Wow, this is the kind of vehicle inspection that would be worth paying for.

I somewhat recently bought a one owner ‘07 Outback, manual transmission, with only 69k miles for $6k. Due to age I had the timing belt replaced, Spark plugs were worn so those were changed, and then there was an oil leak which was the head gaskets, so those were done as well. Total was just over $2800 in parts and labor having the work done at a Subaru dealership. But now I have a nice vehicle that will last me a very long time. It has enough technology to make it very comfortable, but not any excess that could break/make the car more expensive to repair). It is my first time ever owning a Subaru and I absolutely love the car! With the price of new vehicles it can make a lot of sense to put a 2-5 thousand into an older car and make it good as new :)

Aren't they great on my third engine and I couldn't be happier so busy fixing these things I don't have time to contemplate suicide anymore.

This is a perfect showcase for a pre purchase inspection

As an intermediate diy mechanic (everything but engines) working on my 2011. This is the best possible format to learn from in troubleshooting, which i find is the hardest part.

I'm going to drive my Outback to 300,000 miles before I get rid of it, thanks to channels like yours. Halfway there.

You just put real value on your videos. With all the knowledge you've shared, I've saved thousands doing repairs myself. Keep up the good work!!! Much thanks!

my experience with 07 was not pleasant! it was not the car though, i discovered eventually it was the previous owner who messed it up where nothing was how it was supposed to be, but it still ran! it was an amazing car. Unfortunately, after I fixed it, I gave it to my son who turned around and sold it! for good money too! HE GOT A HONDA!!!!!!!!it felt like a stab in the heart! !!!! It will not even overheat!!!! what kind of car is that?!

I mean at the end of all this work plus a really good cleanup and a detail + paint correction they will be in less than 10k have a completely overhauled car in great shape and if they commit to the car and keep it for another 10 years/ 100.000 miles or so its worth it.

Having just picked up a 2007 outback basic with 215k miles this is perfect timing. I got lucky with the previous owner keeping all their repair records, including head gasket work, new catalytic converts, rebuilt front suspension and more. Also went for a manual car, which took a while to find out here in California. Mostly I have wear parts like hoses and bushings to deal with at this point, as well as basic maintenance like spark plugs.

This is why people buy new cars, cut your losses and get rid of the headache.

If it were mine, or belonged to a friend who came to me for advice... I'd definitely do the head gaskets and related engine work. As well as replace the ATF and the front LCA bushings. Probably ensure the ball joints, axles, and front sway bar links are in good shape. But leave the entire rear end alone unless the customer is complaining about suspension noises or clunks. Likewise I'd leave the struts alone unless a test drive showed they were blown or there was a customer complaint of bouncy/rough ride. As you noted, it's a 2007 Subaru with 200k+ miles. Someone who's spending $2500 on a car isn't looking for a nice ride, they're looking for cheap but reliable transportation.

The head gasket was probably replaced at a Subaru dealer, they will use the same kind of gasket instead of upgrading. THEY got a friend of mine like that and he had to have the job done again at 202000 mi.

Comes up to a big bill if customer decides to do everything. Beyond head gasket work I feel like some of the issues could be prioritized or triaged by need/safety impact/budget. Were the struts actually leaking or busted, for example? Of course it probably doesn’t make financial sense to replace eevvverything. Depends on customers budget. You could fix the main safety/reliability issues and leave the rest alone and still have a dependable mode of transportation

Stereo is an easy fix. The problem is there is no ground wire on the display panel, just 3 flex tabs that ground to the frame when pressed in. Easy test is to press between the 3 and 4 buttons and if it works then it’s the ground. One of the ground springs is right behind that. Just clean the corrosion off them and good to go.

Being into a car like that for $8k does sting, but the dynamics of the new and used market (shortages, price jumps, etc.) have made some cars worth fixing now when they didn't used to be. I had to think about similar stuff when I replaced the engine on my 2009 Outback Limited earlier this year.

Great video, really liked the cost breakdown at the end. Thx

Thank you for another great video. Cost breakdown was very useful. Your explanations are superb. Thanks.

Thanks very much. I picked up a 03 Baja last month and you've given me a lot to look at and fret over. The pricing is quite helpful as well.

Thanks for the video slowly getting mine back together waiting on tie rod ends.

Now I just hope that the customer will agree with your breakdown, as this would be perfect source of information for my Outback 👍 well apart of AT.

Loved the video, have an 07 with 190k and have kept up on maintenance fairly well, my son drives it now and probably be tackling the head gasket soon(no leakage yet) but just did the brakes(flushed the fluid too) , the ATF drain and fill, have a replacement power steering pump on order, and runs like a champ!! Thanks for all the tips and look fors to be aware of!! Keep up the videos!! 👍🙏😄

Great videos! You make we want to get another Outback!

