Gotta love how the cut every time there's a hard part

Thanks for not abandoning us early S197 owners!

I just did mine... took me about 3.5 hours to do both on the ground in driveway. I was solo. To get bolts out without moving steering rack, swing entire shock and spindle assembly forward. I also squeezed back the steering boot. Took only a few minutes to wiggle bolts out after I did so. I took nothing else (other than mentioned in video) apart. I should add that a helper to realign ball joint into spindle makes the job a lot easier.

This is a good video with good advice, but it's only going to take you three hours if you have a lift, good lighting, and car that is entirely free of corrosion. It took me about 3 1/2 hours to remove one control arm. [Part of it was that I had to move the steering rack.] Installation was pretty quick. The second one went a lot faster. One of the things that takes a long time is the flag bolts at the rear of the arm. The Ford shop manual says you can invert the bolts so the nuts are on the bottom. That makes it possible to use a socket, and it dramatically speeds installation.

The video is 7 minutes but this took me 7 hours 💀 I’ll leave this to the pros next time

is amazing how a lift like that make your job so much easier ! I am here destroying my back under the car lol

Thanks Bill. GREAT video. Very helpful. And the 2 wrench trick - where has that been all my life??? To avoid removing the rack, I took the clamp off the boot on the tie rod and compressed the boot (I wedged a 6" piece of 2x4 between the boot and the frame to hold it). Then I loosened the nut on the tie rod (at the wheel) and let it drop down about 1/2 inch (do not remove the nut completely, just thread it up the shaft about 1/2 inch). Find a KZfaq video on how to remove a tire rod. Thanks again.

i love how they skip the hard important part of getting the front bolt .

A TECH TIP FOR ALL AS I JUST DID THS - 1) YOU DO NOT have to loosen the rack for the long bolt 2) Have a helper and it goes very smooth 1) Remove the control arm to spindle bolt first but don't try to pop the arm out of the spindle yet 2) Loosen almost all the way the two rear bolts (yes, you have to use the two wrench trick for now, no way around it but it works) 3) Loosen the large bolt but don't try to remove yet 4) NOW pull the control arm to spindle (ball joint) out now that you have some play to move the control arm 5) Remove the spring clip holding the rubber tie rod boot (slide it down ) and CLIP the one time boot clamp near the inner tie rod and slide the boot down out of the way - THIS IS GOING TO HELP YOU GET THE LONG CONTROL ARM BOLT OUT 6) Two people - One person pushes the whole spindle assemble AWAY from the bolt (Grab the caliper for grip and PUSH ). The other person wiggles the long bolt out while you hold the assemble away 0 Note, the bolt WILL slide out under ball of the inner tire rod 7) now you can remove the two remaining back bolts all the way and remove the control armTo reassemble - Follow in reverse order EXCEPT THIS KEY NOTE When you are putting the long bolt back in make sure you don't insert the ball joint end in until you have TORQUED the bolt (again you are going to PUSH the assemble away to get a torque wrench in The two back bolts are a pain in the original orientation BUT Ford says flip upside down with the NUTS on tope and bolts underneath. This is great because it now allows you to get a torque wrench on them for proper toque. Its easy if as I say, you have a helper and don't be afraid to do this upgrade.

Super Informative thank you! You just convinced me to save 400-600 in labor.

Bill, Thanks for the reply. Your help is greatly appreciated! 👍🏻

Best video on changing these control arms out... I pulled the rack, good to know you may not have to do that. Thanks !!!

For those wondering about having to move the steering rack or not - if you remove the top not for the tie rod ends then turn the wheel to full lock it should give you enough room to remove the bolt or another way is if you're doing inner tie rods when you have them removed and then turn the steering wheel to full lock there will be plenty of room to get those bolts out on both sides

just did a 2010, so far one of the easiest cars I worked on. Way easer to remove the TRE to get enough room to remove the front bolt.

I noticed that you didn’t Torque anything, is some blue loctite and a heavy hand close enough for govt work?

Anybody else notice him using the ball joint fork at 2:09 even though he never mentioned it or lists it in the required tools?

I just did mine the same way he did without taking the steering rack off and it was hard as hell to get that through

Needs more music, I can still hear the verbal instructions.

The best tutorial video and also a lot tips. I learned a lot from this tutorial. now im able to repair my own car and also to share my videos with all you.

Thanks for the video install. Was a little tricky at first but easy.. from Puert Rico. Thanks...

Great job, guys as always guys. A big brake upgrade demo would be great on ecoboost, hoping that's on your plans to shoot.

Thank you. May God in Christ bless and keep you.

I just did mine right now,.Took me since 1:30 to 6:30 🤔.... But then again, I replaced the whole front end.

Thank you for the very clear easy to understand instructions as I'm doing mine tomorrow, how necessary is it for an alignment ?

And just like thst. I'm rolling

Just did my 2010 Mustang V6. You have to take off the outer tie rod bolt and unscrew the inner tie rod with a wrench to get access to the front bolt. It's too long to remove it with the steering to the right or left method or keeping the wheel unlocked

is this the same procedure for 2011-2014 mustang?

