dunlop or Avon and Nobby Clark(e)'s still be found .. a good watch with a kipper breakfast.

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. This video just concentrates on one aspect of motorcycle suspension, the various types of shock preload adjusters. We don't talk about forks or hydraulics in this video.

www.maxiscoot.com/en/product/buzzetti-c-spanner-43660

@@CatalystReactionSBW thank you I did end up finding one similar tho

Measure sag for yourself and set sag to your needs. Measure sag again (3rd party required) and set sag for the rear first. Once correct, then measure fork sag and set preload. Observe fork and shock travel used on a test ride or in the fist 80kms/50 miles to see where you are.

Depends on the shape and the gaps between winds

That's all we have in our industry for tools. Can you design and produce something better to help everyone that needs to use a tool like this? If not, that's a lot of disgust to carry around every day until the situation is resolved.

There are many other videos on why to adjust preload, how it is adjusted and what the end results are. Those are under the 2 Clicks Out playlist. This example show what tools you need and how to move them. 80% of suspension travel is comfortable and safe based on assessment of fork and shock travel. Now you know that, you can adjust preload to your precise needs.

Dave Williams, editor, replying here. Nice catch! Language is a funny thing. One of my favorites is "incentivize" to make the noun "incentive" into a verb. But "ive" is a suffix used to turn verbs into nouns. To turn the noun "incentive" into a verb you drop the suffix. The verb is "incent". But language has changed so much in the last 60 years that auto spell check does not even recognize the word "incent".

Ben Zo you have to get it close, then later go back and make finer adjustments that the thread allows for. Guys with that much knowledge just can’t get it all out, it’s hard to translate a lifetime of learning to a few words.

Experts understand the high level theory through study. I seek to motivate riders to go and learn more.