I may have commented on this before regarding the P0420 code on my '10 Outback at 100k miles. Popped up from nowhere and I started a search on reasons for bad cat efficiency. I had been experiencing unusual oil usage recent to getting the code and began looking for a reason for both issues showing up. I found the PCV valve had failed wide open and was drawing oil mist continuously into the intake during vehicle operation. I pulled both the pre- and after-cat O2 sensors and found them coated with oil coking and burned oil residue. I replaced the PCV with an OEM valve, replaced both O2 sensors with Denso OEM units, ran Cataclean through the fuel system twice. I'm 4,000 miles on since replacing these items with no P0420 code (it was coming on between 60 miles and 140 miles of driving previously after reset of the code). An additional benefit was vastly improved driveability - better throttle tip-in, smoother acceleration from a clean pre-cat sensor giving better fuel trim signals and a bit better fuel mileage as well as zero excessive oil consumption. Just food for thought - my belief is that catalytic convertors usually fail for two main reasons: Mechanical damage from overheating/broken cell structure and from the surface of the catalyst element being coated with foreign materials such as tetraethyl lead, non sensor-safe sealants, excessive non/partially-combusted oil, etc. I was "rolling the dice" on this a bit but figured that I'd replace both O2 sensors anyway if I had to replace the cat and it appears that my bet was correct and saved myself some money. Also, many thanks to Mr. Subaru - I just replaced my clutch with an Excedy as you recommended and a new flywheel and it is GREAT!

Picked up a 2010 a few earlier this spring and although the mileage was much much lower, there are some things that you've mentioned here I should probably take a look at.

Hi from Spain!

i almost bought one recently, cheers for this vid man, much appreciated

These newer Outback's look way better and they are slightly more fuel-efficient than the older ones.

What an oil mess! Thanks so much for the education on our cars...love this kind of video to educate myself. I come from the 60's and drove my '67 Mustang GTA as a daily driver for many years before passing on the car to my son. I did al kinds of work on the Mustang and many used cars after until I bought my first new car, 2018 OB 3.6 touring. I have to reeducate myself with these new engines and the CVT transmissions. We still own a 1990 Ford 350 4WD...good back up work truck that never quits!

Awesome video as always and very informative

In Australia, this repair would be close to $8,000. Everything for this car is super expensive, most notably the Cat Converter. Wouldn't be worth repairing over here. Everything just so bloody expensive !!

Excellent video and super competent review of the car. I wish you lived nearby! Ironically I have the same car as this only now with 240,000 miles and still on the original timing belt. Has some minor head gasket leakage but nothing major. Chassis rust (NH car) is the sad part!

It’s what makes a Subaru a Subaru. I love them just did this on my 98 2.2 220k miles on the factory head gasket. Machined heads cleaned the valves up with stem seals. Runs good as new.

I would really enjoy and info or tips on keeping the EJ22 happy and alive. Not many left I know but I feel they are a superior engine and worth a dive in.

I’ve seen some of those engine codes when the engine ground straps corrode and fall off. I also would deviate from your strong OEM preference on some of the parts to bring the cost down.

Just finished reassembling the EJ25 in my MY07 OBXT. Waiting for a map to account for the larger injectors (other upgrades) and will be starting it soon! Super excited!

I keep seeing mention of sticky dashes. I've owned 3x Legacy/Outbacks in this generation and none of them had this issue? My stored outdoors '05 Outback has 320k KM on it and it's fine. The arm rests are crinkling a little bit but no where near as bad as shown here. My parked under cover 220k km '06 LGT's arm rests and dash are almost perfect.

I wish I live near South Carolina to have my 2011 Tribeca inspected by Mr. Subaru!

Thank you. I that's s a lot of work and parts for $5,500.

thanks for this type of video.

Really important what you said about replacing the timing belt tensioner, and not just the belt. Made that mistake years ago, replaced just the belt, pulley went out six months later. Mechanic claimed he didn’t know that you’re supposed to replace the water pump and tensioner pulley with the belt, despite all the chat rooms and Subaru saying that you should.

Damn my 17 outback already has 147k miles! I'm about to have to do CV Axles and wheel hubs on the front.

I bought a carpet cover for the dash for mine that i just bought,was in mint condition apart from that and it really tidied up the inside.

Hi thanks for your videos that helps diyers immensely. I was curious about where you were able to get a 700 dollar cat. I have the 420 on my 07 OB @208k

My '06 is at 220k ...I've got a check engine light and am un need of a new DS front axel... These videos are fantastic considering how difficult it is for me to find a knowledgeable mechanic who I can "trust."I refuse to get rid of my Outback .I recently cut ties with a local so-called subaru specialist due to mistrust issues,thousands in repairs over the last 5 years.The dealerships are out of the question...

