I like watching these videos on how things are done today. As an old man who climbed decades ago you would not believe how things were done back in the day. I never used any device belaying my second.We used a figure eight device for belaying a lead climber and that was about it. I learned to repel and catch a lead climber without using any belay device, just the friction from my waist. Yes is was painful and my waist would get rope burned. This all said I never dropped anyone and I climbed all over the country. The new gear looks nice. I never even thought of belaying two people at one time. I guess on big walls that would come in handy. Thanks for sharing. My nephew who does a lot of indoor climbing keeps trying to get me back into climbing but that ship has sailed. Thanks

Great info. Thank you

You guys just blew my mind with the air clove... Wont do that again!

Nice one. Looking forward to more of these.

Hate the fact that the climber 2 is bagged up, what happened ?

Thanks.Greeting From Poland

Good information. Love this channel

Good video. There are always things to think about, and unintended consequences await if things are taken too casually, or if techniques are attempted without solid understanding. And sometimes the gear configuration details are really subtle! When buying new gear, don't just toss away the instructions on the hang-tag! Petzl (in particular) does an excellent job of visually explaining the do's and don't of there gear, and a few minutes of familiarization can save lives. Above and beyond that, don't experiment on your friends: get good instruction before attempting to use new things.

Great vid. Personally we often use a personal sling anchor rather than that clove hitch tie in.

Tying the clove on the brake strand, instead of the follower's end, eliminates issue #1.

Silly question: why can't the climber tie themselves in? This way the belayer can keep their focus on the brake side of the rope and let the climber worry about the clove hitch.

Good video. Didn't waffle on and the visuals combined with graphics highlighted the issues well. Needless to say 'guide mode' has a lot of downsides.

Really good information. But I feel that the visuals and explantations were kinda rushed through. I'd love to see a deeper dive.

I really appreciate the points made in the video and will ensure to use this knowledge in my climbing. I would like to know more about the three incidents which were referenced towards the beginning of the video :)

Great info. With the traverse scenario, I'm really interested in how/why the failure happens on one rope but not two? Is it that the anchored climbers rope pulls the reverso onto an angle that doesn’t have the loaded rope pushing down on the brake strand?

Why not clip the follower with a simple sling + carabiners (or whatever else is at hand) into the anchor first, and then tie the clove hitch?

so basically a video that makes me wanna buy a personal anchor system

In general, when you switch task you should always tie a cat knot.

Great :)

What would be the recommended method to avoid the issue with the traverse? If the climber were to use a PAS or sling to tie into the anchor, would that avoid the other climber on the traverse being exposed to this risk?

I completely disagree with SIET's case 1. It doesn't matter if your tying a 'one handed clove' or an 'air clove' or any other knot. The real problem is when, whatever knot is used is unfinished, and at moment the second climber falls and another carabiner or any foreign body interrupts the autoblocking geometry of the belay device/rope system. One must avoid cluttering around the belay device to prevent these kinds of failures. I think teaching people to make an 'air clove' is more likely to result in people taking their hand off the break to tie the 'air clove' with both hands, which is obviously more dangerous. The climber could tie their own clove, too. As the climber I always tie my own clove and I prefer the one handed method. In addition, in case 2 it is again the interruption of the blocking geometry of the belay device/rope that causes the blue rope to slide though. But SIET gives no advice on how to protect against this... How about "before one unclips the red rope tie a catastrophe knot in the blue rope's break line"? Or use a regular ATC off one's harness not the anchor when traversing in parties larger than two, so that this problem matters less?

Good advisements

Isnt the solution to let your climber do his thing, tie his knot, i prefer the petzl adjust

Wondering if anyone uses the following method in the first scenario? I generally would not tie off my second when they lead on... we swap belay devices, i.e. I grab their atc (while they grab my remaining rack), put them on belay on the brake hand side, thread a runner placed (generally) in the top of the anchor (to eliminate the factor 2 fall), then second unties the atc I used to belay them up with, and away they go. NB to thread the runner after they are on belay (else atc they are on is useless), but before they untie their atc (else you risk them falling directly onto your atc). During this process I always keep my hand on the brake side (or may tie a quick stopper knot, e.g. during breaks or on akward stances).

For issue #1, couldn’t the follower just bring a sling (or PAS of they are feeling fancy), and go indirect when they get to the belayer?

For what the clove hitch in the first example? Just do any kind of knot into the break rope close to the atc and everything is fine and done easily and safe...

Did the belayer hold both ropes going out from the belay device in case #2? It is not clear from the video. If he/she didn't do that than this is the wrong usage of the device and such a "fall" of the third climber can happen even without the traverse scenario. But if he/she did hold both ropes than this a more serious concern although I would imagine that there should be enough friction to hold the third one when he falls.

Wait what???

For the first scenario, isn't it faster and safer to just tie a knot on the brake strand?

Why not tie off the break strand and clip it to the anchor?

Well internet say what you will, but that one handed clove example was marginal at best. There are two (2) ways I can think of to easily do this safely and they're both on youtube. This is a quality video otherwise and did help me.

Brake, not break. Good demos of what could go wrong when the belayer takes their hand off the brake without first backing it up. Better to call this a brake assist mode that still requires a brake hand or a backup. No sense calling it auto braking, locking or blocking. It’s not auto anything.

Once we're both at the anchor how do we safely set up a belay for the next pitch?

The real problem is that you let go of the rope😅

That just seems like a fundamental flaw in the design and you shouldn't be using it for two climbers at the same time period.

i dont get why people like to use these "magic plates". just hook a locker to one of the anchor points and redirect the load rope through it and you are all set, then belay as you would when toproping.

Being belayed off the anchor blows.