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The Reason You Can't Hold Body Tension

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Movement for Climbers

Movement for Climbers

Күн бұрын

Пікірлер: 150
@EtaiDvora
@EtaiDvora 2 жыл бұрын
Cool way to explain it! One phrase I always liked from a coach I know is "Your core is every part of your body between your fingertips and your toes". Perhaps technically untrue, but it helps a lot to think about creating tension not just by tightening your abs, but thinking about tightening and positioning your whole body in certain specific ways to help yourself stay on the wall.
@Nuttyirishman85
@Nuttyirishman85 Жыл бұрын
To the chest was the best advice I ever heard bouldering.
@Motodidakt
@Motodidakt 2 жыл бұрын
How hard was it for this guy to pretend he couldn't hold body tension on those problems? He probably maintains his core tension while sleeping and does pull ups to get out of bed when he wakes up at 3am. Basically I'm jealous of the fitness level, haha.
@AmirNickname
@AmirNickname 2 жыл бұрын
On "mind your feet": I have a background in martial arts too and I've considered making a video to explain how the principles of a punch also apply to climbing movements. When I see beginners throw a punch, I can see them move their centre of gravity up as they throw the punch, thus they are no longer rooted and lose power. It's similar in climbing: even though you want to go up to the next hold, you'll want to stay rooted by staying low at the same time.
@aaronparry2636
@aaronparry2636 2 жыл бұрын
the principles of kicking are also very similar to the principles of tension with the exact same mind your feet/hold your roots outlook (not to mention the near fanatic focus on core).
@Cavery1984
@Cavery1984 2 жыл бұрын
I've been climbing a long time but the closed chain explanation of training was really excellent. I've been doing that extended traverses on a board intuitively for skill building since I've returned to climbing and was really pleased to see it depicted here. I will make the effort to think through my feet while looking at the hand, great way to put it!
@minnietammie
@minnietammie 2 жыл бұрын
Your explanations of climbing techniques are so easy to understand. One of my favorite educational climbing channels!
@fabio1212s
@fabio1212s 2 жыл бұрын
Great explanations in this video! It's so bizarre how in so many disciplines people think core strenght is a magical thing that will solve all their problems. Handbalancing might be the most annoying example. I guess it's just easier to say "tense you core" than to give a complete and comprehensive explanation like this one 🙌
@RyanDaMannn
@RyanDaMannn 2 жыл бұрын
Counter pressure is such an integral part of climbing. It’s awesome that he highlighted this first. It’s the difference between advancing as a climber and being stuck on your grade. Helps those 5.10 climbers become 5.11+ climbers
@sandybuttcheeks6091
@sandybuttcheeks6091 2 жыл бұрын
Found this channel a couple days ago, and have found all your videos super useful. While I have been climbing for a while, and have come across the techniques and methods used - I didnt have them formulated or put into words. So to get that from you has been great. Thankyou so much, keep doing what youre doing.
@philyskes3727
@philyskes3727 2 жыл бұрын
You make the most in depth short videos, that are so insightful.
@RossPotts
@RossPotts 2 жыл бұрын
Man, can LITERALLY recall each of thos problems from previous sessions. I think I know what to do now.
@hansmoleman7280
@hansmoleman7280 Жыл бұрын
4:06 Mind your feet. 5:52 closed chain exercises such as extended traverse on a 45 and inverted extended plank
@joco179
@joco179 2 жыл бұрын
Crazy to see one of my favorite channels climbing at my home gym. Amazing content I'm definitely going to incorporate these tips excersizes into my training.
@UCZx48kBoTg9O
@UCZx48kBoTg9O 2 жыл бұрын
Which gym is this?
@lucashunter9904
@lucashunter9904 2 жыл бұрын
@@UCZx48kBoTg9OMomentum Millcreek in SLC
@xitaris5981
@xitaris5981 Жыл бұрын
@@lucashunter9904 Oh Dang that's super close to me! I'm going to start trying some gyms out in SLC in the next few weeks
@RielleOlivo
@RielleOlivo 2 жыл бұрын
I learned more in those last 7 min than in the past months ; thank you!
@tomlloyd2603
@tomlloyd2603 3 ай бұрын
throughout this whole video I was having realisations of "I make that exact mistake" which I would not have realised without it. Thank you so much.