Can ANYONE answer about getting that back bolt off without removing the rack ? Bill did it okay yet ; so many said they had to unbolt the rack ...so ? Can it be done without unbolting the rack?

Is the 2011-2014 install very similar?

Are there torque specs for the bolts when you reinstall them ?

I don’t think the music is loud enough.

Thanks.. for good procedures. Very helpful

The bolt isn't hard just turn wheel opposite of side being worked on

Do you have to grease the ball joints before installing the control arms? I don't see a grease fitting anywhere.

On that outer tie rod end … is that cover supposed to be on it??

If you turn the steering wheel to the opposite side it's easier to get front bolt

What happened to tighten on curb height?

من در ایران زندگی میکنم و برای نگهداری و تعمیرات موستانگ مدل ۲۰۱۳ مشکلات زیادی دارم ولی با ویدیوهای شما تتها تونستم موفق به نگهداری ماشینم باشم. اذت ممنونم مرد

Is there a "preload" required during reassembly? I've viewed a few lower control arm procedures and some say it's mandatory and others don't mention it. Help?

I had to remove the inner tie rod from the rack and pinion to get that bolt out. Now my steering wheel isnt straight. I dont know how, I didnt change anything, just unscrewed it and screwed it back in until it stopped.

Amazing that these upgrades do not have grease fittings. even the premium ones will dry out and wear out. I will be putting Detroit Axle greaseable ball joints in but will be removing the arms to do the pressing. much easier than fumbling around with the strut, brake caliper and bracket. need to be bead blasted and refinish anyway. I know all the old wives' tales about them not being replaceable.

Im actually about to replace my control arm as well because when I turn the steering wheel my ball joint pops out of its socket

Nice work great video 👍🏿

Hey man your videos are alot of help but I’m working on the end which has the tire rod. and every time I push down on it the control arm goes with it and it takes at least 300 pounds just to move it one notch what could be going on here

Awesome video!!!!!

I see a lot of people say they cant quite get that last bolt free...what if you moved the boot down toward the tie rod ?

Getting the 2 bolts is hard asf one of then is next to the oil pan

I have an 08 GT, I have the suspension clunk in the front when going over bumps. I've replaced both struts with complete strut kit, sway bar links, and sway bar bushings. And the clunk is the same and just as loud. I've been told told that if I replace both lower control arms, this would take care of the clunk. Any help would be great. Thanks..

I like your work. Should be wearing safety glasses though

Hey guys Tha KS so much for adding this video, I just changed the control arms myself, about 3 hr and some knee caps later, it's done, question, after putting the car on the ground and driving it a bit do I need to raise it back up and re tighten all bolts? I put the main bolt at 130 lbs ft torque as I read somewhere else. But the big 21 mm bolts and the bolt behind the brake I tighten as much as I could on the location. They are. Any advice on those? Thanks again for the know how sharing.

does this require wheel alignment afterward?

So no torque bar?

What is a reverse-L front lower control arm? It's what my 2008 Bullitt has, and I can't seem to find any info or further description of it.

BILL !! :-) So how do you get those back bolts to torque spec using an open end wrench or do you just muscle them on and call it good? Serious question...thanks

What is the size of the bolt that goes through the bushing? I had to cut it out. And where can I get one?

Are they lowers front of the car?

I had these installed on my '06 GT 2yrs ago and ever since I get a "popping/clunk" sound from the passenger side when the suspension gets compressed. It usually happens when making left turns . I took it back and had the LCA replaced again, but its still there. I have also replaced the strut mounts with the GT500 upgrades when I replaced the struts last yr. I have also replaced the sway bar and end links, and the inner & outer tie rod ends; basically the entire front suspension. Still have the issue. I have read on several forums of similar issue and a Ford TSB. Has anyone else experienced this issue?

Do you need a alignment after?

These control arms are literally the same ones used on the v6 and gt. I used to make them.

I find it a little weird when I clicked on a totally different video description and keep going back to this? Well maybe not totally because it was a lower control arm but not on a Ford strange🤔

anyone else do it his way and get past the boot ? Or did you have to pull the rack? If so what year ?

i already installed Steeda Bumpsteer Kit , are these front arms compatible with it ? before i spend some money on them

I replace one of them and the tie rods I wanted to get a alinement but I wanted to buy the other control arm would it make a difference

How different is the install on a 2012 gt, Please help I want to do mine cause I'm getting a horrible noise

Tie rod is bent

My mustang gt is squeaking I don’t is it cause of Rack opinion

Is this fit to ford mustang 2011 v6?

Torque specs?

Gotta say, I hate the background music on this video.

I can get that bolt out by the inner tie rod, any suggestions?

how much i need lower c arms

My mechanic quoted me $140 per side..

I was under the impression ford uses torque to yield hardware for their suspension hardware looks like the old stuff was reused Shouldn’t an instructional video at least make a note to install new critical fasteners ?

No torque specs just tighten the piss out of it. Lol. Awesome

does this require wheel alignment afterward?