You're totally correct about the boards lack of VTX power switch.

Just installed this in a nano goblin, seems to be pretty great for that purpose. I'm sure people have figured it out but it's worth noting that the cable with the connector not installed is for the GPS, not the HD vtx, they specifically left the connector off so that you can install the wires in the order needed for whatever gps you are using. (in my case an hglrc m100 with compass, which works flawlessly). The lack of a vtx power switch is a bummer, especially since I am using digital, but I have been just using a usb power source ( portable phone charger) plugged into the board, without the flight batt connected, to let the gps get locked without powering the vtx and risking overheating. Then plug in the flight batt and disconnect the external ups power to keep the board powered, or vise versa, the gps will almost instantly lock again if the board is only powered of for a second...and off you go. So far have had no issues. If that is a no-no for some reason I'd love to hear why, as I am by no means an expert.

Very good job. A review like I like it.👍👍👍

A possible reason why some people don't like soldering: There are lots of Chinese soldering tips on the market that seem to fit around a 3.8 mm heating core, but they are a tiny bit too roomy inside, so they fail to pick up heat reliably. They will reluctantly melt solder, but never get hot enough to work well. That simple fact hampered my efforts for years until I discovered the problem. If some of you out there you struggle, check to see if there's too much play in the inner diameter of your tips.

Learning so much about FPV in addition to the X20S. Glad to be a patreon of your superb channel.

For those miniature connectors, I just bought some boxes of pre-crimped silicon covered wires with connectors of different sizes from Amazon. That's so useful to have in this hobby.

Hi Darren, a lot of your videos have helped me get my head around what flight controllers can do (and iNav). Up until now I have just used standard Hobbyeagle V3 type gyros in fixed wing. I fancy converting a plane to FC and iNav. One thing I haven't got clear is the difference between what iNav & FC can do for stability vs a old school gyro (esp for Acro/normal stability mode). With the Hobbyeagle gyros you can adjust the gain on the fly, from a pot or switch on the Tx, so the amount of stability input can be adjusted depending on wind conditions. I don't see a similar feature in iNav.... maybe it's clever enough not to need it?

I've fitted one to my ZOHD Drift. It's a tight fit. I used the vertical pins to connect receiver, esc and servo's to the FC. I designed and printed a GPS cover extender of 10mm tall. This so I could carve out space in the EPP gps cover to allow the servo wires some room to bend downwards to the lower room that houses the ZOHD esc and my receiver. The FC is of great quality and, as always with SpeedyBee FC gear all connectors and wire looms come packed in the box as well.

Thanks Darren, excellent, informative review. Many thanks for your hard work and dedication.

Received 2 yesterday in the mail. Looking forward to getting one setup. Thanks for in-depth review.

Thanks, that was a very detailed and useful review 👍 . I will buy one locally, it's in stock. Speedybee mentions a min voltage of 7V, this is on 2S a 3.5V per cell. For 2S li-ions something to keep an eye on. A VTX power switch would be nice indeed. In the meantime I use in my builds a computer 2.54mm Jumper connection in the + lead of the digital VTX. And the lack of a 9V BEC is not a deal-breaker in most configurations. It seems a good small FC .

Thanks Darrin! I pre-ordered one last week and it has already shipped

A nice comprehensive overview. More features than I was expecting for the size. Thanks Darren. This FC definitely on my order list. Something to check: if the Mode (tab) switching option for duel-analog cameras is supported in INAV for the Mini-F405? Been hoping that digital camera would offer a dual camera switch option to share a VTX. Seems most assume only a single camera on a quad, overlooking planes where having a 2nd Earth pointing, rear-facing, or tail-mounted view are more common options. With HD video, so many fun possibilities for dual perspectives exist.

I fitted one of these to my Swordfish last week, having the PDB on top worked out really well, I'll be getting more of these 😀 Shame about the lack of VTX switched output😒

Great review Darren - thanks for making

I'd like to see switchable power on more FCs, even bake it in to the 9v VTX power pin. The HD systems can get pretty warm waiting for a cold GPS to fix.

I'd love to see the shield or PDB turned into an esc. It would make a great integrated wing stack.

Hrhr, ordered one 5mins before your Video came out 🤘

Great review Darren! I just ordered two for the coming season after your video. I understand your comment about the VTX switch but isn't that very easy to do by adding a mosfet to one of the servo pins to switch the VTX on and off?

Darren, have you thought of designing your own board?

Hi Darren, I lost the MSP connection / INAV 7 on my Matek F405 TE. How do I get it back? Thanks for a good tip. Regards Didi

It's unfortunate they chose uart 3 for GPS, because having something 4v5 powered on uart 3 can interfere with flashing and potentially boot. Would have been better to put GPS on uart 2, 4, or 6.

What voltage is the dji pad? Vbat or regulated? If vbat, are any additional considerations necessary?

is it possible to use the servo output with pin header for example S8 or S9 for LED? that would be easier than having to use the dedicated LED solder pad

It’s sad that they do not support 12 volts like the big brother Poor old luddites like me that use 1.3 ghz high power transmitters for long range FPV MUST have 12 volts !! Not sure I would like to try the “Use battery jumper” as 16.8 volts would blow the 1.3 unit I reckon Love the big brother but not this mini unit

Does the board have to be powered by a battery for the receiver tabs in INAV work? The receiver is bound but I get no response in the configurator. I tried to use UART 1 and it keeps deferring back to UART 2 after reboot. I can’t figure out what’s going on.

Don't buy this FC it's crap, I had rx uart problems, servo outputs went bad after five minutes on the bench while testing servos. I moved the servo output to S6 from S4 and got the servo working again but then the motor output on S2 went bad. Believe me, I pulled the servos and ESC all working fine with a servo tester. I even swapped the ESCs on the header pins S1 & S2 the problem just moved from not running the right motor to the left motor.