kzfaq.info/love/TT9mT4UQanMH-rGm_ZUB3w Brians channel

I had a fun day meeting Brian and spending time with you guys, thank you Dizzy, cheers.

Back in 1980 I worked for a major aftermarket German parts distributor, and we had every air cooled VW head imaginable. Lots of rebuilt and new. Some were great, some were crap. A full piston and cylinder set was about $50 !!!!

I always find myself sitting on the edge of my chair like a kid. Thank you

Mustie, If ya still read comments on old videos. I made a sanding disk in shop class for a drill chuck to lightly sand the heads back in 1970’s. A few minutes and all heads would be done. No lapping needed and I knew I was done when it had fresh metal all the way around. It was out of plexiglass and had a screw that I can hold a piece of 300 grit wet paper and used light oil to keep from clogging.

My dad had an Austin dealership. He taught me how to lap valves. We used coarse - - medium - - and finished with very fine compound. That was 60 years ago.If I had to do it today I would still use the three step compound if it is still available. I'm really enjoying your show. Thanks...

Genius problem solving here! Really enjoying the in depth look at these engines. Never too much of a vw fan, but I really like these engines. Its the bodies that really never struck me as interesting. Well, except for the Kharmann Gia, without the front bumper.

We always lapped the matching jugs to each head until we got a nice gray uniform ring all the way around. We also kept the pushrods in the same position so they don't have to reseat, which knocks the valve adjustment out quickly. Was an interesting walk down memory lane, and the 356 and 914 Porsches are the same. We put a 356 motor in a beetle once. I guess I'm very glad not to have to work on those things any more.

What impresses me most about this video is how kind it was of you to offer your time and expertise to your friend/or family member to help with his engine. You are a good friend. And that Volkswagen sounded beautiful driving down the road after you guys worked on it very impressive!

Next time find a piece of glass and glue a sheet of sand paper on it use it to make the flat surface on the barrels, I used to do it all the time it's like having a flat mill. I love your Chanel it reminds me of things I used to do before I got to old to be bending over to work.

thank you for a great step by step video. I have learned Alot from you. been involved with vws for over 20 years and still see tricks and new ideas. thank you again

Watching here mindoro occidental province.. Philippines...

Nice job drilling out the sheared-off bolt. As a suggestion, while you are “over” the newly drill-out hole, put a center in the Bridgeport and use it to center the tap. Helps to keep threads perpendicular to the surface. It also dramatically reduces the chance of snapping the tap off in the head. Also, use cutting oil of some sort when drilling and tapping. Kerosene actually works fairly well in aluminum, although almost any oil will do. Nice job!

Can't you move next door to me ? I live in SC the low tomorrow is 58 high 68 , hardly ever snows !! Brian is a Lucky guy to have you helping him. Thanks Mustie1 enjoy as always .

Really enjoy watching what you do.especially with petrol mowers.have learned a lot seeing it done.ta.

I'm 65. Overhauled my first 49' at 14. I've seen it all and done most of it. I went to balance, Polish and blueprint at 16. Owned dozens of Bugs and dream about em. Besides Wife, Kids and G'kids they are my love.

Hi Mustie. When I was in the Airforce, for things like broken taps, we used to have a disintigrator. This electrically broke down high carbon objects like taps.

That lapping and cutting compound idea is brilliant. Now that the 1990s influx of easy and cheap air cooled parts is gone, it's back to creative engineering. I don't know how I ever went through life without a Bug. It was always on my list and outside of my friend's WRX powered Beetle, I've never been invested in any others. I got caught up in the turbo 3.8 GM motors that have almost limitless potential.

I could watch these VDub vids all day. Thanks for taking the time to make them...I learn a tremendous amount from watching them!

Great repair skills, I really enjoyed watching both videos. My old Velocette motorcycle had the head spigoted onto the cylinder in the same way but also used a soft copper ring to ensure a perfect seal.

Whenever I repair damaged aluminium threads, I use Helicoil thread inserts. Much more secure than threading straight into aluminium (UK spelling).