@GuidoSausage
@GuidoSausage 2 жыл бұрын
Yes, the zen climber is back. Keep up the good work my friend! 👍
@paulgaras2606
@paulgaras2606 2 жыл бұрын
Im glad I watched this because it confirms that my personal trainer is on the right track (though she knows nothing about climbing) I took two weeks to work on what she called core movement patterns (lots of different flavors of squats, dead lifts and push-ups and chin ups) and came back to climbing. Before: flash v2, send v3, struggle v4. Now flash v3 and some v4, working on a v5 send.
@functionallyyou1273
@functionallyyou1273 2 жыл бұрын
This is one of my favorite topics in climbing, amazing job covering it!!
@matejnovosad9152
@matejnovosad9152 25 күн бұрын
The feet traverse exercise looks really cool, I am going to try it for sure
@TrebleWing
@TrebleWing Жыл бұрын
I really enjoy your teaching style. Thank you for putting these together. They really help a lot.
@mitchellhintzsche993
@mitchellhintzsche993 2 жыл бұрын
This is probably my favorite video on your channel so far! I couldn't agree more with every point you make.
@sighcai
@sighcai 2 жыл бұрын
Oh is that Momentum Millcreek? I was telling my husband I thought I saw Movement from Climbers dude at the gym but we knew you weren't based in Utah so we dropped the thought lol Anyway, body tension is something I really need to work on, especially when doing cave/very overhung climbs. As a short person, I find it's incredibly important to build core strength to keep tension in my body so I can keep my hips close to the wall to be able to reach farther. I will definitely try the extended traversing feet exercise! It's hard to not cut feet with my height (5'0") on overhang, so I'm hoping this exercise will help me improve that particular weak point. As always, thank you for your valuable content! 10/10 one of my favorite climbing KZfaq channels!
@bdotes
@bdotes 2 жыл бұрын
I saw him at Millcreek about a month or so ago and also wasn’t sure if it was actually him 😂
@movementforclimbers
@movementforclimbers 2 жыл бұрын
Yup, I've moved to Utah and Momentum Millcreek is now my home gym :-) For sure practice Extended Traversing Feet to get your body used to engaging toe pressure. When you climb overhang, opt for keeping your body slightly more on the scrunched side (feet closer to hands) than the extended side (feet and hands far away), and apply that toe pressure you've been drilling and your feet will stay on! See you at the gym!
@elenasu7369
@elenasu7369 2 жыл бұрын
I like the explanation of the open chain exercises and close chain exercises! It makes sense and I'll try more close chain exercises.
@bewarebear22
@bewarebear22 2 жыл бұрын
Woah, wait a second... You're at my gym! Sweet man! I did the V7 that's the extension of the V8 he's on in the beginning, couldn't squeeze hard enough on the 8. ;)
@JesusRobledo23
@JesusRobledo23 2 жыл бұрын
Glad to see new videos out, and I hope you liked the problems set at Momentum.
@joshwilliams8863
@joshwilliams8863 Жыл бұрын
As a physicist that just started bouldering, this was a fantastic video! It was really easy to understand, and the graphics really helped.
@sushikeeper4125
@sushikeeper4125 2 жыл бұрын
You should do a warming up video. I think it’s something important that many climbers don’t always do.
@dalmirogranas9990
@dalmirogranas9990 Жыл бұрын
Seriously this one of the best climbing channels out there
@UzumakiBarz
@UzumakiBarz 2 жыл бұрын
Its been a while since a climbing video has learned me something new. Thanks
@RealWorldClimbing
@RealWorldClimbing 2 жыл бұрын
Traversing feet drill looks like a winner to me! Using it! Thanks!
@johnshipley1389
@johnshipley1389 Жыл бұрын
Mate you make the best videos! I watch loads of KZfaq but probably only absorb 10% of the information but I seem to absorb much more information the way you put it out and I appreciate you dude , thank you.
@danieljaramillo1519
@danieljaramillo1519 Жыл бұрын
I really needed this, thank you! I have felt plateaued in my climbing recently and especially with the kilter & tension boards. I will work on this and watch this as I continue to progress!
@jackman00110101
@jackman00110101 Жыл бұрын
Best advice I’ve gotten in a while
@wrongbeta
@wrongbeta 2 жыл бұрын
Fave climbing channel. Thanks for the content man.
@jazzysmazzy3571
@jazzysmazzy3571 2 жыл бұрын
I was so excited to see you had posted again!! Your videos are incredible! This makes so much sense thank you! On overhang I have a habit of putting pressure in my toes, and didn't realize that was a main reason behind my body tension. Friends will ask but how do you stay on the wall and I'm like I don't know, but now I do! Such an awesome video, thank you!