Great Video!!!

I have a 2005 Subaru Forrester she has 306243

Cool, thanks for an informative video curious, if we (I) could send a short similar video of my OB, same areas, how much $ to do a diagnosis? Obviously the video needs to be short, edited or series of stills, to min your time thanks

I just did ball joints and lower control arm rear bushings today on my 02 outback.

Thanks for this and all the other highly informative videos. I am the original owner of a 2005 Outback 2.5i with 218,000 miles on original head gaskets. They have been leaking oil externally for years, now just enough to where the oil smell from hitting exhaust is getting pretty bad and I’m thinking of pulling trigger on replacement as I’d like to continue using car, especially as a winter beater. Another issue it has is a lack of heat coming from passenger side air outlets. I reverse flushed heater core with no improvement (driver side is plenty hot). I’m aware of the air door actuator problems on dual zone climate control equipped cars of this generation, but mine has single zone dials. Has anyone had this issue with the single zone equipped Outback/Legacy and can offer suggestions before I tear into the dash? Thanks.

Hey there! Great videos!! Quick question, I'm looking at a 2017 Forester 2.5i Premium manual transmission with 190k miles on it, how reliable do you think it'll be? (Asking price 10k USD)

Depot brand headlights eh? I need to beautify the headlights of my lovely 07 Impreza here in Canada, they look just like OEM! I thought I could only get weird looking aftermarket headlights... (McGuiars Plastx to the rescue...)

If I was going to fix that car, I would replace the sticky dash pad as well! (and the center console pad)

Hello Mr subaru I always watch your videos you're probably the best subaru dude on here and I was wondering if you know what would cause the gas nozzle to click out everytime at the pump when trying to fill up, I have an evap code similar to the one in the video and my 08 outback has 222,000 miles

Honestly what your customer would pay to have that car done right plus what they paid for it to begin with is only a little more than what some of this generation of outback are selling for on the used market here in the west with well over 100k miles and likely a lot of the same problems so even if it costs 8 grand total they are getting a car that will last a while for that investment. I see a lot of these at the timing belt/head gasket replacement mileage going for 6-8000 dollars out here and it's obvious why they are being sold.

I enjoy your channel. How do I have you inspect my 18 Impreza? Where in the south are you? Thanks

Any mm Hey Mr. Subaru, and thoughts on 2014 2.5i legacy sport with 91k miles? I’m buying in a few days. It will be my first Subaru but never had a cvt and boxer motor before so I’m nervous!

Where are you located I have a 03 wrx that needs work. Like 3 grand of work

He said he's not a rocket scientist but he is at what he does!

Lmao my 07 was badass i use to ragg the piss out that engine and send her thru god knows what 😂😭 always stayed consistent tho and ran great. I really do miss it

On a 2011 3.6R, what should a front LCA replacement (both sides) cost? Bushings on mine are shot.

My 2005 Subaru Outback 2.5i is stumbling at initial acceleration. What do you think might be causing this? I would appreciate your input, I have run BG 44K, and BG Engine performance restorer through her, and she seemed to be running better for a while but now I have this hesitation issue. Thank you for your time, I really appreciate it!

Do you have a vid on the Fan knob not turning on the fan/ac. There used to be some tension on the knob, but not anymore. 2001 Outback

Okay I feel like I need to ask this. Just put a deposit on a 2023 Outback - where should my confidence meter hit? I had a 2012 Outback, traded it in rather than purchase a $9k transmission. I have mostly owned Hondas but the CRV is uncomfortable and the Pilot seems to have it's own issues these days. Lots to love about the Outback, but I appreciate care-free driving more. Are the 2023's care-free driving for a good long while or is there a fairly good chance I'll be frustrated? Would love a professional opinion, here. Thanks

mr subaru is it normal for a valve body to fail early after replacement like 1k miles later or one month?

Don't forget to add new tires also Robert @ 600 bucks or so!

Any advice on a scan tool that will program the immobilizer when I replace the gauge cluster on a 2012 outback 3.6r? The rpm gauge makes weird clicking noises and doesn’t read correct rpm all the time, still drivable, but annoying. I thought it was rodents at first.

I got the 420 code sometimes it goes off by itself for a week. What is odd sometime mine goes beeping while driving then it goes off no clue why it just beeps occassionally? Any thoughts?

How are you doing? I have a 2005 Outback EJ25 that I want to go through before I put it into a 1969 VW bus. Where are you located? Who might you recommend in Northern California area?