UK something to consider is a spark erode to remove broken off taps it burns out the center, allowing the breaking off the remaining part. (Total understand you have repaired it by now only just found you and love to watch each and every film)

To be technical about it, VW did not install fuel filters in the hose between the fuel pump and carburetor. The fuel filter on the original (rebuildable) Pierburg fuel pump, which that engine no longer has, is located under a bolt on the pump. The fuel pump that is on it a generic crimped-top version which goes in the garbage when it fails. What happens when the owner installs a filter between the pump and carb where one wasn't intended to be is that the added weight pulls either the hose off the carb because of no clamp, or the metal fuel line itself out of the carb body since it is a press fit, not threaded. Then gas lands on the distributor conveniently located under the filter and ignites. The 36hp design was much safer, with a metal fuel line threaded on both ends.Good job on the engine!

Mustie if I may give you an advice on the hole repair. The mill turn a little to high rpm turn it down to avoid vibrations. Second when you drilled the first hole your tool is in the centre so put in a spring-loaded center point into the tool holder then your accurate wile taping. Also for the second hole then your dead strait. But you bailed it by hand. Nice video

Just found your channel a couple days ago and have been marathoning them ! You inspire me . Also I love the pace of your vids my wife says they have a Bob Ross quality and I agree. Cheers !

JMMJ says it all.Your 'thinking out loud 'as you work shows you have the best tool in the shop-------P-T-I-E-N-C-E.

Too late but you can use any High temp paint between the cylinder and cylinder head to avoid blow-by, after you do the hand-matching with valve grind compound. The paint seals all the imperfections and lasts forever. Great job anyway. Keep it up!.

Very good informative in depth detail of cylinder heads, cleaned up and put back together, thanks mustie1

Mustie1: as far as fuel-line goes..I use that new blue see-thru "aircraft" fuel-hose...it's immune to most alcohols and butane additives..that ar in some new gasolines today...besides fuel is easier to see thru the hose..along with that I am using a fuel/water filter separator that helps with removing water from the gas..just like an outboard motor has on them.. ethanol absorbs moisture out of the air and collects it to the bottom of the gas tank.. the moisture gets in by the fuel cap everytime there's a vacuum on the tank..at the bottom of the fuel-filter is a little peacock to the turn to let the excess of water out of the filter..on to the ground..something to think about for all vehicles that have carburators..good luck..keep those educational videos coming I really enjoy them...bye for now..(critter) R.G.B.

Another knowledgeable video ,enjoyed watching you repair the exhaust studs, great video keep them coming....

u know what u r doing always interesting to watch you fix a motor

You could have left the table in place under the spindle, dropped the knee down, inserted the tap into a properly sized collet, then brought the quill down to start the tap straight and finish with the tap wrench and/or a bottoming tap. Old machinists trick I learned a long time ago. Great video BTW!!

When I was younger in the 60's there was a guy that collected VW's He had about 10 acres of land and had a few hundred bugs and vans. Then he ran out of space and started stacking them on top of each other. My guess was about 3 thousand all in all. He was a pilot and mechanic. The local paper wrote an article about that. He said one day the price of gas is going to get over a dollar a gallon and I will make good money on these little gems....... In the late 80's he passed away and I have no idea who was in control of the property but it was gone within 6 months... You can research that at the Abbeville Meridional news paper archives........ It was a treasure trove worth Millions now a days..........

Hi Dude. Love what your do'in. Love watching. I have to honor the memory of Heinz Klempke my VW factory rep when I worked at Ben Fresch Volkswagen in 1982. He would have smacked my knuckles with a combination wrench and swore at me in German if I torqued a head down with anything other than a beam type torque wrench. Thanks for the videos. Brings back lots of memories.

awesome how to vid once again mustie. More of these old vw's need to get put back on the road. 👍👍👍👍

The manual hone is something I haven't heard or seen before. You da Man!

A recommended tip: After drilling a hole to be tapped, use a countersink prior to inserting the tap.

Thanks, i've spent some nice time watching your job :)

In 1990 I took my trusty 67 beetle, Zepher, from Santa Cruz to Cabo San Lucas trouble free. Selling her was so dumb.

I had fun doing this w/ my first car , a zenith blue, 1967 VW bug, 1400 cc . 1978, Mother Nature smashed it thru the garage door , and baggies of parts all over the neighborhood. Still miss that girl. Oh well.

