Yea, I really slacked off making videos last year. Right now the lakes are still thawing out so I'll try to get some more up soon.

With a light load you can get away with a 7", but you'd be hard pressed to go 7.5" or bigger. If you can get past the hump around 2k-2.5k RPM, you can usually maintain a little higher speed. But after taking a corner or off the line it tends to bog down before it gets into the powerband. 6.5 is typically my universal 212cc prop. It can handle a bit of weight and gets decent speed. I've only used 6.25 when I had the boat very heavily loaded, like 800 lbs. It didn't matter if the boat was empty or fully loaded, it had the torque to hit the governor and consistently do 9mph.

@@playinlikejimi Were you running your 212 motor stock then, Gunner? I ordered the smaller prop kit yesterday, so looking forward to getting that on and testing!

@@jameswinnett4012 that was with a stock 7hp duromax, but basically the same motor.

@@playinlikejimi cool! Yea, pretty much the same. Hoping the OG prop removal goes smooth! It's been on for a season now. :-/

@@playinlikejimi got my prop kit from Mud-Skipper and have the 6.5 on ready for a test run! Wasn't as big a deal getting the old one off as I thought. Thanks to your video! You da man, Gunner!

How did your install go? I noticed when I went to order the two blade kit. The website says: “Adapter ONLY fits 5hp to 7hp Twister Tail Assembly. Does NOT fit Twister Lite, Twister XL or Twister4.” So I was hesitant to order. Is this true?

Thanks. I know it's been a long time coming, but I have some video plans as soon as the weather clears up enough. Going to explain how I go through to choose the best prop and dial in the trim for the best performance. I was able to pick up a noticable amount of speed just by dialing it in. Hopefully in the next week I'll get some up.

Where you buy it

No problem, thanks for the appreciation.

@@playinlikejimi the mudskipper video just shows removing the prop and putting the adapter on. Why exactly should you loosen the bearing housing before the prop? Thanks man

@@philliptverberg4578 the video they have is the same concept, but it's on the newer style Longtails. With the twister, the cable shaft has some give to it and you won't be able to loosen it with the other end locked in place like their video shows. Trust me, I tried everything before coming up with this method.

I have this same long and the 3 blade sucks I put a 2 blade on it made big difference if anyone has this mud motor kit do what this guy just did big difference between the 3 blade and 2 blade the 2 blade way better

I don't think you can, I think they're all by diameter. The weedless versions have a little more surface area and slightly higher pitch, so you'll want to go an inch below you're normal prop for the weedless version.

Yes, the cavitation issues go away with the 2 blade. Otherwise with the factory prop, you'll need the plate. But it's just not a good prop for this setup. And each boat and load will be different. Props are cheap enough to get a few different sizes to test. With my modified engine, I prefer the 6 1/2" since it can rev pretty high. With a stock engine by myself, 8" is the largest I was able to reach the governed engine speed, but lacked holeshot pretty bad and struggled to get there. 7" was a good size alone and was able to get 15mph steady. With any kind of load, I went with a 6". The boat will run 9mph at the governor, doesn't matter if it was completely empty or plowing through with 800lbs, it would always go 9mph and not struggle much to get there or hold that speed.

Couple pumps every once in a while lol. Not very calculated. I do have one that is over greased and it'll push out the grease fittings after running it for a while, but nothing serious.

100% worth the swap. Get a new prop on there and check out my other video on how to adjust it for best performance.

No, personally I haven't had any issues.

You should get a new key with it, I'm pretty sure all the ones I've gotten have had them. Some lessons you learn the hard way lol, if you have a stuck key and need to start it again, a quick zip tie or piece of tape will save it.