Well I said $5,000.00 so I was off a little. Thanks for the information it helps me. 👍

We in Europe can by 2007 outback four around 3000 USD in good condition so my guess is scrapyard this one and get new one for 3K and save the headache:)

Dude knows his job.

Mine is same year with 118k.. P0420 code on so far.. no oil leak yet.

There’s one I’m scouting right now 261k miles for 800 1 previous owner very minimal issues.

this week i bought a Subi 07 2.5 automatic

I hope you read this question, I have my outback 2007 when I got 4000 rpm the car lost power like if you turn it off the engine, it takes fractions of seconds once goes less than 4000 rpm the car keeps moving, Please help with a hint

Just fix the gaskets and reseal the transmission harness it’s gonna run for a few years before the rest of issues become a pain in the butt.

Ugh I can't wait to diagnose my Dad's 2005 Forester... Jeez

When you do a timing belt service , do you replace the expensive tensioner pulley? Edit, you answered my question! Thanks!

@mrsubaru1387 iv got a head scratcher for you, my partners car is acting up with its cooling system. If you cruise round its lovely and hot and temp sticks at 90 like it's supposed to however if you accelerate hard while travelling above 50mph the temp gauge has a fit and the heater then churns out cold air and refuses to get warm again. It's not losing any coolent but Iv done numerous leak tests anyway and found nothing, iv changed the relevant sensors & thermostat twice & all the hoses and it still continues to do it. Iv done a couple of leak down tests and the head gaskets fine, after 10k miles the last test all read the same as the first. All the wiring has been gone through and all checks out, iv even swapped the ecu with the exact model and it still does it.... its driving me crazy at this point especially coming up to winter, any advice for something I may have missed will be appreciated!!!!

At least being a southern car, the car itself is in good shape. I mean.. tbh having a solid car brought back to snuff for 8k doesn't sound like the worst thing in the world. In the North (I'm from MI) mileage means a lot more due to the chassis corrosion than it does for a southern car, I think

Damn I thought my 2002 Liberty RX was in bad condition when I bought it 😂 mine is a dream compared to this

I have a 2023 crosstrek 200 mile in the morning it take to times to start it is that normal

I have a 2008 impreza 2.5i woth 293k miles. Jave a jdm engine in the mail. Never getting rid of this thing until the minnesota roads melt it away to the poont i can fred flinstone my way to work

Any good sources on reman engines?

Could you prioritize the repairs and keep the estimate under the value of the car? I figure the value of the car is less than 3K. so just do the ball joints & front pads and keep it filled up with generic oil and water? They ALL drip, it's OK. The Evap wire fix for the Ck Engine light is the kind of costs this car can support. Get some new tires when they go on sale. I know you want to restore it but spending $5.8k on a 15-year-old $3k car will result in a $3.4k car, unless you just love it because its' been in the family for 15 years.

is there any way to fix the sticky dash

5:17 that lid looks like a certain male... sack... (trying to keep it semi-clean!)😂😂

so what did customer decide to do with the car? Did he fix it?

@ 13:49 Got a Snap On scanner huh.

That's a nice lookin car and 8 grand.. What you gonna by for 8 grand that doesn't need any work? This will be a solid, reliable and paid for car after the work! If you buy and 8000.00 car anywhere, you'll have issues and costs after the purchase and what will that be? The nice thing about these years of Subaru are that the owner can do A LOT of repairs themselves and save tons of money! Me personally, I would get the engine work and cat done by a professional, then I would work on the things I can do at home and job out the stuff I can't do as funds become available!

oh this is going to be good )

Have a 22 forester, when I let off the gas and coast or after breaking and I put foot on the gas my car boings, or bumps. Any idea what it is?

205K and still runs great

Greetings. I have a 2006 outback 3.0 and the throttle body connector broke and the cables were out of order and I can't find the correct order if someone could post an image. Thanks

"I'm no rocket surgeon"

Looks like a good self lubricating chassis to prevent rust me

So for 8k this will be a good to go modernish Subaru Outback that's been thoroughly gone through by a very reputable Subaru mechanic. My question is can 8k buy a rust free clean Subaru Outback that is in comparable mechanical condition? I'm sure there are possibly newer models with less miles for around that price but if they are in need or about to be in need of mechanical repair then what's the true cost going to be of that car. Is 8k on a 2007 200k mile Outback a sweet spot for having an Outback that should be good for 100k miles? I appreciate any feedback, thank you.

I’m coming here because I’ve searched high and low for an instructional video on how to change a crank positioning sensor on the 01 H6. Does anyone know if Mr.Subaru touches on this in any of his videos?

Still a big risk that the engine's been run low on oil and the heads are warped or cracked. This might get into head or even short block replacement.