I will say it again...Really quite an amazing design, Mustie, this instructional is very good and fun to watch. Wish I had kept my 66 VW and did a motor tear down , after seeing this....But that was 37 years ago....LOL ...VW are not a Alberta car for all seasons...I am always amazed by your skills and creativity.. High 5 Dude Cheers Alberta Dave

Mustie and his Volkswagen . A lot of respect for his passion.

I enjoy your blog more now that you are working on VWs. It sure is pretty there in the summer. Keep up the blog as i actually learned a few things lately.

looks pretty good nice save on the heads I use to weld bad spots yes even on blown exhaust ports an use old jugs to lap the heads you got it down mustie I use use copper for fuel line I put a rubber grommet on back tin because steel loves to eat copper when it vibrates nasty fire thing ,I see ya stayed with vacuum advance distributer sign of a true VW man!!! can't wait to see it run!! : )

Great little 'Hack' Mustie. You remind me of my Dad when I was quite bit younger....

To remove a broken stud/drill/tap in aluminium use a mig welder to build it up until you have enough to weld a nut on. The weld doesn't touch the ally, the heat loosens the stud, should unscrew easily.

I have mixed feelings about the air-cooled VW engine's on one hand I like the simplicity on the other even when done right it has issues, you take the time to do it right and that's great but it still has to be operated properly with it's shortcomings in mind and of coarse cared for. Great video thanks

Enjoyed the vid ,as usual. Thanks again for all the effort it takes , Id enjoy working with you in the shop any time , Im thinking of raceing again , used to race NASCAR, OWNER , BUILDER , but thinking of antique class now , just fun . see ya , George .

Awesome video... love the old VW motor (no head gaskets no oil filter and not water cooled)

I'm no expert by any stretch but that was a nice save getting new good studs in the heads !! Well done mate !!

Hey mate you can get whats called an "Easy Out" basically a reverse tap those busted bits come out easily, great vid!

What a Great Improvement when Hydraulic Lifters started to be used in Modern car engines...

i like the way that you go about this . even , slow enough for those still learning .inspirational even , its funny , young mechanics are all boss , then you give them a bug to fix !! hilarity ensues !!

Lapping the cylinders to the heads is okay, but the other thing to consider, is that the two cylinders needs to be the same length as each other. Plus, the heads cylinder recesses also need to share the same level as each other. Your welcome, greets from the UK....Great clips BTW.

Nice job, I see you all spent lots of time lapping the jugs to heads. A possibly easier way. Years ago I made a sanding block out of three/fourths inch plywood and rounded it precisely to the size of the outer rim of a jug. I installed a mandrel dead center. Then a power drill w/ some 150 grit wet paper and oil. I know it was dead center b/c I didn’t “finial size” it until mandrel was installed. It cleaned up many heads nicely. I recall you considered resurfacing via that mill. chuck

All my mechanical work is on motorcycles .. mainly loving these videos keep them coming

I've got a '66 VW with the same motor in it, never had it apart myself.. Great channel man, should have subscribed a long time ago!

The Porsche 356 engine blocks had head studs which were "thru-bolted" What this was is that they ran the studs thru the case and capped it with a nut inside the engine. I don't remember if it had a washer, I think it did. Then they welded the nut to the stud in the case. If you build up a vw engine with too much power you can literally blow the studs out of the case. I did, back in 75. So if you want a powerful, engine find a machine shop to make you some studs. After driving beetles as my daily ride for 30 years It finally hit me , they were, and always will be, junk, I wouldn't waste any time fixing one or riding in one ever again. Just sayin' Mike

Nice job replacing those exhaust studs. Musti got skillz.

I'm sure this is already in the comments. Also, in this case it was too late, but left hand drill bits are a great addition to your broken screw arsenal. I didn't even know they existed until recently. The screw backs out while you are drilling in many cases.

In Australia we call VWs "Dack-Dacks" which alludes to the oft loud clatter from the valve gear. When I had my type 2 transporter I had the clutch flywheel machined and balanced which cured a clutch judder. I also hooked up a rubber tube to one end of the clutch cable run tube and pumped copious amounts of cheap degreaser through it. The shit that came out was amazing but the vehicle drove sweeter than ever afterwards.

Nice one guys two great vids on this repair. atb

When you have a broken tap or drill that won't come out, lay a nut over the broken stud and weld down through the center of the nut onto the stud and drill bit- the heat will loosen things up and you can carefully unscrew it.

It's great that the Bridgeport helped save the day.