@@playinlikejimi just keeping you updated. Got home from work this evening and my kit was waiting for me. Stupid fast delivery. I ordered Tuesday afternoon and it arrived Saturday morning. However, I got the adapter kit that's supposed to, per the website, come with a 7.5", 8", 9" two blade prop. What showed up in the package was (2) 8.5" props and (1) 9 1/4" prop. Lol. I'm not sure I'll ever have a use for the 9 1/4" prop and I would rather not have two of the 8 1/2". Oh well. I email them a little bit ago because I'm sure it was just an error by whoever grabbed them off the shelf, but hopefully they will send me the three that were supposed to come which would give me a 7.5, 8, (2)8.5, 9, and 9.25. we'll see

With the new props the cavitation plate isn't really necessary. I'd highly suggest the adapter, it makes changing props a breeze. I had the boat out and was able to swap the props in about 2 minutes as opposed to taking the whole hub assembly apart, but regardless I just used the regular tapered aluminum props. Go to my channel and I have a pretty in depth video on how I made them before this adapter was available.

I prefer the adapter because of how quick and easy it is to change props. I know they've been out of stock for a while so I can modify some props if you'd like. As far as sticking out past the skeg, I havent notice any significant differences with that.

@Gunner's Hide Any chance you know the difference between the twister xl and the 5-7 hp adapter? The xl adapter has been out of stock for a while and I'm wondering if I can modify the smaller adapter to fit my twister xl. Thanks

I don't think I've gotten any weeds caught up in it. The original prop tangles up very easily, but the 2 blade props do much better. I can't comment on super thick vegetation yet, but Lilly pads and stuff too thick for a standard outboard haven't been an issue.

So this is a hard question to answer without seeing what's going on, but the first thing I would do is make sure the bolt on top of the throttle lever on the engine is loose enough that the lever can move freely. I would also check to make sure nothing is binding and keeping the throttle cracked open. I would most likely suspect a minor issue somewhere in the linkage rather than the governor. The cable to the throttle on the handle could also be too tight causing it to not return all the way. If everything is working correctly and moving freely you should be able to back the black screw on the carb out to the point where it starts to hunt. With the engine running but no load on it, the RPMs will drop until it's about to stall and the governor will kick in and make them jump up for a second then it will sound like it's about to die again and keep repeating. If it's not doing that, I'd bet something is binding up and it's not a governor issue. Hope this helps, sorry it's kinda hard to explain.

@@playinlikejimi Thank you sir. I'll see what's going on. FYI, this adapter is a game changer. I can't believe the difference in performance. I can't believe Mudskipper is still sending them out with that other prop on it. Couldn't be happier that you figured this out and caused them to create the adapter. Thank you sir!

@@AWelter23 thanks, but I can't take all the credit. I think it was more of a parallel thinking. When I came up with the idea of adding threads to an aluminum prop, I sent them a picture I drew of an adapter I came up with (basically the one they sell now) and they were already working with a machine shop to make a similar product. But yea, I was completely blown away by the difference. Almost literally lol. Before I could drive the boat standing up with no handle bar or anything, but with the new prop I almost fell over the first time I took it out. I was so surprised that it was so much smoother idling around, but also so much faster with the top speed. Hopefully in the future they include the adapter already installed, that'd be nice to see.

I have my chart at home, I'll make a short video on how I dial in the Trim and the different speeds I was getting with a stock 7hp motor. Off the top of my head, I can remember the 6 1/4" prop got 8mph, regardless of weight. With the boat empty, and then with about 800lbs including me, fuel, motor, and weights I put in it still got 8mph and hit the governor. With the boat empty, I was able to dial it in to 15mph with I believe a 7.5" or 8" prop.

I took the boat out today with the 8" and was able to hit 20 mph with just me, tool bag, big deep cycle battery, and 8 gallons of gas. If I add more weight and wanna stay at 20 should I go to the smaller blade or bigger?

@@grizzlydean91 it depends, are you hitting the governor? If you are, try a bigger prop. Bigger props will give more speed, but put more load on the engine. You want to use the biggest one that will let you run at the desired RPM, which is the governor if you haven't removed it, but not too big that it bogs the motor down. I don't know as much about the bigger motors, but I'd guess that you would go with a bigger prop, but the 8" would be good when there's weight in the boat.