@FancySurgeon
@FancySurgeon 2 жыл бұрын
Loving these videos, just started climbing recently and these are my go to chill and educational videos.
@basedjustice
@basedjustice Жыл бұрын
*Your world vs The rest of the world* i needed that, thank you so much.
@michaels8902
@michaels8902 2 жыл бұрын
My favorite video yet from your channel! Really well done.
@topaz_climber
@topaz_climber 2 жыл бұрын
Mind your feet. I love it. 100% gonna try thinking foot position while seeing hand move!
@markfallu2389
@markfallu2389 Жыл бұрын
This was such a mindful way of explaining - thanks!
@Aris-Darling
@Aris-Darling 9 ай бұрын
Love this! Beautifully explained and executed. Thank you 😊
@user-hr3mi2sp7c
@user-hr3mi2sp7c 2 жыл бұрын
Really great explanation 👍 your videos are succinct and with great technical content.
@tumic5179
@tumic5179 2 жыл бұрын
I have been climbing for 6 and i am learning so much from this video, thank you
@maldjia
@maldjia 2 жыл бұрын
Quite insightful and well presented. Thanks!
@staywilddigitalmarketing2647
@staywilddigitalmarketing2647 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks for sharing. I really enjoy the in-depth explanation of movement, tension, and the 90 degree explanation.
@a.malaspina6702
@a.malaspina6702 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you. Nice one.
@cronaut5429
@cronaut5429 2 жыл бұрын
I haven't watched yet, but this is the topic I really wanted to explore. Thank you! Already love the outline.
@johntatman9168
@johntatman9168 2 жыл бұрын
This makes complete sense and your explanation is excellent.
@bupkissbananaband3237
@bupkissbananaband3237 Жыл бұрын
The video is about tension, but it is so relaxing
@siankopada7401
@siankopada7401 Жыл бұрын
Some great things to think about, thanks!!
@micahart2980
@micahart2980 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video! You have helped me improve my technique so much
@JohnSmith-ld2mc
@JohnSmith-ld2mc Жыл бұрын
One warning about closed chain exercises. If you have a weakness along that chain, you will strengthen those positions within the movement, but it will be most likely through compensation of other muscles and long term it potentially cause injuries.
@paulmorin2582
@paulmorin2582 2 жыл бұрын
Great content. Your explanations really resonate with me.
@alvaroc6326
@alvaroc6326 2 жыл бұрын
Really nice. I found myself that working mobility for the psoas and gluets is useful also the T Y I in the rings for tension and compression.
@edwardlane1255
@edwardlane1255 2 жыл бұрын
that was really a good explanation, I've only tried a climbing wall a few times (10+ years ago) but explains some of my issues - not pulling at 90 from the hold - thanks
@phillipjohn4800
@phillipjohn4800 2 жыл бұрын
Glad to see you're back!
@TyranosaurusBrett
@TyranosaurusBrett Жыл бұрын
4:12 is, in my opinion, one of the biggest game changes. Once I started remembering I have a whole body outside of the hold I am going for everything changed and previous difficult "strong" moves became a lot easier
@veresdenialex
@veresdenialex Жыл бұрын
This is really good info, thanks!
@Djdavidnyan
@Djdavidnyan Жыл бұрын
Really helpful video, thanks! I’ll start being more aware of this!!
@tpa3437
@tpa3437 2 жыл бұрын
The wall exercise reminded of down climbing, you often put your feet as low as you can while maintaining tension. So I guess maybe down climbing helps with the core?
@gezzapk
@gezzapk 2 жыл бұрын
Yeah it's pretty much like a bent leg lift but in reverse since your arms are mainly being used to hold yourself into to the wall.
@danielshort9911
@danielshort9911 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you, your channel is gold.
@cassiedes
@cassiedes Жыл бұрын
Very informative video. Thank you!
@AEClimbingTV
@AEClimbingTV 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing content.. all this time I thought body tension was reliant on your ab strength. Thanks for explaining closed chain exercises. great stuff!
@nikkitangtiphongkul1297
@nikkitangtiphongkul1297 Жыл бұрын
I love the video, thank you for sharing and put your time into this. 👍👏you rock!
@vidhoard
@vidhoard 5 ай бұрын
This is brilliant advice thank you!
@alvarobriceno4500
@alvarobriceno4500 10 ай бұрын
this was awesome thank you!
@codyheiner3636
@codyheiner3636 2 жыл бұрын
Open chain vs closed chain is important, but the bigger point here is posterior chain rather than anterior core. (You do mention this later on ofc)
@shaunoleary8740
@shaunoleary8740 2 жыл бұрын
This was very helpful! Thank you!