That was some great ideas for the repairs

Maybe time wasn't on your side, but you should've had the engine there one more week and just bought some $20 copper head gaskets and have zero leak(s). Good stuff as always DOC

Very nice partly rebuild of boxer engine.

Great videos, keep them coming.

When it comes to drilling out a broken anything, I usually find that left-handed drill bits are my friend. Sometimes they will catch the broken piece on the flutes and twist it back out. And if that doesn't work...well, it's a drill, so I still get the hole I was originally aiming to work with. :-)

Great job, Mustie.

THANK YOU...for sharing.

one of the few automotive engines you can overhaul in a few hours and set aside for use in a verity of models

A 6mm carbide end mill will make sort work of the drill bit/tap. Once all the rubbish is cleaned out of the holes you can either plug the holes with weld (Vw aircooled heads are not magnesium alloy). Re drill the holes to 6.7mm and use a metric tap M8x1.25mm to reform the thread. Pop in a couple of studs and away you go.

my very first car back in 1986 was a 67 bug with a stock dual port heads. well being a 17 year old boy it wasnt fast enough. lol so i built a 1915 with 94mm jugs with dual 40 webers. still not good enough. so saved more money to stock it out to have a 2276 with ported dual port heads, cam and dual 44 webers ths time.. and i mean real webers. by now imiving in Missouri its 1990 and knowone knows about VWs really in Missouri. all they know i have a lil slow 4 cylinder stock motor. will with my 2276 and 3rd and 4th gear shortened ,alot of young men and older men got their feelings hurt they wouldnt even come to the next light after i smocked their uknow whats to talk to me.. lmfao. my piont of the story is i love my VWs and good luck on ur lil project ur doing.. nic vid

Success! Good job guys.

Glad to see the Bridgeport at work

This makes me appreciate corvair copper head gaskets.

keep on trucking learning...from the master

I found it surprising that VW didn't use soft, flat aluminum sealing rings to seal the cylinders to the heads like Deutz does with their diesels. I would have thought they would have anticipated the heads developing uneven spots and would have used them to take up the slack.

Excellent work.

I would have junked those head and gotten some new or rebuilt ones. I would have also torn down the engine completely and replaced a lot more parts. It looked like an old tired motor. At the same time you can convert the oil cooler system to the offset oil cooler used on the dual-port motors, the engine likes that conversion very much.

looking good now, as regards the valve grinding paste not being wet enough, i have found a few drops of kerosene helps the paste cut a lot faster .

It might be a bit late but a carbide end mill at max speed and barley any feed will get taps out, make sure the setup is ridged. I a pinch a concrete drill bit works to.

I'm enjoying this!

Good job, Mustie.

Brian would be a good D.J. he's a hell of a scratcher

Awwww, what, no start? Leaves us hanging. Oh well, as long as he's happy (who cares about us... tear tear sniffle sniffle). Nice work I'm sure he will be happy for another 100k.

What you need is some Dikeum its in a can with a brush and its used for porting and polishing and shows what is left after milling or grinding . but your magic marker works pretty good to.

Amazing little engines. They are essentially a 1930s small aircraft engine which was one of their original intended uses. Nice work, man.

I wish we had so many vws in my area you rarely see them anymore

I would have been tempted to have those heads machined and have a couple of thou skimmed off,makes the seating so much better and raises the compression slightly.

Well of course you have a Bridgeport. Lucky devil. Nice work.

That's a neat ring squeezer.

They make a bit for mills called a tap cutter . it's a carbide spade bit for cutting broken taps out .

You do know, of course why a VW beetle has those two pipes that stick out at the rear, ……….so you can push like a wheel barrow when it breaks down.:-) BTW nice job

Modify a nut to sit over the broken stud or Ez out and then take a wire feed welder and weld the inside of the nut to what ever is inside be it a bolt or ez out. Let cool for a min or two and while still some what hot, put a socket on the nut and unscrew what ever is inside.

The small intake ports were for the 1200 heads. You have 1500 heads on a 1967 type 1. 1966 was an oddball 1300cc engine that only continued in Europe and South America.

You should use oil for cutting threads ...and so much work but at last no overhauling of the heads??

very smart work

I've used canned compressed air (can held upside down) to freeze a broken tap, then used a punch to shatter it.