@@grizzlydean91 any updates

For the first question, the answer is absolutely go with the 2 blade prop. As to why, that's a pretty complicated question. The shape of the blades has alot to do with how it runs at the surface, and the 3 blade prop is too big for these motors. It's a 7.5" and with the 3 blades, that's way too much surface area and it causes these engines to bog down easily. The factory prop isn't very good at "surface piercing" and that's why without a cavitation plate you need to run the prop very deep, essentially defeating the purpose of the design. Even with the plate, you'll notice once you get to a certain point, the prop will suck in air, known as blowing out. And I have 2 engines I use. A predator 212 with billet flywheel, rod, stage 3 from NR-Racing, and the governor removed. That's the one I did 23mph with. My other one is a stock Duromax 7hp with the governor still in place and I can get 15mph with 8" prop and an empty boat. With a very heavy load, I'll go with 6 1/4" and it doesn't matter how much weight is in it, I'll go 8mph with a ton of torque. Hope this helps.

@@playinlikejimi yes it does and I very much appreciate the help.. I built a wooden dory that is very light it is 17ft.. I have a 420cc 13hp predator and it gets up and goes decently enough for fishing but after watching your videos I agree with you and feel it's defeating the purpose of a long tail not being able to run near or cutting the water edge also I reviewed other info on props and basically said everything about 2 runs faster than 3 and 3 faster than 4 prop. I called mud skipper and talked to Jason and told him that I don't understand why they would put a three bladed prop on a long tail and was hoping that I could get a converter for my send in video rather than another 3 bladed prop.. I still trying to understand the dynamics why 2 blades push harder when cutting the water surface though.. I know that they do but trying to understand it better.. thanks again.. Dusty

@@playinlikejimi one other thing I forgot to mention is another question regarding stage 1 kits.. installing a header, new intake and jet is there a noticeable difference or is the only big difference comes with governor removal?

@@luckylevi24 luckylevi24 one thing that completely changed my view on props was when I learned they work more like an airplane wing, not a corkscrew. The shape of the prop causes a pressure difference and this is what really produces the thrust. I think this is also why a larger prop spinning slower is more efficient than a fast moving small prop. That's why surface drives usually have a geared reduction and larger props and can move faster than a direct drive longtail with the same power. Both have their advantages though and I've had all my notes written for a long time to do a video on how the twister bridges that gap, I just haven't gotten around to making it yet. To answer your other question about the stage 1, the only comparison I have is back when I still had the factory prop. It was definitely noticable and I was able to hit the governed speed of the engine alot easier. Now that I have the adapter I can swap props in about a minute and match the prop to my engine and load weight. I have all the parts to do a stage 1 on my stock engine, so I think I'll do that but I'm leaving the governor in because it's electric start and I want to leave the stock flywheel in. Another big thing I noticed about the governor is it really helps with starting and idling, especially when trolling. Most people think it only limits the upper end, but it also helps on the bottom. Of course you can always feather the throttle and keep it in that sweet spot, but when you let off the gas and the RPMs drop, once the engine hits a certain point the governor will open the throttle to keep it from dying. Same thing when trolling and the motor starts to bog down at idle, the governor will bring the RPMs back to the desired idle. That's why if you mess with the linkage while the motor is off, you'll notice the throttle should be about 1/4 open on the carb side, even if the linkage is closed all the way. Since the engine is off, the governor is basically sensing the RPMs are too low and trying to bring them up and that's why it helps with start up. These are all my own personal observations, I couldn't find much info online about it and was trying to figure out why my motor kept stalling after I removed the governor when it was completely fine stock and the carb was tuned to idle just fine with the prop out of the water. But as soon as I dipped it down, it'd stall unless I feathered the throttle. Just something to think about and I could be completely wrong my carb could just need some work. But take a look at the linkage with governor in place and quickly drop the prop in the water and see if you can see what I mean. But the other aspect is the upper end. You definitely will get higher speeds with it removed with the sacrifice of some easy driving on the bottom end. Especially if you do a cam and valve springs and start to move the powerband higher up. Sorry for the long winded responses.