@Mimosalover69
@Mimosalover69 2 жыл бұрын
Nice vid even for a beginner level climber, very to-the-point!
@FrancescoGasparin
@FrancescoGasparin 2 жыл бұрын
Always the best tips and explanations ! thank you !!
@languagefreeassangeteacher5338
@languagefreeassangeteacher5338 Жыл бұрын
Interesting, thank you!
@jorgealexandremoreira1792
@jorgealexandremoreira1792 2 жыл бұрын
Thanks a lot. Great video.
@urbandog_fit
@urbandog_fit Жыл бұрын
great explain! very helpful!! thank you !!!
@austinduer471
@austinduer471 Жыл бұрын
thank you, you're amazing
@Rkboards
@Rkboards 2 жыл бұрын
Enjoyed seeing how stoked you were on the leg press 🤣
@tinachang2657
@tinachang2657 2 жыл бұрын
This is so helpful. Thank you!
@meangene1980
@meangene1980 2 жыл бұрын
Deadlifts and squats are great for training your core, as they require stability to produce the power needed to complete the movements. But, I'm not a climbing expert, so perhaps there are better methods. However, one thing is for sure: crunches are a waste of time.
@fabio1212s
@fabio1212s 2 жыл бұрын
New video by movement for climbers! YEEEEES
@JoBianco
@JoBianco Жыл бұрын
You have the best videos
@tomaskazokas8123
@tomaskazokas8123 Жыл бұрын
great video, thanks!
@elasticharmony
@elasticharmony Жыл бұрын
Great lesson 👌
@acier1056
@acier1056 Жыл бұрын
Awesome vid dude thank you
@davidryal
@davidryal 2 жыл бұрын
tfw when you start bouldering and go to youtube for tips, and the expert giving tips on youtube is doing so from the gym in your town. pipeworks ftw!
@DivyanshKhanna
@DivyanshKhanna 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for your videos!
@ryanj9571
@ryanj9571 2 жыл бұрын
What are your thoughts on good anterior chain training drills/exercises?
@tonimartin681
@tonimartin681 2 жыл бұрын
Cograts for that amazing explanation!!! 👏👏🙌🙌🙌
@ChaoticRain1
@ChaoticRain1 2 жыл бұрын
wish you showed us the end of that yellow boulder problem though!
@msdubs007
@msdubs007 2 жыл бұрын
Maybe "you" can't hold tension. My shoulders and neck have an incredible proclivity to hold tension.
@oliverwilliams9507
@oliverwilliams9507 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing video, thank you!
@morgancaors180
@morgancaors180 2 жыл бұрын
Excellent video thank you so much ! I started climbing 2 month ago, and your videos are helping me A LOT, it's incredible. You're giving really good tools that helps understanding our body, and how this body is evolving ( and why i'm falling ahah) on the wall. I was wondering about body tension, and how i could improve it. I thought i needed better shoulders and core to block(which is maybe not totally wrong ahah), but finally the problem could must probably be my feets, as often in climbing ! Thank you so much, i'm very excited to apply it in my next session
@smockytubers1188
@smockytubers1188 2 жыл бұрын
Excellent stuff mate
@alexnunez4019
@alexnunez4019 2 жыл бұрын
I appreciate your videos!
@perttumannisto2854
@perttumannisto2854 2 жыл бұрын
Amazing! Very inspirational and educational. :)
@Johnny_Cash_Flow
@Johnny_Cash_Flow 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you.
@pert4361
@pert4361 2 жыл бұрын
Thank you
@Matchamono
@Matchamono Жыл бұрын
8:03 no deadlift where I am. are kb swings a decent replacement to work posterior chain?
@killyourself2times
@killyourself2times 2 жыл бұрын
As always, cool high quality content 👌
@lukaszl9542
@lukaszl9542 2 жыл бұрын
honestly, maybe i didnt search good enough, but i think its the first time some1 explains why people do all those flags and counterpressure moves. not once did i see why its done, apart from here and now
@ewanmok
@ewanmok 2 жыл бұрын
This may be random, but I love your green pants! Where did you buy them? I'm very prone to leg injury so I'm looking at pants for bouldering :(
@adriandelacruz3390
@adriandelacruz3390 2 жыл бұрын
love it man! I didn't know you were from utah!
@ferncat1397
@ferncat1397 2 жыл бұрын
More than once I've found my foot slip off while I try to deadpoint something, especially while traversing. I suspect keeping pressure through my feet will fix the issue 🤯
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