@@playinlikejimi you have really helped me out a lot with the information. Wish you lived in sc I could show you my dory I made. Also I hope when I send the video to mud skipper for free prop that Jason gives me an adapter instead bcuz I agree with you that the prop that comes with the twister defeats the purpose of what it is made for. Thanks again. Dusty

Originally I was very let down. I was about to get rid of it until I figured out how to get the factory prop off and made my own. Now that they make these adapters, I would highly suggest this over a longtail just because of how much easier it is to control, and you don't really lose any noticeable power through the cable vs a straight shaft. I'm very happy with it, it's a nice blend between a longtail and surface drive.

I don't know the exact pitch, but I'm pretty sure they're the same. I know the Beaver dam props are all 5" pitch until you get to 9" diameter, then it's a 6" pitch.

Did it add more speed to your boat? Do you have to run the cavitation plate? And how far is the prop in the water when you hit your best speed? Thanks

@@jerredmartin8985 it added alot more speed. And no, I don't use the cavitation plate. I haven't experimented with it on yet, but it runs just fine without it. I have done alot of trim setting tests. I'll make a video on that one day but right now my boat is in storage for the winter. But my best settings right now for a stock engine and empty boat are 7" weedless or 8" standard prop with the center of the prop 3" above the bottom of the boat. It will maintain about 15mph. That's about as high as you can lift the prop and comfortably drive it, any higher and the torque from the prop tries to pull the motor sideways. With the boat loaded down I use a 6 1/4" or 6 1/2" about even with the bottom of the boat. Prop depth and weight don't matter with those props, it will stay at 9mph whether the boat is empty or has 800lbs.

It's been quite a while since I've taken it apart, but if I remember correctly, once you get to the point around 6:30, you should be able pull it out pretty easily from the prop side of that lower hub.

Awesome thanks

So just push it out with something

Mud-Skipper.com

@@playinlikejimi I have the same kit you do with the stage 2 NR Racing kit and open water it does great but any kind of weeds try to jam up the prop and having to lift it out of the water causes loss of forward momentum. I was just about to do the same thing as you did and convert one of my old two blade off my surface drive seeing that it does extremely well in any kind of weeds. Thanks for the info and I'll get the kit coming.

@@donaldcoxe946 the new props are a huge game changer. I was about to get rid of it because of the same issues. Very slow with any kind of weight so I did a stage 3 thinking that would help, but hardly any difference. And weeds or grass would jam up hard, but now I it does very well. I'll try to get some videos of weeds to later in the year when the vegetation gets thick.

I plan to get out this weekend and do some tests with different props on a stock motor. Once I find the best combination of prop and trim level, I'll put the plate on and see if it makes a difference.

@@playinlikejimi mine the flex shaft broke I'm replacing it Friday. If I put the cavitation plate on and a stage 2 motor kit u think it will push my 15ft pretty good?

@@alexmont221 so far with the 2 blade props I haven't needed the cavitation plate, but it's pretty much required for the stock 3 blade. And it all depends on what kind of water you're in and the weight of the boat. I'll be testing the stock motor with the boat empty with just me in it and then with it fully loaded down. I'll do the same with the stage 3 predator later on so you can get an idea of what to expect.

@@playinlikejimi ok looking forward to seeing that video how many times do u grease ur twister? So what your saying is get the 2 blade conversion kit if I put a stage 2 kit on to get the best performance

@@alexmont221 I would put the 2 blade adapter on first thing and see how it does, you'll probably be very surprised. Then upgrade the motor if you still want a little more power, but see the difference in props first

When I removed the governor, I added a billet flywheel and connecting rod to help mitigate any issues that may come up. If you're leaving the engine close to stock or just a stage 1, I would leave the governor in. It helps alot with starting and preventing it from stalling. People seem to think it only limits the upper end, but it also helps at lower RPMs by opening up the throttle a little bit on start up and when idling to keep it from stalling. I'd only take it out if you run with light loads and want to get the most speed and mostly run open throttle the whole time. Otherwise if you do any kind of trolling or lowspeed manuevering, I'd leave it in.

@@playinlikejimi thanku for the very informative information you've helped me out a lot. I am just gonna leave it in and try the stage one kit